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Idk if this is a KS model or one I randomly bought to fill out our need for giant monsters that are not cardboard cutouts. Anyway, he's done. He was going to maybe go in a desert diorama but I decided against (he didn't end up fitting). I might go back over his claw bits again tho, they seem a lot darker in the pic than they do IRL but theyr'e still just not quite right. Anyway, he's based on a couple of RL pics, mostly going for a shiny red carapace kind of idea. He's not in my WIP thread, so just a quick note, I undercoated him mournfang brown (a red brown GW colour) and then built up to the red with reaper's bloodstain red and later clotted red (my absolutely fave triad *ever*)
Whew. I finished him. I have to say, this was a fun project. The idea came to me sometime last year, but it took awhile for me to get around to working on him. I've decided that monochrome relaxes me. It's just easier somehow to take color out of the picture and just work on shadows and highlights. I think I need to vary my levels a bit, but overall, I wanted it to read as a night scene, so I'm happy. I like the idea of an accent color. I've been wanting to try that for awhile now. Though looking at him, I could probably pop the osl on his face. the pumpkin in the back worked out better- most likely because it has larger opening for the eyes. I tried to find his sku number in the catalog and failed, but this was The Headless Mousling from 2014, sculpted by Gene Van Horne.I used a bones rat, a pillar from the graveyard set, and 2 pumpkins. Anyway, enjoy and Happy Halloween! I'm using my new Iphone and seem to have issues editing, so pics may be a bit funky...
In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
Looks like Twisted is coming out with a kickstarter!
AND IT'S LIVE!
We've seen quite a few of them painted up on the forum, very cool steampunk figures. The company is owned/operated by Sebastian Archer who also owns/sculpts for his other brand (Guild of Harmony). I've ordered a few GoH figures in the past and Sebastian always gets the figures out from Australia to the US very quickly.
Some of the figures from Twisted -
EXCITING NEWS! The countdown is now on: we have set a date for the launch of the Twisted Kickstarter campaign - February 16th!
Note it down in your diaries and stay tuned for more information about what will be included in the campaign. As well as launching the Twisted rules and adding lots and lots of new miniatures, we have some very exciting surprises in store for you. All will be revealed soon - we can't wait!
By Ash Adler
Intellect devourers were always one of my favorite D&D monsters, so I'd been planning on painting this mini eventually, but I never got around to buying it since it was kind of plain compared to most other minis. As fortune had it, though, I got it as a bonus with my last order from Reaper, so I decided to just do it. Color scheme was based on a mixture of the AD&D 2nd Edition Monstrous Manual intellect devourer, the more "realistic" 3rd edition version, and a smattering of actual crabs.
As usual, the process of working on it is on my blog: link
Unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to handle holding a mini without a base that I could stick on top of a shot glass. I held it by unpainted parts for as long as I could, but in the end, I held it by the brain to finish off the talons. Sadly, that led to some of the paint getting rubbed off (probably could've avoided at least some of that if I hadn't been squeezing it so hard, but it's easy to forget my strength at times). Aside from that, though, I'm rather pleased with how it turned out . It was a simple mini, but I enjoyed it. C&C welcome (especially any tips for how to avoid damaging finished paint on baseless minis, short of varnishing a completed area to hold it by for the final parts).
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