Jump to content
Jordan Peacock

Secret Weapon Miniatures - Tablescapes, Fallout Style

Recommended Posts

I'm converting some Secret Weapon Miniatures "Tablescapes" terrain tiles to have a retro post-apocalyptic look for some Fallout-themed games for Necronomicon Science Fiction Convention - Tampa, FL (2017). My primary tools are some Japanese "plastic clay" and Apoxie Sculpt two-part epoxy putty.

(More information on the convention, in case y'all are down in Tampa, Florida in October and want to check out the game.  I'll be using a bunch of Reaper minis, too.  ;)  --> http://stonehill.org/necro.htm )

 

The "plastic clay" (pictured below) is pretty much the same stuff as Instant Mold in the US. It comes in ingots, and consists of a plastic with a low melting point, so I can boil a mug of water in the microwave for a couple of minutes, then dunk the plastic in the water, and it turns soft and pliable -- then, I get some pliers (mindful of the hot water!) and squash the plastic against a surface with a texture I'd like to "lift." Once it cools (a trip to the freezer can hasten this), I can peel off the plastic, and now I have a temporary press-mold -- and when I'm done, I can cut and re-melt it to use again.

 

Apoxie Sculpt is your basic epoxy putty (similar to Magic Sculpt, Magic Sculp {sic}, and a number of others), useful for press molds, solidifies over the course of few hours, and can be sanded down once completely hardened. It's much cheaper than "green stuff," but far inferior to the green stuff for especially fine detail (such as sculpting faces on 25-32mm scale minis).

 

So, my basic plan here is two-fold: for my Fallout (Savage Worlds) campaign, the unifying theme is that of a "road trip," so I want ROADS, and I need wrecked junkers along the way. There's no way I'm going to smash up this pretty O-scale truck I picked up, so instead my plan is to get impressions of the hood and grill, so I can add some '50s-ish car parts to my "Scrapyard" board, and a rusty hood and fallen road signs alongside a heavily eroded roadway through the wasteland. (I also posted photos of progress on converting Rolling Hills tiles into "wasteland eroded highway" in an album on my "wall," but I haven't figured out how to attach those here as well.)

 

I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm just making this up as I go along. I reserve the right to back up, chip off pieces of dried epoxy putty, repaint, and try again, if it doesn't go well. The HIPS Tablescapes tiles are pretty durable, and the deep details give me good anchor points to add some putty details, but I don't want to bulk them up overly much, or add too much weight, as that defeats the purpose of having these modular lightweight terrain tiles to cart to game stores or conventions.

 

 

19944576_10211599334971477_8242375967572

 

 

2017-07-07 Snapshot #1: Scrapyard Tile.  I didn't actually ACCOMPLISH anything on this particular tile this morning.  This is basically just to size up some of the stuff I'm working with.

 

My plan is to "Fallout-ize" this and some other Tablescapes tiles by introducing a few more "retro" elements to the details. In this case, I plan on using the Japanese "plastic clay" to make temporary texture molds off of the hood and grill of this 1:43 scale toy truck, so I can have a circa 1950s-ish truck grill amid the debris, and a hood alongside a broken road. Above is the "natural" Apoxie Sculpt (gray), which I'll be using for the faked truck parts, but I scraped the bottom of some cans of black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt for some of the next steps.  (As I said, I'm making this up as I go.)

 

 
 
 

 

 

19748452_10211599334691470_1759695867996

 

2017-07-07 Snapshot #2: Street Crack Textures.

 

First, I used some plastic clay to squash down on one of my "Urban Streets (Clean)" tiles to get impressions of some clusters of cracks represented on the surface, to make some temporary texture stamps.  The board up top is what I'm working on to make the tiles usable: spray-paint to give the street a bit of color, some pumpkin orange as "rust" for grates and grills, and several passes of dribbling brushes soaked with whatever crud was at the bottom of my paintbrush cup into the gutters and cracks in the hopes of it drying up and looking like detritus left after run-off.  Later on, I may try cramming little pieces of sprue painted up as tin cans, and wads of paper to suggest trash clogging the drains.  These particular street boards I want to look "cruddy" more than "post-apocalyptic," because I may get more use out of them for modern-day games.  I haven't yet decided on what to do for street markings.  Maybe an arbitrary cross-walk somewhere, and some dotted lines, and whatever signs of weathering I can do to make it interesting, but no fallen road signs or wrecked car parts or skulls in the gutters, or anything that TOO strongly brands this as "post-apoc."

 

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

19679320_10211599334931476_1558338958233

 

2017-07-07 Snapshot #3: Eroded Road WIP.

 

I have a number of "Rolling Hills" tiles that I've painted up in browns and greys of the wasteland, but since my campaign has a "Road Trip" theme to it, I want a few desolate stretches of broken-up roadway. I have the remains of a set of black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt I picked up to experiment with, and the stuff is MESSY (because, well, it has black dye worked into the putty, and that gets into everything and is very hard to clean up). I've still got a bit left in the container, so I thought I'd finally work on using the last of it up.

 

Toward that end, I put several lumps of putty down on the textured surface, to try to get the impression of a road so neglected that cracks in it have formed, then the road has started wearing away. For the finished product, I hope to have 3 of these tiles done up, and to have some bits of wreckage by the sides, and other setting clues. If it turns out that later on I need "plain" wasteland tiles, I can always pry the putty back off again afterward, and repaint it.

 

 

19787434_10211599336411513_2833517622567

 

2017-07-07 #4: Eroded Road with Initial Texturing.

 

I used the plastic clay "texture stamps" from Snapshot #2 to smash out the wads of epoxy putty and to -- I hope -- squash out any fingerprints left on them. (Some folks really gripe if they see a hint of a fingerprint on any of my putty projects.)

 

I used a dull hobby knife to tear a few crack "deltas" out - areas where a crack met the edge of a pavement piece, and it looked like a good spot to be eroded/broken to make another gap. Next steps for this will be to go back after it's at least partially cured to tear up some of the edges (they're too smooth and rounded and putty-like right now), and to reestablish the border of the road (as some of the putty pieces squashed out over the line).

 

I intend to lightly paint the pavement pieces a dark grey, then give lighter-grey highlights via dry-brushing. At some point I may attempt some faint remainder of a center line, but that'll be very broken up. I plan to also include some junk alongside the road (a mashed truck hood, a fallen road sign, etc.) to further "brand" this for a Fallout setting piece.  I'm not going to likely use this for "generic fantasy" games, nor for a typical location in a modern Ghostbusters or superheroic game, so I don't mind going all-out on "Fallout branding" however I can fit that in, just as long as in the end the tile is still MOSTLY flat, so I can stack these things back in the box.

 

(Oh yeah.  Another nice thing about these tiles is that they come in a nice big box with some extra room and a plastic handle.  I may need to reinforce it with some duct tape, but I have some viable storage and transportation right from the get-go.)

 

 

19679197_10211599337091530_5272810887218

 

2017-07-07 #5: Transition Piece ... or Future Expansion.

 

I mixed up a bit more putty than I absolutely needed for the first board, so I used up the rest of it on the next board. I suppose I could leave it pretty much like this (just with some more painting) and treat this as a "transition" board from eroded roadway to open wasteland. That will really just depend on how much the remaining black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt holds out. (I'm scraping the bottom of the little plastic pail at this point, and I've got an uneven remaining amount of Part B to Part A, so it will probably take longer to fully cure.)  I don't envision myself buying another set of the messy stuff, and I also don't want to switch to "natural" gray midway through the project, as it'll get much harder to accomplish the same visual effect.  I'd really like THREE boards of "broken road" -- even if one of them has pretty sparse representation of pavement -- so if I run out, I may have to switch to the gray stuff anyway.

 

I'm deliberately trying not to cover up any of the "boulders" visible on the board.  Why destroy interesting detail?  However, I might repaint some of them darker to look like little bits of broken pavement, if it seems to make sense given their location.

 

P.S., the dribbles of water are just that: water.  I dunk my temporary texture stamps in water for each application, so the putty doesn't rip up and stick to the plastic.  I don't know if it's just my imagination, but the black-dyed putty seems to be worse about that than the "natural" grey epoxy putty.  (Or, probably, it's just a lot more VISIBLE when it does.  The plastic doesn't stay translucent white for very long after I've been working with the black-dyed stuff.)

 

  • Like 14

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That does look SPLENDID. As a fan of the Post Apocalypse setting & terrain in general, I'll follow your developments with interest.

It is always good to pick up a new way to skin the cat...so to speak.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slight progress over the weekend (as most of my effort was toward painting up some minis for next weekend's installment in my Iron Kingdoms campaign):

 

19884321_10211638930361337_1954580088488

 

For the freeway pieces, I scoured the last of the black-dyed putty from my old Apoxie Sculpt pails, and made little "pavement islands" for a heavily-eroded roadway.  I started running out, evidently, as the rightmost piece has ended up being a "transition piece."  While digging through my bits boxes for Fallout-appropriate road litter, I found a number of Bones "formerly integral" bases that had more of a shale-like look, and incorporated some of those onto the transition piece.  Some blended in better than others -- I may have to go back and shave some of those pieces down again, or just get more serious about it and mix up some of the "gray stuff" putty and simply paint it black and do whatever touch-up is necessary to make it blend in.

 

For the scrapyard pieces (three of them on top, out of a collection of 16 total) I included a few hoods, fenders, and grills, using some Instant Mold to get impressions from some toy cars (mostly 1:43 scale -- a 1950 Ford pickup and 1948 Woody -- but I had a 1:32 scale 1920s roadster that I got the grill impression from, and without context the piece looks fine to me in the scrapyard).  I painted a few of the pieces black before gluing them down, but the rest I just left putty-gray for a little variety.  (I'll be plastering them all with rusty paint and so forth, but I figure there's no reason to do everything the same way, if I want this scrapyard to look varied.)

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

19990242_10211638930321336_7640817055694

 

To paint the pavement, the black putty served well enough as the base.  I sloppy-painted all the tiles in Graphite Gray (dark cool gray), then went back and dry-brushed with Denim Blue (light gray-blue).  I tried freehand for the lines on the sides of the road (Graphite Gray for the outer, right-hand line, and Golden Yellow for the left, median line, with the implication that there's a median and then another two lanes going the opposite direction somewhere off the board) -- but it looks too thin and halfhearted.  For the center line, it was time to break out the masking tape.  My spacing isn't realistic (at least based on real-life examples in my area), in that I've got the 2-inch-long dashes separated by gaps of 2 inches (in real life there'd be a greater interval between the dashes, based on the examples I've seen), but I need an interval that'll match up across boards, and I mostly want to convey the IDEA of the center line.  (After all, my scales aren't realistic on most of the Plasticville O/S-scale buildings I'm using, but if everything were realistically scaled, I'd soon run out of table.)

 

19959294_10211638930401338_3709515543438

 

And here's where I am with the masking tape removed.  I was able to "recycle" the masking tape guide for all three freeway boards.  The lane may look a bit roomy with my 1:43 scale "Red Rocket" pickup modeling (and, yeah, I know, he's driving the wrong way -- but nobody's enforcing traffic laws anymore in the Wasteland).  However, once I put the Nuka-Cola Delivery Truck on the table, I'll be lucky if it manages to squeeze between the lanes.  Trucks in this universe get HUGE.  (And the roads in the Fallout games are ridiculously tiny.  I'd hate to try to drive anywhere in Fallout Pre-War Boston.)  Next, I think I'm going to go back and thicken the road-side markings to be more consistent with the center lines (which I think are about 1/4" wide, and 2" long).  Another thing I need to do is to put in some pieces of scrap plastic (where appropriate) to represent the reflective inserts in between the line dashes.  Fallout-universe roads appear to have those.

 

I slathered some Pumpkin Orange on several pieces of scrap, and dry-brushed on others, to start rusting things up. I plan on going back and forth with a splatter-brushing, stippling, dry-brushing, and washes on the scrapyard before I go in and do any serious detail work and cleanup.  Printed paper elements (fallen road signs by the road, signage in the scrapyard, discarded boxes, etc.) will wait until most of the sloppier painting is done.  Since I want to be able to stack these things (more or less), I'm trying to keep the thickness of any additions to a minimum, and to fit them into recessed areas when possible.

  • Like 13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, lowlylowlycook said:

Excellent work.  I have a sudden desire to so who make 28mm construction cones :lol:

 

Brilliant idea!  Hirst Arts Castlemolds "Factory Accessories Mold #331" has some construction cones as part of the set ... and I have a friend who HAS that mold (as part of his unfinished Robo-Rally board project), so maybe I can borrow it.  :)  I wouldn't glue them down here, but it'd make great scatter terrain.  (I wonder how I could make some passable "squashed" cones?  THAT might be something worth incorporating into the terrain, if it's flat enough.)

 

If this were a more sci-fi setting I might be able to get away with spare super glue caps.  (I keep those because I keep thinking, "Hey, this might be useful as a bit for something ... some day.")  Alas, in the Fallout games, construction cones are quite obviously just old style construction cones.  (War ... war never changes.  And apparently neither do a lot of other things in the Fallout universe, despite being in The Future.  ;)  )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/7/2017 at 2:26 PM, malefactus said:

 As a fan of the Post Apocalypse setting & terrain in general, I'll follow your developments with interest.

 

 

Ooo!  Do you perchance have any pictures of post-apocalyptic terrain projects posted?  I'd be very curious to see your take on the genre.  :)  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/11/2017 at 6:58 PM, Jordan Peacock said:

 

Ooo!  Do you perchance have any pictures of post-apocalyptic terrain projects posted?  I'd be very curious to see your take on the genre.  :)  

 

These are meant for my friend, Justin's 40K games. Page #1 is mostly desert style rock formations, but from page #2 on there are some some structures that might work as Post Apocalypse terrain:

 

 

...I did these a few years ago.

Edited by malefactus
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/13/2017 at 0:19 PM, malefactus said:

 

These are meant for my friend, Justin's 40K games. Page #1 is mostly desert style rock formations, but from page #2 on there are some some structures that might work as Post Apocalypse terrain:

 

 

Nice!  The desert-style rock formations would probably work well for parts of the Wasteland, but the rusty, oozing machinery and tanks could certainly be at home in a post-apocalyptic setting as well!  And, hmm, I must have seen at least part of that thread before, as I discovered that some of the pictures I was inclined to "Like" ... were instead marked with an option to "x Unlike" -- well!  We can't have THAT!  I must have liked them before and then, alas, forgotten about them.  :(  How sad!  I'll try to do a better job of remembering this time around.  :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, for the next steps, I want some more appliances and machines with a Fallout look for wreckage in the Scrapyard, and some wrecked cars for my Urban Streets and for my Rolling Hills wasteland highway.

 

For the cars -- I found a bunch of McDonald's Happy Meal "Pixar Cars" toys (circa 2006) for $5 including shipping, used.  Several of the Radiator Springs characters have a "retro" look that I think could work for Fallout (though Luigi is based off a 1959 car, and might be a little too late-era for the Fallout look without a bit of work).  

 

20232850_10211772444059096_1950668168373

 

Now, the cartoony mouths and big eyes don't fit the look at all, but fortunately most of the toys have a separate plastic piece inside that actually has the "eye" decals.  Minus that, I end up with something that could pass for a junked car missing the glass.  "Flo" (far left) is the easiest, I think, as the car only has a very tight "lip" to hint at a mouth, and that's easily enough filed off.  "Doc" (blue, second from right) is pretty easy, too, since the grill passes for a mouth, but the toy has a wind-up key on the side, and that'll require some surgery.  "Luigi" (yellow, far right) is more problematic, as there's some sort of hex-key bit sticking out from one hubcap, and then there's the sunroof that's been transformed into a ... toupee?  And then there's the grinning mouth.

 

Probably my biggest challenge would be with Ramone.  I guess it was cost-effective to have an insert for the windows on the other cars for the "eye" decals, but for Ramone, with the pin-striping on the paint jobs (yellow and purple cars, 2nd and 3rd from left) and the special decal-printing that would have required, perhaps it was an economic decision to just go ahead and make the windows part of the same body, and to print them.  Sadly, there's no contour at all to indicate the edges of the windows -- it's all printed.  I could try using a Dremel to cut out windows, but at this point I might be better off just trying to remove the whole roof-and-window area, and then either trying to build up the car as a convertible ... or else find some suitable piece of plastic that I could use to try to transform it into a retro-futuristic "bubble-top" car.  (Finding one that would fit would be bad enough; for bonus points, I need to find TWO.)

 

20264769_10211772444219100_2328700348720

 

The first real challenge, though, was that the screws had an odd triangular screw head -- and I had no matching tool to fit.  I suppose a tiny-enough Allen wrench might've done the job, but I didn't have any that small.  Fortunately, I discovered that I could use the tip of a pair of needle-nose pliers to accomplish enough of a proxy to remove the screws.

 

 

20374542_10211772444259101_4121535176516

 

Here's the interior of the "Flo" car, showing the gray plastic insert for the windows.  Once the car is opened up, the gray piece can be easily removed, since it's just slotted in place without any further screws or glue.  Alas, I can't remove the friction motor without losing the rear wheels.

 

 

20293085_10211772444979119_3497099715186

 

So, since I can see the car interiors now, I probably ought to put something inside.  I got out some Japanese "Plastic Clay" and some epoxy putty, and used a 1:43 scale toy car as a model for seats.

 

 

20369871_10211772445419130_5404294405361

 

And here's as far as I got with the cars this morning.  For "Flo," there's just enough room for two seats.  For the rear area, I put in some "greebles" that should be visible through the rear window.  The front seat area was pretty tight, so I didn't bother with a dashboard.  I used some putty to lock up the works of the friction engine and front wheels, and to make some blobs on the sides of the tires to suggest that they've gone flat.

 

For "Doc," it only had one set of free-turning wheels.  Apparently its little "gimmick" is that it could be wound up from the side, and then it would spin donuts -- the wind-up engine located in the center had a pair of hidden wheels, and then one third wheel running perpendicular: the rear "wheels" are just a couple of non-functional bumps on the undercarriage.  So, I was able to remove the wind-up engine entirely, and used putty to freeze up the front tires (to which I also applied some more putty to represent "flats").  I used putty to gap-fill the area on the door (and if it's not perfectly smooth ... it'll be a dented, rusty area anyway), and a couple of big holes in the floor.  This one was roomier inside, so it gets front seats, a dashboard, and a rear-seat "couch."

 

I still haven't sorted out a strategy for "Ramone."  It's likely to wait until I stumble across some vaguely bubble-like piece of plastic (I don't mind if it's cracked or scuffed) that could be the right size/shape for a roof -- or I get brave enough to try to tackle the windows with the Dremel.  "Luigi" might get a bit more work, but I'm toying with attaching some 40K bits to give it a new "grill" that might possibly make it look a little more early-50s in real-world aesthetic inspiration, if not necessarily that "futuristic."

 

For now, I'm opting NOT to go with base-coats.  I kind of like the colors already on them, and there's no way I'd be able to get such uniform coats on my own.  Rather, from here I think I'll try some painted rust spots, some "rub-in" grunge (e.g., dark grey paint, sloppily applied, then daubed off with a tissue, leaving some in the cracks), and dry-brushing.  I might try using some blister plastic for broken glass windows, but I'm not entirely sure how to solidly attach that, so I'm likely to just skip it (except, perhaps, for having some scraps of clear blister plastic "glass" permanently "lying" on the hood, seat, floorboard, etc., to hint at previous trauma).

 

 

 

 

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For more Scrapyard decor, I picked up some vending machines and a fridge.  (It was the fridge I was really looking for, but when I saw how suspiciously similar to Nuka-Cola vending machines these other pieces were, I had to look into them as well.)

 

20293154_10211772446299152_5915028448489

 

I got all three resin pieces from Mad Imp Miniatures, which seems to have some relation to Stone Skull Studios (who put out a 3D terrain prop Kickstarter some time ago).  Although the masters might be 3D printed, I didn't see any hint of scan lines, so that was either some really fine printing, or else someone took the trouble to file the surfaces smooth before making molds to cast resin.  Casting quality was pretty good -- I didn't notice any bubbles.

 

20292955_10211772446339153_7450756185536

 

The bottoms required a bit of shaving and filing, but that didn't take long.  The resin is hard, and can be filed down without too much trouble.  There were irregular seams across the sides, but for most of the surfaces, I could barely even tell -- and for those few cases where I could, it was on a flat surface, and thus easily filed and gap-filled.  (I took the picture above before the putty had completely hardened, so I didn't get to sanding it down smooth yet.)

 

In addition to using these pieces in their self-standing state, I plan on getting some Plastic Clay impressions of the "not-Nuka-Cola" vending machines so I can make some wrecked versions poking up from the piles of debris on the Scrapyard tiles.  (A few of my early experiments on that are actually partially visible in the background of some of my "Cars" WIP shots.)

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By SamuraiJack
      As seen at ReaperCon
       
       
       
      About this project
      This is my first set of TerraScapes.  I present to you a natural Caves & Grottos core set. With the full range of double sided modular tiles, you can quickly create ultra-realistic cavern scenarios for any of your spelunking adventures! If you've ever found yourself in a cave, you know how under represented they are in the games that we love to play. There is nothing linear about spelunking and caverns aren't flat! Caves are twisted sections of open air encased by cool moist rocky walls.  That's why I've coined this terrain as a Nonlinear Modular Terrain System, and it's a new way of dressing your Tabletop with functional, dynamic terrain for all your Tabletop RPG's!
      TerraScapes: Caves and Grottos strives to simulate natural terrain for optimal immersion and strategic playability. To maximize the possibilities every tile is double sided! This means that with every tile you get twice the possible play space! Both tops and bottoms of each tile can be used in your layouts!  Each tile is designed to work like a table where instead of legs, you have stalactites and large rocks. It allows you to stack them up however you want! This gives your layout real depth and introduces a whole new dimension for increased strategical encounters. Whether it's for your big boss battle, wargame or random encounter, everything you'll need for an endless tactical cavern layout comes with our set of Caves & Grottos!
      This video shows how to build an endless array of immersive caverns for your tabletop!
      What's in the Full Set?  I have a ton of tiles prototyped and ready for this campaign.  If everything is unlocked we will have 9 Core double-sided tiles, 3 exclusive large  double-sided KS tiles, 2 Rock Packs which include a total of 8 double-sided rocks and rock/well combinations, 2 sets of Stalactite risers containing a total of 4 risers, 3 double-sided flowstone/pit centerpieces and 4 packs of double-sided wall sections containing 8 wall sections.  This is everything you'll need to bring to life any dynamic cavern scenario that you could possibly dream up!  You can purchase any of these Packs of tiles or accessories as Add-ons as they are unlocked during this campaign by managing your pledge amount and adding their cost(s).  If you are bad with arithmetic, just send me a message and I'll give you hand personally!
      I know, I know...  I'm getting ahead of myself here!  When the campaign launches we'll only have the three tiles from Core Pack:A, and the exclusive KS:1 tiles available.  Whenever we unlock another Core Pack, I will also unlock another exclusive KS tile for you to snatch up!  I am fairly confident that we are going to smash through almost every stretch goal I have planned.
      Core Pack:A Random Layout with KS Tile:1  With the exception of the Stalac-Packs, note that every terrain piece in TerraScapes is double-sided. The following graphics depict both the tops and bottoms of every piece and are not separate pieces offered with the packs.  The sizes listed are in terms of tile height.  So a Size 2 piece is two tiles high.  A Size 3 piece is 3 tiles high.  
      Please Manage your Pledge if you would like to add-on any pieces.  A survey will be sent after the Kickstarter has concluded for you to list which add-ons and options (like paint schemes) you would like.  All shipping charges will be handled by a Third Party Pledge Manager after the Kickstarter as well.  You will have until December 1st, 2017 to update your Pledge using this Pledge Manager
      3 Core Pack:A tiles and the first Exclusive KS Tile:1 As each set of new tiles and accessories are unlocked we will journey deeper into what TerraScapes: Caves and Grottos has to offer any story.  During this campaign, your very pledges will move a group of adventurers through the deep, exploring the sets that you unlock.  Our heroes fate will depend upon your support!  When the campaign ends, our adventurers will either perish or succeed in escaping these deep Caves & Grottos! 
      Core Pack:A, KS Tile:1 and Rocks & Wells Pack:A  
      Rock & Wells Pack:A contains four Size 1 Risers  
      Stalac-Pack:A contains two Size 2 Risers  
       
      Core Pack:B Random Layout with KS Tile:2
    • By SamuraiJack
       
       
      About
      BASE SYSTEM ROOTS 
      When I moved from hex map to miniature rules gaming, I struggled to find any decent affordable scenery. 
      Thus I decided to make some myself. These were sold online under the name of Mechanized Designworks. I found many other people liked them. 
      This led to my decision to make an entire range accessible to the public through DFA, in the form of the BASE System. With your support DFA intends to create the largest range of affordable, high quality modular 6mm scale scenery and buildings. With your continued support, the range has scope to expand indefinitely.
      BASE System sections will be made from 3D printed design originals. Each section will be individually hand-finished before casting in resin, creating a high-quality finish suitable for your choice of model paint. 
      BASE SYSTEM CORE  
       BASE Systems are modular.  
      Example BASE System layout with stand-alone buildings There are many buildings, from stand-alone structures and themed sets, to totally modular sets that allow players to build a base as big or small as they wish. A host of new building designs and base layouts can be created by simply repositioning individual sections; while the same parts can be endlessly reconfigured to provide new vistas for each game.  
       
       
      If you're looking to build a small outpost or firebase or a big planetary command centre for your games, BASE has you covered. Best of all: because BASE System is modular, you can take it apart and redesign it when setting up your next game.  
      Infinite possibilities and configurations await with BASE.
      Example of a large BASE system layout using modular parts BASE SYSTEM VISUAL  
      BASE offers a uniform look and feel across sets in the range. 
      While each module in a set is interchangeable, it will still conform to the overall chosen appearance of your tabletop. In addition, you can make sets look entirely different, yet cohesive, with a few additional components in different paint livery.
      EVOLVING YOUR BASE SYSTEM  
      Start small and go large … or start big.  
      Example of a small BASE System layout The choice is yours. The BASE System is available in box sets and individual components. You can evolve your BASE System at your own speed by adding components or sets as and when it suits you. (To help get you started with this, you will also receive two of some buildings at specific pledge levels.)
      Fire Control and HQ buildings  
      The Repair Bay contains 2 rigs, allowing you to switch between closed and open during your games.  
      The Geodesic Dome will feature a clear resin casting,allowing you to create features inside the structure.  
      The Class A Interstellar Communications set is just the first modular BASE system we hope to produce.
    • By JGroeling
      This is a scale question. Specifically on the big guys in the back. When I had started roughing out the wireform and slapping a little base putty on them, I had the idea of Trolls in armor. Now that I'm looking at them compared to some reaper conversions, I'm thinking they might end up having to be giants, demons, or something else. What do you think would fit for those figs at the scale they are? Prefer DnD themes if you think Troll wouldnt work. Also, open to weird fantasy creatures as long as they fit the scale and are tall and wirey.    These aren't for any game/encounter in particular, I just enjoy making stuff. L to R,
      - WIP necromancer and ghouls I'd started scratchbuilding before they got shelved. Looking forward to getting back into those.
      - Big guys in back are undecided
      - An old barbarian conversion WIP from a reaper bones
      - Recent child scratchbuild - My warg rider conversion WIP from a Reaper Bones (which has it's own post here)
      - and I believe this was a Warhammer Chaos figure that I had added tentacles to an painted about a decade ago.


    • By JGroeling
      Last night in an insomnia fueled start on the painting, I got to laying some basecoats on this conversion. Then a few color layers on the ground and sticks as well as the wolf's fur. Still a lot of work ahead on this one. Wont be picking it up again for a few weeks though. Will update post then. 
       
      Original post in "Conversions" board (where you can see what I sculpted onto the Reaper Bones Warg)
       
       
       

    • By fanguad
      One of my players had to be difficult and create a bizarro character.  An Oread Cleric who uses a dire flail.  I finally got sick of using a prepaint earth elemental for him and converted this guy with bits I picked up in the Boneyard.  Zenithal priming plus some glazes took care of most of the cloth.  Metals, leathers and stone base got a base coat, wash and highlight.  All in all, 2-3 hours.
       
       


  • Who's Online   19 Members, 2 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×