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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/12 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ok, I knew I had to get a copy of Super Dungeon Explore when I saw the Angry Bear mini. Now, I've painted him up in colors that I hope put a new light on him. I hope to have emphasized his anger: And he might spend a little part of the game as a druid:
  2. 1 point
    First time sculpting
  3. 1 point
    Since I've been delving into the unknown and begun writing a blog I've been thinking about doing full start->finish work in progress style things (its not a tutorial so I'm gonna stick with 'thing' as the description unless someone comes up with a better name). Despite having some 7 or 8 projects on the go I wanted to get going right away ("slightly compulsive behavior there beno" says my conscience). This model was sitting patiently at the back of the queue of 'models ready for painting', so in true biblical style "the last shall be first" and the first are gonna have to wait til later. On that note lets get on with it: He of the half-breed horsemen after much cutting and sticking (too long at 2hrs but worth it I think): I had to do some pretty serious chopping, grinding and filing since he had a whacking great big mold line running all round. Ended up massacring then rebuilding from scratch the armour on his back and worked alot on those plates over his loins. Next I gave him a smart new nose job and a bit of a haircut (head and tail). Then, to top it off I had to carve up his belly and did some bone reshaping on his legs and arms. All in all I felt like Dr. Frankenstein! So far this was the longest stage though some of that was spent watching putty dry Time for some real man's work now - and throw some clarity on the subject (20mins max): I whipped out the airbrush and primed him black, and then white from above (see the second picture). I honestly thought about getting down on the floor and taking a photo of the black underside of the mini, but I don't think it'd look very informative. I do this zenithal priming partly because I'm indecisive about black vs grey vs white primer (I've tried em all and never happy!) Mostly its because it saves me a ton of black lining and shading (benefits of black) but I can also see what I'm looking at (benefit of white/grey) and because its cheating and I don't have to think as much about light falling on the model Last picture set for today - the basecoats (or some of them anyway) 1hr: I like to get a good feel for how the model's gonna look early on. I've done photoshop mock ups before but translating what I have in my head into a digital image and then into real living paint seems like one step too many for me on a basic model like this, no offence mr horse-man, you can put your spear down now. At this point I whipped out two skin tones from dark - VMC flat brown with a little GW Regal Blue and a little GW dwarf flesh mixed in; and light - GW Elf flesh with a little of the dark tone mixed in. Then I start a little hasty wet blending over him until he begins to look human (for a horse). Paint the light tone in the white only areas, the dark tone in the black only areas and then blend the two in the grey areas. I decided to make a more predominant mid-tone from a 1:1:1 dark : light : dwarf flesh mix at the end and blended it in before it dried. Oh yeah and all these mixes are a little over 50% water, so pretty dribbly. Apply a little from the brush at a time and work fast so it doesn't dry before you come to blending The horse legs and his hair and tail I painted with three mixes of VMC Black grey : VMC Pale Sand, 4:1 grey:sand, 1:1 and 1:2 and applied in a similar fashion to the skin, the highlights on the finer details you have to wait til the paints thickened a little more otherwise you end up with a mess! Metal parts went 3:1 Black grey:black and the fur coat I gave a quick stain (like a wash but don't mop the floor with the poor guy, just apply it very thin but carefully and allow the paint to soak in!) of VMC flat brown to give me something to bounce off later. visually I mean, not the floor when I fall off my chair from typing too much.
  4. 1 point
    Next week we'll be previewing two brand new Bones polys. One by Werner Klocke, one by Bobby Jackson. Neither have seen the light of day in any Reaper product line before, so they are unique to Bones. And they're awesome. There, chew on that for a while.
  5. 1 point
    6 Kobolds for 3.99? That's less than 75 cents per kobold! My god, at that price point, I can actually realistically field an entire tribe of kobolds! Okay, you got me. I'll give them a try.
  6. 1 point
    Gotta alot of messages to burn through but WELCOME! Look forward to seeing pictures of anything you'd like to share in showoff and to future discussions and figmentia!
  7. 1 point
    Location: Reaper HQ 9062 Teasley Lane, Denton TX 76210 Pricing: it's something like $20-30 for the weekend con pass, and about $20 per class. Registration should begin Soon . It will be announced on the web site. Hotel: there are several within the area around Reapercon, I think the popular location is the Best Western at 305 Swisher Road, Lake Dallas, Texas. Best to book early, as both local universities hold graduation ceremonies around the same time and rooms book up fast. Room rates run $65-75 a night.
  8. 1 point
    My grandmother would have gotten a kick out of it. A grand daughter like that would probably sneak her out of the nursing home for cigarettes and Gin and Tonics.
  9. 1 point
    @Wren: Ah yes, I thought it looked familiar. "Twilight Knight" by Kingdom Death, extra basket, hold the cloak. Thanks.
  10. 1 point
    Speak of the dks, and the dks will appear... Rhonda (Wren) has it right. That photo of the Red Riding Hood figure has high-contrast black-to-white areas (metal, shiny leather, and hair whose shine verges on the metallic), but note that the skin is mostly light values, as Rhonda said, with subtle transitions and dark shadows only in very limited areas. My versions of the Ghoul Queen (03126) and "Black Pearl" the evil mermaid (03078) also used desaturated skin tones, using Aged Bone as a base color. To get the effect in your first inspiration photo, I think your midtone might be even higher, like Polished Bone. For shadows, I would just add more and more Brown Liner and perhaps a bit of Woodstain Brown (or any cool brown) so the mix doesn't go too gray in the middle values. I often find it difficult to get smooth blends with grays, since the paint changes color when it dries. Anyway, if you can get your grayscale highlights and shadows looking the way you want them, you can glaze a little more warmth or color (maybe a slight pink) if you want. It looks to me like the Red Riding Hood has some blue in the shadows of her skin. Also, remember that Reaper has the "Power Palette" application. If you can get the image under 300kb, then you can use Power Palette to click around and get approximate Master Series colors. Where is that Red Riding Hood figure from, anyway? Derek
  11. 1 point
    Derek Schubert, one of the Reaper artists, often teaches a class at ReaperCon (and I think sometimes Gen Con or other cons) on painting monochromatically, so that's something to look out for if you get a chance. Also he has several minis you could study for inspiration. http://www.reapermini.com/ShowcaseGallery/derek%20schubert/latest/03439 http://www.reapermini.com/ShowcaseGallery/derek%20schubert/latest/50023 http://www.reapermini.com/ShowcaseGallery/derek%20schubert/latest/01502
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