kristof65

77306: Translucent Slimes and Tamiya Clears

11 posts in this topic

I'm getting ready to paint my Kyphryxis Dragon in the Translucent Bones, and wanted to test how the different colors of the Tamiya Clears looked on the Bones translucent material.  So I picked up some of the 77306 Translucent Slimes.   These are literally quick paints - I just slopped on the Tamiya Clear on each one. I'm posting them here not to show off, but for your convenience and reference.

Warning - Pic heavy

First off, a plain, untouched translucent Bones slime:

PlainSlime.thumb.png.be1443c5ae98840e3cd2248968a3a26d.png

 

Next, painted in Tamiya Clear Yellow:
YellowSlime.thumb.png.e9c5fd485bf84872eb0bdb3e70a7a5a9.png

 

Next in Tamiya Clear Blue:
BlueSlime.thumb.png.7461bbf4ab7dadabf83cb2a713926e1e.png

 

Tamiya Clear Green:
GreenSlime.thumb.png.f6664aea889c4e08c93f4ffc728501ac.png

 

Tamiya Clear Smoke:

SmokeSlime.thumb.png.f0b381617956e491bc841058b84931e1.png

 

Tamiya Clear Red:

RedSlime.thumb.png.7e3e8d2e74de09aeac294de0cb787f00.png

 

Tamiya Clear Orange:

OrangeSlime.thumb.png.162af04db2eb4c9d64a65204570ce351.png

 

And finally, my actual test piece, which I'm calling a "Fire Slime". I will probably be using a similar scheme for my Kyphrixis:

FireSlime.thumb.png.4258f348214dfa4e4d9ae9dacabf3862.png

 

As you can see, the Tamiya Clears are really good at literally changing the color of the translucent Bones material, while maintaining the translucency.  At some point, i think I'm going to try and pick up multiples of some of the other translucent colors, and do similar test pieces. I already know from the fire elementals that it will change the tones of the red/orange Bones. 

 

21 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is really awesome.  I've heard some good things about Tamiya Clears, but have never used any myself.

 

I noticed the bottles say flammable.  Are these solvent based?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, Clearman said:

That is really awesome.  I've heard some good things about Tamiya Clears, but have never used any myself.

 

I noticed the bottles say flammable.  Are these solvent based?

Thanks.

 

Yes - alcohol.  Specifically isopropanal and glycol ethers.   i don't mix them with anything else, and I have a set of brushes dedicated to them. 

 

ETA: That doesn't necessarily mean you can't, I don't know, and therefore, I never do. I picked the majority of them up specifically for my translucent bones - I had a bottle of red and blue from a police car model I did years ago, and when someone mentioned the clears would work on the Translucent Bones, i tried those two, and loved the effect, so picked the rest up. 

Edited by kristof65
4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow really nice, i have the tamiya red clear and its really cool for fresh blood effect, but what you did its pretty cool, i probably gonna buy some more tamiya clears. :P

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is great to know! Sincere thanks for taking the time to post. I also use clear red for blood and i woulndt choose anything else for that purpose but it is very good to know they work with taranslucent bones as well..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, ApexGT3 said:

Those look great! What type of brush did you use?

Some generic size 3 or 4 synthetic brush I got at Micheal's or Hobby Lobby. 

I literally just slopped the paint on the solid color ones.   When I go to do Kyphrixis, I will likely use a smaller brush and take more care. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a SPLENDID effect. VERY NICELY DONE!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I am defiantly going to have to pick some of these up.  Thx for the info!.

 

Wow these are hard to find in Canada.  Found an ebay seller in Taiwan who will ship for free to Canada....but might not be here till December.....well I picked up all these colors for $20US.  If it shows up great.  It will be the best $20 bucks I have ever spent then.:lol:  If they don't well it was only 20bucks i guess.<_<

 

Of course this is going to end up with me probably picking up more Reaper clear bones stuff to paint....^_^

Edited by Logos
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They look good; thanks for conducting the experiment and sharing the results.:winkthumbs:

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Maledrakh
      In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
      Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
      Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
      From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper,  Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
      So anyway:
       

       
      The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
      When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
      Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
      Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
      I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with  Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
      The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
      Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
      I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
       





      I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
      To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
       
       
      Kyphrixis (clear variant)
      Reaper Bones KS3
      Translucent bones
      125mm x 90mm oval base
       
       
    • By Lidless Eye
      Just a bunch of Eastern myth themed minis, mostly from Bones III and one Kenku/Tengu Monk from Stonehaven.

      Oh, and some Myconids from Ganesha Games and Bones III plant monsters.  More Mario than myth, I suppose.
       

       
      Oni close-up:
       


      Kitsune close-up:



      I like the male Kitsuine a lot more than I was expecting.  His pose, with all its swagger, adds a lot of character.  I also hadn't noticed the sake cup he was holding until I started painting.
    • By jonaas33
      Whipped this guy up while taking a break from a few bigger projects.  There are a LOT of touchups that I need to make, but for a palette cleanser, I think he turned out pretty cool.  I think I need to find a place in my house with better lighting, because I notice a lot of detail errors when I get the close-up picture taken that I never saw when painting.  Does anyone use magnifying glass or something else to help with smaller parts of a fig?  I have excellent vision, but the difference between just looking at a fig on a tabletop and getting picture taken is pretty stark.  Now I need to come up with a Big Bad Evil Guy so I can use this guy during an adventure.  I appreciate any advice and critiques!  Thanks!


    • By Ash Adler
      Intellect devourers were always one of my favorite D&D monsters, so I'd been planning on painting this mini eventually, but I never got around to buying it since it was kind of plain compared to most other minis.  As fortune had it, though, I got it as a bonus with my last order from Reaper, so I decided to just do it.  Color scheme was based on a mixture of the AD&D 2nd Edition Monstrous Manual intellect devourer, the more "realistic" 3rd edition version, and a smattering of actual crabs.
       

       
      As usual, the process of working on it is on my blog: link
       
      Unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to handle holding a mini without a base that I could stick on top of a shot glass.  I held it by unpainted parts for as long as I could, but in the end, I held it by the brain to finish off the talons.  Sadly, that led to some of the paint getting rubbed off (probably could've avoided at least some of that if I hadn't been squeezing it so hard, but it's easy to forget my strength at times).  Aside from that, though, I'm rather pleased with how it turned out .  It was a simple mini, but I enjoyed it.  C&C welcome (especially any tips for how to avoid damaging finished paint on baseless minis, short of varnishing a completed area to hold it by for the final parts).
    • By Ash Adler
      I'm glad I got talked into checking out these kits.  Having someone walk me through what exactly to do really helped me to focus on what was happening with the mini without getting distracted by thinking about the next color choice or whatever.
       

      Honestly, the skeleton was probably my favorite of the 3 minis.  Sure, it doesn't have as much going on with it as the other two, but the simplicity makes it good for learning, it's the one that seems best suited to "drybrush EVERYTHING" approach to highlighting, and besides, the dopey look of it is rather cute
       

      This one, on the other hand, was kind of a nightmare.  It's not so much that there was anything particularly difficult about the model itself (it's actually posed to make things pretty easy to access all around), but it was just horrible trying to drybrush it with any real sort of cleanliness (not talking so much about how I clearly overdid it in some areas as stuff like the random brown smudges on his skin, metal sparkles on his leather parts, etc.).  Well, that, and I had a hell of a time getting the brush to survive banging into the spikey bits no matter how careful/gentle I tried to be with it when doing the leather bits.
       
      Getting more eye practice is never a bad thing, at least.  I even managed to keep the black outline all around the whites this time!
       

      This one annoyed me to start out because I just couldn't get the sword to set straight no matter how much I overbent it in the other direction while doing the whole hot/cold water thing.  Once I decided to just give up and go with it, though, it was pretty smooth.  Probably the best looking of the three in the end.
       
      All in all, it was a very valuable learning experience.  Hoping that the learning keep going on through the next kit as well!
  • Who's Online   18 Members, 2 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)