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    • By Sae
      FANTASY FOOTBALL - Florence's Knights: Bretonans and Humans by Greebo Games
      The Bretonans miniatures look good for gaming: knights (one has something precious you could repurpose), town guards, and townsfolk.
      The Imperial team looks football only.
    • By ThirstyBob
      So taken a few pic of this guy as I was painting him, started out priming black airbrush pre shading white, then painted the whole thing in brown before changing my mind and going this direction.

      That was the shadows and blending, then I did some yellow highlights on the back and mane, and detail on the face.

      Not sure if I'm done, maybe a bit more blending on the stomach, I think it's showing a bit too much blue.

    • By Pingo
      So I realized I only had one painted dwarf (!) when one of my GMs asked me if I had anything for the Jadeborn, a race in Exalted that is roughly equivalent to dwarves except for the 0.001% who are roughly equivalent to elves. And they are also sort of stone golems. Based on jade.
      I thought Reaper's 60184: Meyanda, Android Priestess, sculpted by Bobby Jackson, would do well for one of the elfy artisan Jadeborn and I pulled out a random assortment of seven (because of course) dwarves for the worker and warrior Jadeborn.
      All paints used are Golden Matte Fluid Acrylics. Color mixes are (usually) noted, but not exact ratios.
      Questions are welcomed and I will try to answer them. Critiques are appreciated.
      This is the way I usually start miniature figures: Lightly primed with Titanium White, then when that is dry, washing it over with Burnt Umber. Burnt Umber is a dark, transparent pigment that settles into crannies when thinned down and shows the details very well. It also gives a nice warm undertone to later paint layers.
      I left a few crystal and gem areas white so they will have more luminosity later.

      Left to right:
      Reaper 60184, Meyanda Android Priestess; Ral Partha; Hasslefree HFD014 Hatherley; Oathsworn Miniatures; Oathsworn Miniatures; Red Box Games; Stonehaven Miniatures; Reaper 14143: Kara Foehunter, Dwarf Hero

      The Ral Partha dwarf is tiny!


    • By WhiteWulfe
      So, I'm about to start working on making some 3D bases of my own for my dragons (and hubby's too)...  Anyone have any pointers or tips on particular putted to use when coating stuff like cork to add more detail, or would there be much of a difference between say Milliput, greenstuff, or other things?   I ask as terrain generally doesn't require as much detail as a mini would, but it never hurts to get a few more opinions. 
      I do have greenstuff atm (and Aves Apoxie if this supplier I'm trying to buy some from sends me an invoice ), and might be ordering some other stuff, hence why I'm curious. 
      Love greenstuff for stamped or rolled bases, and gap filling (I suspect when I try sculpting I'll like it too, I'm enjoying how it behaves now that I've had a bit of time using it for gap filling and bases), but naturally I'm open to other options too. 
    • By Thrym
      It's that time of year again, the High School Play where my wife, the English Teacher, handles costumes, props, hair and makeup. 
      This year's play is an amusing comedy called ...

      And I was tasked with creating the badge.  It started out as an oval of light weight wood from AC Moore or similar store; approximately, 4.5 in by 2.25 in. 
      I printed a Star out on my computer to size and poked holes into the wood where I wanted the star on the oval.  Then I marked the cuts I wanted on the edges to get the "shield" shape for the badge.
      Then I added cork pieces in the shape of the 5 points of the star from the middle to build the star. 
      After hot gluing the pieces down I sanded a bevel into the shape.  Then I skimmed the whole thing with DAS air-dry clay to bulk up the background and smooth the star over.

      Then sanded it down smooth and sealed it once it had cured.

      Then sanded down the seal with some fine grit and primed it white.

      From there I painted the background of the badge Reaper Scorched Metal and the star Reaper Honed Steel.  Then to set off the star a bit, I pained just the inset top of the star with Vallejo Silver.

      I think it came out nice and should show well from the stage.  The back just got a nice coating of a craft paint ... specifically Wrought Iron Black like I used to Prime the Marvel Golems.
      Of course, it got a heavy coat of Testors Dullcote to seal it all up.
      Seeing the play this Friday.  The prop will likely get all of 10 seconds of visibility.  LOL
      But it's all good practice.
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