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Buglips and Guindyloo paint DHL 02017: Scorpius Rex Dracus

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27 minutes ago, pcktlnt said:

Out of curiosity, do you two take suggestions for future paints?

 

We have a rough plan of ones we want to do picked out, but you might know of some cool figs we haven't looked at or thought of.  It's a pretty flexible schedule.  I can't guarantee when or if we will do ones you suggest, but I don't have any problem with it.

 

 

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These threads are absolute goldmines. "Thanis" has given me so many ideas for my own copy, and really motivated me to get started.

 

It's really public-spirited of both of you to put so much time and effort into this, it's an excellent advert for what so many people think of as only a hobby for nerds.

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2 hours ago, Cyradis said:

I am pretty sure have an older painted figure with some mold slippage that I failed to remove, if you want me to get a photo to demonstrate that issue. I think it happened a lot more on older models than new ones. 

That'd be cool, thanks! ^_^

 

2 hours ago, pcktlnt said:

Out of curiosity, do you two take suggestions for future paints?

Like Buglips said, we're happy to hear suggestions but can't guarantee that we'll absolutely do the specific figures suggested. But by all means, feel free to suggest things but what will be most helpful is if you additionally state why you're suggesting that figure. Sure, "I really like this figure" or "I want to paint this figure and would like to see examples" are perfectly valid reasons for making suggestions, but what would be more helpful is "Because I'd like to see how you approach spell effects" or OSL or armour or whatever. 

At the end of the day, we have to want to paint the figures because no one's going to have as good of an experience if we're not really into what we're painting, right? We won't have fun painting the figure so we won't put as much effort in and it won't be as useful for anyone. Not to mention, who wants to spend money on a figure that they don't actually like? But if you have a general reason for something that you want to see, well then maybe even if we don't do the specific figure, we might already have a figure planned where we could demonstrate whatever you're looking to see on that instead and at the very least, move that figure up on the list since there's obvious interest in something specific.

 

1 hour ago, paintybeard said:

These threads are absolute goldmines. "Thanis" has given me so many ideas for my own copy, and really motivated me to get started.

 

It's really public-spirited of both of you to put so much time and effort into this, it's an excellent advert for what so many people think of as only a hobby for nerds.

I'm so glad they've been helpful to you! Make sure you let us know when you get your Thanis painted! Better yet, do a WIP thread! ^_^

 

I wouldn't have thought that being public-spirited and nerd hobbying were mutually exclusive, but I have been very fortunate to have called the Reaper forum home from the start, so perhaps I've been a bit sheltered from less friendly hobby nerds.

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I noticed that also on some Gargoyles that I just recently did.  You can really see it on # 02039 that I posted. I left it as a "flaw" in the carving of the gargoyle before it was animated. I think it gave it a bit of character.

 

Until now, I had no clue as to what the reason was. Thanks the the "lesson". ^_^

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Alright, so with the greenstuff cured, I went ahead and did a wee bit more work on cleaning up the figure and then literally cleaned it with dish soap on an old tooth brush and warm water, then I primed him with Reaper's Brush-On primer.

2scorpius01.thumb.jpg.de85bfdfcbaae4005e50bb55cd9c6014.jpg

 

With that done, I started in how I usually start a figure - with the skin. Now I was thinking about my colour scheme for this guy the other day while I was cleaning up my desk and a particular paint jumped out at me. I haven't fully decided on the secondary colours right now, but we'll get to that.

So I used Scale75 Fantasy & Games Joryldin Turquoise and I'm going to be so sad through this whole WIP that y'all won't be able to see the true beauty of this colour.

2scorpius03.thumb.jpg.5dd914863ccfeead35a362e6b1e514b5.jpg

Sure, it looks like a really vibrant, bright blue, but in actuality, there's much more green in it. Cameras have a lot of trouble accurately portraying blues in general and especially teal and turquoise shades. I might try to colour correct at the end but it's just not realistic for me to do so on every WIP picture. So you'll just have to take my word for it at the moment that this colour is even prettier in person.

So anyway, if you've never worked with Scale75's paint before, it tends to be very thick and requires a ton of shaking before you try to use it. I have a paint shaker and I still let this paint shake for a good 30 seconds or so. Also, because they are thick, you do want to make sure that you think them a little bit even for a basecoat. As always, check the consistency before you add any water to thin as different paints will have different consistencies straight out of the bottle even within the same brand and even in a brand like Scale75 that is typically very thick.

 

Another important thing to note is that you want to think about what colour overall you're going for. If you're painting a very vibrant colour like this one, you probably want to start with your midtone, that is to say, the colour that you mostly want it to be. From the midtone we're going to paint lighter colours to highlight details and darker colours in the shadows but at the end I want the viewer's eye to perceive the dragon as being this midtone colour.

 

I also wanted to show you one of the problem areas that I knew I was going to have because I assembled the figure before painting it.

2scorpius02.thumb.jpg.031f0cd2f9266c31fab8223c8dd52797.jpg

Sure, I can get a paint brush down in there, but I'm going to have trouble applying anything with any sort of control. For the time being, I just mushed some paint in there and will deal with it further when we get more to that part.

 

So as with any figure, once I've put down my skin basecoat, I like to go ahead and paint in the eyes. So I started by painting in the entirety of the eye socket with MSP Entrail Pink.
2scorpius04.thumb.jpg.3f598cbcbbda526ccf7da23b4de61ea1.jpg

Now these eyes are very tiny for a dragon or any monster in general and you'll notice that the eyeball itself sits in this sort of hole of an eye socket rather than being a solid part of the face like you'd be more used to with most figures. I think it's an interesting look, but it also gives you a lot less space in which to work and with the overall size being very small in the first place, I had to think long and hard about what I wanted to do with these eyes. It would be very easy to overwhelm them with too much detail.

So I filled in the actual eyeball portion with Warcolours One Coat Beige, which is my usual paint for the "whites" of the eyes since you don't really want to use an actual white.

2scorpius05.thumb.jpg.ff3dba0dc45082dc39b0b40472db366a.jpg

The more I stared at his eyes, the more I thought how easily putting too much detail in there was going to muddy the look so I decided to go really simple. So I took Warcolours One Coat Black and painted in a vertical line.

2scorpius06.thumb.jpg.3723ae714788f7a21aa41aadde2bb94b.jpg

And I was pretty happy with that. The Beige has a yellowish tint to it without being too in your face yellow. Much more simple than my usual dragon eyes but I think it's pretty appropriate. So I added a dot of Warcolours One Coat White to the upper top of the outside of the eye.

2scorpius07.thumb.jpg.fdb32531e91551e6382566572cebd35b.jpg

And after a wee bit of cleanup of the blue around the eye, I called them done. 

 

Lastly I started working on the shading. It's very easy to go in too dark too quickly with your shading when you're painting very vibrant colours. A really good way to get a lot of shading impact with not too drastic of a transition is by glazing in Reaper Clear line of paints. So I created a glaze (added a bunch of water to) Reaper's Clear Blue. I loaded up my brush and then dabbed the excess moisture onto a paper towel.

2scorpius08.thumb.jpg.27ff7d6c45c7d258a3e403900262ce15.jpg

This shading is going to take a while as first I'm going to lay in the colour sort of as a sketch where I want it rather than working on one particular spot and trying to get perfect transitions.

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I also washed and primed my... bits... of dragon.

 

primed.JPG.a80408096264f284d477479751c53c74.JPG

 

I decided to do his base and feet first, since I would need that done before assembling any of the rest.  So I gave it a wash of thinned reaper Brown Liner:

 

linerwash.JPG.5cce243889e3213532d816d14ffcb228.JPG

 

For the broccoli, my first thought was to make it sort of yellowish like dead grass.  I changed this later, but at this point I used brown liner to darken up some olf reaper pro paint gnoll flesh and put it on:

 

broccgnoll.JPG.fa2284979c003a2612290ac96bf3c032.JPG

 

And now we come to a momentous (sad) day!  I have run out of my first bottle of Reaper Pro Paint.  Sadly, all of my armor gray is now gone.  So I used Ash Gray on the rock instead, since it is pretty close.  When I have a window to order paint again, I'll be trying out the MSP Armor Gray.  It should be a close enough match.  

 

rockashgray.JPG.92a9134e0c05cb9f1a4dee260472afc0.JPG

 

So... what colour is my dragon gonna be?  GREEN!  These greens (I'll be adding yellow to make lighter greens):

 

cdagreens.JPG.eba837cac7aff6cc02a170fc45e4da97.JPG

 

That Dark Elf Green turned out to be rather transparent, so I put down a layer of unthinned brown liner first.  This will prevent it looking splotchy, and it won't need a dozen coats to even out.  So I put that on the feet:

 

greenfeets.JPG.79f200e8a4cc1a265c5b5fed58ca7d46.JPG

 

I thinned some coat d'arms black down to do some lining around the feet, and that's when I decided I didn't like the gnoll flesh.  So I changed it to old pro paint troll flesh instead, which is like a really dark muddy olive:

 

trollflesh.JPG.408672d4f861b9785fecf24f2f32baed.JPG

 

Then I mixed gnoll flesh and pro paint olive to make my next layer for the broccoli.  This usually works out okay and looks pretty good, but in this case it just looked like I'd skinned a leopard and bleached it.  I decided to think on it some, and in the meanwhile to proceed with the feet.

 

broclightone.JPG.83ed13fcbb2f24eef808d64aa067fab2.JPG

 

So I used some thinned coat d'arms Bogey Green for a feet highlight:

 

greenlight.JPG.103aab87820a9a256858ddf9f071e3c5.JPG

 

I also apparently did the stone in this step, which was just pro paint granite topped off with some pro paint dove gray.  That stone method will be familiar to those of you who have followed our other WIPs.  For the feet, I added 50% yellow to my Bogey Green.  I decided to leave it there for now.  I might take it a bit highed on the yellows, but I want to work on the body first so it all matches up.

 

greenlight2.JPG.dfecf217c744084e47b0d49223384b7e.JPG

 

Then I figured out that if I used some thinned pro paint olive, I could splotch it around on the base and make it look a bit less bleached leopard.  I also painted the toenails with coat d'arms Barbarian Leather:

 

olivebase.JPG.0420a387d64b253fc457df29f9d78718.JPG

 

And then I finished off the base by doing the toenails with a midtone of coat d'arms Bone, followed by coat d'arms white:

 

toenails.JPG.92e5bf152a13294a4b32f1bfca9013d8.JPG

 

 

I'll use some brush-on sealer on that for protection, and set it aside until needed.  In the meantime I gave the body a wash of thinned brown liner to check for any errors or missed lines:

 

bodywashed.JPG.493178a93ca50333d92d0ea2a21a269d.JPG

 

Looked ok, so I gave it a nice all over coat of brown liner to prep it for my dark elf green.

 

bodyliner.JPG.307843b53dcf0a9a5b5cbae8d0fd8f78.JPG

 

 

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To complement @Guindyloo regarding mold slip - my part hidden to not detract from the overall WIP.

 



The barbarian woman is an old figure I did many years ago (who needs some touch-ups on worn off paint). Her mold slip is prominent enough for me to recall how bad it was after so much time. Along the mold seam, she has a noticeable off-set. The two blocks moved, making one side of her arm raised higher than the other. This is seen on both her arms and one of her legs. I can feel the raised portion with my finger. 

For the necromancer, instead of the disjointing happening badly on the arm, it is noticeable on everything on the staff. Her fingers are disjointed (I tried to cover that with gloss resin to an extent). You can also see that the cloth wraps on the staff don't line up like they should. She also had a large mold slip on her tattooed leg, but I was able to fix that with a blob of gloss resin to fill the seam. The fingers and the cloth were too fine of detail to fix. 

 

20180211_182901.thumb.jpg.16686fbb7adbc7c63b7b957d2789a6e8.jpg20180211_183234.thumb.jpg.a91af540dca053abfeb60e3308fb78e8.jpg20180211_183222.thumb.jpg.54d8cba7f5b59bb8d29ded56a9f96f91.jpg20180211_183202.thumb.jpg.6d650c6d36cfe6c8acf3584556496cc9.jpg20180211_183201.thumb.jpg.d43a2fe92834cd7d1d465c389c8d9d0c.jpg20180211_183112.thumb.jpg.67a7b5e993732b980933681fbc9e9fcc.jpg20180211_183040.thumb.jpg.ff05ff1294f6413dd5a6d979c0901ddb.jpg20180211_183033.thumb.jpg.4b8d77ad2def239f3d22c825e42a4ea7.jpg20180211_183006.thumb.jpg.cc2e0ebc7257c32f8cf00bd5a65cf537.jpg20180211_182939.thumb.jpg.2934c986f25b624b669251afd68426a5.jpg

20180211_182935.thumb.jpg.c4fbbc1c407602bff6fd85da939848a9.jpg

 

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Thanks, @Cyradis! Those are (unfortunately) great examples!

 

So continuing on with the shading with the glaze of MSP Clear Blue.

3scorpius01.thumb.jpg.af0bd5b31bdcfe95f35d968cf3ebd674.jpg

 

Then I took unthinned Clear Blue and deepened the darkest of the shadows, anywhere that was on the underside of the figure as my typical light source is from above ie. the sun.

3scorpius02.thumb.jpg.697010a1f060353392665b886ab80ac4.jpg

Now I might darken the shadows further, but I generally find it best to take it only to a certain point and then start working on the highlights. You don't really know how dark to take the shadows if you don't yet know how light you're going to take it. So I went ahead with mixing my first highlight layer.

 

So here's a picture of the two colours I mixed. At the top is MSP Ghostly Moss. If you have this colour, then you'll easily see how inaccurately the camera is capturing these colours. At the bottom is the Scale75 Joryldin Turquoise.

3scorpius03.thumb.jpg.eb54e5d7b9c3fe8bb372858884e82273.jpg 

I mixed the two until I felt like it was going to be light enough for what I wanted. You'll see the contaminated Ghostly Moss still at the top and then I added a little blob of the Joryldin Turquoise for comparison sake.

3scorpius04.thumb.jpg.ec714b619faadf4d514053f648141cd5.jpg

You'll notice that I've gone quite a bit lighter from the basecoat colour and normally when you layer and want to have a gradual transition from colour to colour, you want to lighten your paint far more gradually. But I don't intend to layer my highlights on this figure's skin.

 

Now this is going to be difficult to see on its own, so on the left is the untouched side of the figure and on the right is the side of the figure that I've begun to highlight.

 

3scorpius05.thumb.jpg.81fe7dcb5d845c46b29f8c1ad55496e6.jpg3scorpius06.thumb.jpg.11ec07b49b77c570ae41cd61ce18f534.jpg

 

So what I'm doing is creating extra texture on the skin. Most dragons that you're going to paint are going to have armored scales on them whereas this one has just a pebbled texture sculpted in. I wanted to strengthen that textured look. So to create that texture look, you want to take your brush and gently jab it at the surface in a totally random way. You don't want to create uniformed dots but rather random splotches.

 

So, again, here's the side I hadn't done yet on the left and the "finished" (for this layer anyway) side on the right.

3scorpius07.thumb.jpg.c688befb722dd23b7cea1b33eb6c6cfd.jpg3scorpius08.thumb.jpg.d77d143992bef2499c69f2b15a40443f.jpg

 

And then the other side "finished" for this layer.

3scorpius09.thumb.jpg.fee2a1276ff8b6715f2d1e0e31116c0b.jpg

 

And here are the wings.

3scorpius10.thumb.jpg.ac308fdf4bbf45e2259920d7152adfd5.jpg3scorpius11.thumb.jpg.ae49d45da7d912c1aad34c1edef14341.jpg

 

And lastly for the night, it's really making me sad that I can't get the pictures to show the proper colours, so I put a picture through a photo editing program to colour correct and give you a closer approximation of how these colours look in person.

3scorpius12.thumb.jpg.e2499523bd038f94795c375b8a5baab6.jpg

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There is just one minor bad side effect from these threads..

 

It makes me wanna buy every mini you guys paint!

 

FIENDS!!!

Edited by Glitterwolf
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4 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

There is just one minor bad side effect from these threads..

 

It makes me wanna buy every mini you guys paint!

 

FIENDS!!!

What a mysterious side effect. :ik_oops:

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It's a side effect I'm willing to live with, honestly; getting to see how you guys tackle these miniatures is interesting, educational and a lot of fun.

and you're painting a dragon this time, which means you are definitely doin' it right. ^.~

 

Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to sift through my dragons yet unpainted and see if I have this one....

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8 hours ago, Sylverthorne said:

 

and you're painting a dragon this time, which means you are definitely doin' it right. ^.~

 

 

No, they were supposed to do the hydra because that's coming up on my to-do list. ::P:

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Maybe the next thing. .. or they'll paint something that includes a lantern. Or ... well, whatever it is, it's likely to be good.

 

Looking forward to the next installment of the green and teal dragon twins. ^^;

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When's the faceless horror up? We could see the goblin and the moon empress paint hundreds of eyeballs :poke:

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16 hours ago, Cyradis said:

When's the faceless horror up? We could see the goblin and the moon empress paint hundreds of eyeballs :poke:

 

I've already painted one.  That's not to say it won't happen, but it probably won't be my idea.  I also painted 02923 Princess of Hell, which was actually one I'd suggested for this sort of thing.  I painted the one I had because I'd destroyed two already trying to finish one and decided not to take any risks with #3.  I'm willing to do figures a second time for illustrational purposes, but I leave another Hell Princess up to Guindy's discretion.  It's a nice piece and good to show some things with, but it's got some frail bits.  That's what makes it a good demo, to show those, but it also means there's a not-insignificant chance something will break during the WIP... and probably something not easily fixed.  But she's a beauty, so I have no regrets.

 

Short update today, I didn't get much done yesterday because I have a pinched nerve.  I finished basecoating the body with my dark elf green:

 

greenbody.JPG.a8290ab328e4a5c924fce3dc03f3c04f.JPG

 

 

While I had that out I put some green on the wings:

 

winggreen.JPG.078837ae086e78b273bd1d270c0a33c2.JPG

 

And then I darkened up some Coat D'arms Barbarian Leather with reaper brown liner to give me a shade colour for his belly:

 

bellydark.JPG.13bfa262d8a5a6223ab6caea2c5fe250.JPG

 

 

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