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Jordan Peacock

Secret Weapon Miniatures - Tablescapes, Fallout Style

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I'm converting some Secret Weapon Miniatures "Tablescapes" terrain tiles to have a retro post-apocalyptic look for some Fallout-themed games for Necronomicon Science Fiction Convention - Tampa, FL (2017). My primary tools are some Japanese "plastic clay" and Apoxie Sculpt two-part epoxy putty.

(More information on the convention, in case y'all are down in Tampa, Florida in October and want to check out the game.  I'll be using a bunch of Reaper minis, too.  ;)  --> http://stonehill.org/necro.htm )

 

The "plastic clay" (pictured below) is pretty much the same stuff as Instant Mold in the US. It comes in ingots, and consists of a plastic with a low melting point, so I can boil a mug of water in the microwave for a couple of minutes, then dunk the plastic in the water, and it turns soft and pliable -- then, I get some pliers (mindful of the hot water!) and squash the plastic against a surface with a texture I'd like to "lift." Once it cools (a trip to the freezer can hasten this), I can peel off the plastic, and now I have a temporary press-mold -- and when I'm done, I can cut and re-melt it to use again.

 

Apoxie Sculpt is your basic epoxy putty (similar to Magic Sculpt, Magic Sculp {sic}, and a number of others), useful for press molds, solidifies over the course of few hours, and can be sanded down once completely hardened. It's much cheaper than "green stuff," but far inferior to the green stuff for especially fine detail (such as sculpting faces on 25-32mm scale minis).

 

So, my basic plan here is two-fold: for my Fallout (Savage Worlds) campaign, the unifying theme is that of a "road trip," so I want ROADS, and I need wrecked junkers along the way. There's no way I'm going to smash up this pretty O-scale truck I picked up, so instead my plan is to get impressions of the hood and grill, so I can add some '50s-ish car parts to my "Scrapyard" board, and a rusty hood and fallen road signs alongside a heavily eroded roadway through the wasteland. (I also posted photos of progress on converting Rolling Hills tiles into "wasteland eroded highway" in an album on my "wall," but I haven't figured out how to attach those here as well.)

 

I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm just making this up as I go along. I reserve the right to back up, chip off pieces of dried epoxy putty, repaint, and try again, if it doesn't go well. The HIPS Tablescapes tiles are pretty durable, and the deep details give me good anchor points to add some putty details, but I don't want to bulk them up overly much, or add too much weight, as that defeats the purpose of having these modular lightweight terrain tiles to cart to game stores or conventions.

 

 

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2017-07-07 Snapshot #1: Scrapyard Tile.  I didn't actually ACCOMPLISH anything on this particular tile this morning.  This is basically just to size up some of the stuff I'm working with.

 

My plan is to "Fallout-ize" this and some other Tablescapes tiles by introducing a few more "retro" elements to the details. In this case, I plan on using the Japanese "plastic clay" to make temporary texture molds off of the hood and grill of this 1:43 scale toy truck, so I can have a circa 1950s-ish truck grill amid the debris, and a hood alongside a broken road. Above is the "natural" Apoxie Sculpt (gray), which I'll be using for the faked truck parts, but I scraped the bottom of some cans of black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt for some of the next steps.  (As I said, I'm making this up as I go.)

 

 
 
 

 

 

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2017-07-07 Snapshot #2: Street Crack Textures.

 

First, I used some plastic clay to squash down on one of my "Urban Streets (Clean)" tiles to get impressions of some clusters of cracks represented on the surface, to make some temporary texture stamps.  The board up top is what I'm working on to make the tiles usable: spray-paint to give the street a bit of color, some pumpkin orange as "rust" for grates and grills, and several passes of dribbling brushes soaked with whatever crud was at the bottom of my paintbrush cup into the gutters and cracks in the hopes of it drying up and looking like detritus left after run-off.  Later on, I may try cramming little pieces of sprue painted up as tin cans, and wads of paper to suggest trash clogging the drains.  These particular street boards I want to look "cruddy" more than "post-apocalyptic," because I may get more use out of them for modern-day games.  I haven't yet decided on what to do for street markings.  Maybe an arbitrary cross-walk somewhere, and some dotted lines, and whatever signs of weathering I can do to make it interesting, but no fallen road signs or wrecked car parts or skulls in the gutters, or anything that TOO strongly brands this as "post-apoc."

 

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19679320_10211599334931476_1558338958233

 

2017-07-07 Snapshot #3: Eroded Road WIP.

 

I have a number of "Rolling Hills" tiles that I've painted up in browns and greys of the wasteland, but since my campaign has a "Road Trip" theme to it, I want a few desolate stretches of broken-up roadway. I have the remains of a set of black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt I picked up to experiment with, and the stuff is MESSY (because, well, it has black dye worked into the putty, and that gets into everything and is very hard to clean up). I've still got a bit left in the container, so I thought I'd finally work on using the last of it up.

 

Toward that end, I put several lumps of putty down on the textured surface, to try to get the impression of a road so neglected that cracks in it have formed, then the road has started wearing away. For the finished product, I hope to have 3 of these tiles done up, and to have some bits of wreckage by the sides, and other setting clues. If it turns out that later on I need "plain" wasteland tiles, I can always pry the putty back off again afterward, and repaint it.

 

 

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2017-07-07 #4: Eroded Road with Initial Texturing.

 

I used the plastic clay "texture stamps" from Snapshot #2 to smash out the wads of epoxy putty and to -- I hope -- squash out any fingerprints left on them. (Some folks really gripe if they see a hint of a fingerprint on any of my putty projects.)

 

I used a dull hobby knife to tear a few crack "deltas" out - areas where a crack met the edge of a pavement piece, and it looked like a good spot to be eroded/broken to make another gap. Next steps for this will be to go back after it's at least partially cured to tear up some of the edges (they're too smooth and rounded and putty-like right now), and to reestablish the border of the road (as some of the putty pieces squashed out over the line).

 

I intend to lightly paint the pavement pieces a dark grey, then give lighter-grey highlights via dry-brushing. At some point I may attempt some faint remainder of a center line, but that'll be very broken up. I plan to also include some junk alongside the road (a mashed truck hood, a fallen road sign, etc.) to further "brand" this for a Fallout setting piece.  I'm not going to likely use this for "generic fantasy" games, nor for a typical location in a modern Ghostbusters or superheroic game, so I don't mind going all-out on "Fallout branding" however I can fit that in, just as long as in the end the tile is still MOSTLY flat, so I can stack these things back in the box.

 

(Oh yeah.  Another nice thing about these tiles is that they come in a nice big box with some extra room and a plastic handle.  I may need to reinforce it with some duct tape, but I have some viable storage and transportation right from the get-go.)

 

 

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2017-07-07 #5: Transition Piece ... or Future Expansion.

 

I mixed up a bit more putty than I absolutely needed for the first board, so I used up the rest of it on the next board. I suppose I could leave it pretty much like this (just with some more painting) and treat this as a "transition" board from eroded roadway to open wasteland. That will really just depend on how much the remaining black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt holds out. (I'm scraping the bottom of the little plastic pail at this point, and I've got an uneven remaining amount of Part B to Part A, so it will probably take longer to fully cure.)  I don't envision myself buying another set of the messy stuff, and I also don't want to switch to "natural" gray midway through the project, as it'll get much harder to accomplish the same visual effect.  I'd really like THREE boards of "broken road" -- even if one of them has pretty sparse representation of pavement -- so if I run out, I may have to switch to the gray stuff anyway.

 

I'm deliberately trying not to cover up any of the "boulders" visible on the board.  Why destroy interesting detail?  However, I might repaint some of them darker to look like little bits of broken pavement, if it seems to make sense given their location.

 

P.S., the dribbles of water are just that: water.  I dunk my temporary texture stamps in water for each application, so the putty doesn't rip up and stick to the plastic.  I don't know if it's just my imagination, but the black-dyed putty seems to be worse about that than the "natural" grey epoxy putty.  (Or, probably, it's just a lot more VISIBLE when it does.  The plastic doesn't stay translucent white for very long after I've been working with the black-dyed stuff.)

 

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That does look SPLENDID. As a fan of the Post Apocalypse setting & terrain in general, I'll follow your developments with interest.

It is always good to pick up a new way to skin the cat...so to speak.

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Slight progress over the weekend (as most of my effort was toward painting up some minis for next weekend's installment in my Iron Kingdoms campaign):

 

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For the freeway pieces, I scoured the last of the black-dyed putty from my old Apoxie Sculpt pails, and made little "pavement islands" for a heavily-eroded roadway.  I started running out, evidently, as the rightmost piece has ended up being a "transition piece."  While digging through my bits boxes for Fallout-appropriate road litter, I found a number of Bones "formerly integral" bases that had more of a shale-like look, and incorporated some of those onto the transition piece.  Some blended in better than others -- I may have to go back and shave some of those pieces down again, or just get more serious about it and mix up some of the "gray stuff" putty and simply paint it black and do whatever touch-up is necessary to make it blend in.

 

For the scrapyard pieces (three of them on top, out of a collection of 16 total) I included a few hoods, fenders, and grills, using some Instant Mold to get impressions from some toy cars (mostly 1:43 scale -- a 1950 Ford pickup and 1948 Woody -- but I had a 1:32 scale 1920s roadster that I got the grill impression from, and without context the piece looks fine to me in the scrapyard).  I painted a few of the pieces black before gluing them down, but the rest I just left putty-gray for a little variety.  (I'll be plastering them all with rusty paint and so forth, but I figure there's no reason to do everything the same way, if I want this scrapyard to look varied.)

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19990242_10211638930321336_7640817055694

 

To paint the pavement, the black putty served well enough as the base.  I sloppy-painted all the tiles in Graphite Gray (dark cool gray), then went back and dry-brushed with Denim Blue (light gray-blue).  I tried freehand for the lines on the sides of the road (Graphite Gray for the outer, right-hand line, and Golden Yellow for the left, median line, with the implication that there's a median and then another two lanes going the opposite direction somewhere off the board) -- but it looks too thin and halfhearted.  For the center line, it was time to break out the masking tape.  My spacing isn't realistic (at least based on real-life examples in my area), in that I've got the 2-inch-long dashes separated by gaps of 2 inches (in real life there'd be a greater interval between the dashes, based on the examples I've seen), but I need an interval that'll match up across boards, and I mostly want to convey the IDEA of the center line.  (After all, my scales aren't realistic on most of the Plasticville O/S-scale buildings I'm using, but if everything were realistically scaled, I'd soon run out of table.)

 

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And here's where I am with the masking tape removed.  I was able to "recycle" the masking tape guide for all three freeway boards.  The lane may look a bit roomy with my 1:43 scale "Red Rocket" pickup modeling (and, yeah, I know, he's driving the wrong way -- but nobody's enforcing traffic laws anymore in the Wasteland).  However, once I put the Nuka-Cola Delivery Truck on the table, I'll be lucky if it manages to squeeze between the lanes.  Trucks in this universe get HUGE.  (And the roads in the Fallout games are ridiculously tiny.  I'd hate to try to drive anywhere in Fallout Pre-War Boston.)  Next, I think I'm going to go back and thicken the road-side markings to be more consistent with the center lines (which I think are about 1/4" wide, and 2" long).  Another thing I need to do is to put in some pieces of scrap plastic (where appropriate) to represent the reflective inserts in between the line dashes.  Fallout-universe roads appear to have those.

 

I slathered some Pumpkin Orange on several pieces of scrap, and dry-brushed on others, to start rusting things up. I plan on going back and forth with a splatter-brushing, stippling, dry-brushing, and washes on the scrapyard before I go in and do any serious detail work and cleanup.  Printed paper elements (fallen road signs by the road, signage in the scrapyard, discarded boxes, etc.) will wait until most of the sloppier painting is done.  Since I want to be able to stack these things (more or less), I'm trying to keep the thickness of any additions to a minimum, and to fit them into recessed areas when possible.

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1 hour ago, lowlylowlycook said:

Excellent work.  I have a sudden desire to so who make 28mm construction cones :lol:

 

Brilliant idea!  Hirst Arts Castlemolds "Factory Accessories Mold #331" has some construction cones as part of the set ... and I have a friend who HAS that mold (as part of his unfinished Robo-Rally board project), so maybe I can borrow it.  :)  I wouldn't glue them down here, but it'd make great scatter terrain.  (I wonder how I could make some passable "squashed" cones?  THAT might be something worth incorporating into the terrain, if it's flat enough.)

 

If this were a more sci-fi setting I might be able to get away with spare super glue caps.  (I keep those because I keep thinking, "Hey, this might be useful as a bit for something ... some day.")  Alas, in the Fallout games, construction cones are quite obviously just old style construction cones.  (War ... war never changes.  And apparently neither do a lot of other things in the Fallout universe, despite being in The Future.  ;)  )

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On 7/7/2017 at 2:26 PM, malefactus said:

 As a fan of the Post Apocalypse setting & terrain in general, I'll follow your developments with interest.

 

 

Ooo!  Do you perchance have any pictures of post-apocalyptic terrain projects posted?  I'd be very curious to see your take on the genre.  :)  

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On 7/11/2017 at 6:58 PM, Jordan Peacock said:

 

Ooo!  Do you perchance have any pictures of post-apocalyptic terrain projects posted?  I'd be very curious to see your take on the genre.  :)  

 

These are meant for my friend, Justin's 40K games. Page #1 is mostly desert style rock formations, but from page #2 on there are some some structures that might work as Post Apocalypse terrain:

 

 

...I did these a few years ago.

Edited by malefactus
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On 7/13/2017 at 0:19 PM, malefactus said:

 

These are meant for my friend, Justin's 40K games. Page #1 is mostly desert style rock formations, but from page #2 on there are some some structures that might work as Post Apocalypse terrain:

 

 

Nice!  The desert-style rock formations would probably work well for parts of the Wasteland, but the rusty, oozing machinery and tanks could certainly be at home in a post-apocalyptic setting as well!  And, hmm, I must have seen at least part of that thread before, as I discovered that some of the pictures I was inclined to "Like" ... were instead marked with an option to "x Unlike" -- well!  We can't have THAT!  I must have liked them before and then, alas, forgotten about them.  :(  How sad!  I'll try to do a better job of remembering this time around.  :)

 

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Okay, for the next steps, I want some more appliances and machines with a Fallout look for wreckage in the Scrapyard, and some wrecked cars for my Urban Streets and for my Rolling Hills wasteland highway.

 

For the cars -- I found a bunch of McDonald's Happy Meal "Pixar Cars" toys (circa 2006) for $5 including shipping, used.  Several of the Radiator Springs characters have a "retro" look that I think could work for Fallout (though Luigi is based off a 1959 car, and might be a little too late-era for the Fallout look without a bit of work).  

 

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Now, the cartoony mouths and big eyes don't fit the look at all, but fortunately most of the toys have a separate plastic piece inside that actually has the "eye" decals.  Minus that, I end up with something that could pass for a junked car missing the glass.  "Flo" (far left) is the easiest, I think, as the car only has a very tight "lip" to hint at a mouth, and that's easily enough filed off.  "Doc" (blue, second from right) is pretty easy, too, since the grill passes for a mouth, but the toy has a wind-up key on the side, and that'll require some surgery.  "Luigi" (yellow, far right) is more problematic, as there's some sort of hex-key bit sticking out from one hubcap, and then there's the sunroof that's been transformed into a ... toupee?  And then there's the grinning mouth.

 

Probably my biggest challenge would be with Ramone.  I guess it was cost-effective to have an insert for the windows on the other cars for the "eye" decals, but for Ramone, with the pin-striping on the paint jobs (yellow and purple cars, 2nd and 3rd from left) and the special decal-printing that would have required, perhaps it was an economic decision to just go ahead and make the windows part of the same body, and to print them.  Sadly, there's no contour at all to indicate the edges of the windows -- it's all printed.  I could try using a Dremel to cut out windows, but at this point I might be better off just trying to remove the whole roof-and-window area, and then either trying to build up the car as a convertible ... or else find some suitable piece of plastic that I could use to try to transform it into a retro-futuristic "bubble-top" car.  (Finding one that would fit would be bad enough; for bonus points, I need to find TWO.)

 

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The first real challenge, though, was that the screws had an odd triangular screw head -- and I had no matching tool to fit.  I suppose a tiny-enough Allen wrench might've done the job, but I didn't have any that small.  Fortunately, I discovered that I could use the tip of a pair of needle-nose pliers to accomplish enough of a proxy to remove the screws.

 

 

20374542_10211772444259101_4121535176516

 

Here's the interior of the "Flo" car, showing the gray plastic insert for the windows.  Once the car is opened up, the gray piece can be easily removed, since it's just slotted in place without any further screws or glue.  Alas, I can't remove the friction motor without losing the rear wheels.

 

 

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So, since I can see the car interiors now, I probably ought to put something inside.  I got out some Japanese "Plastic Clay" and some epoxy putty, and used a 1:43 scale toy car as a model for seats.

 

 

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And here's as far as I got with the cars this morning.  For "Flo," there's just enough room for two seats.  For the rear area, I put in some "greebles" that should be visible through the rear window.  The front seat area was pretty tight, so I didn't bother with a dashboard.  I used some putty to lock up the works of the friction engine and front wheels, and to make some blobs on the sides of the tires to suggest that they've gone flat.

 

For "Doc," it only had one set of free-turning wheels.  Apparently its little "gimmick" is that it could be wound up from the side, and then it would spin donuts -- the wind-up engine located in the center had a pair of hidden wheels, and then one third wheel running perpendicular: the rear "wheels" are just a couple of non-functional bumps on the undercarriage.  So, I was able to remove the wind-up engine entirely, and used putty to freeze up the front tires (to which I also applied some more putty to represent "flats").  I used putty to gap-fill the area on the door (and if it's not perfectly smooth ... it'll be a dented, rusty area anyway), and a couple of big holes in the floor.  This one was roomier inside, so it gets front seats, a dashboard, and a rear-seat "couch."

 

I still haven't sorted out a strategy for "Ramone."  It's likely to wait until I stumble across some vaguely bubble-like piece of plastic (I don't mind if it's cracked or scuffed) that could be the right size/shape for a roof -- or I get brave enough to try to tackle the windows with the Dremel.  "Luigi" might get a bit more work, but I'm toying with attaching some 40K bits to give it a new "grill" that might possibly make it look a little more early-50s in real-world aesthetic inspiration, if not necessarily that "futuristic."

 

For now, I'm opting NOT to go with base-coats.  I kind of like the colors already on them, and there's no way I'd be able to get such uniform coats on my own.  Rather, from here I think I'll try some painted rust spots, some "rub-in" grunge (e.g., dark grey paint, sloppily applied, then daubed off with a tissue, leaving some in the cracks), and dry-brushing.  I might try using some blister plastic for broken glass windows, but I'm not entirely sure how to solidly attach that, so I'm likely to just skip it (except, perhaps, for having some scraps of clear blister plastic "glass" permanently "lying" on the hood, seat, floorboard, etc., to hint at previous trauma).

 

 

 

 

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For more Scrapyard decor, I picked up some vending machines and a fridge.  (It was the fridge I was really looking for, but when I saw how suspiciously similar to Nuka-Cola vending machines these other pieces were, I had to look into them as well.)

 

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I got all three resin pieces from Mad Imp Miniatures, which seems to have some relation to Stone Skull Studios (who put out a 3D terrain prop Kickstarter some time ago).  Although the masters might be 3D printed, I didn't see any hint of scan lines, so that was either some really fine printing, or else someone took the trouble to file the surfaces smooth before making molds to cast resin.  Casting quality was pretty good -- I didn't notice any bubbles.

 

20292955_10211772446339153_7450756185536

 

The bottoms required a bit of shaving and filing, but that didn't take long.  The resin is hard, and can be filed down without too much trouble.  There were irregular seams across the sides, but for most of the surfaces, I could barely even tell -- and for those few cases where I could, it was on a flat surface, and thus easily filed and gap-filled.  (I took the picture above before the putty had completely hardened, so I didn't get to sanding it down smooth yet.)

 

In addition to using these pieces in their self-standing state, I plan on getting some Plastic Clay impressions of the "not-Nuka-Cola" vending machines so I can make some wrecked versions poking up from the piles of debris on the Scrapyard tiles.  (A few of my early experiments on that are actually partially visible in the background of some of my "Cars" WIP shots.)

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      For reference, here is the miniature as it comes from the factory:
       

       
      The first step was to remove both the dagger and the burning flask and make way for his new weapons.  Rather than dig around in my parts bin for a matching set of new hands or sculpting a pair from scratch, I decided to simply bore out the existing hands and carve away all the pewter I didn't need and shape it to fit his new weapons.  My character uses a shield in his offhand in melee combat, so to reflect this I also cut away the front two flasks on his belt to make room for a shield which will be hung there.
       

       
      Next, I dug around in my parts bin for some suitable weapons.  I found an appropriately aggressive looking sword blade which was orphaned from its moorings, however after trimming away a portion of the lower half and rounding it out with a file I created a shaft for it which easily fit inside the hole I had drilled in his hand.  I like my figures to have appropriately shaped scabbards for their weapons, so I traced out the outline of the blade onto a sheet of styrene and cut it out as a starting point for making him a matching scabbard.
       

       
      Next, I selected and appropriate bow and quiver.  I also dug out a small shield, as my character uses a shield in his the offhand in melee combat.  I drilled and pinned the quiver so that it can be mounted on his back where the figure's original sword would have gone.
       

       
      After test fitting the shield, I came to the conclusion that it just didn't sit very well on the front of his belt.  So to cover up the damage I did earlier I simply sculpted a satchel where the flasks used to be.  I thought about cutting off the empty dagger sheath from the original figure and replacing it with a completely new dagger, however instead I simply sculpted a small nub at the top and called it a day.  The idea was that the dagger fits almost entirely inside the sheath itself, much like a dark age Seax or a traditional Finnish hunting knife.  At this point I've also drilled and pinned his feet in preparation for basing.  I've also tweaked the shape of his right hand by filing and carving it a bit more so that it closely fits around the handle of the bow I picked out for him.
       

       
      Next, I created a base using a very handy texture stamp made by Happy Seppuku.  Our campaign takes place in a rather wintery sort of place, so I will go back later and add some small piles of snow to reflect this.
       

       
      In an attempt to mirror the design aesthetic of his dagger sheath, I sculpted the sword scabbard to match with a raised bulge on top of a flatted base.  I left it otherwise plain, as I intend to hang the shield on top of the scabbard much like a medieval buckler. 
       
       
       
      Next, I flattened out the nub of his sword with a pair of smooth nosed pliers to create a rough disk shape to serve as the basis for a pommel.  I also sculpted a flap on top of his satchel.
       

       
      I then sculpted a fairly basic hilt, using a combination of styles mixing a "viking" type crossguard with a later medieval style disk pommel with a peen block.  I also sculpted a small throat around the top of the scabbard to suggest that it is actually hollow on the inside
       

       
      After test fitting the buckler, I realized that a portion of the scabbard was just barely visible underneath.  It was probably overkill, but I sculpted a rudimentary belt attachment to fill this gap (because I'm weird that way and can't let things like this go).  I then went ahead and glued the shield in place.
       

       
      I then glued the bow into his hand and glued the quiver on his back.  I had filed out the opening in his left hand specifically to fit the bow I had chosen for him, so it didn't take much to get it to fit snugly in place.  The bottom end of the bow rests directly against the lower part of the figure's clothing, which serves as a useful second anchor point for glueing (he is a tabletop figure after all).
       

       
      For the final step, I took the last bits of putty I had mixed and put them in little piles on his base, which I then stippled to make them look like little piles of snow.  Next up is painting!
       


    • By JGroeling
      Recently finished this for @Kangaroorex had a lot of fun playing with the spring theme and a monster. Also first time I've tried to build a flower (wire with paper wrapping for leaves, heavier paper for flower itself, and magicsculpt for some of the other details).
       
      Mama Werecroc with baby Croc, watering a swampflower. 


    • By SamuraiJack
      About this project
      The Story
      Hello again from Munchkin Metropolis!  This time around I'm targeting all of you Roleplay Gamers!  With my DIY Dungeon Kit you can now take your game nights to a whole new level.  Being able to customize your dungeons into the format you want makes being a game master so much more fun!  Below you'll see the Base Set that includes the 4 most popular sets, plus the Stretch Goal Furniture Set.  The miniatures pictured are not included in your reward (I just wanted to show how I personally utilize this setup)...Other than that, the picture is exactly what you'll receive. 
      Too Much Information
      I've recently been to the Doc and have been placed on a very strict diet and workout regimen (Working out isn't that strict, it's just 30min of light cardio daily).  But he told me not to do anything overly physical, which for a woodworker means I can't really work.  So, to save my heart and keep my business afloat, I've chosen a campaign that utilizes the laser for 80% of the work...with the remaining 20% being light physical duty.
      Due to the sheer weight of these items, I've worked to minimize the cost on materials and labor as much as possible.   The base set weighs almost 15lb and will ship in a 12x12x6 corrugated box.  Making each set is 8 hours of laser time and about 2 hours physical labor (Which is why I set the delivery date 2 months out instead of 1...but for you early backers, expect me to start shipping rewards within a week of the campaign ending.)  Mostly, I wanted to GUARANTEE delivery before Christmas.  By setting it to October, I will have plenty of time to handle anything that comes up. 
      The base set already includes the 4 most popular Expansions and will make an AWESOME Christmas Gift!  
      The floor pieces are designed so that you can expand into infinity to make those LARGE scale battle zones.  
      You'll choose either 1 or 2 inch per expansion. Each Wall Expansion is designed to be as versatile as your campaign!  
      A Base Set ready to ship (The Furniture Set is in the bag)  
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rwgdesign/the-do-it-yourself-dungeon-kit
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