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    • By Schirf
      Ok, here is my first NMM paint job. I'm not sure if I dislike the technique, or just picked a bad mini to try it on first. I found it a bit fiddly and frustrating with all of the dully cast spikey bits. I did a pretty quick TT quality job on everything not NMM, so I know there are a lot of places to improve there. 
      Also, I feel like the photos make it look better than it really is. I'm pretty happy with how the front of the armor turned out, but the shield and shoulder pauldrons were frustrating.





      Would truly appreciate any feedback on improving the quality of my NMM!
      I'll be doing Mangu next and tracking in the same WIP thread.
      Wip thread here:
    • By bailey03
      This past weekend I started painting Brom, the 54mm scale dwarf from Enigma. The sculpt has got a mix of equipment and, to be honest, I'm not even sure what all of it is. It gives him a lot of character, but presents some challenges with the painting. I've been putting a lot of thought into how I want to approach the piece and finally decided to pick a color scheme and let that tie the figure together.
      I started with the face. Considering most of it is hidden by the hair, the beard feels almost as important as the rest of the face.  I used a mix of Reaper's Ruddy Leather, Secret Weapon's Orange Rust, and Reaper's Burnt Orange and Fair Skin Highlight.  I find the light skin tones are nice for highlighting hair, I'd do the same with brown hair.  For the blood stained cloth on his head, I used a mix of Carnage Red and Walnut Brown.  I wanted it to be darker near the center, so more brown, and the moving to pure red near the boundaries.  I applied the red as a glaze over the white cloth to give it the right look.  Instead of using the well palette that I'd normally turn to for glazes, I ended up mixing them directly on my wet palette.  Normally that produces a mess, but I used a bit of paint and then added a bunch of matte medium (plus a little water).  The matte medium is thick, so it creates the right transparency without causing the glaze to flow all over the palette.  Then I then it down slightly with water for a consistency that's easier to paint with.  The effect is the same as a regular glaze, but since it's on the wet palette it's easier for me to mix paints and create different colored glazes.  It's also easy to vary the consistency/transparency by changing up the ratio of matte medium and paint.  So I can quickly make a section more opaque and another more transparent.  Not something I do for all glazes, for in situations like this it's a nice option to have in my tool kit.

      And here's the full figure.  Still a lot left to paint!

    • By KruleBear
      This guy was always intended to be toy box level painted. Basecoat, dry/damp brushing, and a light wash of Army painter mid-tone. But I actually really like the way he turned out.

    • By KruleBear
      I was using this to try a different skin color which I like and I believe I was going to do a bit more detailed TMM but got side tracked. After several months of no work on him, I decided to get him "done" to tabletop level. Here are some shaky iPad photos. C&C welcome. 

    • By KruleBear
      This guy was to experiment on achieving realistic light colors on a fairly smooth surface (the apron in this case). After several different tries I was happy with the result...then like normal he sat on the paint desk for months. So I decided to finish him to low tabletop level and wash him in ArmyPainters midtone shade which led to a big tied mark. But he is good enough for my sons toy box. C&C appreciated.

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