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Sealers - Brush-on vs Spray-on - What do you use/recommend?

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Hi guys, 

 

I'm relatively new to painting, so far I've tried reaper's brush on sealer, though applied it a little heavily and took off some paint while applying it. Are there good spray on sealers you guys use?

 

Thanks!

 

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I use both, but lately I tend to use the brush on variant more.

This is due to an accident where the spray sealer got to cold and caused my paintjob to become splotched.

I actually rescued it by using brush on over it again.

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I stick to brush-on sealers because cans are finicky about air humidity and temperature. I can control the brush-on better. However, from what I hear, canned stuff can be stronger sealant. For me, the control is worth the trade-off. Having a smaller bottle to worry about is also good - cans are big and clunky. I could use that space for minis instead. 

 

Edit: I have never had a brush-on strip my figure while I've been using it. 

Edited by Cyradis
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I once heard someone describe putting a layer of brush on sealer as, "saving your work." I frequently do this with faces and fine details, it makes it easier to clean up stray brush strokes and spatters.  

 

Since many spray sealers react with Bones I just stick with brush on.  If cost is a concern there are some Liquitex products that are cheaper by volume but I haven't used them.

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brush on.

 

spray sealer gloss can be really good, but you'll end up shiny.  you can then hit that with a matte sealer, but matte sealers can be finicky about the humidity with the talc (or whatever) coming out of suspension and making the mini matte, but frosty.

 

brush on sealer is usable indoors by me across pretty much the entire range of my indoor climate.  spray sealers leave me at the mercy of the outdoors.

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How did brush-on sealer remove paint?  That's a highly unusual result, can you give a little detail? 

 

I tend to use Reaper's brush-on sealer exclusively now, especially for metal figures. 

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I use brush on sealer as well, sometimes through my airbrush. If I am doing something big, like a car model, I MAY use testors dullcoat. But as others have said, with cans being weather finicky, using "brush on" either with a brush or airbrush is easier. Especially if I want to work at 2AM.

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Historically, I've use Testor's Dull Coat.  For the last 6 months or so I've been using Reaper brush on sealer, mostly for the control and weather concerns others have mentions.  I prefer the finish of the spray.  The brush on has a very slight satin finish, but I've been getting used to it. 

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Just now, Clearman said:

Historically, I've use Testor's Dull Coat.  For the last 6 months or so I've been using Reaper brush on sealer, mostly for the control and weather concerns others have mentions.  I prefer the finish of the spray.  The brush on has a very slight satin finish, but I've been getting used to it. 

 

If you thin it a little with water it makes it more matte.  I found that trick in an old Casketworks. 

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If the brush-on sealer took paint off I'd guess that either the paint wasn't fully dry, or there was a adhesion problem from the beginning.

(always wash minis thoroughly with lukewarm soapy water. Dish soap is good. Prime Bones with a Reaper Liner, and metal/resin with a primer)

 

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I have a large-ish bottle of Liquitex Matte Varnish.  Diluted with a little bit of water, it seems to work very well.

 

As for it stripping paint off, I've never encountered that.  I can think of four things that might have happened.

 

1) The paint wasn't fully dry.

2) The miniature had a spot that hadn't been primered, or the primer had worn off.

3) You applied pressure to the mini while applying the sealer.

4) The paint had  been applied on top of something it couldn't adhere to. (related to #2, but possible if you handled the mini and left residual oil on the paint)

 

I use a large brush, something like a #3, mix up the varnish, and apply liberally but without any pressure.  I will dab off excess and deposit it onto a nearby wipe cloth (paper towel, napkin, etc).  But I don't apply it like I do paint.  More like a very sloppy wash.

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I use brush on sealer sparingly, mostly when I need to seal a part before sealing everything (like a small dragon wing before gluing it on). Otherwise, I use Krylon Low Odor Clear Finish, Matte. It's acetone free, since I have a hypothesis that acetone messes with Bones figures.

 

I'm in a very dry area, so don't worry too much about humidity and temperature. I don't spray when its freezing out, tho. We just keep a shelf of things that need sealed until its warm enough.

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I'm the same as Pegazus. I use the same Krylon varnish or sometimes Krylon's UV resistant varnish on things that have decals or flags that I've printed myself. Rarely had troubles with frosting but it has happened. I only use brush on sealer a little bit on my fanciest minis.

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On 1/13/2018 at 4:53 PM, Doug's Workshop said:

I have a large-ish bottle of Liquitex Matte Varnish.  Diluted with a little bit of water, it seems to work very well.

 

As for it stripping paint off, I've never encountered that.  I can think of four things that might have happened.

 

1) The paint wasn't fully dry.

2) The miniature had a spot that hadn't been primered, or the primer had worn off.

3) You applied pressure to the mini while applying the sealer.

4) The paint had  been applied on top of something it couldn't adhere to. (related to #2, but possible if you handled the mini and left residual oil on the paint)

 

This is where understanding the difference between paint "drying" and paint "curing" is necessary. Acrylic paint dries fast (safe to touch), particularly on minis where thin layers are the norm. But to reach maximum hardness and resistance to solvents and water, the paint needs to cure for a much longer time (varies by paint type and thickness of layers).

 

A good guide for minis is to wait 24 hours before sealing.

Edited by Cranky Dog
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9 hours ago, Cranky Dog said:

This is where understanding the difference between paint "drying" and paint "curing" is necessary. Acrylic paint dries fast (safe to touch), particularly on minis where thin layers are the norm. But to reach maximum hardness and resistance to solvents and water, the paint needs to cure for a much longer time (varies by paint type and thickness of layers).

 

A good guide for minis is to wait 24 hours before sealing.

 

In the back of my head, a little voice said "drying isn't really the right word" but I've learned to ignore that little voice because it also says "you should go to the gym" and "spend time with your children."

 

I think the issue was that I have painted in thin layers for so long, this is a nonissue for me.  Unless it was the textured paint or pva glue I use for basing (in these cases, I usually wait a day because I'd rather wait than lift off half my basing sand).  I also put the minis in a display cabinet for many weeks before I move them to their more permanent home in the appropriate carry-box, so if there was an issue, it kinda solves itself during that time.

 

But yes, curing is the correct term.  For normal painting I will usually wait at least an hour before applying the matte coat.

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