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I'm starting to get lost here, so I figured I'd make an index of stuff I've posted. Many of these are loaded with enough pics and text that they're almost mini-tutorials. Questions and comments are always welcome. If you don't get a reply within a couple days, find me on Facebook, or add me on Battle.net (Xumenicus#1118).
ReaperCon Final Photos
2016: https://reapercon.com/mspopen/2016/artist/Joshua Anaya
2015: https://reapercon.com/mspopen/2015/artist/Joshua Anaya
Massive Voodoo Water Base (No Minis)
Pathfinder Seoni Bust (ReaperCon 2016 Open Gold)
Dagon's Emissary (ReaperCon 2016 Diorama Silver)
Grudge Power Armor Bust (ReaperCon 2015 Open Gold, Bronze Sophie)
Dark Sword Mole Alchemist Diorama (ReaperCon 2015 Diorama Gold)
Ork Timberwolf Vehicle (WiP)
14479: Dryad (Heavily adminned because she's female. Haven't gotten around to fixing.) (WiP)
Power Armored Dwarves (WiP, and possibly forgotten and/or lost)
Caddisfly Larva (Fishing)
Completely Failed Tower Implosion Diorama (Dead)
Me hijacking somebody else's thread, and using it to track conventions in Colorado
Standby for massive dump in 3... 2... 1...
Chopping this up into a few pieces for easy posting/consumption.
Where I've been: Video games (Xumenicus#1118, if you're on Battle.net), bought a new house, running a fly fishing tournament for a treehugger non-profit, part-running my treehugger fly fishing non-profit local chapter, some other random stuff, and yeah -- here we are. I promise to paint more. Seriously. I just need to paint and sculpt more. I also need to fish more. And game more.
I guess this is a thing: Apparently, I need deadlines in order to get anything done. This time around, since I couldn't make it to RC2017 (travel budget blown on BlizzCon), I aimed for a couple different challenges over at Massive Voodoo: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2017/07/mv-challenge-2017.html
Objective: Make a water-themed base. No central miniature, no real focus -- just a base. And it has to be mostly water.
Disclaimer: I'm not at all confident, or consider myself proficient with clear resin. I wasn't sure how good/bad/terrible this piece would turn out, so I didn't spend days painting this. It's got a few rough layers of highlights, a few rough layers of shadows, and basically I just wanted to turn something in, have fun doing it, and not stress about being good enough to win. The MV crowd is amazing -- I was just trying to get closer to touching the sun. :)
Supply List: Wood, coping saw, cyano super glue, wire, green stuff, sculpting tools, paint, brushes, old brushes, Ease Release 200 Mold Release Agent, plastic Solo cups, nitrile gloves, popsicles sticks (fox mixing resin), Castin' Craft® Clear Polyester Casting Resin, small sheet of plasticard, duct tape, Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic High Gloss Coating spray, sandpaper (100, 200, 400, 600, 1000 grit), Woodland Scenics Lichen, Woodland Scenics Water Effects, fly tying thread, level for leveling the curing area
I did a few sketches one night so I could figure out what to do, and this is where I ended up. I thought about doing a waterfall, or something cooler, but I was kind of in a time crunch, and only had 3 weeks, especially since things are still calming down from moving.
Picked out a piece of wood from my scrap pile...
Went to work with a coping saw until I had a pleasing, interesting shape...
Learning from past mistakes with trying to get green stuff to adhere to wood, I opted to seal the wood this time. I used cyano, and 2 old brushes. It actually works really well as a wood sealer ( http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/cyanoacrylate-everything-you-need-to-know/ ), but you need to be extra careful due to the amount being used -- more of a chance to glue yourself to something, glue to project to something, and the fumes will sneak up on you real quick, and burn your eyes or nose. Fair warning. Be careful.
I opted to use green stuff for the project. That's where my comfort zone still is, even though I'm trying to work more with Beesputty and ZBrush. The bit of twisted copper wire there is to support an additional column. Do an image search for "limestone underwater caves", and you'll see where I'm going with this.
A little more...
Starting the tree. Do a search on "limestone cliffs trees roots", and you'll see where I'm headed even more.
So for those that pay the least bit of attention to what I paint, you may have noticed that I paint mostly Ral Partha figures, which is a brand I really do enjoy quite a lot. I've been painting figures for their online catalogue for a number of years, and I just recently tried my hand at my first little tutorial, which was posted over at their site. If you are at all curious, you could find it here:
It is by no means the end-all, be-all of painting eyes, but just shows the way I typically approach painting eyes with four recent examples of figures that I've done. I think it almost feels like a WIP for four different figures. So anyways, have a look, hope you enjoy it, and hopefully somebody somewhere can get a little bit of eye-painting inspiration!
EDITED: I tried to fix the pics since the originals were on photobucket. Apologies if they're a bit off!
Ok, face painters! Have you always wondered how to get nice smooth skin blend? I'm going to do my best to take you step by step through a face. I could probably be persuaded to also move on to other skin areas, but let's start simple. Now, while snapping photos I realized this blending is not going to be as neat and clean as I usually like it because the photoing process did interfere with a few layers. But, we'll get it smooth in the end! Are you ready?!
First things first: A large model, to better illustrate what we're doing! And our materials.
We have Yephima, cloud giantess, a W&N #2, and RMS paint! I used fair skin as my flesh color, and I'm going to shade with porcelain rose and spattered crimson and highlight with pure white. This should give us a nice warm flesh tone. I'll also use walnut brown on the eyes. After snapping this, I also realized I wanted blue eyes- so I added ashen blue for the iris. Porcelain is a retired color. You can sub punk rock pink or just mix spattered with white and it'll work just fine. But I had it, and I like it, and if I keep using it, maybe reaper will bring it back!
1. Step 1: basecoat the face with fair skin.
Hey! My model has a little face blemish! Oh no! What can I do to fix this? Never fear, face painters! Just take a little bit of brush-on sealer and cover the blemish with a nice layer, and it will smooth out. You can then put another layer of basecoat on top. I did a total of 3 layers of flesh, mainly because I forgot to wash this model and I had some adherence issues on the chest.
2. Step 2: The eyes!
Line with walnut. Doesn't have to be perfect. You can always touch up with flesh. Paint the sclera white. Pure white probably isn't as good as linen or leather white, but I'm trying to limit our palette. Add the iris- ashen blue, as you can see. Here's where we pick the direction of gaze and try to make the eye "look" in the same direction. Takes some practice to figure our what works and what you like. Again, if paint goes where you don't want it, just touch up. Hmmn... I could have sworn I took one with just the blue... at any rater, after the blue is down add the walnut brown pupil. Then dot the pupil with white. Sorry, that back eye is hard to see. Usually there's an easy eye and a hard eye. Some people start with the hard eye. I start with the easy eye, so at least one will look the way I want!
3. Step 3: Breathe. Don't forget to breath again now that the eyes are done!
4. Step 4: Shading.
This is a lot messier because I'm pausing to photo- sorry! First I lay down a thin glaze of spattered crimson all the way to the edge of the walnut, then clean the brush and just smooth the edge out using a damp brush and some feathering type strokes. Thin is better. See how nice and translucent this layer is? You can easily see the flesh underneath.
I went back in with a thin glaze of my flesh to reclaim some of that cheekbone from the shadow. Then proceeded to put some crimson on the side of the nose and smooth it out.
I really tried to catch each specific step. But- you can see how thin the layer is, then how it smooths with a damp brush. I usually do a few layers of this and reclaim my flesh with a thin glaze if I feel I have too much shadow tone. The crimson will mesh nicely with the walnut so that it looks like she has nice intense Maybelline lashes! Er- probably don't want quite this much contrast with a male face. If I were doing this on a male model, I'd pick something like ruddy brown to line the eyes.
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