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2 hours ago, Dilvish the Deliverer said:

I hadn't touch one either before I helped George.  It not that hard.

Lawl, my mind went south real fast. 

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9 hours ago, Pingo said:

 

Any linen blend is going to dilute the qualitites of linen.  Polyester ... is not a fortuitous fabric.  I only ever use it for lining leather (because leather rots natural fibers fast).

 

A few things about linen.  It is super comfortable in the summer (so, surprisingly, is wool).  It does not take dye very well.  It fades fast in the sun (there is a reason linens historically were white).  It wrinkles like a shar-pei when worn.

 

 

 

Good to have confirmation; thank you.

I should probably point out that I'm familiar with linen's tendency to wrinkle when looked at funny. For this purpose, I consider that to be a design feature, not a flaw (Mr. Thorne owns a couple of linen shirts. Which ... have yet to meet an iron. He doesn't care, and I can't bring myself to worry about it). This is slightly heavier fabric, and the wrinkling will only be a pain in the butt for the cutting/sewing part. After that, it can wrinkle all it wants, and I will not be concerned. I know just about enough about fabrics and sewing to get myself into trouble if I forget to check steps, which ... um. prompted the purchase of a few yards extra in case of catastrophic flux-up. Eheh. ^^;

 

The dye is something I suspected (I have a vague memory of an incident that didn't go as planned .. that wasn't the vividly pink silk blouse.. Mom wanted rose and got Neon Princess Pink. I didn't ask...); I am not concerned about it; same reason. If it's splotchy and weird, the more so, the better. If I have to do it a couple of times, so be it; as I said, not so much of a problem as all that. Right now, I'm more concerned about the first wash and finding whatever pattern I used for the cutting phase and space to cut it out.

 

I have noticed, and this may just be because I'm finicky about things not feeling right, that poly added to nearly any natural fiber makes it really nasty and unpleasant to handle. I don't know if that's just me, or if it's an actual thing, but .. .I really don't like poly blends. Crunchy-sticky-rough is not what fabric ought to feel like. Linen is .. sort of smooth-rough, with drape (some of it, anyway). Linen/rayon has more drape to it, but retains the proper texture. They didn't have any linen/wool or linen/silk, but even the linen/cotton blend I found, while a little stiffer than the rayon blends, didn't feel crunchy-sticky!

Poly fleece seems, so far, to be fairly consistent, but .. man, are there some weirdnesses in blends....

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5 hours ago, Dilvish the Deliverer said:

I hadn't touch one either before I helped George.  It not that hard.

And now look at you, base coating minis on the hangouts...::P:

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Agreeing with everyone else here on linen and all the things about it. Like price. Gaaaaawd, I stacked coupons like crazy and it was still expensive at Joann. <_<

 

On 3/6/2017 at 9:13 AM, Morihalda said:

 

  Reveal hidden contents

8D2G3BB.jpg

Construction:

1 - Done! Took two nights, posted earlier in this thread. - The first layer of garments will be bleached linen - they were guards of the living gods, I'm sure they could afford that! I should finish the shirt today. I think I'm going to sew the pants as some sort of... stockings. Pants and socks in one. Those two-toe sock things....

I usually go with much cheaper fabrics, like broadcloth, for parts that aren't the focal point of the costume, but Texas! And this is going to be right next to my skin all day, so I need something that can be easily washed. Thank goodness for coupons!

2 - Done! Another two nights! Posted earlier. - The tunic will be sewn from a navy blue pique knit. I really liked the heavy texture. It will be easier for me to embroider the gold details on the edges, and I think it will look nice next to the smooth armor.

3 - Done! Holy cow!!! About 65 hours. Post on the process. - Armor. I will be using a combination of foam and Worbla. Worbla has been around for a few years, but it's still $$$, but a friend gave me a sheet he didn't want anymore. So I'm excited to work with it! I'm super excited to make that mask!

4 - The cape will be made from this light, white chiffon. It's so pretty! It probably would have been more "correct" to use a heavier fabric, but again. Texas.

 

Continuation of the previous post on armor creation (no photo here right now): 

7 - Finish making aaaall those tiny details with worbla.

8 - Prime!

9 - Wet sand for hours.

10 - Laugh at yourself when you decide to quadruple the amount of details by drawing on the armor with "puffy paint."

11 - Spray paint shiny gold!

12 - Buff the shiny gold with wax!

13 - Paint on slightly darker brown details in the cracks. I'd like to go back over these again later.

14 - Final check all the D-rings and connections.

 

Oh man, it's really coming together now!! Everything except the shoes (an amazing find) were made by me! ::D: I've clocked in about 65 hours.

After the con, I would like to make the helmet, neckpiece, and belt decorations!

18922051_451289601913797_178580575502601

Edited by Morihalda
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16 minutes ago, knarthex said:

We need a pic with you in it....

 

This weekend! I won't be wearing most of the pieces - I honestly didn't even plan to have so much of it done for this con. 

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Hrmmm... Either I have misplaced 6 yards of green linen, or I am misremembering it's purchase. I've got at least 6 yards each of two different shades of red and of black, so I can probably make 3 new outfits for Pennsic, but I was really hoping to make more. Two of the three I can make will be mirror images of each other in red and black, while the other with be just solid red, leaving me with very little variation. If I was just going for a single week then 3 would be fine, but I'll be there for both weeks, which means I'm going to need more clothes or more frequent laundry trips.

 

Also, I only have about a month left to get everything made. I'm really cutting it close...

 

Speaking of making clothes, does anyone have any good tutorial videos for sewing buttons and button holes using a sewing machine? I've never done either before, by hand or mechanically, and I'll need to do it for what I'm making.

Edited by Unruly

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9 minutes ago, Unruly said:

Speaking of making clothes, does anyone have any good tutorial videos for sewing buttons and button holes using a sewing machine? I've never done either before, by hand or mechanically, and I'll need to do it for what I'm making.

 

I'd skip machine-sewing entirely; I've never seen that work out well. Much easier to hand-sew them, and in my experience, much more secure.

I wouldn't know where to look for instructions; but punching 'hand-sew buttons' into YouTube or Google will probably net good results.

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19 minutes ago, Sylverthorne said:

 

I'd skip machine-sewing entirely; I've never seen that work out well. Much easier to hand-sew them, and in my experience, much more secure.

I wouldn't know where to look for instructions; but punching 'hand-sew buttons' into YouTube or Google will probably net good results.

 

What about for sewing the button holes? I'd think that a sewing machine would be a lot better for sewing those up to reinforce them so they don't tear open over time.

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Hm. Mom did that with a button-holer - a fitting for her sewing machine. I have found loop-and-toggle fastenings easier on my limited skill-set. ^^;

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1 hour ago, Unruly said:

Speaking of making clothes, does anyone have any good tutorial videos for sewing buttons and button holes using a sewing machine? I've never done either before, by hand or mechanically, and I'll need to do it for what I'm making.

 

Does your machine have a button hole function?  It usually has a rectangle icon. In this image functions L-O are for buttonholes. sewing machine   If you have that, then you can practice with it. Usually the machine sews down one side, you hit reverse or some other button, and it sews the opposite side. Machines vary. Do you have a users manual?

 

Sewing on buttons is easier. You want to lower the feed dogs so nothing moves.  Set your stitch length to zero.  Remove the presser foot from the shank and position the button under it.  You may have to hold it in place with your fingers.  Adjust your zig-zag stitch to the width of your button holes.  Turn the hand wheel slowly by hand. 

 

Practice both first. Once you get the hang of it, it can go very quickly. 

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Been reading my pattern, getting ready to start on the costume. There were a few surprises like, oh this needs a lining and some iron on interfacing? Why wasn't that on the back of the pattern along with the yardage info?  I would be pissed if I had to go back to the store, but I have a good stash on hand. 

 

Planning on cutting the tissues to size tomorrow. :) 

 

 

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Finally got my tailoring form made. Sort of. I need to get some stuff to give it a semi-rigid frame because I don't think my plan of filling it with expanding spray foam is going to work without it.

 

But it takes a big dummy to make a big dummy, and here's the proof.

20170620_234706.jpg

20170621_004455.jpg

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So my duct tape dummy hasn't been of much use so far. I kind of procrastinated too long to do what I had intended. Now I'm working on making a bunch of last minute clothes before Pennsic, and I'm running into some minor issues. Like finding out that I'd been shorted some linen two or three years ago when I bought it, so now I can't make one of my tunics. But it's all good, because I also have a pattern for an undershirt that uses less fabric and I can just make and wear that instead. Bonus points are that the undershirt is simpler to make, too. It's just not my usual style.

 

One thing I can say for certain is that this year I'm going to be buying a lot more linen. My SCAdian wardrobe is severely lacking in both quantity and variety.

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No costumes as such but I have my two old army uniforms and I've a small collection of military headwear just because (British army pith helmet, Confederate artillery kepi, German pickelhaube and a few others).

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