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My name is Andy, and I've been building miniature fantasy terrain since the 1980s. I have used my hand-made magnetic modular terrain for Dungeon Escape and Legendary Arena Battles at Eye of the Beholder Gaming Guild in Taylor, MI. My prototype pieces are on display at Acropolis Games in Adrian, and Get Your Game On in Ann Arbor. Many players have asked how they can take home magnetic terrain pieces to continue their adventure at home.
I use Hirst Arts blocks (I am a fully licensed Hirst Arts dealer). The process is fun... but painfully slow, as each block must be cast individually, then glued together. To save time and effort, I've began making molds of ENTIRE ROOMS, so that they can be cast AS ONE SINGLE SOLID PIECE with no glueing. Instead of using delicate, breakable plaster, I have been casting using 57D Resin, with enormous success. Instead of building a room in several days, I pour the resin in the mold, and its finished in two minutes. I can cast the entire 29 piece dungeon in one hour. What took me weeks before, now takes only an afternoon.
The 57D Resin is urethane rubber. It is slightly flexible, making it shatter-proof. The rooms can be dropped, and they will remain literally undamaged. No more chipping, cracking, or breaking! Say goodbye to handling delicate pieces. Since they come right out of the mold looking like granite, there is no paint to chip away or rub off. However, the material is paintable, should you choose to add your own dry-brush. Colors available are: Black Onyx, Black Granite, OrcSkin Gray, Gray Granite, White, White Granite, Frost, and Glow in the Dark.
There is no glue involved in any of the pieces.
The magnets are EMBEDDED directly inside the walls during the molding process, and cannot come loose, break off, or become lost. That makes our terrain suitable for kids of any age. Every terrain piece "snaps" together.
Players who already own Dwarven Forge sets will enjoy the fact that DrakenStone terrain meets up perfectly with their existing sets, making it the perfect compliment. The playing surface is exactly the same height, and the squares are exactly the same size as Dwarven Forge.
Please join us for a D&D 5E PVP one-shot game "Dungeon Escape", played Monday nights at 7pm, at Eye of the Beholder Gaming Guild, 12345 Telegraph Road, Taylor, MI. See the terrain being used in a real game. Or, watch us live on Facebook.
Risks and challenges
I have already created all the molds. I have already purchased the magnets in bulk. The last step is purchasing the 57D Resin. In pint-sized and gallon-sized units, the cost is very expansive... making the sale of sets to the public prohibitively expansive. However, in a 5-gallon, or even a 55-gallon drum, the cost of the resin is considerably less. Obtaining this bulk quantity of materials will keep the finished castle pieces at a low cost to customers. A 55-gallon drum of the 57D Resin costs $1,000.
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By Lidless Eye
Here's my work on the "Tablescapes Dungeons-Mines" set from Secret Weapon Miniatures.
The Goblins are all from "The Hobbit: Escape from Goblin Town" set, and the Dwarves are mixed manufacturer. I just wanted to give it a little character...or some little characters.
The next project should be a bit easier than the ships. Have brought 3 boxes of cardboard letters from Aldi. They are on sale and were part of their middle isle wedding stationery promotion. They spell "L OV E" not "F I R S T T R Y".
The idea is to make a temple wall complex/ set of sewer walls / set of docks.
When stacked together these are 5cm high, 20cm long and 15cm wide. I wanted some terrain that was modular, stackable, and tall enough to block line of site. Also that models could be pushed off.
I cut and stuck the L and the E together to make a "C" shaped Dock. Greenstuff rollers (bricks, and Ancestral Recall) applied to 5mm foam stuck to the walls and floor. There will be a grate in the bottom of one wall. Painting will just be black or brown mod podge then dry brushing. I am going to try and add some vines/flock/green weathering.
Am then going to make a series of arches out of the "O" letters. The middle of the O is the perfect size for a single based 28mm model.
The "V" will either be a redoubt or turned into straight walls with some waste.
A ground-breaking tabletop building system, made of durable, highly detailed, precise laser cut MDF and grey board. All buildings come ready to use, no glue required. THIS IS NOT A KIT!
This unique system for 28mm tabletop games and RPG's uses strong earth magnets to attach the building exteriors (skins) to a base box.
Construction couldn't be simpler! The magnetic system means the buildings can be easily and quickly assembled, disassembled and reassembled over and over in various combinations.
PLAY Not only can you change skins to create different building combinations from within a range, you can also select skins from other ranges depending on the game or period you wish to play. This cross-game terrain system means you can build a Wild West town one evening, then just by changing the skins on the base box, a fantasy village for a wargame the next.
PLAY All skins are pre-assembled and designed to flat-pack away. This makes transportation much easier and considerably cuts down storage needed, keeping everyone happy.
What's more, your base box can be used as storage for your figures and other gaming elements, such as dice and tokens.
I'll edit this once I switch from my phone to my PC.
OK, I got these just last week but I wanted to use them at the Origins Game Fair in Columbus, OH, June 14-17, so I got to work the day they arrived and started washing them with dish soap and hot water. I couldn't wait for them to dry so I started designing the layout while they were still wet!
Next day I glued them in place. They are mounted on expanded foam insulation, this particular brand comes in 1/2 inch thickness, 14.5 by 48 inches. It is used to go between 2x4 wall studs, hence the odd width. Any way, it a good size for modular gaming terrain once cut down to 24 inches and doubled up. I used Gorilla brand glue to attache the tiles to the substrate; I knew PVA (Elmers) glue would not stick well to the PVC tiles from trying it on Reaper Bones, and CA (Superglue) glue does not play nice with expanded foam. The Gorilla glue I used dried white; it looks strange against the gray tiles, but as it was all getting painted anyway it did not matter. Two properties of Gorilla glue I had forgotten worked in my favor. First, it requires a little moisture to cure, and so it didn't matter the tiles were not entirely dry after one day. I also used a sponge to dampen the flat underside of all the tiles. Second the glue expands! The tiles don't fit together well and have a lot of gaps, so the expanding glue helped fill in those gaps. I had to go back later and trim some of the excess glue but that was easy with a hobby knife. By the way you might want to use gloves if you're using Gorilla glue; it sticks to skin pretty well, too.
After another day of drying I first painted all the exposed foam with black craft paint to protect it from the next step. I then sprayed the piece with Army Painted black primer; the solvents in most spray paints will dissolve expanded foam, and indeed some on this piece was pockmarked even though it was covered in acrylic paint first. After a few hours I then applied the first, heavy "damp" brush of a slate gray interior household paint I picked up on the clearance "oops" rack at Walmart. I used this kind of cheap interior paint to base coat my terrain; it's cheap and durable, but it takes longer to dry and does not cover as well if not applied heavily. Hence the "damp" brush instead of a true dry brush. Once that was cured I followed up with some dry brushed dolphin gray craft paint. I then used Reaper brown wash to paint all the wood and metal rails. I lightly stippled the rails with some silver paint and then did a second, lighter dry brush with the dolphin gray. The next day I mixed some black and brown craft paint and made a wash, and used some Reaper Red, Green and Blue liners to add some variation to the stone. Once all that dried I then applied a final, very light dry brush of a cream color.
There is more I'd like to do to this piece, like add some lighting and the mine carts that came with the SW KS reward, and filling in some more gaps in the walls, but I think this will do for now. And I have almost half of my reward left yet for another piece.
I really like these tiles; I see me buying more soon. Well done, MisterJustin and Secret Weapon Minis.
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