19 posts in this topic
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Wow I feel really outclassed here but I've gotta start somewhere...
Painted these for a friend's birthday, it was several months past his birthday when I finished, lol. Unfortunately before I could properly finish he had to move so I had to rush and couldn't do as much as I'd like. A lot of bases remained unpainted, and some touch ups on some of the skintones that I was planning on doing after had to be left as they were.
Not sure how many I can fit before it starts flagging me as spam so I'm just gonna show a photo of all of them, and then some of the monsters. They're the ones I'm most satisfied with.
Blood Rage Base Game all painted minis
Whew. I finished him. I have to say, this was a fun project. The idea came to me sometime last year, but it took awhile for me to get around to working on him. I've decided that monochrome relaxes me. It's just easier somehow to take color out of the picture and just work on shadows and highlights. I think I need to vary my levels a bit, but overall, I wanted it to read as a night scene, so I'm happy. I like the idea of an accent color. I've been wanting to try that for awhile now. Though looking at him, I could probably pop the osl on his face. the pumpkin in the back worked out better- most likely because it has larger opening for the eyes. I tried to find his sku number in the catalog and failed, but this was The Headless Mousling from 2014, sculpted by Gene Van Horne.I used a bones rat, a pillar from the graveyard set, and 2 pumpkins. Anyway, enjoy and Happy Halloween! I'm using my new Iphone and seem to have issues editing, so pics may be a bit funky...
In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
By John Fiala
So, here's one I tripped over on Kickstarter:
Basically, someone's doing miniatures... which didn't really grab me, until I saw the one for Edgar Allen Poe. I'm from Baltimore, so I have to get that one. And there's an HP Lovecraft, and some other cool stuff. What do others think?
The Deck of Many is a series of 5e reference cards for Monsters, NPCs, Conditions and Weapons.
The Deck of Many is a tool used to assist Game Masters in their role-playing campaigns, freeing them from traditional reference books and allowing them to only bring the references they need. Each card features original artwork and easy to reference information. Should we be successful, all funds raised from this campaign will go towards producing the 4 decks and other campaign rewards.
Starting price: $16 for your choice of 1 deck including shipping to U.S & CAN
Who's Online 21 Members, 3 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)