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In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
I haven't been here for the better part of a year, but I'm back with a huge "miniature". Its the Lysander model from Toscano, more of a statue than an actual miniature model. There have already been at least two of those in the forums, and they inspired me to paint my own. Also I paint to use the minis for D&D, and we were finishing a specific campaign where I needed a Tiamat miniature. Lysander has five identical heads, so I modified them to resemble the five evil dragon types from D&D lore. If you want to know more, please visit the WIP thread here.
So may I present to you Tiamat, the Dark Queen of Dragons. I actually finshed painting the beast last December, but just got new photo hardware today to shoot the thing.
Sir William Peacekeeper is facing Tiamat and Severin, the Cult of the Dragon's leader alone. Poor fool.
I'm working on this model at the moment:
I'm looking ahead towards the base for the tree portion. I want the tree to be erupting from wet, chunky, sloppy mud. Something like this this stock photo, minus the two guys. Just mud.
Any suggestions on materials for making that? Plaster? Red oxide paste? Something else?
About this project
Why another tabletop terrain project?
To give you an entire village-in-a-box! A unique design, that gives the illusion of tiled roofs, but where you can easily balance your precious miniatures! Easy to store - can be assembled and disassembled over and over! Quick to assemble - no use of glue is required! Simple to use - the MDF surface reacts well to many types of paint! What you get in the box
16 fantasy buildings (4 of each type, see below) Optional extra height for 8 buildings Optional extra tall "wizards tower" Assembly & painting guidelines Type 1: The Roaring Lions
The tallest building in the Dread Streets - at least if no one nearby dares add another store!
Type 2: The Twin Dragons
The wary citizens of the Dread Streets make scarecrows of their houses - but there are no crows, only neighbors with thieving fingers...
Type 3: The Lucky Seahorses
The shape of a seahorse is said to bring luck in the Dread Streets. Nothing else does...
Type 4: The Firebreathers
Considered a dire and foreboding shape - since gutter water is often sprayed from the mouths of the Firebreathers onto the onlookers!
"The Wizards Tower"
Wizards are not to be trusted, and are required by the law of the Dread Streets to live at least two stories above ground level.
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