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Dragons Don't Share Stonework questions..

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So I broke open my Dragons Don't Share box last night and did some test-assembling of the base and now have a few questions..

 

First, it seems to be a soft rubbery plastic rather than the hard plastic that most Bones are and since some of the base edges are curled up, I am wondering if the same method of boil/chill work for straightening these as for normal bones

Second, where the tower base and tower top meet, there's a tab on the the tower top, but no matching hole in the tower base to match - I presume that's not by design and I'll have to drill out a hole for the tab. And on the other side of the tower top/base meeting it's a very disjointed match..

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Which leads to the actual question - do most folks join the top and bottom of the base after painting?

 

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DDS is one my soon to do list. I boiled the pieces once a long time ago and guess I didn't do it right because they've warped again. It should work but I think that you need to boil it longer due to the thickness of the material. I've had lots of success with boiling smaller minis. I plan on gluing the two upper tower pieces together but leaving that combined piece seperate from the lower part/base. Mine's warped enough that I hadn't noticed the tab and nothing fits very good. I'm hoping that a proper boiling will make it better.

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 Boiling will work, but you need to boil them a long damn time for the heat to work its way all the way through the piece since it's so thick.

As for the tab, some folks have dug out a hole in the opposite piece for it, and some have just cut it off...

 

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I had the same curling of the bases (like a potato chip) and I boiled them, and when I gave them the ice shock bath, I made sure to hold the edges down.  In fact I may have bent them down excessively and then pressed them flat against the bottom of the pan I had the ice water in to make sure they would set flat.

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I cut the tab off. I did not attach the top of the tower to the bottom so I can still lift it off. I boiled and then clamped mine flat. I then also glued mine to a base I made.

 

My WIP is here:

 

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I boiled mine but they're still soft enough to get re-bent.  I will be gluing them to some thin wood for stability.  I plan to glue the two pieces that obviously fit together so that they don't re-warp, they wouldn't fit properly until I boiled them.  

 

Definitely the terrain needs some TLC.  

 

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Thanks all - I think I'm going to hit the local Ace tomorrow (closed for Labor Day today) and pick up either some thin plywood or MDF and go from there - my first attempt at boiling / icing worked for about an hour, then I noticed that they were curled back up again.. 

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Yeah, with such a big piece the heat really needs time to penetrate. Before summer's gone, you might have another workable option. Leave the piece in a hot car for a few hours, let it get soft and then flatten it and chill it.

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I think you might do better to let the plastic cool slowly (anneal) rather than shock cooling it with ice. It will allow the internal tensions to relax more and might allow the piece to stay more flat.

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3 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

I think you might do better to let the plastic cool slowly (anneal) rather than shock cooling it with ice. It will allow the internal tensions to relax more and might allow the piece to stay more flat.

 

Absolutely correct. I think though that with a piece this large chilling it won't really hurt it. Just as with warming it up enough to restore its shape, it will take some time for the interior to cool down to room temp. A quick dip in some cold water (I agree ice is probably overkill) may help the exterior surface hold its shape and prevent it from re-warping. 

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1 minute ago, Dan Goodchild said:

 

Absolutely correct. I think though that with a piece this large chilling it won't really hurt it. Just as with warming it up enough to restore its shape, it will take some time for the interior to cool down to room temp. A quick dip in some cold water (I agree ice is probably overkill) may help the exterior surface hold its shape and prevent it from re-warping. 

 

There's something to be said for building a simple annealing oven (cardboard box with an incandescent bulb) to slow cooling even more*. I'd say it's totally overkill, except that everybody seems to be having problems with the base rewarping.

 

* Only you can prevent house fires. Please do that.

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3 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

There's something to be said for building a simple annealing oven (cardboard box with an incandescent bulb) to slow cooling even more*. I'd say it's totally overkill, except that everybody seems to be having problems with the base rewarping.

 

* Only you can prevent house fires. Please do that.

 

I like that idea but it's difficult (read as: expensive) to find incandescent bulbs around here these days.

That said, I do have an infrared heat bulb that's destined for a winter feral cat shelter.

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I glued mine together on my second reheat. cooled it in ice water with it glued so that it would cool in the proper position.  Did not warp after that.

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On 9/4/2017 at 0:27 PM, Doug Sundseth said:

 

There's something to be said for building a simple annealing oven (cardboard box with an incandescent bulb) to slow cooling even more*. I'd say it's totally overkill, except that everybody seems to be having problems with the base rewarping.

 

* Only you can prevent house fires. Please do that.

[Looks at crock pot.]

[Looks at Bones.]

[Looks at crock pot again.]

[Ponders...]

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