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TaleSpinner

Getting to Know You, Feb 2019

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5 minutes ago, klarg1 said:

I am not popular with House Tabletop. :down:

 

* - A lot of wizards with integrated broccoli bases are way too much work, given the wide contact area between the bottom of a robe, and the base - just too much work to cut through!

Lies and slander! 

 

Agree about wizard broccoli bases. 

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3 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Feb 6: Detailed Integral Bases, Brocolli Integral Bases, Slot Tab, Pins, Other?  What style of mini base do you prefer and why?

 

I prefer slot tabs/pins, but detailed integral bases are only a slight step down.  Broccoli is another step down.  I can definitely manage any of the options, so I don't have super strong feelings about it.  Most everything I paint these days gets re-based onto some sort of 25mm base--if I like a detailed integral base then I'll just glue it down and attempt to putty around it to match.  (Good beginner sculpting practice.)  Sometimes I'll do the same with broccoli, but it looks pretty boring.  

 

26 minutes ago, klarg1 said:

I fear that I may not be popular with House Tabletop. :down:

 

* - A lot of wizards with integrated broccoli bases are way too much work, given the wide contact area between the bottom of a robe, and the base - just too much work to cut through!

 

Hey, good basing is definitely important in House Tabletop!  Just don't start a discussion about whether round vs square, 1" vs 30mm.  :;):  

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3 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Feb 6: Detailed Integral Bases, Brocolli Integral Bases, Slot Tab, Pins, Other?  What style of mini base do you prefer and why?

 

No real strong opinions one way or the other. I base the mini with whatever it has on another generally bigger base and then add sand and flock to blend whatever it had into the new base size. Some of the Bones stuff have large bases so the get trimmed down to fit 1" or 20mm bases size. Rarely try to pin man sized minis because their feet are so small. Biggest complaint about slot tabs is that you have no control over the facing of the minis.

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1 hour ago, TaleSpinner said:

Has to handle 300 to 400 degrees F and high pressure. I've been told only epoxies and metals will be accepted.

 

Strip styrene definitely isn't reliable for normal vulcanization then. It won't become liquid at that temp, but will definitely start acting wonky. Still good for RTV silicone though.

 

1 hour ago, TaleSpinner said:

This is why you will often see my animal bases zigzaging from foot to foot; I'm trying to give the most stable base possible while also using the least amount of pewter.

 

I appreciate that! I still glue them to a plastic base, otherwise one powerful sneeze that nudges the table still knocks them over (I sneeze like the Big Bad Wolf, it's awesome).

 

1 hour ago, TaleSpinner said:

 

If you want pins, there is an easy way to convert a slot tab to pins with better metal structure than actual pinning.  Use a side cuter to slice the tab off under each foot off as I marked in the following picture.  Then use a pliers to squish and reform the left over metal under each foot into a pin.  This works really well and is stronger than a drilled pin as it is still the same metal.

 

FROU5.jpg.bdd0f4d2ecd9f98c2fc91676108af5e1.jpg

 

I will have to try this out, though it's usefulness for me will depend on how much hand strength is needed. Thanks!

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6 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

 

Strip styrene definitely isn't reliable for normal vulcanization then. It won't become liquid at that temp, but will definitely start acting wonky. Still good for RTV silicone though.

 

 

I appreciate that! I still glue them to a plastic base, otherwise one powerful sneeze that nudges the table still knocks them over (I sneeze like the Big Bad Wolf, it's awesome).

 

 

I will have to try this out, though it's usefulness for me will depend on how much hand strength is needed. Thanks!

There are several bits for Dremel tools that could easily cut through the soft metal minis are cast from.

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I prefer detailed integral bases, although unbased minis + pins into base are growing on me. Broccoli bases are blah. 

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5 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Feb 6: Detailed Integral Bases, Brocolli Integral Bases, Slot Tab, Pins, Other?  What style of mini base do you prefer and why?

It doesn't matter what kind of bases they have, I am happy to accept all figures that you send to me. ::P:

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43 minutes ago, Corsair said:

There are several bits for Dremel tools that could easily cut through the soft metal minis are cast from.

 

Unfortunately I cannot use a Dremel comfortably or safely due to hand issues. It also leaves my hand feeling like it is vibrating for hours. :(

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5 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Feb 6: Detailed Integral Bases, Brocolli Integral Bases, Slot Tab, Pins, Other?  What style of mini base do you prefer and why?

 

I prefer whatever is easiest to work with (remove) as I tend to pin my minis to their bases.

 

Related to this topic, something I'd actually like would be a plastic base in the typical size and shape, but completely solid.  I glue magnetic strips to the bases of my minis and I usually have to fill in the typical slotta base to get enough surface area for good adhesion.  I could flip the base over and fill in the top, but then the bevel on the base looks weird.  :rolleyes::lol:

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4 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

 

If you want pins, there is an easy way to convert a slot tab to pins with better metal structure than actual pinning.  Use a side cuter to slice the tab off under each foot off as I marked in the following picture.  Then use a pliers to squish and reform the left over metal under each foot into a pin.  This works really well and is stronger than a drilled pin as it is still the same metal.

 

FROU5.jpg.bdd0f4d2ecd9f98c2fc91676108af5e1.jpg

 

 

I definitely do this on occasion, but found that my willingness to do it greatly depends on what the surface I'll be attaching to. For instance, I don't have to reshape the bits if I'm going into cork. Just cut a small slot and essentially use two micro slottas. If I need to go deep (ie attaching to wood through some foam), I'll use full pins as otherwise my glue will end up directly on foam, and that's bad.

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Since we're talking about bases, a small aside/inquiry... who invented the broccoli base? Who first looked at a head of broccoli, and thought "That's the exact texture the world needs to put their minis on. Make it so!"? Does anyone know?

 

I'm not judging them (much), but curious minds want to know.

Edited by ManvsMini
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8 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Feb 6: Detailed Integral Bases, Brocolli Integral Bases, Slot Tab, Pins, Other?  What style of mini base do you prefer and why?

 

A detailed integral base can be fine, if I like it.  If not then it is just more prep work I have to do to remove it.  Better if it is a separate piece.

 

Broccoli bases are horrible.  If I am lazy I'll bury it under something but usually I cut them off.  I have taken a pass on certain Reaper minis because I don't want to deal with such bases.

 

Slot is fine.  If it actually fits in a slotted base that's great, but if not they are easy to remove.  My preference for slot over broccoli is why I have more Warlord than DHL in my collection.

 

Pins are fine.  I usually pin things anyway so, depending on the material, factory pins range from usable to easily removed and replaced.

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4 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

Since we're talking about bases, a small aside/inquiry... who invented the broccoli base? Who first looked at a head of broccoli, and thought "That's the exact texture the world needs to put their minis on. Make it so!"? Does anyone know?

 

I'm not judging them (much), but curious minds want to know.

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will correct me but since I'm here...

 

As far as I can tell, broccoli bases are features only of Reaper miniatures.  I don't know if they existed beforehand or if they are an invention of Reaper.

 

If you look at Ral Partha miniatures (many still sold today by Iron Wind Metals) or Grenadier miniatures with integral bases, their integral base is a featureless flat piece of metal.  Unless they're standing on a perfectly flat, featureless piece of ground (like, say, ice or linoleum or tile), it's not very realistic and there isn't a lot to work with.

 

Broccoli bases are an improvement.  They look almost like real terrain and vegetation.  Paint it green, apply a brown wash, make sure the dimples are properly brown, and it kinda looks like a patch of wild grass.  It's good enough for tabletop and it's an improvement over the competitors.

 

 

Depending on the broccoli base, you may be able to extend it to fill a standard sized base.  Many of the Bones bases have shallow detail that can be replicated or blended into other basing.  I've used green stuff and base stamps (primarily the Happy Seppuku stone quarry stamp), epoxy, and Liquitex texture gel.  (I had the most success with the resin sand gel.)  If you're careful, you could probably also use something like Army Painter Brown Battleground or even sand.

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I like tabs or pins, because I just cut the tabs off and put in pins. Though most of the time it doesn't matter, whatever base it has I'm likely to sculpt over, except the detailed bases. I do like the idea of the tabbed bases that the BB owlbear came on, detailed, but separate. Noice. 

 

4 hours ago, ManvsMini said:

 

Unfortunately I cannot use a Dremel comfortably or safely due to hand issues. It also leaves my hand feeling like it is vibrating for hours. :(

That sucks. I love my dremel, it was such a revolution for me.

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2 hours ago, ManvsMini said:

Since we're talking about bases, a small aside/inquiry... who invented the broccoli base? Who first looked at a head of broccoli, and thought "That's the exact texture the world needs to put their minis on. Make it so!"? Does anyone know?

 

I'm not judging them (much), but curious minds want to know.

 

I'm guessing Sandra Garrity.  And like Xiwo says it was a great improvement on the standard flat featureless bases that came before it.  Green paint, brown wash, and green drybrushing and you had a pretty good looking tabletop base ready to go. 

 

Ral Partha ( where Sandra started) was known for flat bases, but in the 90's some of the sculptors were putting on textures, dimpling, even "paving stones" on select figures. "Broccoli" and then sculpted bases were the next steps, at Reaper. 

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