Jump to content

Auberon

Auberon Paints His Bones...

Recommended Posts

for a 5E game.  That's about all I can do for my WIP's theme after only one session.  Mostly it will be monsters.  Maybe I can convince the DM to tell me what's coming so I can paint it. :lol:  These are just for tabletop, but my philosophy is you should still try something new on every piece, or at least work on getting better at something you can already do.  Which is why I started a WIP I wasn't even originally going to bother with - for an experiment.

 

I was looking at the marsh troll and thinking "this would be a good candidate for glaze painting."  Now if you aren't familiar with glaze painting, it is where you prime white and then add washes/glazes of progressively darker colors.  It creates your midtone and shadows, then you go back in and add back the highlights.  You can do it for anything but it is ideal for textures.  Now Bones are white, but you can't just go over them with diluted paints.  Liner works well to prime, but then the mini is no longer white.  But wait, I have a large bottle of white craft paint that I used for some terrain.  What if I prime with liner, give it a heavy drybrush so the highlights are white again, and then glaze paint?

 

Step 1: Brown liner + a heavy drybrush of white craft paint.

 

5ad6ad3e3a110_MarshTroll01.thumb.jpg.ce1bdd72a4f5ff5831ae82bfe4aeba9f.jpg

 

Step 2: Green skin starts with yellow paint.  Here is a potential issue - the liner shifts the shadows to green.  As I want green skin this isn't an issue but it would be if I wanted my final color to be yellow.  I am also trying not to be messy as I would need to make any messes white again later.

 

5ad6ad43c6377_MarshTroll02.thumb.jpg.988d64fb814ab39e0335ada56101c1be.jpg

 

Step 3: Sap green diluted to a wash.  Now the skin is greenish.

 

5ad6ad4a1f44a_MarshTroll03.thumb.jpg.580967322bbea4594c348ca6ce1eaa0f.jpg

 

Step 4: A second wash of sap green in the shadows to add more depth.

 

5ad6ad4ea6644_MarshTroll04.thumb.jpg.328292f9f2ba3b361754be22b03a1744.jpg

 

Step 5: His highlights are still pretty yellow in hand so I made a wash of anthraquinone blue.  It will make the yellow more green and further darken the shadows.

 

5ad6ad53d5c49_MarshTroll05.thumb.jpg.af0c4cd1a5b99aa6e556c1cbc81f90f8.jpg

 

Oh, I hit his front too.  It was really blue so I started the color shift with some phthalocyanine green ink.

 

5ad6ad57b74a0_MarshTroll06.thumb.jpg.36ea3497cc46bccd9afc3a28ccc36ad2.jpg

 

Interlude: Lem.  Needed for a PC.  Must be finished by Friday.  The troll is optional.

 

5ad6ad38d05e3_Lem01.thumb.jpg.596b59735072f04f5f7b934b4e1c2848.jpg

 

Step 6:  All leather was hit with a couple of layers of burnt umber ink.

 

5ad6ad5d974d9_MarshTroll07.thumb.jpg.7a722da6cfd18367b446441d72582a47.jpg

 

Step 7:  The wood was coated with a mix of burnt umber ink and titanium white.  Some of the liner still shows through so the initial color is a little wonky in places.  Maybe it'll add texture to the wood....

 

5ad6ad62e0c58_MarshTroll08.thumb.jpg.f180fd67293dba642c4ffdf587e18028.jpg

 

Step 7: Shade the wood.  Initially I used a burnt umber ink wash, but it wasn't intense enough and would end up  looking like the leather after a few more washes.  So I used the obvious wood shadow color, dioxazine purple ink watered down to a wash.

 

5ad6ad68a57ba_MarshTroll09.thumb.jpg.cb17af9058cb17abf17e97a216771ab4.jpg

 

From the front.  His belly got a wash of the burnt umber ink while it was out.  A couple more and it would turn olive, but maybe I'll leave it bluish.  While multiple washes have smoothed it out you can still see texture from the drybrush showing through.  It's an interesting effect here but won't always be desirable.

 

5ad6ad6c113f1_MarshTroll10.thumb.jpg.492d2fee400906d2661e31c6a8f5113b.jpg

 

Step 8: Call it a night and go to bed.  I have to work and make money after all.  We can't paint all the time.  :upside:  Next update - unknown.  I really do need to finish the halfling bard before I play around anymore.

  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have completed the bard.  While he doesn't have a finished shot I took a WIP that I never posted.  Of course, the player skipped out on us so the bard's only action was to be tossed into the forest by a monster and vanishing. :rolleyes:

 

5add0424e4411_Lem04.thumb.jpg.193f64ccb75d901a197aecadce34312e.jpg

 

And back to the troll.  I squeezed in some painting between loads of laundry.  More brown for the pelt, though this time it was burnt umber washed with carbon black to make it darker than the other browns.

 

5add0428aee0e_MarshTroll11.thumb.jpg.af8c99fe022bcf8d17430ea3098219eb.jpg

 

With that its time for some highlights.  Highlights with this technique are usually an off-white made from titanium white and a touch of your base color, which is then glazed over with your midtone to smooth out the transition.  First some off-white

 

5add042d60f71_MarshTroll12.thumb.jpg.3913733b605300687f9a228dbb6f4fcf.jpg

 

and then a glaze.  You can rinse and repeat depending on how smooth you want the transition or how many levels of highlights you want.  This guy is tabletop so we won't be bothering with that, though I may add in some spot highlights in the end.

 

5add0431bf7d0_MarshTroll13.thumb.jpg.79bd803e9d2d48574428c093b9e5818a.jpg

 

Some very white side brushing and edge lining on his stegosaurus spine plates.  It is fairly harsh under the painting lights but less so under general room lighting.  Still, most people would likely throw a glaze over the top  of it.

 

5add043566a30_MarshTroll14.thumb.jpg.2ab71b25ceba58f93a2b0defb79b31f2.jpg

 

I then did the same thing for the green and brown leather.  Once again, only one glaze as we want fast, not perfetc.

 

5add043abaed7_MarshTroll15.thumb.jpg.2217ae7d2a6b6b2890b54109b564d489.jpg5add043e823d3_MarshTroll16.thumb.jpg.9704c6c0979a09ee3b04cd7a43ff687e.jpg

 

Time to eat.

  • Like 15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 The face on the bard is outstanding ... mischief,  in the corner of his smile and treachery is in his eyes ... you might be better off without him ...

 

 Last pick up D&D game I was in included a gnome Rouge who's only goal was to cause trouble and grief the party ... about half way through the second session I thumped his noggin, tied him up and the party played hacky sac with him till he was severely subdued,  I then informed him he would be released once he stopped trying to get the party killed ... he did not come back ... hope you have better luck with your group.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/22/2018 at 5:41 PM, Boaz said:

 The face on the bard is outstanding ... mischief,  in the corner of his smile and treachery is in his eyes ... you might be better off without him ...

 

 Last pick up D&D game I was in included a gnome Rouge who's only goal was to cause trouble and grief the party ... about half way through the second session I thumped his noggin, tied him up and the party played hacky sac with him till he was severely subdued,  I then informed him he would be released once he stopped trying to get the party killed ... he did not come back ... hope you have better luck with your group.

 

While I'd like to take credit for that face, the smile is sculpted on.  I think most painters are able to achieve a reasonable amount of mischief with him.  :;):

 

The end is approaching, but first we need to paint the base.  It will be a marshy base for a marsh troll, and so we start with the most marshy of marshy colors..

 

5adfce44a2b4d_MarshTroll17.thumb.jpg.9cc2343cb48a29e89076a57b6d6fb51b.jpg

 

Don't worry, it will all make sense in the end!  Next a blue ink wash and a green ink wash.  The blue is mostly in the water while the green mostly on the earth.

 

5adfce49b962a_MarshTroll18.thumb.jpg.6181ce7a5f792558c09a8c36f67858c5.jpg

 

Then the earth gets a white drybrush followed by some burnt umber ink.

 

5adfce4ee5b5e_MarshTroll19.thumb.jpg.a2cd78d335656d3623a32ac1fd89e326.jpg

 

Soon I'll be adding water effects, so I want to dullcote first.  Ink is glossy so it can be hard to see what's what with the glare.  Here he is after a bit of dulling down.

 

5adfce52d0819_MarshTroll20.thumb.jpg.c5d419dd2d1b9426201d225015f7c779.jpg5adfce5722b1b_MarshTroll21.thumb.jpg.a05f2fc44d8fe707dfeaa17685b79630.jpg

 

And now his water effects need to cure for 24 hours so you'll have to wait to see how the base actually turned out.

  • Like 15

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The game has hit a bit of hiatus with players being sent out of town for work, or surgery (not me) but I'm still slowly painting.  Next some potentially useful monsters, the spikeshell warriors.  Some of these artist paints get fairly translucent pretty quickly but I decided to make the attempt at painting over black.  These have the same paints, but I drybrushed over one of them with white paint first.  The black base just took too many layers to be efficient for quick tabletop painting.

 

5aebae4e104bd_SpikeshellWarriors1.thumb.jpg.dd82618e990be6bfc7d7a1de1684ec96.jpg

 

My wood paint covered much better though, so the wood looks good over black or white.  I drybrushed the base before painting their toe claws.  I usually don't mix painted dirt and painted grass but decided to give it a go.

 

5aebae5023264_SpikeshellWarriors2.thumb.jpg.421ba53d97ebc04350bb8a6324729cf8.jpg5aebae5396865_SpikeshellWarriors3.thumb.jpg.1d3bf2cc6120832e79dd7232733611f5.jpg

 

Were I to get ambitious I could finish these off in short order.

  • Like 12

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The light to dark spikeshell warrior is pretty well done, but my dark to light never doing this again with Golden fluid acrylics on a tabletop mini warrior needs some lighter green and its shield painted.  First the sap green was highlighted with indian yellow; I didn't really pay attention to the sculpted texture and just applied the paint.  It took about three coats to get this coverage.

 

5aede89016149_SpikeshellWarriors4.thumb.jpg.e05b4bd895797f380308a94eab55cac5.jpg

 

For more highlighting primary yellow was added next. 

 

5aede8940aeb1_SpikeshellWarriors5.thumb.jpg.de94d760498b0480bdc78bdd3561288f.jpg

 

And then it was given a wash of sap green to try and even the colors out.  The shield has been given a base of red paint.  Given that red generally takes a lot of coats to cover well I think I'll forgo dark to light here. I'll just paint my highlights. and then wash the color back down.

 

5aede897d7133_SpikeshellWarriors6.thumb.jpg.e158312810523f0659e5132d200cb394.jpg

 

The end is near.

  • Like 13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time for another experiment.  While I have been using brown liner for awhile because it works pretty well on Bones, it does have the downside of being brown.  Drybrushing white onto the troll worked pretty well, but also added in an extra step.  Then I though, these Golden paints seem fairly resilient, perhaps they stick to Bones well enough on their own.  So I "primed" the mini with titanium white to see how it would work.  Next I made a wash of raw sienna and went over what I will designate earthy sections on my base.  After two passes the paint started to show off the sculpted texture and held up to a light fingernail test.

 

5af255fc79c2d_Goremaw01.thumb.jpg.8a0092bdbf23f489502e6e7355ed5e01.jpg

 

Next I washed the outer portion with burnt sienna and the inner portion with raw umber.  It makes the newly upturned earth darker, but that part is also going to be mostly covered anyway.  Then it all got a wash of raw umber ink.

 

5af256000e490_Goremaw02.thumb.jpg.8aeeaed29402b5ec4c9e01a1b9ba093b.jpg

 

And then the rocks were drybrushed with cheap craft paint.  It works for terrain.

 

5af25603bdc57_Goremaw03.thumb.jpg.b767af7f2f7b6776f5234e1d8fc6d838.jpg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see the image upload function was repaired while I was out of town.  I didn't take any paints with me as I knew I wouldn't get around to any hobby work, so these were all taken before I headed out.  First, priming with Titanium White.  It's a boring pic but I took it initially just to test how the upload was working.

 

1151331377_Goremaw04.thumb.jpg.3c0a3cfd051bc687be10b881573c87b2.jpg

 

Exciting.  Next, some Cerulean Blue ink.  I had missed a few spots, and the ink in no way sticks to Bones material.  It needed two passes to get complete coverage.

 

639728071_Goremaw05.thumb.jpg.d24aef1c6fbe8ede50a2e5b6d85233af.jpg

 

This was shaded with a wash of magenta paint.  Before painting everything and then deciding I didn't like it I tackled one column of scales first.

 

1815079715_Goremaw06.thumb.jpg.56e43c070027dff1a40095994c463cf5.jpg

 

Next a wash of crimson paint.  It's darker than the magenta, but not quite dark enough.  Of course, the glossy reflections don't help with seeing the shadows either.

 

347447442_Goremaw07.thumb.jpg.02505f49bd96874f4a542aa306c4dddf.jpg

 

Next I reestablished the blue. I had been doing some rough two-brush blending to keep from forming too harsh of a transition between the colors, but it still needed some smoothing out.

 

1292344976_Goremaw08.thumb.jpg.220e7dac17e52c93f70c8050716f348b.jpg

 

And lastly I mixed some titanium white into my blue ink to create a highlight color.  It would look better with a more controlled application using a better brush, but this is all about speed.

 

2038101153_Goremaw09.thumb.jpg.6f4d65869adeea399e390817176f5cb4.jpg

 

And now to repeat over the rest of the mini.

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, this was my entry in Reaper's Facebook Paint Your Giant contest. 77178, Fire Giant Warrior, Dark Heaven Bones model sculpted by Jason Wiebe. It is mounted on a 74027, Ruins Vignette Base, a resin base sculpted by Patrick Keith. This model is huge, 7cm high and 13cm wide with the sword. I did some minor conversion on it.   A heavy thundering sound come crushing down the ruined hall. You see orange and red lights dancing between the pillar supporting the stone roof. In the glimpse of a moment, all hell break loose as a dark skin colossus burst from the rubbles wielding a towering incandescent blade. He lands next to you smashing the large tiles of the floor. You are paralyzed in fear as he turns gazing in your direction with fire in his eyes. Desperate, you wonder if you've gone too far exploring this ancient Undermountain realm.                    
    • By Weird-O
      For my upcoming Dragon Age campaign.
       
      I thought they looked like they need to pee, but a buddy elsewhere described them as Bone Strippers, and now I can't unsee that.

    • By Weird-O
      Painted up as a Chantry Sister for an upcoming Dragon Age campaign.

    • By Darcstaar
      This was my entry for the Reaper Fan Facebook Page Paint Your Giants Contest.
      This is the biggest thing I ever painted not on a canvas.
      The last time I entered one of these, I felt like it would have done better if the base told more of a story, so that is what I tried to achieve with this one.
      I wanted it to portray REVENGE!
      The Jarl had his left eye gouged out by a young upstart white dragon.  He healed, regrouped, and hunted down the dragon to enact his revenge.
      I hope you like it.
      The final results have now been posted.  He placed 4th behind some mind-blowing work.
       

       
      I wanted some orange on the model to play against the blue skin, for color theory.
      Originally, it was going to be glowing runes on the rock and skulls, but I abandoned that for the sake of time/completion.
      I settled with orange tones in the leather.
       
       
       
      I wasn't really sure how to get the TMM of the crown to look like a gouge, or how to make his blue skin look like a scar.
      I'm not entirely sold on the result, but I'm sure I'll try again some day on a different model.
       
      The Monster Manual suggests blue skin with white/gray/dirty blonde hair is the usual coloration.  I tried to go to full white for the highlights of the face to make it the focal point.
       

       
      I wanted him to look like he was wearing a polar bear pelt, and that all the fur trim was also polar bear.
       


      I tried to make it look a little muddy on the bottom, and on his shoes.
       
       This was how I wanted to weather the inside of the bear skin, to make it look like it had that dried cracked appearance.  Not sure how well it shows up in the picture.
       
       
       
      These were some WIP shots.  The black and white was to figure out how to highlight the sword.
      I wanted the sword and stone items to look like shiny flint.  I hit the sword and most of the other stone items with high gloss varnish to help sell the effect.
       
       
      The front and back of the sword.
       
      Finally, some more details of the base and the white dragon victim.
       


       

       

       
      I wanted to base the dragon as a purple in the recesses, similar to the effect going on on the cover of Hoard of the Dragon Queen module.
      This was the BONES Temple Dragon I sacrificed.  He is smaller, but his tongue sticks out perfectly to sell the dead dragon effect.  And he's not as expensive to replace as Deathsleet!
      I pained his eyes half-rolled into his head to complete the idea.  I tried to freehand some anatomy on there: vertebral body, muscle groups, esophagus, carotid arteries/jugular veins.
      I also tried to be accurate with the blood spray coming from both arteries, and didn't want to go too crazy with the gore.  Finally, I wanted it to look like his hot blood had melted some of the snow.
       
      Overall, this was a wild ride.  The early part of the contest saw him at #2.  Then he gave up some ground and sat at #3 for a long time.
      Then another Frost Giant (Queen) made a great surge at the end to unseat me out of #3 into 4th place.
       
      To be honest, there were so many awesome paint jobs, I'm just humbled and honored to be in the top 20.
      Thanks for looking.
      C&C Welcome.
       
    • By Cygnwulf
      Everyone, meet Viridius.  

      He's a hefty boi.  No Ma'al or Kalladrax, but still pretty big. He doesn't even fit in my light box, as you can see.   
      I've thought a long time about how I was going to paint him up, I don't think I'm going to go with the standard green dragon look.  Instead I'm going to take my inspiration from the time of year, and make him an autumn forest dragon, whose coloration changes with the forest around him.   So I'll be doing him in mostly golden yellows to oranges and reds, but keeping some greenish tones as the base of scales and other places, to kind of give a reminder of the verdent glory he was before.
       
      One thing I'm choosing to see as an opportunity is that the tops of his wings are very smooth, ideal for some freehand work.  The question is, what to do?  Some kind of leaf like pattern, or perhaps a butterfly like eye pattern (in the leaf colors, of course)
       
      Out of the box bag he was in pretty good shape.  The usual mold line cleanup, though he has some gaps that will need to be filled.  I followed up with reshaping the wings a little with some boiling water.  I forgot to get a complete before picture, but below you can see the before and after for the right wing


       
      I've had to fully assemble him, I don't like the way the wing joins look without greenstuff, so that's going to be the first order of business.  So painting around the wings might be a chore, but it's nothing I haven't dealt with before (Although, not in recent history)

       
      I begain the gapfill on the right side, but after sticking a finger in greenstuff twice and having to flip him back to touch up the texture, I decided to call it a night and do the left side gaps later.

       
       
       
       
       
       
       
  • Who's Online   12 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×