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So I'm painting up the Mantic Giant. I'm calling him James, because the head I'm using is very much a James Hetfield head.
Say hi, James.
I started off by priming with a sample of Badger's Stynylrez that I got with last year's RCon swag bag and my Badger Patriot 105 airbrush. I'm pretty sure the primer is their olive green. I used the olive green because I couldn't find the sample bottle of the more off-white/yellow Stynylrez primer that I got from the swag bag two years ago. Then I found it after I finished priming and started trying to mix up a flesh tone. Go figure. I didn't take any pictures of the primed pieces, because all they were was olive green all over.
When mixing up my skin tone, I wanted something tanned looking, but darker and more bronzed than Reaper's tanned skin. I wanted it to look more like how the skin of someone who works outside all summer long tends to look, with that almost leather look that they tend to get. After all, a giant like this guy isn't going to be spending a lot of time indoors, especially not if he's part of an army.
So I started with Vallejo bronze fleshtone and leather brown in roughly equal parts. Which ended up too orange. So I upped the leather brown, and it was still too orange. So I added in Reaper Tanned Shadow, and I almost got it where I wanted. The final touch was some Reaper tanned skin, and I got it to be good enough. Don't ask me proportions, because after the first mix I have no idea. I just threw some color in, stuck it to the vortex mixer for a few seconds, and then looked again to see if I liked it. I finished it off by making it airbrush-ready with some Createx 4012 reducer.
In this picture, it's the unlabeled bottle in the middle. The other bottles are the paints I mixed together to get it.
Now, armed with my skintone, I decided that I wanted to try a different airbrush. So I broke out my Badger Renegade Krome for the very first time and started applying. The difference between the Krome and the Patriot is night and day because of one simple, but amazing, feature - an adjustable trigger stop. It's freaking sweet. No worries about over spraying massive amounts of paint accidentally, and you have so much more control over your lines because of it.
And the skin is where I stopped for the night.
So I'm going to be making a diorama for a friend soon. I have a pretty solid idea of what I want to do but no idea how to go about it. I've never worked with cork before and am going to be using quite a bit of it. I want to pour water effects(?) into it but don't want the cork to soak it up. My questions are (photos to be added below for reference):
How do I seal the cork so it won't absorb the resin water effects? Do I need to seal the wood I am basing it on as well? If so what is the best way to do that? What is the best glue to put the cork on the wood, sealed or not?
How do I fix the small hairline cracks in the cork (not sure if they're visible in the picture)? Kind of related but what is the best glue for plastic to wood (I'm going to be putting the wood on top of a painted Tropicana lid)?
I got this for myself:
I'm having tons of fun with it. I've finished 2 so far and am onto a third. I'm trying to implement my 3D painting techniques onto paper, like highlighting and shading.
ETA: I'm using colored pencils not paint.
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