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Its know that green stuff epoxy is probably one of the best items for base stamping but i wanted to do a quick experiment to see if you could use contour putty in a pinch if you needed to stamp a base. and here are the initial results. base on upper left is hand done using a side of a mtg card and pen tip the rest are using happy seppuku grass, flagstone, and steel plating stamps. 

Putty used: Squadron green contour putty

Side note: If you have never used this type of putty one of the problem is that it drys out really fast and becomes crumbly but this can be alleviated by keeping it damp with acetone nail polish remover this will also help in smoothing out the putty, but it does get a bit messy so use a tool or gloves to keep your hands for getting green.

 

Results: Yes in a pinch it will take a stamp and basic carving however, I would say only use it for rough textures like the flagstone.

Steal plating: came out ok but the putty did not take one of the deck bolts though that also might have been due to me not applying even pressure and I had to smooth it out with the acetone.

Grass texture: worked however it will get stuck on to the stamp easily  but some isopropyl alcohol and water will clean it up. more of a pain then anything else. 

Flagstone texture: did not really have any problems, a little soft in the detail but that area on the stamp is soft detail.

 

I'm going to let these dry for now and then test paint them. they should take the paint fine but I'm worried that the grass texture is going to flake off when dry brushing, but we shall see. 

basetest.jpg

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On 8/31/2018 at 5:29 PM, Ducknuck84 said:

Its know that green stuff epoxy is probably one of the best items for base stamping ....

 

I disagree with that assessment. Green stuff is too springy for crisp details when using a silicone stamping mold, IME. I prefer to use softer putties like Magic Sculp or Apoxie Sculpt for base stamping. In addition to being softer, you can also use water as a mold release with those putties, which makes them pretty easy to work with in that application.

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Doug,

 

How would you go about using water? Dunk it or pour it on??

 

Base stamping is something I'd like to try in the near future. So any help would be appreciated.

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1 hour ago, haldir said:

Doug,

 

How would you go about using water? Dunk it or pour it on??

 

Base stamping is something I'd like to try in the near future. So any help would be appreciated.

 

I spray the water onto the mold and then spread it a bit. That seems to keep the putty from sticking.

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I agree on the Apoxie Sculpt and Magic Sculpt... I've had much better results with them than greenstuff. 

 

Best results I've had are from a mix of Apoxie Sculpt and Greenstuff though ^_^

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I just dunk my texture-stamp in water before applying it to Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculp, and that's fine for stamps with really shallow textures (e.g., all I wanted was a rough pavement surface with some cracks, a flagstone pattern, or a simple wood-grain).  HOWEVER, if I want the sharpest, finest details, whether it's for green stuff, brown stuff, or any of the creatively-spelled two-part putties, nothing beats letting the putty cure in the mold (or against the textured surface) before removing it. 

 

For this purpose, I'll take a much larger sample of a textured surface, then stick some putty on a few pennies or on flat-top surfaces of 25mm round bases (slot covered up with cardstock) and then jam them against a texture surface, carefully trim excess putty from around the edges, and then just let it sit like that for a few hours.

 

Of course that takes longer, and that's not quite what you'd envision from "stamping" it, but it works around the "springy" nature of a thin layer of green-stuff ribbon putty, and against the tendency of the Apoxie/Magic-Sculp(t) putty to lose tiny "crumbs" at sharp corners.

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