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(.. continued from here)
He was a middle aged man carrying books under his arms and on a bundle slung across his shoulder. Many bobs and bits dangled on ropes attached to his body. He was out of breath and looked as if he really wanted to be somewhere else.
-You must be Master Barius' apprentice. Rufus was it?
-Good, good.. I have urgent business with your master. Please take me to him.
After a longbut uneventful journey they finally reached the gates of the gardens of Barius' Tower. It was a high tower made of ivory with no apparent windows or doors.
-This way, Mi'lady.
Once they were inside the tower, Finarri was surprised to find it to be much more spacious than it seemed from outside.
-Magic.. she muttered under her breath, her unease increasing yet her mission urging her to go on.
-Is that you Rufus? Have you found the tomes? All of them, yes?
Spoke the old wizard without raising his head from the ancient book he was leaning on.
-Ehem.. Master, you have a visitor.
There was a long and unnerving silence and the old man finally raised his head and looked at Finarri as if realizing she was there for the first time.
-Hmm.. so it seems we have a visitor Rufus. Why haven't you told me before?
-But I ... oh nevermind. This is Lady Finarri from the High Temple, master. She is a..
-A Paladin, yes, yes.. I can.. feel it.. So, Lady Paladin.. what brings you to my Tower?
Well, having been bitten by the Frostgrave bug it seems that I have evolved from boardgaming to the wargaming episode of my life. I have started by getting and painting my wizard and apprentice to some semblance of a tabletop quality..
Well, said too much already. Thanks for looking and C&C is always appreciated.
I've had these for over 2 years and never got around to painting them. Sigh..
But, thanks to one Frostgrave scenario that calls for six statues, I realized I could hit two (or six) birds with one stone and voilà!
Bases are cork and attached to the mini bases with poster putty since when they activate they can come down from their plinths.
In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
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