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Gamgan

Gamgan WIP - Arcadia Quest

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Moving this over here as per Forum rules:

 

 

 

Any how, after a few years of not painting I decided to start again and picked up the game Arcadia Quest, and decided to work out the rust of my meager painting skills before I painted a whole army of Warforged Cygnar for my brother.

 

I had posted this before on another board but wanted to share it here also, as in the past I have gotten some great feed back and ideas from other members here.

 

 

 

 Recently I decided to trade off all my other games that where taking up too much space in my house and try to start over with a smaller box set. I am not sure how I landed on Arcadia Quest, but it seemed like a fun game to try. I almost backed away when I saw that there was a ton of cool KS exclusive minis but then saw the ebay prices for them.

 

I decided to give the new KS Inferno a try ( late backer) and some how stumbled on some one selling Arcadia Quest plus guild master pledge. I offered $150 for it and they accepted ( Plus $30 shipping). Total $180 for Arcadia Quest base set and guild master pledge ( Plus Nameless campaign) Much better then the $500 being asked on ebay for this set.

 

GO figure, I now have a pile of figures and the one Hero my wife wanted to play I don't have ( Pigsy). I have nothing against Proxies so will try find one later for him. I did recently order a Impact Miniatures Medusa to make a Elysia Proxy. ( Shes a Medusa that came out with the first Kickstarter but now runs from $65 -$130 on ebay....not going to happen)

 

First thing I did was  look for pictures of what other people had done to get some ideas, and I saved a bunch of pictures for reference.

 

 

I decided to try warming up with the goblin archers. I have not painted in years and most of my paints have dried up. So I am finding out what I am missing as I go along. I spoke to a member that had painted his figures over at boardgamegeek since he had the look I was after. He suggested I tried using Army Painter Quickshade Strong and Soft. I just happened to have an unopened cant of Strong shade here on a shelf and not sure If I have the soft shade some where.

 

 

 

Goblin Archers

 

Cleaned them up with a scalpel( Instead of using my Xacto knife I had a spare box of scalpel blades). After I cleaned up the minimal flash lines I washed them and took them outside to prime. I wanted to try Rustoleum X2 Off White paint + Primer. I shook the can for a few minutes, started to prime, they seemed to be coming out ok then the can started to sputter and spit globs of paint. All of my goblins got hit with the splatter before I knew it and they just got messed up.  I didn't take a picture as I quickly tossed them into a cup with brake fluid. Few hours later I scrubbed them, and put them back in. Did this maybe 5 times every 4-6 hours for the next day or so. Most of it cleaned up but it was definitely a false start.

 

This is what they looked like after a lot of brushing, I got maybe 80%-90% of the primer off.

20160228_210224_zpstrkqphcg.jpg

 

 

I didn't want to try my chances with the spray primer a second time, and tossed in a corner I found a very old dropper bottle of Masters Paints Brush on White Primer. So I gave it a shot. Did a some what very light coat.

 

20160228_213934_zpsu5udnb0n.jpg

 

 

I'm guessing a thick coat was not needed, so I didn't bother doing 2-3 coats until it was completely white as I'm not sure if that would be needed. I did not water down or thin this primer, that's just how it applied with 1 coat.

 

 

I had seen some one else post on the Arcadia Quest gallery some Goblins with the non standard pin point eyes. They had painted Anime style big round eyes for their goblins and they looked pretty neat and even posted a step by step on how to do it. I did not copy down the name of who shared it and if I find it again I will give credit to its auther.

 

Here is my first try at doing the eyes ( before anything else just in case I ended up doing a new coat of primer. I did the eyes first then did the green skin.

 

20160228_221513_zpsdcbpxu3y.jpg

 

Next time I will do the skin first and make sure I leave a little black around the eyes to give more depth. I hope the strong shade can correct this. ( I ended up re-doing this goblins eyes and painted the eye sockets black first to give it some black edges).

 

 

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Next day I was going to do a double shift at work so I took a few figures with me and had my partner clean up a few of the orcs, and other monsters while I worked on the goblins. He was bored enough so he did :)

 

20160229_160654_zpsnseergyn.jpg

 

 

 

My 2 guys with spears ( I have yet played the game so do not know any of the monsters names yet!!) they had both their spears a little bent so I sent them into the just almost boiling water bowl.

 

20160229_160752_zpsdbtgo7gb.jpg

 

 

I left them there for about 40 seconds but that was way to much, when I pulled them out they where really soft and jiggly. They could have used a lot less time. I held the spears straight and held them under the cold tap water. Left them outside to dry, primed them and then discovered I had bent both of their bases in a odd shape and had to redo this process.

 

 

My friend explained that it was my nozzle in the rattle can spray paint that got clogged and messed up my priming. I switched out the nozzle, and I tried again a second time on a rock, then a stick, then a leaf and then finally I primed all the orcs, the troll, and the 2 goat men and the minotaur. They felt tacky still 6 hours later but today almost 20 hours later they feel normal.

 

I choose 2 shades of green, Master Painter Core colors Grass green and Army Painter green. I did 3 goblins in each color. As I was doing my first 2-3 thin base coats I played around with the eyes. Just to see if I would like something else better.

 

Snake Eyes

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No Pupils

 

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Few side by side attempts

 

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Tried to see if he would look ok looking to the left or the right

 

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I took waaaay to long to paint these guys. I spent maybe 5 hours painting them while listening to music and talking to my co-worker. I know I lost a lot of time testing things out and playing around with the colors. I kept cleaning up my lines too. I'm sure I could have been a little more sloppy and let the army painter quickshade clean it up, but I kept going back and cleaning up every tiny bit of paint that slipped out of its line/edge. I will not be able to do this on the other minis if I plan on ever getting them done.

 

I only brought maybe 5 colors with me so I was also playing around mix and matching colors to see how they would look.

 

20160229_235528_zpsfcffyond.jpg

 

I choose to stick to the anime style eyes instead of the standard pin point eyes. Here is another unfinished side by side;

 

20160229_235607_zpsnc1saax7.jpg

 

Not sure if its because of how I was holding them or my primer is old, or  I didn't use enough, but its a little too easy to rub the paint off these guys when I was holding them by their ears. I will make sure to give them a double coat of Vallejo mat varnish after the shading is dry.

 

Here is another WIP, finished up the battle paint, still missing the quick shade.

 

20160301_150511_zpspjzecpvl.jpg

 

 

 

I have never been really good painting minis and I would paint for a while then stop for a year or so, paint again for a few months then stop again. Each time I have to relearn how to do things. I know I'll get faster, I just need to stop messing around. Any suggestions and advice are more then welcome.

 

OH and I started using a wet pallet today, and loved it. But turns out it wasn't a fully functional one since the paper did not let water pass, it was a stick proof baking sheet. I tried 4 other brands and gave up so I just ordered some "official" wet pallet paper on ebay.

Edited by Gamgan
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Update #2

 

I am not going to win any speed painting competitions with these guys. They are really simple but I am so rusty and my paints are all messed up from years of not being used, or replaced, I keep finding globby almost dried up paints, and my attempts at making a wet pallet have failed as I have not yet found a semi-permeable parchment paper ( baking paper) that works as the 4 brands I purchased didn't work. I just ordered official wet pallet replacement sheets on ebay.

 

 

I used two different shades of green on these guys so I made a mark to let me know who was who. A line pointing straight out was Olive Green and side ways was Grass green. In hindsight from now on Ill use brighter shades of green as the Army Painter strong tone I used really dulled the colors down a ton.

 

 

20160301_233712_zpsn4elcy1o.jpg

 

 

The best part about these goblins was being able to go wild on their warpaint. I had to stop myself from doing tiger stripes down most of them and going crazy on their arms legs and ears.

 

20160301_233735_zps117nzfmj.jpg

 

 

 

I bought a can of Army Painter strong tone a few years ago and never opened it up until I was going to paint a couple of dozen minis as once. I read a bunch of online threads about using Minwax from home depot but once thread made sense. Why spend hundreds on minis to then try save $15 bucks using a product that might end up being sub-standard. And besides I will only be doing about a 100 minis so this can will be more than enough.

 

I never used it before but had a more or less idea, I brushed a little on top of my first victim and noticed that it felt like painting with pancake syrup. It had started to dry inside the can it seems even though it was never used. My first goblin got the pancake treatment and turned out REALLY REALLY Brown. Like a very bad spray on tan.

 

 

 

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I added a few caps of Mineral spirits to my can of army painter to thin it down a little bit and my second gobby didn't get such a thick coat. Goblin with the X war paint got a thinned out coat of army painter.

 

 

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Next two guys same thing, just a lighter coat.

 

 

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Cleaning up a base really makes a huge difference. After about 24 hours to allow the Army painter quickshade to dry I gave the bases 2 coats of Game Colors Codex Grey / Cold Grey.  Just this one step made them look a lot less messy.

 

 

20160302_221157_zpsyjwyaycl.jpg

 

 

I saw some one had posted this with their heroes. I can rebase my minis easy but I would have to order new bases and just the thought that that will be about a 100 bases, I decided to do a quick paint job instead and I can always go back and rebase them even though they are painted. I tried doing this paint scheme ( I can link the original from the gallery if any one wants to see it) and I pretty much failed. My lines are two straight and way to thick. It doesn't sell the idea at all.

 

 

20160303_135836_zpsuwgjeywk.jpg

 

Didn't stop me from trying. I did the lines with a standard brush, I should have used a detail brush to make them thinner.

 

I first did the lighter grey then the back on top of that. My lines where to big so I painted the edges of both black and light grey with the darker grey color to thin out my lines more. It helped. Still does not look ANYTHING like the original in the gallery, but I can always go back when I get better at it.

 

 

20160303_135909_zpsyzglhw07.jpg

 

 

 

My warpaint go too dark, next time Ill use much lighter colors, so I did a quick once over on them. When I took a picture I can see the contrast so I will give them a very very thin watered down coat of the original color to blend in the 2 different tones on the warpaint. Also on these pictures they already received 3 coats of Vallejo Paint on Matte Varnish

 

 

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And while they dried up I did a vanity shot on a statue that was a gift from my wife. ( She got it for $5 at a flea market, I think it will look great with a Reaper Bones Undead dragon on it)

 

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If I plan on finishing the rest of these figures I really need to figure out how to do a very simple base coat and let the quickshade do its work. I spent too much time on these, but I am sure its from having been years with out painting. Any suggestions and advice is always welcome.

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3am and instead of sleeping decided to work on my orcs.

 

I had started to paint them the same colors as the goblins but this was before I learned how much the quickshade army painter STRONG tone darkened them. I decided to give my very old pot of Citadel Goblin Green a try. Looks sort of a lime green.

 

Also, the rustoleum off white can of primer I used, it was SATIN. I had not noticed. It gave the paint a sort of slick texture. The result is that my acrylic paint just rubs off if I breath on it too hard. As a base coat its actually counter productive. I don't think I want to re-prime them with my paint on primer or new can of Matte white spray paint but I will give them the Army dip plus 2-3 coats of Vallejo Matte Varnish to protect them.

 

Instead of just plowing through all 8 orcs like I did my goblins I decided to sort of finish one first then get an idea how to go about the other 7. I know my captain's will have a different color then the normal grunts.

 

 

A_zpsj5hhwoib.jpg

 

 

I know this is supposed to be speed painting, and I am wasting time on details I shouldn't be doing but I was curious how it would look with the army painter. I took the time and first painted black all the metal parts then did a coat of Warpaint Armour color over it leaving the edges black. Same thing I did the horns and teeth first a bone white then a second smaller coat of normal white.

 

The white and off white was lost in the dip, the black lining I did on the armor you can just barely tell its there. So pretty much both those details where un-needed. Good to know I wont do them  on the next monsters.

 

B_zps6w5nqbpc.jpg

 

 

 

Not sure yet what to do with the eyes. I didn't want to do the small dot in the middle yet. I saw a few evil eyes for chibi's online and it was a white eyeball with a tiny red triangle in the middle. This was supposed to be an "evil" look so I tried it out. It still looks sort of a like a dot from table top height but close up you can see its a triangle.

 

I exaggerated on the drybrush for the fur. Its so light a color I was wondering if it would be absorbed in the dip ( It was) and it sort of worked. I found 3 tiny rings on the fur cloak connecting it to the belt. I couldn't unplug my Silver paint dropper because I left my paper clips at home so Ill do the silver details after the dip. ( nose ring, 3 rings on belt, sword edges, ear rings)

 

 

There is a tiny gap in the paint on his chin between that horn looking thing and his skin. I didn't clean it up as I wanted to see if the dip would cover it ( It did). That means I can be sloppier with the next 7 orcs as the edges will be cleaned up by the dip allowing a little more sloppier paint job.

 

 

C_zpsxyc6xfyg.jpg

 

I used some thinned out black paint and gave him dark circles under his eyes and this came out nicely after the dip. I used a lot less then I did on the goblins and didn't have to do much as it pretty much gathered in the areas I wanted. ( I forgot to check back a short while later to avoid pooling but it didn't happen so I was lucky)

 

The skulls look messy so I will touch those up before my Vallejo clear coat. ( and the silver bits)

 

 

D_zpsp4fdhe39.jpg

 

Still cant make up my mind on the eyes. Either the red triangles or the chibi style big round eyes I used on the goblins. Not sure what works for this cartoony look.

 

 

E_zpsjbgifxrc.jpg

 

Another pick of  2 versions of the eyes. Not sure yet.

7 more to go but will do a lot less painting, no black lining, no black base coat for the armor, and wont worry so much of perfectly clean edges.

I need to go find a paperclip.....

 

 

F_zpska4xchpl.jpg

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Round 4

 

 

After I had done 1 Orc all the way to the quickshade I had an idea what to do with the other 7.

 

First painted their nose, eyes, and mouth black.

 

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Although I kept playing around with the round chibi eyeball I ended up doing Red triangle's for the rest of the orcs

 

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It has to be because I was taking so long to do these but they felt like 20 orcs instead of 7. I kept staring at them in line wishing I was done and doing a hero character or anything else that's not in multiples..

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On each orc I would do a single item like the nose ring, or the wrist band or belt then move to the next until I had done 7 nose rings or 7 arm bands.

 

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Felt like they kept multiplying!!

 

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This is what they looked like before the wash. The weapon isn't don't yet as its missing its highlights. I also used black ink to give my orcs dark rings under their eyes. The quickshade will smooth it out but it will give them deeper sunken eyes ( I hope). 

 

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This Orc captian suffered a terrible papercut..

 

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Also known as .. this is why I take so long ...

 

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And this is the squad just before their dip in a very diluted army quickshade strong dip

 

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And since tomorrow Ill be doing these guys I saw a tip for white primed models and it was to use black wash to give them shadows and when I paint them I wont have to take all my colors to the very edge as there will be shadows there to help speed up the process by not having to paint on all the edges ( or something like that. will see what happens)

 

 

20160307_204034_zpswumyp5c0.jpg
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Round 5 is it?

 

I wanted bright colors so everything was primed white ( this is still from the batch of wrongly primed minis.) On this batch I screwed up and used Off -white colored SATIN primer. The semi gloss on it helps the paint just slide off, totally the opposite of what I wanted in a primer.

 

First thing I will do on any future orcs will be to start them differently on how I did these. This batch I primed white, painted nose , mouth and eyes black, did eyes first then teeth then did skin colors and weapons and armor.

 

a_zps2qtb1z8l.jpg

 

Next time I will prime white, paint skin then do the dark areas like eyes and mouth. Less work to paint skin then do tiny eye sockets and nostrils then to paint tiny black areas then have to carefully paint skin around them, end up messing up a line and having to redo the black any way.

 

These guys are 95% don't, need to give them another coat of matte varnish and finish their bases. 

 

a1_zpstzeebsot.jpg

 

 

Elysia

 

I really would like to get my hands on a official Elysia but since I cant I ordered a Impact Miniatures Medusa. Looked pretty neat online and its only $5.

 

b1_zps5a7yhx2w.jpg

 

I'll do side by side pictures later, the body is really tiny and very tiny brittle arms.

 

I did notice that the casting has a lot of bubbles. I can fix this easy but wonder if I just got a bad cast or are they all like this?

 

Again, a lot of details for just a $5 figure.

b2_zpsxfd7hzgr.jpg

 

I read a tip online about doing a black wash on a white primed mini. It not only makes the details stand out ( not really needed on this exaggerated features of a chibi) but the best part it gives shadows and depth to areas harder to paint like under cloaks or between the legs if there is a loincloth in the way. Also I don't have to bring the paint all the way to the edge of the armor or skin as the dark color works as a nice transition. It might seem silly but at least for me it felt like it helped speed things up a bit.

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Just like the orc captian, I wanted to give this guy a nice scar like his card has. I used a scalpel and carved a groove then messed it up a little so it didn't look like a clean cut. I used a darker red first inside the scar then a very thin line of bright red in the middle and then some darker skin tones around the wound to look like scar tissue.

 

Here are the first few base coats

 

20160310_225717_zps993lhgpj.jpg

 

 

I really wish, I had a working wet pallet. My paper hasn't arrived yet from my online order so for now I am just mixing drops of water into my paint and using a disposable dish. Here are the mixes of colors I have used on the Mino so far.

 

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I am using headset that has lenses on it to magnify the miniature. Each time I bring the brush up to focus on the miniature that is only about 3 inches from my nose I see the brush has too much paint on it. Instead of looking down and brushing the extra paint on a paper towel I brush it off on my hand. I know its lazy but it works fine and I can wash my hands afterwards. Also great way to check for drybrushing...

 

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I painted this guy slowly in about an hour and a half. I didn't worry about getting the paint perfect on the edges of the armor and skin as I figured the Army painter Strong  quickshade would hide that. And after the dip ( brushed on) I could touch up anything I missed. It was hard to see so many white spots sticking out in the corners and ignored it but I really wanted to see if this would work. My OCD was killing me each time I ignored a slip of the paint that touched areas it shouldn't.

 

I might have spent another hour trying to clean up all my errors. I just want table top pretty miniatures especially if there is going to be another hundred on the way in a few months. I need to  learn how to do a happy medium.

 

 

Plus each time I do a touch up I keep adding layers of paint that start to become noticeable. That's happened on my bases as I try to learn how to do cracks. I might in the future buy or make a ton of bases and just swap them out with textured bases.

 

This mini is missing a few details but after the wash almost all of the tiny mistakes where hidden.

 

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Wood, bracers and inner ears can use a little more shading, might touch them up with some brown wash and a little highlight. Plus the Vallejo matte varnish to hide that gloss.

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I want to change the *Hero* Goblin for this game, hes supposed to be just a repaint of one of the many goblins in the game but for the kickstarter package you got a rebranded hero goblin that your supposed to paint a little different to make him stand out. I was hoping to do something else with him.

 

20160314_114105_zpsedfolgwv.jpg

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I want to finish painting the monsters in my arcadia quest game before I start on the 12 heroes. The last 5 seem easy enough and I will just take the colors I plan on using and paint them at work this week after duty hours.

 

 

But there are 2 figures that I know I want to try and change up. There are 2 Kickstarter reward "heroes" that are recycled Orc and Goblin figures turned into heroes with a new color scheme to distinguish them.

 

The Goblin, called Bowie, has a sneaky ability where he can attack then he can move away before the victim can retaliate.

card-H-Bowie_zpsuosswewu.jpg

 

This is the goblin model unpainted

 

mini-M-Goblin-Archer_zpsgzqdyxfd.png

 

 

I would like to try my first cloak and hood with this guy. I saw a lot of really cool green stuff modifications on Space marines and decided why not.

 

I am thinking of removing his lower jaw to make room for a bandit mask like this.

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Then removing most of his hair to make sure the hood has that neat assassin look.

 

 

 

 

 

I would like to give his front side some leather armor, since the original is naked except a lion cloth. ( Only the front will show as I want to try a draping cloak that covers most of him)

goblin_by_sc4v3ng3r-d7scg1t_zps2uqhzouk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So for now these are the changes I will try to do on him

Bowie_zpsm2wemc9k.png

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One of my things on my wishlist is I will be making a light box. It will be a simple one with just some white cloth around a cut up cardboard box with 2 lamps pointed inwards and a large piece of white paper or contact paper angled in the inside. Never made one before but I got google so I should know what I'm talking about...... or not. :)

 

These are my two victims. And they are TINY.

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First thing I noticed is all my scalpels and xacto blades are really dull. I know I have at least 4-5 packs of replacement blades, each one should have like 12 in them all brand new. Un-used. Super sharp... just no idea where the hell they are so I keep using the same 4 dull blades... until I actually take time to find my blades or end up in the Emergency Room.

 

 

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I always use way to much greenstuff then leave a bunch to waste. This time Ill do a tiny bit at a time. It actually worked and I only had a pea sizes piece of wasted greenstuff.

 

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I was lucky and the head popped off when I dropped the mini in very hot water. I was hopping the reposition the arm but this plastic felt more rubbery and didn't bend or keep its shape like the other goblin models did. Not sure if this is a different casting as this was the goblin in the Guildmaster box and not the one inside the arcadia game. Might be the same but didn't feel like it. Ended up cutting off his arm with my butterknife xacto blade.

 

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I used a hand drill to pin a piece of paperclip into the arm and shoulder, then filled up the gap with greenstuff. I was messy because I figured the cloak and shoulder armor would cover it up. I did a nice job of making that leather sleeve. Then lost it under the cloak...

 

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Not really knowing what I'm doing I started from the legs up.  I first made tiny wraps around the legs to show pants, then tiny strips for the leather straps for the feet, then a small triangle that wrapped around the waist as part of the tunic, I didn't mind cutting it as I would cover it in a belt. Then I did 2 shoulders / short sleeves. Took me a while to make them pretty ( Also I used this chance to fill out the huge gap made by cutting and moving Bowies arm.

 

The sleeves came out pretty neat, later they got covered in the cloak and about 30 minutes of details got lost :)

 

 

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I made his chin and lower jaw more or less so that I could keep the shape when I made his bandit mask.

 

 

 

 

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I used that picture of the cartoony goblin to get an idea of the armor and how it would look. I made a new quiver and hanged it on his hit, its just under his hand and looks in the wrong spot but its the only place I could fit it. If he tries to draw a arrow from that side it would be uncomfortable but I'm hoping no one can tell. Also I didn't do the dagger, might do it or might not, not sure yet. Also I made his belt and might do a gold pouch for him later. My crazy glue BLEW UP when I tried to squeeze a very tiny drop into the waist where the belt would go. It got EVERY where. Took me a while to try and do damage control. Next time Ill do the squeezing far away from my mini. 

 

 

 

I wanted the Ninja / bandit mask, and I thought it wouldn be simple and it sort of was. Just flattened out some greenstuff on my glass desk ( used water because I didn't have any water based gel) trimmed it into a sort of really wide triangle, really wide, and then started from the nose down. Made several mistakes:

 

First, when I pressed down I got an imprint of the mouth and teeth. No matter how soft I did it. So I ripped off the mask and did it a second time. Teeth and mouth imprinted. That's when I realized I should have greenstuffed the mouth first to give it a smooth shape for the VERY thin greenstuff mask to sit on. Third try. Came out a lot prettier then about 3 minutes later I touched it with my thumb and left fingerprints on it.....

 

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Still playing with the hood, going to smooth it out a little more and shorten the front just a tad bit. Also need to trim off a little lump on the middle top but cant touch it right now. Wonder if I can hit my greenstuff with a heat gun to speed it up?

 

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It came out no where near all those really pretty capes and hoods I saw on youtube either by hand or using some precut press on templates. All I know is I'm going to be doing some damage control to smooth it out with really thin liquid greenstuff, then hit it either with some of those hobby files I got last month in hobby lobby or with some different fine grit sand paper I got from Michaels. Im sure I can smooth it out and clean up those crevices. Oh and replace the bow string that I had to remove for some reason. Will use some black dental floss or maybe white floss dyed tan.

 

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I was looking for sort of a Assasins Creed look with a fully hidden face.

I still have a lot to learn about Chibi/comic style of painting, I keep going back to Warhammer / gritty dirty look. I want to do the clean chirpy happy go lucky colors and schemes..


I think I can shave back a little of the hood with a clean xacto blade or files, but before that Ill try giving him some bright eyes, like a neon color or something, was hoping for a Jawa effect.

Still stuck with his colors, cant really figure out how to make the purple cape work. Might change his mask to match.

I took a few days to build my own inserts for all the minis into an old games workshop suitcase. Now back to finishing my Monsters.

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Ub3r and XHerman, thank you both!

 

 

Bowie Update #... I have no idea :)

Any how, waited a full day for the greenstuff to dry up. I first used a new xacto blade to clean up a few bumps and lumps, then I hit it with some sandpaper from a kit I got in Hobby lobby for $4, it had 600 grit, 400, 300, 200 and 150. I am not sure those are the exact number of grit but they work really well and you end up with a nice clean smooth surface. I shaved off a little from the front of the hood and I removed the large lump behind the shoulders. Using the sand paper I tried to get that V shape behind the shoulder blades.

 

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Still have to smooth some more and will use some liquid green stuff to hide some of these sharp edges.

 

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Paint on white primer, then a heavy coat of black wash.

 

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This was my first try at a base coat, but I am unhappy with the colors. The purple just doesnt seem to match the brown leather armor. I know I can tone down the purple by a ton and lighten it up, not sure if this will work though.

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I want to do the eyes a bright neon color, to sort of get the Jawa eyes look.

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Storage!!!

I have an old Games workshop plastic suitcase that was a gift from my Mom a while ago. It was an overpriced hobby set with files, brushes, tiny vice, saw ect...

I tried using the foam inserts inside but there was a lot of dead space. I made my own inserts with high density foam from a cloth shop, I got the one used to fill out chairs and seats. I spent at least 2 hours cutting out the shapes but decided I didnt like how much space the foam used and I wanted to fit a lot more into a smaller space. I ended up making 2 trays and dividers using a combination of Corrugated plastic board ( its like plastic card board). 3mm foamboard, strips of highdensity foam and 1 yard of blue, black and purple felt. I did a sort of hack/slash job and just covered everything as I build it and re-enforced the parts together using cloth pins + glue. 90% of this was stuck together with a hot glue gun.

 

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I got lazy / tired at the end and this last tray just had strips of high density foam with out the felt cover and the 3 big mobs in the corner I still have to do dividers for, the troll, mino and Frank. That V shape is temporary only.

 

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First tray, the black one is removed to show a second layer under it, colored purple.

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Goblins up in the corner are elevated. The Big skeleton from Beyond the Grave was taller then the first and second tray so I made a additional space for him and placed the goblins on top of that.

First layer, heroes only with the exeption of the big Skeleton. I see I missed one edge of Purple, Ill add some felt later. Since all the heroes are kind of short I added a tiny bit of foam in each slot to lift the heroes up a little, if they are larger then normal I can just remove that little square of foam. This is the first level, the blue level.

 

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In total there are 2 big trays and 1 smaller black tray. This set up first all the heroes and monsters from the base set, guildmaster pledge, nameless campaing, and beyond the grave.

And this is what it looks like all closed up.

 

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Side ways nothing falls out and everything has padding on all 6 sides.

 

Bowie!

 

Ok now back to Bowie. First his armor got a hit of brown and black wash. Just wanted to see if the details I carved into his armor would show.

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Next I tried to give his warlock purple cape a purple wash. Not sure if this was the correct choice, but it did make sort of shadows plus a really glossy look I need to get rid off.

 

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I still need to hit his quiver with blue ( the one in his hip), and add a dagger maybe.

I am open to any suggestions on how to fix this guys paint scheme as it doesnt seem to be working very well.

Edited by Gamgan
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I am a 100% sure this is not the best way to do this but I decided I wanted to give it a try.

 

I was going to clean out the mold lines on my 13 heroes, but the brand new scalpel kit I purchased for $5 is just trash, feels like Im cleaning with a butter knife. I ordered 100 replacement blades on amazon for my xacto hobby knife and cant wait for them to arrive.

 

I dipped the figures into very hot water initialy just to straiten out swords and a few spears but ended up tearing off their wigs ( hair) heads and other bits an bobs to speed up cleaning mold lines. Might as well leave them off to paint them faster for some parts too.

 

Again, not a good idea but why not?...

 

The carnage :

 

 

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This one looks creepy

 

I was also washing them as I took them apart

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All these pictures are pretty much before I cleaned out the mold lines

Diva%20head_zps3yzleotk.jpg

 

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They where very easy to take apart, I also trimmed down the stumps to make sure they fit back together snuggly.

 

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I did not know Kim Kardashian was one of the heroes....

 

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Green%20Diva_zpsag8ahfnn.jpg

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Update # Something rather.... Not sure any more :D

 

 

I had not noticed that the bodies and heads could be swapped around on some of the models. Here is my GreenDiva and Zazu Kardashian...

 

 

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The white primer that I used from masters paints ( brush on) does not really keep the paint on that well. Might be that its old or I did a crappy job cleaning and washing the minis first, but I can pretty much rub the paint off just by holding the minis. I do seal it several times when I'm done ( once with the Army Painter quickshade then 2 coats or so of Vallejo Matte brush on clear)

 

Its been raining often and I have not dared to use the spray on primer.

 

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Close up pictures have a way to pointing out all of your flaws and mistakes.....

 

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I wanted to make some replacement magic potions to replace the exploration tokens in the game. Instead of flipped over exploration tokens I got 14 treasure chest from Pirates of the Caribbean Mega Bloks and placed the "upgraded " items inside. To make labels for these potions I made some "old" looking paper by first brushing on some coffee over a regular piece of printer paper, then 20 minutes at 200 degrees in the oven. I made too much coffee so decided to just drink it all, for the next 4 hours I felt my heart would explode as I bounced off the walls.. that was at least 6 cups of coffee and I normally drink coffee like once a week...

 

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I got the bottles, I think 1ML bottles off ebay for about $3 for 10 or so. Only need 6 for the game ( 2 healing, 2 extra turns, and 2 refresh)

 

I used some of her polymer clay to fill them up then backed at 275 for 15-20 minutes ( like it said in the package)

 

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For the gold coins, I used these mini plastic treasure chest that fit inside the larger ones, I filled them up with black polymer clay and did little disk of gold inside to represent if they where 2 gold, 4 gold ect ect. They didn't fare too well in the baking oven and sort of warped but are still functional but Ill replace them later.

 

I also made the 2 traps out of thin cardboard and painted them ( cereal box )

 

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I sprinkled some instant coffee on the paper to see what would happen and it was a little messy, next time Ill make sure to brush it off first. Did get a lot of usable "old parchment" for my potion labels"

 

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And here are my unpainted traps.

 

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I'll take more pictures later tonight of the completed props.

 

Let me know what you think or if you have any ideas what I can use to replace some of these :)
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I think its pretty cool, but I don't know why my unpainted Diva now has a pink (blush) on her nose and cheeks and it also showed up as highlights in her hair.

 

I had read elsewhere that some figures got a pink also but don't remember why it was. My figures where primed first yet developed the pink hue after they where used for a game ( several hours and every one had pizza greasy hands).

 

Looks kinda cute though....

 

1_zpsbci4ovhi.jpg

 

This actually happened to several figures. No idea why. ( Maybe a pepperoni allergy? )

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For the first quest, 2 hammers, I made 2 hammers with polymer clay to hide inside the chest. I only spent 5 minutes on it but when I baked it the handles got bent. I might try it again some time.

 

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These have the initials of all the players that where present for this game. Made one of the hammers look like an eagles head. Again made them from polymer clay, baked them, then did a really quick silver highlight. Spent about 5-10 minutes on them.

 

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These are the props I used to replace the tokens. I had enough treasure chest for all the potions, gold chest, traps and everything else. My friend would go to another table, close his eyes, and load up all the chest then mix them up and bring them to our table.

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This was the end effect.

 

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But my luck, this is what I kept finding. I must have gotten one trap each game...

 

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Need to paint some dried blood or cartoony looking bright red splatter on the "teeth".

 

These are the treasure chest that go inside the larger chest to represent gold coins.

 

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I thought about painting them all the same, but so far our system of blind loading them has worked and people don't know whats inside what when they are placed in the table.

 

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I have a few doors to bring to the table, but for now these props where just to spruce up the visual rewards of the game a little bit. Might make some nobles, eagles, orc blood stones ect ect for the quest on each scenario with some goofy looking effect on the polymer clay. ( Goofy because I cant sculpt :P )

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