Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I use Vallejo Fluros and mix them into the paints I am using.. but I've also just used some Fluro craft paint..  

 

Reaper Clears work great.. I also use vallejo transparent orange 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of the HD colors are pretty bright and well pigmented.  

 

In the core series, phoenix red, fire orange, jade green, moth green, and fresh blood are all vivid. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moth Green is my absolute favourite paint that Reaper makes. I'm considering buying some backup bottles just to be on the safe side. I would also highly recommend Spectral Glow. It's gorgeous and versatile.

 

If you're looking at other lines, then I would very highly recommend Warcolours. Their paints are super vibrant and very well pigmented. Their consistency is a bit different from Reaper's and they tend toward being more transparent, but that's a really good thing if what you're looking for is to change the tone of things with an effect like OSL. They also have fluorescent paints, which I prefer using over the Vallejo fluorescents (I have both,) mostly based on the consistency of them.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all very helpful
 

Moth Green is my absolute favourite paint that Reaper makes. I'm considering buying some backup bottles just to be on the safe side. I would also highly recommend Spectral Glow. It's gorgeous and versatile.

If you're looking at other lines, then I would very highly recommend Warcolours. Their paints are super vibrant and very well pigmented. Their consistency is a bit different from Reaper's and they tend toward being more transparent, but that's a really good thing if what you're looking for is to change the tone of things with an effect like OSL. They also have fluorescent paints, which I prefer using over the Vallejo fluorescents (I have both,) mostly based on the consistency of them.


War colors! Hmmm i have been wanting to try them out too! I'm not a fan Vallejo paints. EVERY single bottle i have purchased over the years has clouded up. I have never had that issue from Reaper. I would say 99.7% of all my paints are reaper. 

 

Is there a company that has a box set of neons/brights/clears?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<snip>

I'm not a fan Vallejo paints. EVERY single bottle i have purchased over the years has clouded up. I have never had that issue from Reaper. I would say 99.7% of all my paints are reaper. 

What do you mean by "clouded up"?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

<snip>

I'm not a fan Vallejo paints. EVERY single bottle i have purchased over the years has clouded up. I have never had that issue from Reaper. I would say 99.7% of all my paints are reaper. 

What do you mean by "clouded up"?

 

I am curious as well.  While none of my paints are more than three years old, I have yet to see any behavior I would describe as "clouded."

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're looking at other lines, then I would very highly recommend Warcolours. Their paints are super vibrant and very well pigmented. Their consistency is a bit different from Reaper's and they tend toward being more transparent, but that's a really good thing if what you're looking for is to change the tone of things with an effect like OSL. They also have fluorescent paints, which I prefer using over the Vallejo fluorescents (I have both,) mostly based on the consistency of them.

 

I'll mention Golden Fluid Acrylics (Pingo's favorites), which are about the same viscosity as most minis paints. In particular, the single pigment colors like Dioxazine Purple, Cobalt Blue, Quinacridone Red, Permanent Green, Primary Yellow, ....

 

Disadvantage is that you'll need to dull coat them when you're done, as they're semi-gloss. But they're quite saturated.

 

Watch out for fluorescents, as they tend to be evanescent, especially when exposed to UV.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Neon Colors triad is great. Punk Rock Pink is one of my favorite bright colors. It has a slight magenta/purplish hue to it, and I've used it as a highlight color in gems and crystals. LED Blue is also a great teal-ish highlight color. Neon Yellow is a bit iffy, as it has a greenish cast when compared with most other yellows; I haven't used it much, as I prefer using Moth Green for a bright acidic highlight.

 

Consider also the Pastel Colors Triad.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure about the neon colors but I have all the clears and they're outstanding for punching-up their respective color. If you paint a red cloak (for example) and the color isn't as bright as you want it, add a clear red glaze or two and it'll help saturate the red. I have also used inks for that, but they're usually glossy. You can also mix clears into other colors to increase the normal color's saturation and slightly increase it's transparency. Never tried them for OSL effects.

 

+1 for the pastel colors triad, especially Mint Green.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<snip>

I'm not a fan Vallejo paints. EVERY single bottle i have purchased over the years has clouded up. I have never had that issue from Reaper. I would say 99.7% of all my paints are reaper. 

What do you mean by "clouded up"?

I am curious as well.  While none of my paints are more than three years old, I have yet to see any behavior I would describe as "clouded."

 

Paint on my wet palette after sitting for about a minute gets cloudy white on top and I have to remix it. Now I'm use to doing it but I switched to reaper and that paint never does it. And believe me when I tell you I shake the crud out all of my paints. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not going to suggest colours, because while a bright saturated colour can be an important component when you're painting OSL, it's not the key component. The key component is... light! What I mean is, your light source needs to be the lightest value thing on your figure (probably the only item that uses pure white), and the areas that are reflecting light from it need to have much brighter highlights and not nearly as dark of shadows as the areas that are not receiving light from the light source. You can get that right using black & white (or taking a picture of a figure in B&W to test) and still convey a light effect with no colour at all.

 

Colour-wise, what is as helpful or more helpful as using bright saturated colours in your light colour is to use duller and less saturated colours elsewhere. What I mean is, if your wizard is wearing navy robes or dull blue robes rather than bright robin's egg blue robes, the bright green or orange spell effect will look even brighter. 

I type a bit more about it here, and have a link to two example figures I've done. The left one was my first attempt at OSL. The highlights are no where near bright enough, shadows away from the light aren't dark enough, and the colours of the figure's clothes are too close to the light colour. On the one on the right, I used much duller colours on the clothes as well as a brighter colour for the light, and I did a lot more highlighting close to the light, and darker shadows away from it. This could be pushed even further than what I've done on that figure, mine is meant to be a character with a spell effect in decent lighting, someone in a dark dungeon would have way more shadows than what I painted.

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/50088-osl-help-andor-comments/?p=735197
 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As Wren says, OSL is more about controlling values and saturation than using a brighter paint. And getting convincing OSL in a generically sunlit style mini is going to be hard, because it has to be a really intense light to cancel out the power of sunlight. You can usually get the best results with a lower secondary light source that can show in the shadows of the primary light source.

 

And also as Wren say (:)) doing OSL in a dark environment is much more dramatic. When I painted the Oathsworn mage, I used both value and saturation to give the illusion of lights (and also color contrast and some of the shadow lighting I mentioned). Also remember your material properties, metal is going to reflect the light stronger, wood is going to absorb it, etc.

 

https://cashwiley.com/2016/08/06/oathsworn-female-human-mage/

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By LarsM
      After a long nights work at the Lucky Sunrise Inn, Eric the Bard stepped out of the back-stage door, he had rather heavy bag of gold hanging in his belt, it had been a good night. The streets were empty, and he began the walk home, but as he turned the first corner he saw the most beautifull sunrise over the roof tops. He just had to take his hat off and admire the sight...
       
      Two old minis, probaly Ral Partha.
      The base is scratch build, mainly from sculpting clay, a bit of wire and green stuff and short piece of plastic tube. The skull and the 'Lucky'-sign (the shield) is from the bits box.
      I tried to work with a bit of NMM, but I'm too satisfied with it. Mostly the handle on the bards sword is a bit off.
      But in overall I'm happy with it, and it was a lot of fun to paint, I'm just a sucker of OSL so hope the effect is visible.
       
      Any kind critiq is more than welcome, thanks for looking.
       
       







    • By ThirstyBob
      Finished Spellweaver from Gloomhaven for a comission. First attempt at OSL, and first bona fide 28mm eye job. C&C welcomed.


    • By Geoff Davis
      My OSL project -- 02682: Selmarina, Witch by Bob Ridolfi.  My intention is to make the orb look like a flaming orange gem.
       
      Comments and criticism are welcome.

       

       

       
    • By Pochi
      This is Istariel from Judgement. I am pretty happy with how she turned out.
       
      I used the Olive Skin triad on her. I just bought them at Cancon and wanted to test them out. Really like them so will be ordering some of the other skin triads soon. I used several other Reaper paints including Nightshade Purple (my favorite!), and the clears = red, yellow, and purple.
       
      She is the first 54 mm that I have painted. I figured with her being larger, her eyes would be bigger. Nope!
       
      With so much fire and the way that it wraps around her, it was hard to do realistic highlights and shadows. I instead decided to highlight and shade her "normally" with some respect to the fire as a light source but not a set in stone guideline. I then did OSL on her using the colors of which part of the flame I thought would be hitting particular areas. My favorite parts are her right side, her underlit underboobs, and the back of her hair.
       
      She has a lean. I have reglued her twice and she still leans. I am sure it is user error but damned if I can get her to stand straight!
       
      Thanks for looking. C&C always welcome.
       





    • By buckyball
      Here is a figure I am working on for an ongoing D&D campaign.

      He has this glowing ball thing.
       
        buckyball
       
       
  • Who's Online   37 Members, 2 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×