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I know we've had debates about what is the best way prime bones, if at all, but I don't recall what is the best way to clear coat them, so, opinions please!

 

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I use both Testor's Dull & Krylon Matte Coat & both work just like a metal mini. I think as long as your covering the paint, you can treat it like any other mini.

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Same way I do with my metal ones.  Crystal Clear gloss and then Dulcote.  Seems to be holding up to regular gaming use. 

 

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RMS Brush-on as well, but I spray it on with my airbrush.  My models don't see game play.

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On 9/18/2018 at 4:35 PM, Clearman said:

RMS Brush-on as well, but I spray it on with my airbrush.  My models don't see game play.

Do you think it to run through your airbrush?  Or does it work fine straight from the bottle?

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38 minutes ago, Dilvish the Deliverer said:

Do you think it to run through your airbrush?  Or does it work fine straight from the bottle?

 

I do thin to the same consistency as any paint, but the sealer doesn't require quite as much.  

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Liquitex Matte Varnish works really well for me.  I can also thin it about 2:1 with clean water and spray it through my brush when I'm in the mood.

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Reaper's brush-on sealer, because I'm lazy and have that stuff around. 

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I do it the same way I do metal minis: 2 coats gloss, then a coat of matte (or satin, depending on the look in going for). Haven't had any issues with metal or bones.

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On Tuesday, September 18, 2018 at 3:06 PM, buglips*the*goblin said:

I absolutely love Reaper's brush-on sealer.  I buy so much of it I'm sure they must be thinking I'm drinking it by now.

 

I'd just like to add that my extreme loyalty to the Reaper sealer is because I put it on three metal models that endured the violence of a fire hose, then banged around loose together in a bag, then each got a repurposed CAV blister but otherwise no protection, banged around in those in my carry-on for two weeks and *still* got almost a silver at RCon without any touch-up at all.

 

I think that counts as a durability pass.  

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I don't bother. What I find most important to do with Bones is to store and transport them in such a way that they aren't rubbing up against each other a lot, since I've seen that demonstrated to scratch paint. I also try to pick a method so that thin parts aren't being bent to and fro very much. The plastic can handle that no problem, but eventually paint will start chipping off from the stress points, and I don't see that being something that sealer would help with. 

 

So basically my ideal is something like a piece of bubble wrap on the bottom of a container, layer of Bones, bubble wrap, etc. Sort of a Bones lasagna if you will, and then enough padding on the top layer that things aren't rolling around much. Even just wrapping them in Saran Wrap style plastic would probably be enough to take care of the rubbing together concern, but might exacerbate the movement of thin parts issue.

There was no sealer on any of the figures that I tested in the linked FAQ threads. (Since I was at the time testing durability of primers and other starting options.)

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I do a couple coats of Testor's gloss coat to protect.  And then a layer of Testor's dull coat over top to knock back the shine.  My figures used at the gaming table take abuse and never had a problem with paint coming off.  And if they start to look shiny again, then can get another spray of dull coat.

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