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A ground-breaking tabletop building system, made of durable, highly detailed, precise laser cut MDF and grey board. All buildings come ready to use, no glue required. THIS IS NOT A KIT!
This unique system for 28mm tabletop games and RPG's uses strong earth magnets to attach the building exteriors (skins) to a base box.
Construction couldn't be simpler! The magnetic system means the buildings can be easily and quickly assembled, disassembled and reassembled over and over in various combinations.
PLAY Not only can you change skins to create different building combinations from within a range, you can also select skins from other ranges depending on the game or period you wish to play. This cross-game terrain system means you can build a Wild West town one evening, then just by changing the skins on the base box, a fantasy village for a wargame the next.
PLAY All skins are pre-assembled and designed to flat-pack away. This makes transportation much easier and considerably cuts down storage needed, keeping everyone happy.
What's more, your base box can be used as storage for your figures and other gaming elements, such as dice and tokens.
I'll edit this once I switch from my phone to my PC.
OK, I got these just last week but I wanted to use them at the Origins Game Fair in Columbus, OH, June 14-17, so I got to work the day they arrived and started washing them with dish soap and hot water. I couldn't wait for them to dry so I started designing the layout while they were still wet!
Next day I glued them in place. They are mounted on expanded foam insulation, this particular brand comes in 1/2 inch thickness, 14.5 by 48 inches. It is used to go between 2x4 wall studs, hence the odd width. Any way, it a good size for modular gaming terrain once cut down to 24 inches and doubled up. I used Gorilla brand glue to attache the tiles to the substrate; I knew PVA (Elmers) glue would not stick well to the PVC tiles from trying it on Reaper Bones, and CA (Superglue) glue does not play nice with expanded foam. The Gorilla glue I used dried white; it looks strange against the gray tiles, but as it was all getting painted anyway it did not matter. Two properties of Gorilla glue I had forgotten worked in my favor. First, it requires a little moisture to cure, and so it didn't matter the tiles were not entirely dry after one day. I also used a sponge to dampen the flat underside of all the tiles. Second the glue expands! The tiles don't fit together well and have a lot of gaps, so the expanding glue helped fill in those gaps. I had to go back later and trim some of the excess glue but that was easy with a hobby knife. By the way you might want to use gloves if you're using Gorilla glue; it sticks to skin pretty well, too.
After another day of drying I first painted all the exposed foam with black craft paint to protect it from the next step. I then sprayed the piece with Army Painted black primer; the solvents in most spray paints will dissolve expanded foam, and indeed some on this piece was pockmarked even though it was covered in acrylic paint first. After a few hours I then applied the first, heavy "damp" brush of a slate gray interior household paint I picked up on the clearance "oops" rack at Walmart. I used this kind of cheap interior paint to base coat my terrain; it's cheap and durable, but it takes longer to dry and does not cover as well if not applied heavily. Hence the "damp" brush instead of a true dry brush. Once that was cured I followed up with some dry brushed dolphin gray craft paint. I then used Reaper brown wash to paint all the wood and metal rails. I lightly stippled the rails with some silver paint and then did a second, lighter dry brush with the dolphin gray. The next day I mixed some black and brown craft paint and made a wash, and used some Reaper Red, Green and Blue liners to add some variation to the stone. Once all that dried I then applied a final, very light dry brush of a cream color.
There is more I'd like to do to this piece, like add some lighting and the mine carts that came with the SW KS reward, and filling in some more gaps in the walls, but I think this will do for now. And I have almost half of my reward left yet for another piece.
I really like these tiles; I see me buying more soon. Well done, MisterJustin and Secret Weapon Minis.
So I had an occasion to create a new D&D character after a brief hiatus from playing, and I wound up rolling a half orc ranger named Logar Quickarrow, a vociferously proud member of the Bison Clan. Naturally, being the conversion obsessed sort of person I am, I was obliged to fabricate a proper miniature for him. I apologize for a few slightly blurry pictures, as I'm still trying to get used to my current camera (which is cleverly hidden inside my phone).
After canvassing Reaper's catalog for half orcs and various iterations thereof, I quickly decided that Skreed Gorewillow by Derek Schubert was by far my favorite. It was merely a matter of transforming him from a spell caster into a ranger.
For reference, here is the miniature as it comes from the factory:
The first step was to remove both the dagger and the burning flask and make way for his new weapons. Rather than dig around in my parts bin for a matching set of new hands or sculpting a pair from scratch, I decided to simply bore out the existing hands and carve away all the pewter I didn't need and shape it to fit his new weapons. My character uses a shield in his offhand in melee combat, so to reflect this I also cut away the front two flasks on his belt to make room for a shield which will be hung there.
Next, I dug around in my parts bin for some suitable weapons. I found an appropriately aggressive looking sword blade which was orphaned from its moorings, however after trimming away a portion of the lower half and rounding it out with a file I created a shaft for it which easily fit inside the hole I had drilled in his hand. I like my figures to have appropriately shaped scabbards for their weapons, so I traced out the outline of the blade onto a sheet of styrene and cut it out as a starting point for making him a matching scabbard.
Next, I selected and appropriate bow and quiver. I also dug out a small shield, as my character uses a shield in his the offhand in melee combat. I drilled and pinned the quiver so that it can be mounted on his back where the figure's original sword would have gone.
After test fitting the shield, I came to the conclusion that it just didn't sit very well on the front of his belt. So to cover up the damage I did earlier I simply sculpted a satchel where the flasks used to be. I thought about cutting off the empty dagger sheath from the original figure and replacing it with a completely new dagger, however instead I simply sculpted a small nub at the top and called it a day. The idea was that the dagger fits almost entirely inside the sheath itself, much like a dark age Seax or a traditional Finnish hunting knife. At this point I've also drilled and pinned his feet in preparation for basing. I've also tweaked the shape of his right hand by filing and carving it a bit more so that it closely fits around the handle of the bow I picked out for him.
Next, I created a base using a very handy texture stamp made by Happy Seppuku. Our campaign takes place in a rather wintery sort of place, so I will go back later and add some small piles of snow to reflect this.
In an attempt to mirror the design aesthetic of his dagger sheath, I sculpted the sword scabbard to match with a raised bulge on top of a flatted base. I left it otherwise plain, as I intend to hang the shield on top of the scabbard much like a medieval buckler.
Next, I flattened out the nub of his sword with a pair of smooth nosed pliers to create a rough disk shape to serve as the basis for a pommel. I also sculpted a flap on top of his satchel.
I then sculpted a fairly basic hilt, using a combination of styles mixing a "viking" type crossguard with a later medieval style disk pommel with a peen block. I also sculpted a small throat around the top of the scabbard to suggest that it is actually hollow on the inside
After test fitting the buckler, I realized that a portion of the scabbard was just barely visible underneath. It was probably overkill, but I sculpted a rudimentary belt attachment to fill this gap (because I'm weird that way and can't let things like this go). I then went ahead and glued the shield in place.
I then glued the bow into his hand and glued the quiver on his back. I had filed out the opening in his left hand specifically to fit the bow I had chosen for him, so it didn't take much to get it to fit snugly in place. The bottom end of the bow rests directly against the lower part of the figure's clothing, which serves as a useful second anchor point for glueing (he is a tabletop figure after all).
For the final step, I took the last bits of putty I had mixed and put them in little piles on his base, which I then stippled to make them look like little piles of snow. Next up is painting!
Recently finished this for @Kangaroorex had a lot of fun playing with the spring theme and a monster. Also first time I've tried to build a flower (wire with paper wrapping for leaves, heavier paper for flower itself, and magicsculpt for some of the other details).
Mama Werecroc with baby Croc, watering a swampflower.
About this project
Hello again from Munchkin Metropolis! This time around I'm targeting all of you Roleplay Gamers! With my DIY Dungeon Kit you can now take your game nights to a whole new level. Being able to customize your dungeons into the format you want makes being a game master so much more fun! Below you'll see the Base Set that includes the 4 most popular sets, plus the Stretch Goal Furniture Set. The miniatures pictured are not included in your reward (I just wanted to show how I personally utilize this setup)...Other than that, the picture is exactly what you'll receive.
Too Much Information
I've recently been to the Doc and have been placed on a very strict diet and workout regimen (Working out isn't that strict, it's just 30min of light cardio daily). But he told me not to do anything overly physical, which for a woodworker means I can't really work. So, to save my heart and keep my business afloat, I've chosen a campaign that utilizes the laser for 80% of the work...with the remaining 20% being light physical duty.
Due to the sheer weight of these items, I've worked to minimize the cost on materials and labor as much as possible. The base set weighs almost 15lb and will ship in a 12x12x6 corrugated box. Making each set is 8 hours of laser time and about 2 hours physical labor (Which is why I set the delivery date 2 months out instead of 1...but for you early backers, expect me to start shipping rewards within a week of the campaign ending.) Mostly, I wanted to GUARANTEE delivery before Christmas. By setting it to October, I will have plenty of time to handle anything that comes up.
The base set already includes the 4 most popular Expansions and will make an AWESOME Christmas Gift!
The floor pieces are designed so that you can expand into infinity to make those LARGE scale battle zones.
You'll choose either 1 or 2 inch per expansion. Each Wall Expansion is designed to be as versatile as your campaign!
A Base Set ready to ship (The Furniture Set is in the bag)
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