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Cyradis

02161: Dorn Ironspike: Angry, Tatt'd, My 1st NMM

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The freehand on the pants is a little thick, but still looks good. NMM is even more impressive for 1st attempt. I also like the hair and tat's.

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The NMM looks really good.  I also like the stripes on the pants.

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He looked great before he was done but now he looks excellent. Way to go ^_^!

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Thanks guys! 

 

Kruelbear, I tend to agree, but hey, next time I make a topless pirate dwarf he'll have better pants :) 

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6 hours ago, Cyradis said:

Thanks guys! 

 

Kruelbear, I tend to agree, but hey, next time I make a topless pirate dwarf he'll have better pants :) 

 

Out-of-context quote of the day.

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The NMM is amazing!  I like the freehand on the pants too!  I tried NMM and failed miserably my first attempt but yours came out so professional!

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3 minutes ago, Baldur8762 said:

The NMM is amazing!  I like the freehand on the pants too!  I tried NMM and failed miserably my first attempt but yours came out so professional!

 

D'aww, thanks! There are some things I think I can improve, but I am overall happy with it. Now to find a figure to try NMM on armor *gulp* The axes took hours, armor... ack!

 

I am sure you'll get it soon too; you are learning super fast! At least if we mess around with new stuff on flailed weapons, we can easily paint over it with previous methods, should we dislike the result. 

 

The practice on the axes definitely helped shading/highlighting/blending skills. I'm still working on getting the right water-paint ratios for sure, and quantity in the brush. Too much and it slops all over or leaves water marks. Too little and nothing happens. 

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A good, solid piece. The freehand, especially the back tattoo, is really impressive!

 

A couple suggestions, if you don't mind:

- The NMM placement looks great but the blending can be smoother. For that, it would help if you use some color in the transition and make the white area smaller. Metal is very reflective and the world around us is very colorful, so a straight black-to-white grey NMM usually looks more stone and less reflective than if you use blue (which is typical for steel NMM). The color will also help move the eye along and make it look smoother.

- The blending on the skin is amazing! I feel that some very, very thin glazes of red would bring him to life more. Typical applications of a thin, almost invisible (but with great effect!) red glaze is the middle of the face (nose, cheeks), nuckle area (what your own hands), knees and elbows.

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46 minutes ago, Willen said:

A good, solid piece. The freehand, especially the back tattoo, is really impressive!

 

A couple suggestions, if you don't mind:

- The NMM placement looks great but the blending can be smoother. For that, it would help if you use some color in the transition and make the white area smaller. Metal is very reflective and the world around us is very colorful, so a straight black-to-white grey NMM usually looks more stone and less reflective than if you use blue (which is typical for steel NMM). The color will also help move the eye along and make it look smoother.

- The blending on the skin is amazing! I feel that some very, very thin glazes of red would bring him to life more. Typical applications of a thin, almost invisible (but with great effect!) red glaze is the middle of the face (nose, cheeks), nuckle area (what your own hands), knees and elbows.

 

Thanks! I did use a slightly bluish gray for the NMM, but tipped the edges in black, and had a dominant white area. Agreed on making the blending smoother - the first one (his right hand, front) was the toughest - I think they improved slightly from there. 

 

What do you recommend for balancing pigments and liquids on the brush to glaze? I've been trying to super thin my paint, pick it up on the brush, then blot the brush so it isn't soaked. I end up with a low density of pigments on the brush, however it dries super fast. If I mess up the blotting, I get water spots. If I mess up the thinning, it is too opaque. I guess the glazing question applies to both the NMM and the skin. I am pleased with the skin, but could see a tiny bit of red helping. No way a pirate remembers sunscreen all the time, so he probably should have a bit of a scorched noggin. 

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16 minutes ago, Cyradis said:

 

What do you recommend for balancing pigments and liquids on the brush to glaze? I've been trying to super thin my paint, pick it up on the brush, then blot the brush so it isn't soaked. I end up with a low density of pigments on the brush, however it dries super fast. If I mess up the blotting, I get water spots. If I mess up the thinning, it is too opaque. I guess the glazing question applies to both the NMM and the skin. I am pleased with the skin, but could see a tiny bit of red helping. No way a pirate remembers sunscreen all the time, so he probably should have a bit of a scorched noggin. 

 

That is a VERY good question that I struggled for some time to answer. These are my findings, so don't take them as gospel:

- When I bloat on the paper in strokes, I usually feel that I remove a lot of the water, leaving a more "coarse" pigment on the brush. This does not go on smoothly as a glaze. 

- Bloating by touching the side of the brush for one second on the paper, then turn it around, another second, works different because more moisture remains inside the belly of the brush. I typically try the first stroke on my fingernail and if I feel if is too dry or coarse, I do another stroke on the fingernail but pressing more from the belly. This typically brings more "water" to the tip and makes it flow smoother and better.

 

Now, my non-recommended method that I actually use is to bloat on my thumb. This discharges the brush but does not "dry" it so much, IMHO. 

 

It will dry super fast anyway on the model, typically, but it should be only a slight moisture that will not have enough pigments to make rings, for example. Better to build it up than to ruin a paintjob with rings.

 

About the NMM, I would suggest being more bold with the saturation of the blue. I wish I could show you the NMM of the model I am working on, because I really like the effect of a bright blue and light blues on the metal "reflections".

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I will certainly give that a shot on the next one! Would the Heather Blue by Reaper be a good candidate for classic steel? 

 

I'll try dabbing on the thumb. I did notice a bit of coarseness by using the paper towel. Hopefully I can get the moisture to behave :)

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