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lexomatic

has anyone used woodland scenics rock molds with hot glue

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Going to test a side piece. I like low temp hot glue and it's way less messy than plaster or resin. But it would be nice to know if it's been done before today is warm so I can leave the window open

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So no abnormal smell

I out a bit of matte medium directly on as a mold release/barrier, and that came off a bit cleaner, so now I'm testing one of the small molds.

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The trouble with hot glue is if you ever think your project might sit in the back seat or trunk of your car on a summer day.  Or if you might stow your projects out in the garage.  (Although this might be more of a problem for ME in Orlando than it is for you up in Toronto.  ;)  )

I used to make little "casting" projects with hot glue, but nowadays I prefer working with bulk epoxy puttys such as Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculp(t) to get the texture surface, and then various filler materials for the insides for particularly large items.  (Back in the day, for REALLY huge sculpting projects I'd use expanding foam for the interior.  Now, for larger projects I might use a putty-and-gravel mix, where the "gravel" could be all sorts of foam bits, unwanted plastic bits leftover from trimming and kitbashing, etc.)

 

I never really had a "smell" problem with hot glue, per se, so much as I did with the glue gun itself.  (I mean, it IS a heating element and all, so anything that gets on it is going to get very hot.  Say, little bits of foam shavings from a prior project and all that, if it's not properly cleaned.)

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I was more concerned with the mood melting, because unlike my silicone molds it's not made for heat. I dont have any epoxy here and it's a pain compared to 5-10 minutes with hot glue. So far it doesn't  seem to have damaged anything, but also hasn't caught any detail. I'll paint some up to see.

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I think you are going to lose a lot of the detail using hot glue. It’s not viscous enough to flow into all the cracks and crevices of the rock detail. Those woodland scenic molds are very detailed.

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It turned out better than I thought.

Definitely missing  detail though.

I have a small silicone sheet, and next time I'll try using it as a heat barrier to push down and force the glue to fill cracks.

This was a few sticks and breaks worth, so I'm not concerned about weird seams.

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3 hours ago, lowlylowlycook said:

Hmmm, from the title I thought you might be working on some glacial ice.

I hadn't thought of that. Thanks!

This was just quick experimenration.

I might post a follow up later to see if pressure makes a difference.

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So I managed to try 2 of a different mold today using the silicone sheet to press down and try to get the space filled.

1 was not as good, I learned some stuff from it. The other was better in some ways but warped slightly.

I got so excited about ice base potential, that I painted the underside with midnight blue/ blue liner (pics of 0, 1 ,2 coats).

Later I will use turquoise ink and medium, then drybrush with frost blue and maybe also pearl white in some spots. Hopefully that looks ok, and still translucent.i suppose I should have tried a lighter color for one base, but... oops.

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So turquoise dried and looked like

20190111_202349.thumb.jpg.9ad5085f830a18e5eb34f377f8052255.jpg

Then I drybrushed stuff in order

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Here's after the glacier blue

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Here's after the frost blue

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Here's after the ghost white

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I'll call that a winning recipe.

My original glue cast is there, because I think I've been doing the same one each time. I've include the turquoise only for comparison.

Also as can be seen now with the paint, adding pressure seemed to help the glue fill the mold reasonably well - there's much sharper lines. It releases really easily too. No issues, whatsoever.

Edited by lexomatic
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I wouldn't even need to do anything super permanent.just leave it hollow and put a mini in between it and painted  foamcore

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