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In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
Whew. I finished him. I have to say, this was a fun project. The idea came to me sometime last year, but it took awhile for me to get around to working on him. I've decided that monochrome relaxes me. It's just easier somehow to take color out of the picture and just work on shadows and highlights. I think I need to vary my levels a bit, but overall, I wanted it to read as a night scene, so I'm happy. I like the idea of an accent color. I've been wanting to try that for awhile now. Though looking at him, I could probably pop the osl on his face. the pumpkin in the back worked out better- most likely because it has larger opening for the eyes. I tried to find his sku number in the catalog and failed, but this was The Headless Mousling from 2014, sculpted by Gene Van Horne.I used a bones rat, a pillar from the graveyard set, and 2 pumpkins. Anyway, enjoy and Happy Halloween! I'm using my new Iphone and seem to have issues editing, so pics may be a bit funky...
By Kuro Cleanbrush
Well, it's been about seven years since I last painted a space marine, and I have to confess that seeing all the amazing work on the new Primaris Marines was making me want to give it a try again. I have long thought it would be cool to do a chrome (or SENMM [Sky-Earth Non-Metallic Metal]) Marine, so I finally gave that a shot! The technique itself is painfully slow, but I had a lot of fun, and I'm pretty happy with the results!
Oh, and I did do a little bit of conversion work by swapping in some old Dark Angels bits, in case anyone was wondering!
Thanks for looking! Hopefully, after ReaperCon, I'll have time to do a YouTube tutorial on how I did the chrome for those of you who are interested!
For your consideration: Reaper Bones miniature Female Anti-Paladin.
It wasn't until I started on my idea for the shield that I realized that *it* was the Main Character. Not exactly a daemon-possessed sword, but a symbiotic relationship none-the-less. Extravagant tone with bright, decadent colors. She-Hulk for the hair. Massive Voodoo for the dots. (More dots!) My cat Zen for the eyes. (He's a Tom.) Lots of non-textured areas to tell a story. Great player character or reoccurring NPC.
A lesson of extreme - in Color and form. The armor was protective but the clothing was tattered like a torn mesh bodysuit. Heavy straps encircled limbs and the armored boots formed like hooves. Toothy maw adornment on the armor hints at hunger. A very introspective Pin-Up.
I hope you enjoy. :)
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