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So I have gotten comments like this now and again:
so I thought I would start a thread to talk some about how I paint, because it works pretty well for me and maybe what I've learned and practiced can help other people too.
How I paint miniatures is grounded in how I paint paintings, so that's what I'm going to talk about here.
I have a series of WIP photos from a recent painting which I will use to demonstrate.
This is the finished painting:
"Nurturing the Phoenix", oil paint on wooden panel, approx. 18"x24" (would have to pull it out of the painting closet and measure to check)
My birthday is imminent (precioussss), and my husband gave me this resin ship model from German manufacturer Gelaendestuecke.
I've never done anything like this before: Never worked with resin, never made a ship model, never tried to figure out rigging and sails (they aren't included in the model and even the masts are just dowels at the moment).
So ... Woohoo, I have no idea what I'm doing. But I figure it'll be fun figuring it out.
Here's the box
And the instructions in their entirety
The hull and the deck
The wooden bits, the mast, bowsprit, and railings
The cabin has a few issues. Note the little spot the arrow points to. That becomes relevant later.
It also has a big missing spot from a bubble in the back
And a crack and missing piece on one side
Okay, so here's how I've begun it.
First I scrubbed the resin pieces with a toothbrush in very hot water and dish liquid. There was a nasty waxy substance under the hull which I assume is mold release.
Once cleaned, the bottoms of the pieces were really shiny, which seemed like it would cause a problem with the epoxy adhering.
But sanding resin is problematic. Its dust is very fine and lightweight and highly toxic. Bad stuff to breathe.
So I sanded them underwater, with a few drops of dish liquid add to break the surface tension so the dust wouldn't float on the water. Resin really wants to float.
Sanding on the cabin exposed a greasy, waxy white substance where that little splodge was, something like a white oil pastel, and kind of gross.
Scraping it out exposed more of it within the resin and lost a few flakes of the surface. It can be seen, rather big in this picture of the ship as it is at present.
And here's a side view.
Jade Green and Seven Dwarfs: 60184: Meyanda, Android Priestess and a bunch of dwarfs as Exalted JadebornBy Pingo
So I realized I only had one painted dwarf (!) when one of my GMs asked me if I had anything for the Jadeborn, a race in Exalted that is roughly equivalent to dwarves except for the 0.001% who are roughly equivalent to elves. And they are also sort of stone golems. Based on jade.
I thought Reaper's 60184: Meyanda, Android Priestess, sculpted by Bobby Jackson, would do well for one of the elfy artisan Jadeborn and I pulled out a random assortment of seven (because of course) dwarves for the worker and warrior Jadeborn.
All paints used are Golden Matte Fluid Acrylics. Color mixes are (usually) noted, but not exact ratios.
Questions are welcomed and I will try to answer them. Critiques are appreciated.
This is the way I usually start miniature figures: Lightly primed with Titanium White, then when that is dry, washing it over with Burnt Umber. Burnt Umber is a dark, transparent pigment that settles into crannies when thinned down and shows the details very well. It also gives a nice warm undertone to later paint layers.
I left a few crystal and gem areas white so they will have more luminosity later.
Left to right:
Reaper 60184, Meyanda Android Priestess; Ral Partha; Hasslefree HFD014 Hatherley; Oathsworn Miniatures; Oathsworn Miniatures; Red Box Games; Stonehaven Miniatures; Reaper 14143: Kara Foehunter, Dwarf Hero
The Ral Partha dwarf is tiny!
This is a figure I worked on while I was doing other things. She reminded me of a Mongolian raider from the steppes, so that's how I painted her.
She had a serious crack at her ankles. I pinned her with a heavy duty sewing machine needle and glued her down to a one inch fender washer.
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