Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Gargs

Bones and Greenstuff

7 posts in this topic

Quick question regarding Bones and Greenstuff.  I have a couple of Bones minis I'm going to be painting up here shortly that desperately need some gap filling done on them.  I know that Bones minis generally do not need to be primed (other than maybe a thin layer of liner) but how does the GS used to fill gaps interact?  Do I still need to hit it with some primer?  

 

On a related question, have any of you used the liquid green stuff?  I'm assuming that it is also potentially pretty hard on brushes, much like brush on primer, but was curious as to what your experiences were.  Some of the areas I want to fill are actually fairly small gaps, so the liquid GS seems like it would be a good match.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use green stuff all the time to fill gaps and do conversions on bones. It works great, but you do have to prime the green stuff.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found that the liner I use as an initial coat for Bones minis also seems to adhere pretty well to green stuff without a need for primer.  Perhaps others have a different experience.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input everyone!  I think I will err on the side of caution and go ahead and primer the green stuff to be sure.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had some issues with GS sticking to bonesium after it had hardened.   Super glue to the rescue, the GS had formed a perfect negative impression of the bones beneath it so the CA glue was in its best environment and the bond between the two pieces  was excellent.  This was one instance only so my mini prep was the most likely culprit.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't tried Vallejo Plastic Putty on Bones, but I'd use it before any epoxy even on metal. No mixing, just add a little water and paint it into the gaps. May shrink. You can sand it and it doesn't require primer.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Taskmaster99
      Just finished up my Horned Hunter. Base coat is Army Painter Barbarian Flesh color primer. Reaper HD mixed with Citadel washes for the rest. The base is just Citadel texture paint with some dry brushing. 
       
      Comments and and critiques are always welcome.


    • By InvisibleThumb
      Don't know why I'm so nervous to put this out there.  Really it's just for fun and no big deal, but I'd like to enter myself into a goblin challenge starting tomorrow, May 24.  Time Tbd.  Khanjira is currently still in the box.  
       
      Tonight I will dry fit, clean, and attempt to fix warping.  Tomorrow afternoon I will begin the challenge.  
       
      Just to be sure: I have a couple packs of round size 10/0, 5/0, and 3/0.  Any of those would be allowed, correct?  They are within the 10 mm long, but not sure where to measure the 1 mm wide. At the ferrule, just the bristles at the ferrule end or the tip?
       
      okay, now to clean the paint area and I'd some colors.
    • By InvisibleThumb
      I have yet to assemble a complete figure from any of the Frostgrave sprues of plastic parts, so I thought I'd start slow with a head swap.  Enter Anval Theicedamned, Evil Warrior.  His head is just begging to be chopped off.
       

       
      I figured I'd swap one hooded head for another so I chose what appeared to be an armored hooded head from the cultists sprue and after chipping away at Anval's neck area, applied the super glue and commenced to hold it in place for several minutes.  Yes, there is a better way, and it involves drilling and pinning things.  Bah, details.  It eventually stuck and I decided on a paint scheme.
       
       Much metallics of various kinds.  Sadly I only have a few.  And a non traditional skin color.  This guy with no visible face lends itself well to an exotic or alien race.  Also, there's some nice detail on that axe.  I decided it must be some kind of magic weapon, perhaps of the air, storm, lightning element kind?  So I applied an unusual color and effect on the blade.  Sparking snow and yes, alien goo.  Also tried to give him a lightning tattoo in alien goo on the back.  
       
      Here is the finished piece.  So how convincing is the new head?
       

       
      A view of the axe
       

       
      And tat
       

    • By Rickdraco
      I have been away from painting for what seems like ages, but the other day I went back to Duke Gerrard and completely repainted him.   I kept it pretty simple, and the face is as basic as they come (I could not even paint in his eyes)  but I think overall he is better.  The main armour was painted using the palest purple I could find, a craft paint called Iris, followed by a simple wash with army painter purple tone quickshade ink. The cloak I used Golden yellow followed by a wash of army Painter Strong Tone.
       
       




    • By InvisibleThumb
      Here is my finished "spirit of the forest" diorama.  Including a bones bird familiar and metal squirrel familiar from 02756.  (The axe was from a Frostgrave plastic sprue - cultists or soldiers?)
       
      wip is here
       
      Pics

       

       

      Oops - meant to put his in show off.  How do I fix it?  Mod help?
  • Who's Online   49 Members, 2 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)