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Confrontation Foorian #2- Commission

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    • By Glitterwolf
      This is from Rackham/Confrontation an Ophidian Warrior.
      He is a Heavy Snake Infantryman for my Lost World.
       
      He originally came with a sword to put on his side, but I left it off.
      Liked him better this way.
       
      He is on a resin base from Micro Art Studio enhanded with Vallejo Still Water.
      WIP is here:
      http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/69308-lost-world-project-glitterwolf-paints-coldblooded-creatures-and-conquistadores/&page=136
       
      On to the pics, some against my Jungle Backdrop Board.
      Likes and comments welcome.
       
       









    • By NyarlaBcn
      Well, that one was a bit challenging. Mostly for the patience it takes to go through all his gold decoration lol 
      The palette is nothing special: I tried to copy Confrontation's official painting, except I used true metals because NMM are far beyond my hability. 
      Confrontation was well known for a while as one of the top miniature companies in the market. Tons of figures with a bold and eccentric design. I have a few of them but Misran is the first I actually paint. I think it's pretty original, fun, and a good example of Confrontation's fantasy style where proportion or logic matters less than eye appeal. 
       
      All critiques so very welcome! 
       
       




    • By Corporea
      EDITED: I tried to fix the pics since the originals were on photobucket.  Apologies if they're a bit off!
       
       
      Ok, face painters!  Have you always wondered how to get nice smooth skin blend?  I'm going to do my best to take you step by step through a face.  I could probably be persuaded to also move on to other skin areas, but let's start simple.  Now, while snapping photos I realized this blending is not going to be as neat and clean as I usually like it because the photoing process did interfere with a few layers.  But, we'll get it smooth in the end!  Are you ready?!
       
      First things first: A large model, to better illustrate what we're doing!  And our materials.

      We have Yephima, cloud giantess, a W&N #2, and RMS paint!  I used fair skin as my flesh color, and I'm going to shade with porcelain rose and spattered crimson and highlight with pure white.  This should give us a nice warm flesh tone.  I'll also use walnut brown on the eyes.  After snapping this, I also realized I wanted blue eyes- so I added ashen blue for the iris.  Porcelain is a retired color.  You can sub punk rock pink or just mix spattered with white and it'll work just fine.  But I had it, and I like it, and if I keep using it, maybe reaper will bring it back!
       
      1. Step 1: basecoat the face with fair skin.

      Hey!  My model has a little face blemish!  Oh no!  What can I do to fix  this?  Never fear, face painters!  Just take a little bit of brush-on sealer and cover the blemish with a nice layer, and it will smooth out.  You can then put another layer of basecoat on top.  I did a total of 3 layers of flesh, mainly because I forgot to wash this model and I had some adherence issues on the chest.
       
      2. Step 2: The eyes!




      Line with walnut.  Doesn't have to be perfect.  You can always touch up with flesh.  Paint the sclera white.   Pure white probably isn't as good as linen or leather white, but I'm trying to limit our palette.  Add the iris- ashen blue, as you can see.  Here's where we pick the direction of gaze and try to make the eye "look" in the same direction.  Takes some practice to figure our what works and what you like.  Again, if paint goes where you don't want it, just touch up.  Hmmn... I could have sworn I took one with just the blue... at any rater, after the blue is down add the walnut brown pupil.  Then dot the pupil with white.  Sorry, that back eye is hard to see.  Usually there's an easy eye and a hard eye.  Some people start with the hard eye.  I start with the easy eye, so at least one will look the way I want!
       
      3. Step 3: Breathe.  Don't forget to breath again now that the eyes are done!
       
      4. Step 4: Shading.

      This is a lot messier because I'm pausing to photo- sorry!  First I lay down a thin glaze of spattered crimson all the way to the edge of the walnut, then clean the brush and just smooth the edge out using a damp brush and some feathering type strokes.  Thin is better.  See how nice and translucent this layer is?  You can easily see the flesh underneath.
       

      I went back in with a thin glaze of my flesh to reclaim some of that cheekbone from the shadow.  Then proceeded to put some crimson on the side of the nose and smooth it out.
       

      I really tried to catch each specific step.  But- you can see how thin the layer is, then how it smooths with a damp brush.   I usually do a few layers of this and reclaim my flesh with a thin glaze if I feel I have too much shadow tone.  The crimson will mesh nicely with the walnut so that it looks like she has nice intense Maybelline lashes!  Er- probably don't want quite this much contrast with a male face.  If I were doing this on a male model, I'd pick something like ruddy brown to line the eyes.
       
      More soon!

    • By Glitterwolf
      Another on of my real oldies.
       
      Tried an albino look on this one.
      French company Rackham made these for their Confrontation line.
      Great minis, now oop, replaced by low quality plastics before the company crumbled.

    • By Silver Jack
      Hi,
      they wait three years for painting. When I started miniature painting i fell in love with rackham miniatures but I thought I was not enough skilled to paint them. Now I think I am:).
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       
      I want to make a freehand on shields of last two skorize warriors but I have to rest a while. Making bases was super fun.
      All comments are welcome.
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