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I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality.
What I learned...
Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors.
After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly.
First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do.
Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage.
My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough.
Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest.
For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.
Stuck my thumb in the box of unpainted bones and pulled out a Kyphryxis.
must unbag bag and dry fit, trim mold lines and scrub, but first, the random colors...
15, ah what could that mean? I'll look later. Let's roll another.
seven! Good. Nicely spaced numbers. Will look it up in a minute. For the third roll... Well darn gotta wait for the full minute so the time shown is different... Finally!
oof! One! Critical miss. Well, it's probably a boring color at the top of the table. Let's see what this means:
15: mint green
7: olive green
1: fire red
huh. Whadaya know. Time to go see what I've got for colors... (To be continued)
By Shin Okada
There is a page where I can see the detailed images and the names of each miniatures in Bones 4.
Is there such a page for Bones 3? I got a lot of Bones 3 kickstarter minis but cannot figure out the name of miniatures in, say, Graveyard Expansion or Stoneskull Expansion.
Hello again all. I have to link these photos because Kelpies don't wear clothes down there in the seaweed! I hope this post works, I've never linked images before.
I started work on the first one thinking it was just something "throwaway" that I did to shake things up after all the undead I had been painting. But when I started glazing the first one I was just so happy with how it was going. Looking back now she actually could have used even more maybe, but I was happy with the work anyway. The sand base not so much, the paint under the sand was too dark and shows through.
The second one, leaning further over spreading her arms, was a mixed bag. The base is much better, the sand looks more like its natural colour since the paint underneath was much lighter. She had some wicked mold lines on her that were difficult to remove given her pose, both arms forward and the seaweed in between, etc. One goes right across her chest above her breasts, her arms have several... Anyway I just tried not to let them show in the pictures. Her glazing was perhaps a little more rushed so it could have been better, but I was just so excited to post them because I was so happy with the work on the first one.
Anyway please let me know what you think guys, I think I have done some great learning after attempting my first glaze only three or four miniatures ago. I am also very impressed with my progress. I have painted 7 minis since the beginning of August. That is my most productive two and a half months ever! I hope I can keep this up, I'm a beginner but have spent a lot on my setup already, I'd like to get enough done to say it was worth it!
In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
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