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Guindyloo and Buglips paint DHL 03100: Thanis the Bonecaller

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3 hours ago, Guindyloo said:

Go to the very top of the forum where it says your name in the top right corner and click on it. From the dropdown, click on Account Settings. The Overview section should be the default view and to the right of that screen, it will say "Other Settings" click on "Ignored Users" below that. It will list Buglips under your Ignored Users section with a note that you're ignoring his signature. Next to his name, click on the little Gear and select to stop ignoring him. You will then be able to see his signature again.


Thx, I'm no longer ignoring him now.

I still don't know how it happened,..


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Alright, so something that took me a very long time was basecoating her bone armor bits. This was a real test of my brush control and I said a lot of words that I can't repeat here. ::P: All in all, it went well and I was surprised by how little cleanup I had to do afterward. But boy was it tedious. I used Brown Liner, unthinned and had to be wary of how much was on my brush at all times, since Brown Liner does have a good bit of flow improver in it and so it likes to flow into cracks. I wanted as much control as possible, so I wiped the excess on my thumb before touching the brush to the figure.


At one point, while doing the shins, I realized that I had missed a spot of skin on her ankle. It was a bit difficult to get a brush down in there and here is a really good example of why you want to paint from the inside out...



The side of my brush hit the shins, so I had to repaint that part. Not the end of the world, but would've been far more frustrating had I already completed the shin guards.


So here she is after I finished basecoating all of the armour and jewelry.  




As you can see, this was after I'd realized that I hadn't painted her back and rectified that.


Now from there, I had to make some decisions as to how exactly I was going to paint all of these bits. The example in the store painted all of it as metallic, but I didn't feel up to doing quite so much NMM...because, yeah, we're attempting NMM here. I'm not good at it, but want to be, so I'm going to keep pushing myself to attempt it until I get better at it.

So I decided that I would do the shoulderpads, arm bands and the skulls on the knees as gold NMM.


So I started by layering up with MSP NMM Gold Shadow, leaving the Brown Liner in the deepest areas as my darkest shadow.

Unfortunately, I'm a big dummy and forgot to take a picture at that stage. I swear, I'm going to get better at taking these step by step pictures....just not in this post. ::P:


Next, I took MSP NMM Gold Base and mixed it about half and half with the NMM Gold Shadow and used that in a slightly smaller area.


That is slightly thinned with water, using a drop from the back end of my brush.





Next I continued in a slightly smaller area with straight NMM Gold Base and, you guessed it, I forgot to take a picture.....but I remembered after I'd started on the next colour on only a couple of spots, so here are those pictures. My bad.





The next step up, which had begun in the previous pictures, was to take MSP NMM Gold Highlight and mix it about half and half with the NMM Gold Base.



Which I used to highlight an even smaller area.





Then I did just the edges with straight NMM Gold Highlight.......and forgot to take a picture before I did just little spots with white.





Soooooo, yeah, it's not great NMM. I don't think it's reading as particularly metallic. However, I've decided to keep moving forward for now to see if painting the surrounding areas makes it look any better because right now it's surrounded by quite a lot of white, so that may be making it look worse by comparison. That's my hope anyway.


Now, remember how we talked about the seams on the thighs and how I fixed them with thin coats of 'Ardcoat? I took a picture!


So here, again, is what the thighs looked like before 'Ardcoat:



And here they are after 'Ardcoat and painting:


Ignore how bruise-y that shading looks, I've worked on that since. But as you can see, no more seams!


And now that's me caught up to this point. My next post will be stuff that I'm actually doing tonight and hopefully not having a backlog of pictures will help me to remember to take proper ones at each step from here on out.



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Time to highlight the skin.  I thinned my pro paint caucasian about 4:1 water to paint and wicked most of it off the brush on a paper towel.  Thin paint not only gives control, but it gives some error leeway.  That's good, especially for skin.  I tend to start on an area I know will be light and then rotate the model around like I did for the basecoat.  I'm not paying too much attention to light direction, except to keep in mind that "up" = "lighter".  This saves time and thinking, and will look good for the tabletop, but is not technically correct.  So it's expedient, but for display you may want to think it through a bit more than I did.  So I went around until it felt like it looked right, then added a few drops of pro paint dragon white to lighten it.  I then repeated the process, hitting only the smaller spots I wanted lighter.  I think its done now, but the rest of the model is still quite dark, so if it doesn't look right when the rest of it layers up then I can go over it again.





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Ahhhhh! I love this thread!!! I love the double teaching, I love the commentary, and I love that you both enjoy creating threads like this. :wub: 


Also. Whoops. I use my nice brush for priming. That's why it's puffy. And whoops, I use my nice brush for color mixing. It's puffy.... 

At least I can fix it now!


And Buglips'ss's 1:1 paint isn't thin enough for glazing?

Whoooooops......... :lol: 

Edited by Morihalda
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