Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
Pegazus

Orc 04 - Dragon Lock 3D Printed Figure

Recommended Posts

This topic (here) reminded me that I actually bought five orc figures to print on my 3D printer from Dragon Lock, so I figured I might as well make a WIP out of me painting one of them. I picked the one I though looked the best, and would print the best.

 

The printer I've got is a Dremel PLA printer, and I've been using the default software that came with the machine. They've since partnered with Auto Desk's Print Studio to add the ability to do supports, repairs and that sort of thing.

 

Aside: I've been playing around with it while writing this post, and found a rather unusual thing happened. Print Studio had an "optimize rotation" button, which, being shiny and candy-like, I pressed. It put the orc snout down, and touching the bed in several spots. That's... an interesting idea of how to print it. Might do that just to compare. It might actually print better.

 

The settings I used for it are below. It's a pretty basic printer, and I've done some dungeon terrain from their Kickstarter back at some point. I've also printed up large stuff, and attempted a CAV scale wooden pallet (yeah, that was too small).

 

.10 mm layers

.25 mm first layer

3 shells

35% infile, lines

80mm/s with 100 mm/s travel speed

220°C

Fan on, 45°overhang

 

So using the values above, here's the first picture. It's printed out in black.

 

Orc04_As_Printed_zpsogj3l5u5.jpg

 

If one looks at the ax handle, at the top knob you'll see a little curly que. That's what happens when the printer doesn't have any supports across a location. By default (as shown in the settings), it's looking for a next layer that's no more than 45° angled to the next one. Well, that doesn't work very well with sudden horizontal surfaces such as the bottom of the torso portion of the figure. There's a lot of curly bits under the "kilt" (English failure for me noggin'), but I could always paint those as decorative tassels, really thick hair, etc.

 

All told, it used less than 1.5m of PLA, which using the price I pay, comes out to about 30 cents for the material. That's really affordable for building up masses of mobs for a group to plow through. But let's get painting, and I'll start documenting some insights into this figure.

 

Orc04_Primed_zpsblnpwkz0.jpg

 

Now it's really easy to see what we're up against. This is just automotive filling grey primer. And there's a lot that it didn't fill. But, it's a mook, and cheap, so let's not worry about winning any awards with it. (I've got a resin printer Kickstarter I've back, OLO, so it may do this at a better resolution; we'll see). There's that big curly string at the bottom of the base. That's a vine tendril maybe. The handle of the ax... that's... uh, very worn and aged wood. Yeah. The snout is... uh... lots of hair. Yeah. That's the ticket.

 

Okay, so it's going to be pretty obviously a 3D printed figure. Meh. Mook. Cheap. Skip it. Let's start a base coat. I'm using Olive Drab, and going over the areas that are skin... and places that I think are skin.

 

Orc04_BaseSkin_zpsl6sxtplx.jpg

 

Here's where some insight comes in on how we can make this look better.

 

Thought #1: There's no way a wash is going to work on this. It'll just exacerbate the layering. Not much to do there but avoid washes. If I'm going to want to do shadows, it's going to be by the brush.

 

Thought #2: Forget painting sculpted details. Anything I can do to add detail however, will probably help hide the layering. Fancy patterns to simulate fabric (which might be really well looking, as I've got half the "weave" already built in), or insignia, or other such clutter will be useful in hiding the layers.

 

Now, in the, (ouch) four hours I've been writing this post, I hit upon using the support features of Print Studio. Here's what it looks like if I print it in the same position. I believe all the yellow areas are locations where it's unsupported, and will frizz on me. Eh. Let's see what happens.

 

Orc04_Supports_zpsvisfr6vk.jpg

 

And since it's pretty easy and cheap, let's do that strange optimized rotation, with supports. It looks like this:

 

Orc04_Optimized_Supports_zpsuce2csnb.jpg

 

That's... interesting. But for science! I proceed!

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That "optimized orientation"? Yeah, that don't work. I now have a figure suitable for use as "post-fireball" and "pre-vaporization". I'll get pictures up tomorrow, as it's night now, and I'd like to give them both a quick shot of primer to show things better.

 

The figure that was standing in the normal position, but with some supports, I think worked better than the one I'm painting. For the most part, all the supports broke off really easily. There's one that got stuck between the shield and the body, so that would take more trimming to clean out.

 

This had led to more insight however:

 

Thought #3: Print the figures out one at a time. I printed the two side by side, and whenever the print head moved to the other one, it left a little trail of PLA stringing for a short distance between them. It's easily broken off, but I'd avoid the hassle entirely by just doing one at a time. If I do just one, a lot of the head movement will be within the figure and for the next layer, so won't affect the printing as much.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, here's the first of the two orcs. This one was in the "optimized" position, and looks like he's been eaten by worms.

 

Orc04_OptSup_Burnt_zpsztkwt4te.jpg

 

But the second one, with just the supports in a normal standing position, looks much better, and almost better than the first one I printed. Compare the top of the axe handles. I think this one is much smoother.

 

Orc04_Support_Clean_zpsppsylojb.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Son of Kyuss proxy!!

 

Interesting to see a WiP for printing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ohhh Snap! I really want to get one of those Dremel 3D Printer. 

Not sure I want to use it for miniatures figures but more for terrain pieces but I'm sure I would experiment with miniatures too.

Edited by Arc 724

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ohhh Snap! I really want to get one of those Dremel 3D Printer.

Not sure I want to use it for miniatures figures but more for terrain pieces but I'm sure I would experiment with miniatures too.

Terrain is pretty easy. I've done several pieces of the Dragon Lock dungeon stuff, using it for the display cabinet. I've also got another KS set that I haven't printed a single thing out of.

 

I've got a homebrew CAV faction that is rolling around in my head (and various writing tools) that I'm trying to give a twofold purpose. First would be that there is a larger alien race, conveniently sized at about N-scale so that the confederation that species belongs to always builds to accommodate their large allies (and thus, using N-scale buildings!). The second is so I can build a very distinctive CAV style, which just so happens to be very 3D printer friendly. I'm thinking lots of very straight sides, at least at a normal to the print bed. I think I can be creative enough that I can provide for some interesting BSRs, yet have something that gets manufactured at home.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Ohhh Snap! I really want to get one of those Dremel 3D Printer.

Not sure I want to use it for miniatures figures but more for terrain pieces but I'm sure I would experiment with miniatures too.

Terrain is pretty easy. I've done several pieces of the Dragon Lock dungeon stuff, using it for the display cabinet. I've also got another KS set that I haven't printed a single thing out of.

 

I've got a homebrew CAV faction that is rolling around in my head (and various writing tools) that I'm trying to give a twofold purpose. First would be that there is a larger alien race, conveniently sized at about N-scale so that the confederation that species belongs to always builds to accommodate their large allies (and thus, using N-scale buildings!). The second is so I can build a very distinctive CAV style, which just so happens to be very 3D printer friendly. I'm thinking lots of very straight sides, at least at a normal to the print bed. I think I can be creative enough that I can provide for some interesting BSRs, yet have something that gets manufactured at home.

 

Any chance you could post pictures of this terrain? I would really like to see it. ::):

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's my CMON gallery link. I did have the filament break on one part, which is the missing parts, but I say that's just damage from the underground nature. Then the bubbles, I don't know why they appeared.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did finish up the figure a while ago (even put up a video on it), but didn't come back and close out this WIP. I had my normal end-of-painting blahs on it, so didn't try pushing things much further than a few simple layers. Now, the following pictures are huge, and show off every flaw, but looking from table top height, they really don't look that bad. I'd put up a picture of that, but... that seems a bit silly. Nearly everything looks good from far away.

 

Anyway, three pictures. First is when I finished all the base coats, then two pictures after I declared things done. Added some spots to the jacket, added some highlights, and did a simple base with some flock. For the amount of time spent, and the cost, I certainly could see someone using these to make a cheap mook army.

 

Orc04_AllBase_zpswbgcxxtt.jpg

 

Orc04_FinishedFront_zpslhywbkxf.jpg

 

Orc04_Finished_zpscdb038ob.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×