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Since Bryan has shut down the Basius 2 Kickstarter thread and asked that we continue any discussion with how to use these Stamp Pads in the Craft Section. I've opted to go ahead and open this thread. 

 

This is a group/open thread for us to learn how to use our pads and obtain best practices with all the different kinds of basing materials that are available to us. Please feel free to share how you did something (with pictures) and what material(s) you used.

 

Keep off-topic chatter to a minimum so that the thread doesn't get out of control.

 

Most of all... Have fun!

 

First off, the pads that were in the Basius 2 Kickstarter

 

Pad 01 - Imperial

 

 

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45f47f076fe8d7629d5769b16c182219_origina

 

 

 

Pad 02 - Mountain

 

 

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Pad 03 - Sanctuary

 

 

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Pad 04 - Kings of War

 

 

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Pad 05 - Hex

 

 

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Pad 06 - Plaguelands

 

 

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Pad 07 - Elven

 

 

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Pad 08 - Warpath

 

 

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Pad 09 - Dungeon

 

 

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Pad 10 - Battle Zones

 

 

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Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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Pad 11 - Forest

 

 

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Pad 12 - Dwarven

 

 

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Pad 13 - Victoriana

 

 

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Pad 14 - Urban

 

 

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2cb02b00f4b48c4c217185c4cb06da36_origina

 

 

 

Pad 15 - Homestead

 

 

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Pad 16 - Steampunk

 

 

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Pad 17 - Norse

 

 

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Pad 18 - Warmaidens

 

 

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Pad 19 - Industrial 

 

 

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Jeez, I wish I had known about this KS!

 

All you other participants will need to wait for fullfillment as Ub3r_N3rd cleaned us out!

We appreciate your understanding....

 

8)

George

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George, I received 6 of these 19 pads. Really like them. I posted the pics above to give everyone easy reference to see what they all are and all the options of them.

I'm encouraging everyone who got some to post their work here whether it's basing or terrain.

Here's my first little base using one of the pads.

post-7987-0-46965000-1439954076_thumb.jpg

 

I made this out of green stuff epoxy putty, from the Sanctuary pad side B.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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C'mon Ub3r, you know I was teasing!

 

8)

George

 

any idea when they might be available to the general public?

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Not sure when (or if) they'll be made available at retail. I'll PM you a link to their store. Let's keep the off topic chatter out of the thread as I'd like this to be a resource thread for people to reference without wading through too much talk.

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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I've pressed a few using silver-grey Miliput, but haven't painted them or snapped any pictures yet.

 

Silver-Grey Miliput Pros:

  • Short set time (5-7 minutes)
  • Holds detail very well

Cons:

  • Very sticky if you're not using Vaseline, water, or something
  • dish soap just emulsifies it, instead of making it not stick to the pad
  • leaves a white residue, which can be cleaned with hot water, dish soap, and an old soft toothbrush

Price:

  • I can only talk about Hawaii's price, but it was about $20
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A few Imperial Assault minis using Industrial from Basius 2 and some old Aves Apoxie Sculpt:

post-2277-0-59534200-1440343275_thumb.jpg

 

A trio of stormtroopers painted to tabletop standard using Industrial and Apoxie Sculpt:

post-2277-0-91728500-1440343287_thumb.jpg

 

The Apoxie Sculpt seems to work decently well even if I don't wait very long to press after mixing.  I just used water as a mold release.

 

 

A Deadzone plague guy painted to tabletop standard using Aboard the Betty from Basius 1 and Sculpey:

post-2277-0-48567600-1440343294_thumb.jpg

 

For this one, I made the base ahead of time with Sculpey, baked the Sculpey, and then trimmed to fit the base.

 

 

Ron

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Here's some bases I made a couple weeks ago:-

 

88RWrH.jpgBq2ES8.jpgeJUPoy.jpg

 

Just seeing what the stamps were capable of.

 

Victoriana - Cobblestone side is massively useful, generic enough to create tons of bases but still nicely detailed. The Seafront side is a little too specific to generate a lot of bases, but I am interested to see what the pair of 'waters edge' bases I made will look like with paint on.

 

Steampunk - Pipes and Gears side is kinda useless. The pipes take a ton of putty to make, and don't look particularly good, and the gears come out with very soft details (this could down to using green stuff though, another putty might have more success). Didn't really try out the Western side (despite being my main reason for buying the stamp, I no longer need to make any Western-themed bases).

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They really are super easy to use. I found after smooshing and leveling the milliput (standard yellow) in the base if I let it cure til it's almost too hard to move (40+ minutes) then dip a finger in some good ol h2o, spread that on the top, smoosh the base on the pad. Lift straight up, BAM! Good lookin base. No left overs stuff on the pad.

 

Greenstuff- Prefer it over milliput. Worth the added expense IMO.

I've just been playing around with them, trying out different parts of the pads. I'm pleased with all of the variety on each one. I'm in complete agreement, for a pad I wasn't positive I would need, victoriana is immensely useful. Love the cobble stones.

 

A few bases made with Milliput.

post-13108-0-65211900-1440431555_thumb.jpg

 

A few bases made with Greenstuff. The painted cobblestone was made with Milliput. Compared to the greenstuff one, the details on the damaged parts and stone step are not as sharp.

post-13108-0-91351000-1440432101_thumb.jpg

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I'm going to give it a try with ProCreate, the two sculpeys I have (regular and firm as well as a mix of the two), and BeesPutty to see which I like best. I'm also thinking of picking up some standard milliput. 

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I would suggest a 1:1 mix of greenstuff and milliput.  I have found it seems easier to work with and holds better detail than either on its own.

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I would suggest a 1:1 mix of greenstuff and milliput.  I have found it seems easier to work with and holds better detail than either on its own.

To that effect - I'd probably say that Apoxy Sculpt and Green Stuff (50/50) mix as Andy does for sculpting would work here really well too for our needs.

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Man, I have yet another thing to spend money on now.  Has anyone tried Hot Glue?

I can't comment on this, because I don't have any of these ones.. but the reason hot glue works with the HS ones is that they're silicone, so they take heat very well.  I have no idea how it would react with this resin stuff...

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