wdmartin

77279 Narthrax the White

82 posts in this topic

And here's a base coat.

 

narthrax-41.jpg.0ba5c88e17ac5bbed23d01562429b019.jpg

 

narthrax-42.jpg.725a4a7b6d7637f8281e3e94cbe10b81.jpg

 

narthrax-43.jpg.db835850e86a87d9bae0f6298ead75a4.jpg

 

The rock and surrounding rubble are 1:1 Blue Liner/Stone Grey, as above.  The dirt areas around that are Muddy Brown.  I did a little bit of wet blending where the dirt and rubble meet, but not a whole lot.  A bunch of it is going to be covered in snow anyway, so I'm not too concerned about getting a super-realistic division between the two terrains.

 

Of course the camera has revealed a few spots I missed.  I'll touch those up on the next pass.

 

Of much greater concern is this mold line:

 

narthrax-44.jpg.1fb237fa93e214f536cc311e74f56fa7.jpg

 

It's super obvious.  Worse, it's right next to where the hoard is going to be, which means it's right next to the primary focal point of the base.  I have no idea how I'm going to remove that.  I've got exacto knives, diamond files, and that's about it.  I made some attempts at it earlier and then forgot about it.  The removal needs to be clean, because it's right smack across a smooth spot.  Gouging it out would be just as obvious as the mold line itself.

 

Any suggestions on that?  I suppose I could make a virtue of a necessity, and turn it into a whopping great fissure in the stone.  Or cover it with snow.  But I think I'd rather remove it if I can.  Bonesium is more difficult to work with than pewter for stuff like this.  The soft plastic makes it so easy to accidentally remove much more material than you intended to!

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41 minutes ago, wdmartin said:

And here's a base coat.

 

narthrax-41.jpg.0ba5c88e17ac5bbed23d01562429b019.jpg

 

narthrax-42.jpg.725a4a7b6d7637f8281e3e94cbe10b81.jpg

 

narthrax-43.jpg.db835850e86a87d9bae0f6298ead75a4.jpg

 

The rock and surrounding rubble are 1:1 Blue Liner/Stone Grey, as above.  The dirt areas around that are Muddy Brown.  I did a little bit of wet blending where the dirt and rubble meet, but not a whole lot.  A bunch of it is going to be covered in snow anyway, so I'm not too concerned about getting a super-realistic division between the two terrains.

 

Of course the camera has revealed a few spots I missed.  I'll touch those up on the next pass.

 

Of much greater concern is this mold line:

 

narthrax-44.jpg.1fb237fa93e214f536cc311e74f56fa7.jpg

 

It's super obvious.  Worse, it's right next to where the hoard is going to be, which means it's right next to the primary focal point of the base.  I have no idea how I'm going to remove that.  I've got exacto knives, diamond files, and that's about it.  I made some attempts at it earlier and then forgot about it.  The removal needs to be clean, because it's right smack across a smooth spot.  Gouging it out would be just as obvious as the mold line itself.

 

Any suggestions on that?  I suppose I could make a virtue of a necessity, and turn it into a whopping great fissure in the stone.  Or cover it with snow.  But I think I'd rather remove it if I can.  Bonesium is more difficult to work with than pewter for stuff like this.  The soft plastic makes it so easy to accidentally remove much more material than you intended to!

You can try scraping it with your scalpel and then just spot primer it. You can cover it with snow or flock or add some bits to the hoard, like a sword and shield or something. Or, add a little white glue and then sprinkle some sand or crumbled cork on it to look like debris/rubble.

 

I always find mold lines on Bones when I start painting, even after I have gone over everything before I primed it. It never fails!

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Covering up the mold line with some sort of flock is a great option. If you really want to shoot for getting a flat surface though, you can try a brush-on glossy sealer. GW 'Ardcoat is specifically what was recommended to me by Jessica Rich when she helped me out with a mold line I was having trouble with and that's what I used then and on other issues since then with great success. Paint it on along the sides of the mold line pretty liberally and into any spots that you might need to fill. Be careful around the glyphs and whatnot because it will also work toward filling in those details. Once it's dry, paint your basecoat colour over it. You may have to do this several times to get everything evened out.

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Good start!

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Paint [gloss sealer] on along the sides of the mold line pretty liberally and into any spots that you might need to fill.  Once it's dry, paint your basecoat colour over it.

 

That's brilliant!  And it worked perfectly.  Here's a pic of the gloss sealer after it dried but before base coating.

 

narthrax-45.jpg.e6e48a84b6baf6db82a9b21403d86505.jpg

 

After the first dry-brushing, the area was still a little too prominent.  Also I messed up on one end -- my "dry" brush had way too much pigment and rendered a whole surface much too bright.  That's okay, it can be fixed pretty easily.

 

narthrax-46.jpg.e3778df1db5adfdf94d5e4cd33950734.jpg

 

narthrax-47.jpg.d0b06bdff997fb993b0a8f7e60752add.jpg

 

narthrax-48.jpg.c57775c7c30cceb7592c485d6d9c45db.jpg

 

After a second dry brushing and some work on the shadows and highlights, I think I'm basically satisfied with the texture of the rock.

 

narthrax-49.jpg.de2f9b1da5c572f6d151abc21c3f8ad1.jpg

 

narthrax-50.jpg.db5e632e89c5ff9ccfcfcd132ce78e71.jpg

 

narthrax-51.jpg.0cf672b8eee55f28c6d81f256e81e932.jpg

 

The stone went as described above (Blue Liner/Stone Grey; Stone Grey; Aged Bone; thin Blue Liner in shadows, Aged Bone highlights). The dirt went Muddy Brown -> Sandy Brown -> Aged Bone.

 

The far end is fixed at this point.  Also, the mold line had picked up a fair bit of highlight which didn't look especially natural, so I brought it back down to the base coat.  Lastly, I picked out the runes in Walnut Brown, and used Aged Bone to give the faint suggestion of a vaguely elven head in the rock face.

 

Boy, that pumice is super-tough on brushes.  As you'd expect, I guess, considering it's real rock.

 

Next I'll be able to finally start building the hoard.

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That looks great! Definitely worth the effort you put into it!

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Further work on the hoard.  I don't know exactly which pieces of Ingrid's ... err, gear ... are going in, but definitely the two words.  So I thought I'd paint them up first.

 

Base coating the tops:

 

narthrax-52.jpg.b2b3a3a066798d0626edb7a3ee5a7ee0.jpg

 

I started with the hilts. Front:

 

narthrax-53.jpg.b5e775feaf4b98e3cedef8d70b22eae5.jpg

 

And back:

 

narthrax-54.jpg.18f475abbf2cd3285e33e80227299abc.jpg

 

Then I sealed them, poked the hilts into the putty and did the blades.  Front on the left, back on the right.  You can see that the smaller blade has a visible blemish, which is where it was attached previously to Ingrid.

 

narthrax-55.jpg.17b3fd28375b4e979ab56e9a8cbbb810.jpg

 

After some positioning, I glued them into place with some dots of superglue.

 

narthrax-56.jpg.b61be4d4a36edff0273b25cca4780622.jpg

 

And finally, it's time for some coins.

 

narthrax-57.jpg.edaa0960c5f530e94bb5337a47a299cf.jpg

 

Quite a few of those are loose.  I'm going to wait for the glue to dry, shake off the loose ones, and repeat.

 

Oh, and that bead with the Swarovski crystals has been in the oven at 170 F for ... about an hour and half now.  I should probably take that out.

 

EDIT: The bead was barely warm, and it didn't help in removing the gems.  Nuts.

Edited by wdmartin
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Great!

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Glue!

 

narthrax-58.jpg.952f4bcc52689e54c0f30ef53560d0c7.jpg

 

Primer!

 

narthrax-59.jpg.229843ae7e9cb4efc23b91dc0c9e7349.jpg

 

Paint!

 

narthrax-60.jpg.23048375b1ba238cf87d90efe45d6442.jpg

 

The bulk of the hoard is painted with Formula P3 Brass Balls.  The silver coins are Formula P3 Radiant Platinum, and the copper are Golden Iridescent Copper (Fine).

 

Immediately after taking these pics I put a black wash on to cut the shine just a tad and lend some extra definition to the coin edges.  It's still drying, I'll follow up on that next posting.  Also, yes, there are a couple spots where I got metallic paint on non-coin surfaces that will need some touch-up.

 

After totally failing to remove any crystals from that bead I bought, I ordered some gems from ArtBeads.com.  No idea when those will show up, but I'll probably only put one in.  Likewise I've decided not to put any more gear in the hoard -- we're getting to the point where it's going to be a bit too busy if I add too much stuff.

 

I'm worried about the Realistic Water.  I read its instructions carefully and discovered that it says not to use it with PVA glue, which I used to attach the coins.  Also, there are some underhangs in there, notably under the shortsword's scabbard.  From previous experiences, I'm going to have to be super careful to make sure those get FILLED and do not have air bubbles in there, because even after it has cured, air bubbles can slowly make their way to the surface, distorting the shape and appearance of the material as they do.  Also, Realistic Water isn't supposed to go on in more than 1/8" depths per pour, then cure 24 hours before the next pour can be done, which is going to make this process super long.

 

I may email the people at Woodland Scenics for advice.

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I'm loving the extra touches to the base! Lovely work! 

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Looking most excellent!

 

I don't like to use realistic water much anymore. It has it's uses, but not for "water" for me. I like to use the 2-part epoxy resins instead. They dry super hard and do not move or shrink after they are supposedly cured. Realistic water in deeper pours continues to shrink and it will kind of reactivate in warm weather and turn malleable or soft. Definitely not a fan for those applications. I like it for making mud and snow and very very tiny pours for little itty bitty pools of water. 

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1 hour ago, ub3r_n3rd said:

I like to use the 2-part epoxy resins instead. They dry super hard and do not move or shrink after they are supposedly cured. Realistic water in deeper pours continues to shrink and it will kind of reactivate in warm weather and turn malleable or soft.

 

Any particular type of 2-part epoxy resins?  I want this to be a smooth, hard sheet of ice that does not change once it's in place.

 

Also, thanks for all the positive feedback, everyone! ^_^

 

EDIT:  Oh, and the wash dried.  I think it helps a little with defining the coins.  Hard to say.

 

narthrax-61.jpg.daf429aab3eb6ecfe3720ad624001329.jpg

Edited by wdmartin
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10 minutes ago, wdmartin said:

 

Any particular type of 2-part epoxy resins?  I want this to be a smooth, hard sheet of ice that does not change once it's in place.

 

Also, thanks for all the positive feedback, everyone! ^_^

 

EDIT:  Oh, and the wash dried.  I think it helps a little with defining the coins.  Hard to say.

 

narthrax-61.jpg.daf429aab3eb6ecfe3720ad624001329.jpg

I use "easy cast" which I get from Michaels. Use a 40-50% off coupon and you're good to go. It takes 24 - 48 hours to dry depending on thickness and humidity. 

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I am not sure how you would make your "frame" to do a pour on that base. It has to be tight or the water effect stuff goes everywhere!

 

It is looking really good and I like the treasure pile. I will be attempting something similar soon.

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My idea is that the ice is going to be only at the top of the gold pile.  The lower reaches will emerge and be ice free, or perhaps covered in cracked ice from the cracked ice effect crackle paint stuff.

 

In order to do that, I'm going to build a kind of cradle that will hold the entire base at an angle temporarily.  Say, a nice big lump of play-dough or similar.  At that point, the top of the hoard area will form a kind of "cup".  I just need to pour it in and wait till it's cured before I move it again.

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