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Sculpt by Bobby Jackson.
This Halloween themed project was stolen borrowed from a comment made by @strawhat in the "Acquisitions" thread, Re: the shiny orange MSP sample. He suggested that the Halloween Knight would look good with shiny orange plate mail and a white pumpkin head.
So that's what I did:
Very pleased with how this piece turned out! The shiny is much shinier in person, but I think my favourite part, is the use of a white pumpkin. Definitely the right call!
Paints I used for the majority of the work:
Also made use of MSP Shadowed Stone for the shield, and MSP Pale Olive for cape highlights.
As always, comments welcome! :)
Hi there! You might remember me from such threads as "Bones! Do they blend?" and "How to use Tamiya Clear Paints to varnish your translucent patio furniture!". I don't paint much over the Southern Hemisphere Winter, as I'm too busy snowboarding, but now that the sun is out again it's time to start working through my Immortality Shelf and get some paint on some figures.
Today we're looking at the Blackstar Corsairs: 80080: Blackstar Corsair Echo, 80079: Blackstar Corsair Delta, 80078: Blackstar Corsair Charlie, 80077: Blackstar Corsair Bravo, and 80076: Blackstar Corsair Alpha.
In general these have all been painted up as a unit, using a speed paint method. The undercoat is MSP 09066 Blue Liner. The main base color is MSP 09288 LED Blue, shaded down with a succession of glazes of MSP 09280 Nightmare Blue. I love the shading this gives, it's a very striking effect. The visors I've done using a base coat of MSP HD 29806 Fireball Orage, working up to MSP 09051 New Gold, and then layering over Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow. This gives a great depth of color to the visor, and is supposed to look like the gold leaf covering a traditional spacesuit visor. The back power packs are basically a MSP 0939 Pure White base, worked up to Fireball Orange on the central core & MSP 09094 Clear Red on the retaining arms. Details have been picked out with Vallejo Model Air 71.064 Chrome. The weapons are Blue Liner, dry brushed with VMA 71.073 Black Metal then knocked back with a wash of Nightmare Blue to tie them back to the rest of the figure even if only slightly.
80079: Blackstar Corsair Delta
80080: Blackstar Corsair Echo
80078: Blackstar Corsair Charlie
80076: Blackstar Corsair Alpha
80077: Blackstar Corsair Bravo
for a 5E game. That's about all I can do for my WIP's theme after only one session. Mostly it will be monsters. Maybe I can convince the DM to tell me what's coming so I can paint it. These are just for tabletop, but my philosophy is you should still try something new on every piece, or at least work on getting better at something you can already do. Which is why I started a WIP I wasn't even originally going to bother with - for an experiment.
I was looking at the marsh troll and thinking "this would be a good candidate for glaze painting." Now if you aren't familiar with glaze painting, it is where you prime white and then add washes/glazes of progressively darker colors. It creates your midtone and shadows, then you go back in and add back the highlights. You can do it for anything but it is ideal for textures. Now Bones are white, but you can't just go over them with diluted paints. Liner works well to prime, but then the mini is no longer white. But wait, I have a large bottle of white craft paint that I used for some terrain. What if I prime with liner, give it a heavy drybrush so the highlights are white again, and then glaze paint?
Step 1: Brown liner + a heavy drybrush of white craft paint.
Step 2: Green skin starts with yellow paint. Here is a potential issue - the liner shifts the shadows to green. As I want green skin this isn't an issue but it would be if I wanted my final color to be yellow. I am also trying not to be messy as I would need to make any messes white again later.
Step 3: Sap green diluted to a wash. Now the skin is greenish.
Step 4: A second wash of sap green in the shadows to add more depth.
Step 5: His highlights are still pretty yellow in hand so I made a wash of anthraquinone blue. It will make the yellow more green and further darken the shadows.
Oh, I hit his front too. It was really blue so I started the color shift with some phthalocyanine green ink.
Interlude: Lem. Needed for a PC. Must be finished by Friday. The troll is optional.
Step 6: All leather was hit with a couple of layers of burnt umber ink.
Step 7: The wood was coated with a mix of burnt umber ink and titanium white. Some of the liner still shows through so the initial color is a little wonky in places. Maybe it'll add texture to the wood....
Step 7: Shade the wood. Initially I used a burnt umber ink wash, but it wasn't intense enough and would end up looking like the leather after a few more washes. So I used the obvious wood shadow color, dioxazine purple ink watered down to a wash.
From the front. His belly got a wash of the burnt umber ink while it was out. A couple more and it would turn olive, but maybe I'll leave it bluish. While multiple washes have smoothed it out you can still see texture from the drybrush showing through. It's an interesting effect here but won't always be desirable.
Step 8: Call it a night and go to bed. I have to work and make money after all. We can't paint all the time. Next update - unknown. I really do need to finish the halfling bard before I play around anymore.
After painting the Bonesylvanians Lon figure to look like my girlfriend's dog Erebus, I decided my dog Cadbury deserves the same treatment.
He's wearing purple trousers because Cadbury chocolate comes in purple wrappers. I don't know why I did the belt in orange though. And please ignore the crappy job on the base.
Here he is in real life:
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