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    • By Maledrakh
      In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
      Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
      Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
      From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper,  Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
      So anyway:
       

       
      The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
      When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
      Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
      Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
      I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with  Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
      The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
      Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
      I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
       





      I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
      To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
       
       
      Kyphrixis (clear variant)
      Reaper Bones KS3
      Translucent bones
      125mm x 90mm oval base
       
       
    • By Maledrakh
      The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of.
      So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be.
       

       
       

       
      Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks.
       
      77521 Gravewailer
      Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion
      Rigid PVC / Bonesium
      40mm base
    • By Maledrakh
      From the Bones 3: Mythos expansion comes the “Camel w/ Pack”.
       
      Luckily, the pack-part is loose and fits quite snugly so it is not nessecary to glue it on.

       

       
      This turned out to be a really good thing, as I left the pack on it and went on a few days’ trip. When I came back, the camel was listing heavily to it’s right side. I pulled them straight again, too bad I forgot to take a picture.
       

      still listing...
       
      Herein lies one of the problems with the bones material, especially when the legs or other supporting bits are thinnish. They sometimes cannot support the weight causing the mini to droop earthwards.
      The legs are fine for just the camel, but they could not support the weight of the pack as well, and bent over time. I have experienced that almost all dragons and larger models need a third contact point in addition to the legs, or some reinforcement with metal rods to avoid drooping.
       
       

      It could have been a wild camel if not for the bridle.
       

      ..and the pack.
       
      80075 Camel w/ pack
      Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion
      Rigid PVC / Bonesium
      3D printed 60x35mm oval base
       
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