Jump to content


Recommended Posts

I have some minis I want to pin (or attempt to, have never done it before). I have wire, tons of paper clips, and am going to acquire some brass rod soon. But my question is about the clippers. I know I shouldn't use my sprue cutters for most things beyond plastics, resin, and other things like those. 

 

So my question is what kind of clippers (cutters?) Do I need to cut the metal bits down to size? I don't want to ruin my good clippers by cutting something too hard. I saw some in the jewelry section at Michael's but wasn't sure they'd hold up in the long run since it said it cuts soft wire and thread.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any sort of diagonal cutters from the hardware store should work fine on most wires. For that matter, if you have the usual sort of needle-nose pliers, there's a pretty good chance the included wire cutter will work just fine.

 

If you want to use music wire (which is hardened steel and which is really overkill for pinning), you'll need something like lineman's pliers. Hardened wires will notch the jaws of most diagonal cutters.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use hardened diagonal pliers for cutting paperclips, and only use my nice flush cutters for sprues. My pin cutting pliers are smaller than the one shown in the wiki link though. Had them for at least 18 years. It's a little beat up but never fails to cut pinning wire. I also have a dented flush cutter that I use to cut brass rod. If I use the diagonal pliers on thin brass rod, it sometimes bends the rod. 

 

I use three cutters for different things:

1. diagonal pliers to cut hard wire like paperclips

2. old dented flush cutters to cut soft brass rods

3. sharp newer flush cutters for sprues

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, SparrowMarie said:

I have some minis I want to pin (or attempt to, have never done it before). I have wire, tons of paper clips, and am going to acquire some brass rod soon. But my question is about the clippers. I know I shouldn't use my sprue cutters for most things beyond plastics, resin, and other things like those. 

 

So my question is what kind of clippers (cutters?) Do I need to cut the metal bits down to size? I don't want to ruin my good clippers by cutting something too hard. I saw some in the jewelry section at Michael's but wasn't sure they'd hold up in the long run since it said it cuts soft wire and thread.

 You are right about the jewelry clippers. They are only good for soft metals.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Nightwing
      Here are 4 twisted wire trees I made. Three of them use moss from a craft store package, one used Woodland Scenics foliage. They all use Vallejo Earth Texture, Woodland Scenics scrubery, and Army Painter Lowland Shrubs. 
       
       




       
      Here is is an average wizard under a tree for size reference: 
       

    • By Pingo
      I recently got the set 06173: Shadow Sisters. It consists of four of the figure on the left and five of the one on the right.

       
      Only,  that’s not quite what they look like. The figure on the right has an extra cape piece.
       
      The figure on the left has lacing up the middle seam of her cape. The figure on the right’s cape has a similar seam right at its edge and there is a separate cape piece (not depicted) of another half of the cape.
       
      There is a little nubbin to affix the cape which goes into a little socket in her left shoulder. It looks like it could be a precarious pinning job.
       
      The cape piece looks like it could possibly be glued in from a variety of angles, from matching the seam of the integrated cape to flying dramatically back. I tried to find out the official position, only to find that in the store photo above the second cape piece is not included.
       
      May I ask, what was the original artist’s intent for the second cape piece?
    • By Shindoku
      Hello everyone, I'm new to the whole miniature hobby as a whole and I was wondering if anyone had tips on how to pin Tobias Winterhorn's arm better. I used CA glue and a paper clip, but the arm has fallen off quite a few times now. The one I own currently is primed and painted now and is going to be used on tabletop for my Pathfinder game as on of my players characters, but I was wondering for the future when I buy another for myself (and possibly when the painted one meets an inevitable accident). Even if you are unfamiliar with this mini, tips on a stronger pinning bond would be appreciated. 

    • By terminalmancer
      I just got Bombshell Babes 2 and look at all of those tiny tiny hands, so very separate from their arms!
       
      I've had a lot of trouble with tiny hands on tiny miniatures... they're far too big for my big fat fingers to hold steady while drilling and they seem to break off at the slightest touch if I don't pin them.
       
      How do you guys usually pin tiny hands?
       
      Disclosure: I usually use minis for gaming, soooo.... they're gonna get handled. And not always nicely.
    • By Pingo
      Note:  This was not inspired by anything I bought from Reaper, but another company.
       
      Note also:  Sculpting and casting is not my art.  It is entirely possible that I am being thoroughly ignorant about this and it is already a solved problem.
       
      ***
       
      Occasionally one will run into a miniature in a particular pose popular at the moment, with two arms stretched straight out front, generally holding long range combat weapons.
       
      In such cases it seems to be pretty common to cast the arms as separate pieces to be attached to the rest of the model at the shoulders.
       
      This is, I gather, is because of the nature of moldmaking.  Pieces seem to need to be not too far from flat to release from the mold properly, so a complex shape is often broken down into simpler shapes to be assembled after molding.
       
      But casting the arms separately makes for a very difficult and delicate attaching job, involving balance and cussing and tiny drills and wire (and that last is especially difficult if the figure is, say, a woman with tiny, thin arms).
       
      This results in a fragile miniature, difficult to handle and play with.
       
      This strikes me as inefficient.  Surely there are better ways to put together a human figure.
       
      May I suggest a different way of thinking about dividing up the figure for molding?
       
      The problem here is the arms, which are long, thin, horizontal structures with only a single attachment point which needs to bear their weight and any stress put on them from handling.
       
      But what if they had built-in support?
       
      If a figure in that pose were composed of two pieces, one the body from the armpits down and one the head, shoulders, and arm assembly, it seems to me it would be less fiddly and more sturdy.
       
      If the arms and head were a single piece it would still be relatively flat for casting, something of a flat "U" shape, but it seems to me it would be much easier to glue and structurally much stronger than separate arms are.
       
      ***
       
      (Note again, sculpture and casting are not my arts.  Am I being naive here?  Would the difficulty of dividing up the sculpture and the possibility of weirdly placed gaps outweight the convenience and stability?)
       
       
       
       
  • Who's Online   34 Members, 3 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×