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By Painting Dog
I picked up a Badger Patriot airbrush at the last ReaperCon, mostly with the thought of how it would help when priming / basecoating the big Bones models. While I've done quite a bit of successful priming with it (big and small), I got brave today and tried out basecoating my first big piece.
I ended up with a very grainy surface, unlike in my previous efforts, and am now looking at Simple Greening the whole model to start over. I know it must have something to do with the thinness of the paint, or my distance from the model, or something -- I just have no clue what it is I did wrong.
Haven’t painted in a few months but here is my 3rd attempt at any mini’s. This is the Yeti from the D&D Icewind Dale collectors series. I started with a grey primer, then white base coat. Washed it with nuln oil then dry brushed a light blue and white over the whole thing. I need to add horn detail still and base detail. Any tips on painting realistic horns would be greatly appreciated as well as any other feedback! Sorry, in advance for poor lighting/picture quality.
By Painting Dog
I graduated to the next level of painting obsession and picked up a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush at ReaperCon. Yay me!
I've already primed a handful of minis, just as part of getting a feel for the brush. But it occurred to me -- can you use an airbrush to spray on sealers? I usually give minis (especially ones for tabletop) a coat or two of gloss varnish, then hit them with Tester's Dullcote to take out the shine. I was wondering if I could substitute sprayed on Reaper Brush-on Sealer for the Dullcote step. If so, would I thin it? Or just use it as is?
Enquiring minds want to know!
I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality.
What I learned...
Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors.
After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly.
First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do.
Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage.
My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough.
Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest.
For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.
We are doing a video tutorial series on how we have been painting figures. The past couple years we have been working out a way for those who are inept (like me) and those who are adept (like Christie) to be able to paint figures fast, and well enough that they look good in person and in a photo. We have made substantial progress incorporating and modifying techniques we have learned from others (many on these forums, classes at reaper-con, etc.) Here is out latest video, step two of our pre-shading process. Feedback and questions always welcome!
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