Jump to content

SparrowMarie

Sparrow paints Ma'al Drakkar (not in 7 days)

Recommended Posts

Well, I'm finally doing it. I'm going to start painting Ma'al. I think I've gotten enough figured out with Mini Ma'al that I can start. At the very least I'm going to start prepping him for painting...that might take a while. Blue liner and mold line removal are first! Not going to boil him because I can live with the slight bend in the wing(maybe, we'll see how I feel before I liner that wing.) Probably won't post more pictures until after I've linered him. 

 

0527181123_Signature.thumb.jpg.c944ee0ad799ea64add091401c325c89.jpg

Edited by SparrowMarie
  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure on removing it, but you might be able to smooth it out with green stuff or something similar.

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, Gargs said:

Not sure on removing it, but you might be able to smooth it out with green stuff or something similar.

 

If a super sharp new xacto blade isn't doing it right, I'd try smoothing it out with gloss resin. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Cyradis said:

 

If a super sharp new xacto blade isn't doing it right, I'd try smoothing it out with gloss resin. 

 

Probably need to change the blade on my xacto. Will try that tomorrow.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bones is awful with a dull blade unlike metal which can be burnished. Sharp should help a lot. May still want resin ready to smooth harsh cuts though. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Cyradis said:

Bones is awful with a dull blade unlike metal which can be burnished. Sharp should help a lot. May still want resin ready to smooth harsh cuts though. 

 

What kind of resin would I need? I've not really had the problem of a mold line like this that I absolutely can't live with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, SparrowMarie said:

Any ideas on how to remove this mold line?

0527181839.thumb.jpg.bda8e604b54e85fc4692ba3a7585cbc4.jpg

Best tool I found was an electric jewelry rotary tool I found at Michael's. With the right point, you can smooth it out pretty nicely and even resurface other edges. Though admittedly, this wing is a bit more challenging.

 

It's what I used to clean up large pieces like Kaladrax.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Image result for vallejo paint gloss resin

 

It is thick and will obstruct detail - in this case, use it to smooth out mold lines or harsh trimmed edges. Not perfect, but it has helped a ton. My demoness had a big ol' mold line on her left leg near her crotch that I just couldn't get to with a file or xacto without risking damage, but I was able to smooth it to normalcy with a few layers of this. Then paint on top of it. 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

I believe that @Guindyloo uses 'Ardcoat or some such to go over the mold line until it's level with everything else, but she'd be able to explain it better than I could.

Yes, I use 'Ardcoat and in fact, used 'Ardcoat for the exact wing moldline in question. I use 'Ardcoat because it is specifically what Jessica Rich suggested to me, but it is my understanding that any thick, glossy brush-on sealer will work.

What you want to do is glob it on along the moldline (but be careful around smaller details that you don't want to obliterate) and then drag it out so that it thins as you get further away. Basically, you want to fill in on either side of the ridge to make a smooth bump. Let it dry for a good 10 minutes, then take whatever your base paint is and paint over it. Let that dry and see how it looks. You will most likely need to repeat the process a few times.

I remember that particular mold line was pretty nasty; I looked back through my 7 day WIP thread to see if I made note of it but it doesn't appear that I did, but I do remember that I was able to take care of it with 'Ardcoat.

 

ETA: I think I brushed on the 'Ardcoat vertically with the ridges for this particular mold line so as not to fill in the spaces in between the ridges. If you build the layers slowly and make your globs very tight up against the moldline itself it will likely take more layers, but you will lose less detail.

Edited by Guindyloo
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going to get the base coat on the whole body down before I do another layer of red. Why I decided on yellow over blue liner I couldn't tell you... Still needs a few layers.

 

15281463929723504465535983320708.thumb.jpg.99c0052e6cb3b06479587090aee1dd83.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am trying to hide the mold lines, found a few others that could use doing before I continue much more on the body. I swear I boiled that wing...

 

15281551434589031561773746277018.thumb.jpg.39313d270c28c4fab20116afd7c55fda.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I planned on painting then assembling but I'm finding son big gaps that I'm not sure I can live with. So I'm working on the base. It'll be pretty simple stone with some mossy bits.

 

15282409076382373130888862126754.thumb.jpg.77250f241efc489a98e0492e1c7a30ee.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, this was my entry in Reaper's Facebook Paint Your Giant contest. 77178, Fire Giant Warrior, Dark Heaven Bones model sculpted by Jason Wiebe. It is mounted on a 74027, Ruins Vignette Base, a resin base sculpted by Patrick Keith. This model is huge, 7cm high and 13cm wide with the sword. I did some minor conversion on it.   A heavy thundering sound come crushing down the ruined hall. You see orange and red lights dancing between the pillar supporting the stone roof. In the glimpse of a moment, all hell break loose as a dark skin colossus burst from the rubbles wielding a towering incandescent blade. He lands next to you smashing the large tiles of the floor. You are paralyzed in fear as he turns gazing in your direction with fire in his eyes. Desperate, you wonder if you've gone too far exploring this ancient Undermountain realm.                    
    • By Weird-O
      For my upcoming Dragon Age campaign.
       
      I thought they looked like they need to pee, but a buddy elsewhere described them as Bone Strippers, and now I can't unsee that.

    • By Weird-O
      Painted up as a Chantry Sister for an upcoming Dragon Age campaign.

    • By Darcstaar
      This was my entry for the Reaper Fan Facebook Page Paint Your Giants Contest.
      This is the biggest thing I ever painted not on a canvas.
      The last time I entered one of these, I felt like it would have done better if the base told more of a story, so that is what I tried to achieve with this one.
      I wanted it to portray REVENGE!
      The Jarl had his left eye gouged out by a young upstart white dragon.  He healed, regrouped, and hunted down the dragon to enact his revenge.
      I hope you like it.
      The final results have now been posted.  He placed 4th behind some mind-blowing work.
       

       
      I wanted some orange on the model to play against the blue skin, for color theory.
      Originally, it was going to be glowing runes on the rock and skulls, but I abandoned that for the sake of time/completion.
      I settled with orange tones in the leather.
       
       
       
      I wasn't really sure how to get the TMM of the crown to look like a gouge, or how to make his blue skin look like a scar.
      I'm not entirely sold on the result, but I'm sure I'll try again some day on a different model.
       
      The Monster Manual suggests blue skin with white/gray/dirty blonde hair is the usual coloration.  I tried to go to full white for the highlights of the face to make it the focal point.
       

       
      I wanted him to look like he was wearing a polar bear pelt, and that all the fur trim was also polar bear.
       


      I tried to make it look a little muddy on the bottom, and on his shoes.
       
       This was how I wanted to weather the inside of the bear skin, to make it look like it had that dried cracked appearance.  Not sure how well it shows up in the picture.
       
       
       
      These were some WIP shots.  The black and white was to figure out how to highlight the sword.
      I wanted the sword and stone items to look like shiny flint.  I hit the sword and most of the other stone items with high gloss varnish to help sell the effect.
       
       
      The front and back of the sword.
       
      Finally, some more details of the base and the white dragon victim.
       


       

       

       
      I wanted to base the dragon as a purple in the recesses, similar to the effect going on on the cover of Hoard of the Dragon Queen module.
      This was the BONES Temple Dragon I sacrificed.  He is smaller, but his tongue sticks out perfectly to sell the dead dragon effect.  And he's not as expensive to replace as Deathsleet!
      I pained his eyes half-rolled into his head to complete the idea.  I tried to freehand some anatomy on there: vertebral body, muscle groups, esophagus, carotid arteries/jugular veins.
      I also tried to be accurate with the blood spray coming from both arteries, and didn't want to go too crazy with the gore.  Finally, I wanted it to look like his hot blood had melted some of the snow.
       
      Overall, this was a wild ride.  The early part of the contest saw him at #2.  Then he gave up some ground and sat at #3 for a long time.
      Then another Frost Giant (Queen) made a great surge at the end to unseat me out of #3 into 4th place.
       
      To be honest, there were so many awesome paint jobs, I'm just humbled and honored to be in the top 20.
      Thanks for looking.
      C&C Welcome.
       
    • By Cygnwulf
      Everyone, meet Viridius.  

      He's a hefty boi.  No Ma'al or Kalladrax, but still pretty big. He doesn't even fit in my light box, as you can see.   
      I've thought a long time about how I was going to paint him up, I don't think I'm going to go with the standard green dragon look.  Instead I'm going to take my inspiration from the time of year, and make him an autumn forest dragon, whose coloration changes with the forest around him.   So I'll be doing him in mostly golden yellows to oranges and reds, but keeping some greenish tones as the base of scales and other places, to kind of give a reminder of the verdent glory he was before.
       
      One thing I'm choosing to see as an opportunity is that the tops of his wings are very smooth, ideal for some freehand work.  The question is, what to do?  Some kind of leaf like pattern, or perhaps a butterfly like eye pattern (in the leaf colors, of course)
       
      Out of the box bag he was in pretty good shape.  The usual mold line cleanup, though he has some gaps that will need to be filled.  I followed up with reshaping the wings a little with some boiling water.  I forgot to get a complete before picture, but below you can see the before and after for the right wing


       
      I've had to fully assemble him, I don't like the way the wing joins look without greenstuff, so that's going to be the first order of business.  So painting around the wings might be a chore, but it's nothing I haven't dealt with before (Although, not in recent history)

       
      I begain the gapfill on the right side, but after sticking a finger in greenstuff twice and having to flip him back to touch up the texture, I decided to call it a night and do the left side gaps later.

       
       
       
       
       
       
       
  • Who's Online   10 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×