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Fire_Eyes

Hasslefree Argia Tholos

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2 hours ago, Queeny said:

Great job on those eyes! 

Thank you :) I had Guindyloo's fabulous eye tutorial from her and Buglips' Thanis Bonecaller thread in mind as I did them. It really helped!!!

Edited by Fire_Eyes
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LOVELY! Her shaved head & WONDERFUL eyes give her an exotic beauty. She is a BEAUTIFULLY painted AND based creation. VERY NICELY DONE!

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I’m so glad my eye tutorial was helpful! You did an awesome job! 

 

First of all, yay for trying new things! :bday:

 

I didn’t know what I was doing with the crystal on Thanis’ staff either. Try this tutorial for painting crystals - https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/250363-tutorialsimple-crystal-effect/#

It might be hard to apply to such a small crystal, but I think it’s a good overview of the principles behind painting a crystal. 

 

For the spell effect OSL you have going on, first of all I think that whatever paint you used for the glowing light wasn’t the right one. You want something more translucent, especially at the furthest points where it fades out. Thinning it more into an even lighter glaze would have helped that, but also, that paint has a lot of white in it to make it more opaque, which is why it looks a little chalky.

I could be wrong, but it looks like you might’ve used MSP Dungeon Slime?

Translucency is really key when you’re doing a light effect because light itself is never going to be opaque unless you’re looking directly at the light source, right? The sun may be a solid colour, but sun beams are only going to tint the colour of the object they fall on. Think about looking at a sidewalk on a sunny day. The concrete is still going to look like concrete whether you’re looking at a shady part or where the sunlight is falling on it, the only difference is whether it’s tinted by the light or the shade. 

Incidentally, that’s also a good concept to keep in mind for NMM as well because it’s the opacity of the reflection that sells the reflective surface. 

You also want to make sure that whatever the source of the glow is meant to be, that should be the brightest part. So rather than the solid green, you’d want to have a core of white on the runes themselves. I also think that you should probably have a translucent glaze of green in the recesses of the runes instead of so much dark showing. I’m kind of thrown off because normally you’d see runes etched into things and so the glowing part would be in the recesses. I don’t know if you painted it opposite because that’s how the roller is meant to be or what. 

 

General critique would just just be to keep working on getting smooth blends. Your highest highlight jumps a little too quickly right now. If you add a half step between that and the previous colour, it’ll add an extra step but it’ll give you a smoother transition. 

Lastly, keep your overall light source in mind. When there’s a lot of folds in fabric it can be kind of difficult to know where to accurately place shadows and highlights, but try to keep the light source consistent. It’s very natural to look at a miniature and use your eyes as the light source, so we have a tendency to put our highest highlight on whatever part pokes out the most because to our eye, that’s the highest point so it should be highlighted. The problem is, while the figure’s static, your eyes move. You’re not typically holding it straight up when you’re painting it, you’re tilting it back and creating an upper surface that wouldn’t exist if she were standing upright in person.

So don’t let your eyes be the light source. Pick somewhere that the light is coming from and be consistent with it. It’s easiest to go with a light source from directly above to mimic sunlight. If I’m having a hard time deciding if something should be highlighted or not, I look directly down at the figure and if I can see that part, then it gets that highest highlight. If I can’t see that part, it either needs to be my mid tone colour, or my shade colour if it’s recessed. 

 

Overall I think you did justice to this lovely sculpt. You did an awesome job with her eyes and the rocks you made turned out great. You really gave her a great look that really makes you wonder what her story is. To me, that’s a really important thing to be able to convey. Well done! ^_^

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Thank you everyone for your kind comments!!!!

 

On 2/14/2018 at 12:06 PM, Guindyloo said:

For the spell effect OSL you have going on, first of all I think that whatever paint you used for the glowing light wasn’t the right one. You want something more translucent, especially at the furthest points where it fades out. Thinning it more into an even lighter glaze would have helped that, but also, that paint has a lot of white in it to make it more opaque, which is why it looks a little chalky.

I could be wrong, but it looks like you might’ve used MSP Dungeon Slime?

 

I definitely see what you mean! I used Alien Goo for that brightness, but it seemed to keep that vibrancy even after I thinned it. Do you have a less white based green paint that you would recommend?

 

On 2/14/2018 at 12:06 PM, Guindyloo said:

I also think that you should probably have a translucent glaze of green in the recesses of the runes instead of so much dark showing. I’m kind of thrown off because normally you’d see runes etched into things and so the glowing part would be in the recesses. I don’t know if you painted it opposite because that’s how the roller is meant to be or what.

 

The roller actually has the knotwork popping up out of the floor, rather than etched in, which is likely the disconnect you're seeing. I tried to keep my paint flat on the top to make everything look flatter on the floor, but I'm not sure I succeeded. I also kept losing paint on one of the knots, so the middle dark bit you see was a spot I'd missed >.< my camera picked up a lot of things I hadn't seen in person.

 

On 2/14/2018 at 12:06 PM, Guindyloo said:

Lastly, keep your overall light source in mind. When there’s a lot of folds in fabric it can be kind of difficult to know where to accurately place shadows and highlights, but try to keep the light source consistent. It’s very natural to look at a miniature and use your eyes as the light source, so we have a tendency to put our highest highlight on whatever part pokes out the most because to our eye, that’s the highest point so it should be highlighted. The problem is, while the figure’s static, your eyes move. You’re not typically holding it straight up when you’re painting it, you’re tilting it back and creating an upper surface that wouldn’t exist if she were standing upright in person.

So don’t let your eyes be the light source. Pick somewhere that the light is coming from and be consistent with it. It’s easiest to go with a light source from directly above to mimic sunlight. If I’m having a hard time deciding if something should be highlighted or not, I look directly down at the figure and if I can see that part, then it gets that highest highlight. If I can’t see that part, it either needs to be my mid tone colour, or my shade colour if it’s recessed.

 

Thank you especially for this advice. Light source is something I struggle with in all of my art. I think on my next mini I'll try taking a picture from my imagined light source and see what gets exposed... and hidden... from that perspective.

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On 2/18/2018 at 2:21 PM, Fire_Eyes said:

I definitely see what you mean! I used Alien Goo for that brightness, but it seemed to keep that vibrancy even after I thinned it. Do you have a less white based green paint that you would recommend?

Sorry, I meant to get back to you on this sooner.

I made some swatches. I included Dungeon Slime just for comparison sake since it's a similar colour. The pictures aren't particularly true to colour... the first and last pictures are the exact same spot on my hand under the same light..... so either I was bitten by a vampire between the first and last pictures or this is just more evidence to my horrible, horrible picture taking. :lol:

 

IMG_4932.jpg.99b7a0a60708dd05c1117194e01bd6cc.jpg

So left to right, that's Dungeon Slime, Alien Goo and Moth Green.

 

I have waxed poetic so many times about Moth Green that I'm sure some people are tired of hearing about it, but it really is just fantastic. It's the single paint that I would recommend for this use. You can see that it's not far off from the colour of Alien Goo, but it's far more translucent with less of a white base than Alien Goo so it thins really nicely with less of a chalky look to it.

 

As much as I think that everyone should have Moth Green in their paint collection, alternatively, paints that I also think should be in everyone's arsenal are Reaper's Clear paints. They're pure pigments in a translucent suspension whereas most other paints use an opaque suspension. So the clears aren't going to be great for basecoating because they don't have that added opacity to them, but they thin down really, really well and are perfect for glazes and for tinting other colours. As such, they could be used to great effect for OSL.

 

IMG_4934.jpg.ee725e9519c5d8b0a912d470259a7e86.jpg

So left to right is Clear Green, Clear Yellow and then I mixed a little bit of the Clear Yellow into the Clear Green to make a colour closer in that glowy spectral green family.

These are unthinned swatches, and hopefully you can see how translucent they are and you can imagine how much more translucent you can make them with thinning.

 

And here's a final swatch with that Clear Yellow/Clear Green mix added to the bottom of the original swatch so you can see how it compares to the other colours.

IMG_4935.thumb.jpg.73ca0e192132641cf42c7cee33592a81.jpg

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