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77279 Narthrax the White

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I touched up a few spots on the base, covered the wood edge in Walnut Brown, and sealed the whole thing.  Dang, it used up a lot of Brush On Sealer!  I may need to buy a new bottle by the time this dragon is done.




At this point I can't do any further work on the base until those gems I ordered arrive.  So it's time to start the dragon!


First up, I wanted to paint the interior of the mouth before assembling the head.  So here we go with a base coat of a random paint sample Reaper sent me at one point with no name.  I call it "Pepto Bismol."




Then a wash of sepia, and finally I based the teeth in NMM Gold Highlight, and finished them up with thin layers of Solid White.










Hmm.  Missed a tooth, and a spot at the back of the throat.  I may need to do a bit of the areas underneath the head before attaching it.

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Thanks alot for posting this.


This is the kind of information and walkthough that one can learn from and is very much appreciated.


Your project looks incredible but the knowledge and inspiration is very appreciated.

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@ograxGlad you find it useful!


Tonight, assembly and the underbelly.


Not having really done large models before, this is moderately experimental.  I put pins in the wings and tail -- the arm and head didn't seem to need them, being much larger.  I put the pins in the wings just by drilling some holes in and supergluing them in place.  In order to get them to match up on the interior, I dipped the ends of the pins in paint and pushed them into place, then drilled the holes on the interior of the wings where they left paint.  I didn't think to take pictures of that step, sorry.


Next I mixed up some greenstuff and laid it around one wing.




Then I dabbed super-glue on, shoved it in place, and smooshed the greenstuff until it kinda matched up.






Having to keep the tools damp meant that when some of the superglue oozed up to the top, it crystalized almost instantly.  I don't know if that will affect the joint or not, but I decided for the next one to glue first and then tamp the greenstuff down into the joint afterwards.  Here's the second wing:






But honestly, the joint didn't FEEL as steady on the second wing.  I think it'll hold, especially now that it's had some time to cure, but I don't know which is better.  For the tail I went back to the first method.






Ditto for the arm.




Except for the head, it's fully assembled.  I think I may attach the head last -- there are a whole bunch of little bits on the neck where it's going to be easier to paint if the head (and its spikes) aren't in the way.


I had started base coating the belly in Palomino Gold before deciding to assemble.  So once it was put together, I proceeded with that.




And then began putting in layers of Solid White.  The upper scales in the next photo have had 2 passes of solid white plus some dabs of thinned Palomino Gold in the crevices because I initially got that too white.  The lower scales approaching the tail had only had one pass of Solid White at this point.




And here it is with the belly scales whitened throughout.




You can still see the yellow underneath, but it's most obvious if you're looking at it from an angle.  I left the edges of the scales yellow.




I may go back and spend some more time on some of the belly scales in the tail region before moving on.  They could do with a bit more attention.


Getting the right consistency of paint was easy, but I had trouble -- at least initially -- with keeping the brush from holding too much pigment.  I wanted thin layers that built up on repeated application, for richer undertones.  I kept having too much thin paint come out and schloop all over everything.  Eventually, I took to scraping off as much paint on the well as I could and then dabbing the brush against a kleenex tissue to absorb some of the liquid.  That gave me a lot better control, but also meant I was wasting a fair bit of paint on the tissue.  Tradeoffs, I guess.  I figure I'll use the same technique for most of the rest of it, just with different base coat layers.  The wings may be challenging.



Edited by wdmartin
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So I base coated about one half of his torso and tail in Snow Shadow, and then began working on the scales.






Apologies for the different colors of pic -- my phone camera's auto white balance thingy sometimes randomly decides to shift all the colors one way or another.


Anyway ... if you look at that second pic, you'll note I worked on two different legs.


The white scales on the left leg took fifteen minutes!  It's a single layer of undiluted Solid White straight from the bottle.  But it's way too sharp and doesn't read as white.


The white scales on the right leg took three hours.  They are also Solid White, but extremely thin, and there are ... uh, four layers?  Five?  But they look pretty good.


Cripes.  This is going to take an age.

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Well, I spent a couple more hours working on it.




Aaaand ... I don't like it.


The Snow Shadow is WAY too dominant.  He's a white dragon,but he doesn't read that way.  The blue is meant to be subtle.  It's supposed to be there strictly in order to lend definition to the scales.  Instead, it draws the eye and drowns out the white.  This is also true of the Palomino Gold on the belly, but less so because


Meanwhile, it's taking an age -- a dragon age! --  to make any progress applying so many very thin layers of Solid White.  I find myself wondering whether it would be better to just coat all of his scales in 100% Solid White, wash it with very thin mixtures of the Snow Shadow/Palomino Gold, and finally touch up the highlights with pure Solid White.  I think I need to experiment with that approach on his other side.

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Definitely try solid white with a wash of snow shadow, maybe lightened with white 10-20%.


Then it is just 1-2 layers of white "glaze" in the narrow transition.



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My first attempt at washing did not go well!




I think the Snow Shadow lost its coherence because I added too much water.  It barely left any color at all, and the bits that it did leave were blotchy.


Attempt 2:



Better! I used colorless wash medium instead of regular water -- I think 2 or 3 drops to 1 drop of Snow Shadow.  It's too blue, but once we clean up some of the scale tips it should read right.




Thus.  That looks much better to me.  Much more organic.  Working up from Snow Shadow to white left it feeling far too regular.  The edges of the scales were too sharply defined.  This method feels much more believable (not to mention a lot faster!).


Of course that leaves the problem that I've painted about half of one side with the method I don't like.  So I thought, "Maybe if I wash that part with Solid White?"  I experimented on the inside of his thigh where it wouldn't be too obvious if it didn't work.




The wash of Solid White was applied only at the top left areas of this photo, not lower.  I think it works, so I'm going to proceed with that this evening, I think.  I'll probably also hit the Palomino Gold bits of his underbelly with the same white wash.


You could say I'm whitewashing my problems! :-Þ

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Looking awesome!  Thanks for posting!


I like to paint for display but when it comes to basing I always have a hard time coming up with an awesome scene like this one.

Edited by NecroMancer
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@edz16I made my own.  Here's the recipe:


Mix 1 part Liquitex Flow Improver with 9 parts distilled water.

Combine the resulting liquid with Liquitex Matte Medium (50/50).

Put it in a dropper bottle.

Mix with your paint to taste.  I find it particularly useful with metallic paints.


There's a full tutorial with video at Dakka Dakka, which is where I learned how to do it.

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