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I'm slowly working through all my minis up on corks. This one is a hero character fig from the third Star Hat Miniatures kickstarter. I guess I’m happy enough at how its come out at least as far as I just do simple paint jobs to tabletop. The fig is metal and had an intrinsic base that I extended out with some poorly applied greenstuff, and made the skull at the same time.
I know what you are saying...another WIP by Jasper? It will never get finished, just like all his other WIPs!
This is likely true (the first step is admitting you have a problem) but the difference here is I'm not painting these guys currently. I will eventually....in theory, but that's not why I'm starting the WIP.
So, if you are unfamiliar, or just don't know the name of the book series, A Song of Ice and Fire is the name of the fairly obscure book series they made into that niche little TV series they have to stick on Sunday nights, A Game of Thrones.
CMoN worked with Dark Sword Miniatures (I expect there were some licensing reasons as DSM has made some spectacular Martin approved figures from the series in the past) to produce a full blown tabletop game based on the books (not the show, so don't expect Tyrion to look like Peter Dinklage). This is a full traditional type tabletop game, with units, movement trays, etc. Not what I'm used to with CMoN, but they seem to have done a pretty good job with it, and are backing it up with new armies and units coming out any time now.
Of course, being CMoN AND Game of Throne, the kickstarter did pretty well, and the number of figs that came were....
So, as mentioned, units and movement trays. Movement trays are great. They keep your unit organized and make it much easier to move them around. They also make facing and alignment for engagements easy.
But the problem with them is that people are clumsy. So far in every game I've played me, or my opponent (but usually me) has dropped a tray. Usually only an inch or two to the tabletop, but still...
As I'm on an ASOIAF (awesome acronym...) facebook group, this seems to be a common issue. And everyone uses the common solution that movement tray based minis games have been using for decades. Magnets.
Back when I played Clan War (and Gencon was still in Milwaukee) we used flat metal sheets for the trays, and stick on squares of magnet on the bases. But now we live in the future! where itty bitty super powerfully magnets are easily available.
So today I'm trying out magnetizing this unit of Stark Sworn Swords.
Following a post I read a while ago in the Facebook group, I ordered a bunch of 5mm x 1mm magnets.
The first thing I do is grab a scratchy something (in this case a triangle file) and scratch an X into one face of a bunch of the magnets (I'll do them all eventually).
Then I picked a test subject and glued one as centered as I could get it. I'm putting the scratched side into the glue as the scratches might help it adhere better and so I don't have scratches showing on all the bottoms. It doesn't matter as long as you're consistent.
Once it dried a bit I needed to see if this would actually work. As these are pretty thin magnets and imported from a company I'd never dealt with before (but who sell really inexpensive magnets) I wasn't sure how strong they would be.
So I picked what should be the worst spot on the movement tray, where CMoN put their logo, put the fig in the spot and just held a magnet to see what it would do.
Seemed to lock on pretty good so time to test!
Even with a few good shakes our test Stark seems to have held. Excellent!
Time to glue the rest on.
Glue should be dry now after all this typing, but its lunch so I'll see if I can get the movement try magnets glued on after a bit.
As some of you may have read elsewhere, I have been playing Village Attacks and painted the vampire. When I did I kept close to the concept art because I figured if I ever get someone else to play they'll be looking at the game cards, so the minis should look like what the player expects. When I looked closely at more of the cards though, it became apparent there was a bit of a problem. The monsters all have inhumanly pale skin and generally dark color schemes. The peasants look drab as well. While that is cool as concept art, having a couple 20 minis on the table that are all kind of muted colors is going to blend together more than I would like so a new plan is needed. That is to stick close to the concept art, but make everything a little more vibrant. I figure as slowly as I'll be painting these there will be plenty of time to stop for pics, so why not a thread.
Next I'll be working on the banshee, but first a bit of background. You see there is another mini I would like to pull down off of the shelf of shame and work on but it has a problem. I want to paint part of it jade, but the jade paint I have kind of sucks. I like the color, but the paint itself is super shiny and too translucent. So I picked up Reaper's cool green triad to try out. The color swatch showed me Reaper's Jade wasn't quite what I wanted, but real jade comes in several variations of green. I'll find a use for it somewhere.
Here's a sampling of some of the greens that I have. You can see the Reaper Jade 09015 is nothing like the VGC Jade 72026, but real Jade comes in both flavors so it's fine. I have a plan, but first I want to try the Triad out on its own just to see how it looks.
Enter the banshee. Her concept art has her is a very desaturated garment with some green accents. The new cloth color will instead be the Reaper Triad and then put the green accents beside them. She will be very green. First 09013. I had originally painted the cloth but decided to texture the base before I went any further. It was messy and got some grit on her. I wasn't very thorough in removing it.
Next is 09014. I just blocked it in to see what it looked like. It is noticeably warmer than the shadow color. At first it seems to stand out but...
Once the jade is slapped on it really falls back into the shadows, as you can see below. My highlighting here isn't exactly accurate, but that's why we call it tabletop. There should be a step between 09014 & 09015 that I'll have to mix at some point. Under normal lighting the green just goes from dark to jade.
Actually if you look at the colors there is another problem. This triad has no pop. Fortunately pop is easy. It's called VMC Ivory and solves (almost) all your contrast needs. Here it's actually mixed with the jade to create a highlight that will actually stand out.
Just remember your painting lesson for today. VMC Ivory = POP and eliminates those pesky "more contrast" comments.
Given that the real purpose here is to learn the triad, I'll be going back to refine things later and see how I can get it to look. Before that though I want to block in everything else so my green has something to work with.
That though, is a project for tomorrow.
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