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Hey folks. Been awhile since I've posted anything again. Been working on commissions for Center Stage Miniatures and private clients. However I was able to get the new Bones River Troll finished this week! So I thought I'd share him with ya since I haven't seen one posted yet. I know one person was working on him, but I'm not sure if he was done yet. Any way here he is! His back scales basecoat was Ceramcoat Deep River Green. Then a wash of GW Drakenhof Nightshades (dark blue wash). Then I started highlighting up using yellow in the Deep River Green. His chest, belly and underside of his arms are in this order; Basecoat: Ceramcoat Leaf Green, Wash of dark blue and GW Agrax Earthshade. Reestablish the basecoat. Start adding some Oyster white to the basecoat as first highlight. I made the paint as transparent as possible and really blended the colors together as best as I could. I kept adding oyster white to the mix until I was using straight oyster white. His clubs basecoat was GW Bestial Brown, followed by a wash of agrax earthshade. Highlighted with several browns. Skraag brown, snakebite leather, bubonic and then rotting flesh with skull white as the highest highlight. Leathers were Scorched Earth (basecoat) then highlighted up with some Ceramcoat Golden brown. The fur is scorched earth with overbrushing of bestial brown, snakebite leather, vomit brown, and rotten flesh. The skull is bestial brown, oyster white and skull white. The head is scorched earth, RMS rosy flesh mixed with sky blue. I kept highlighting the sky blue with some more rosy flesh until I got the desired look I wanted. His hair is black with bright grey highlights. The underside of his wrap is Scorched Earth, with Golden Brown as the next highlight. I then added in more white into the golden brown for the following highlights. The scales of his wrap are, scorched earth, bestial brown, skraag brown, deathclaw brown, bubonic brown, rotting flesh, and then a touch of white on the very edges. Teeth and claws are bestial brown, ushabti bone, oyster white and skull white. I used tentacle pink for the gum line around the teeth. The base is black with overbrushing of charcoal, charcoal+bright grey, bright grey, skull white. Then I glued on some GaelForce 9 marsh lands and dead static grass mixture. Hope you like him! I'm looking forward to seeing the looks on my gaming friends faces when they see him on the table.

Close Shot: Full Shot: The rest are in the folder.

Cthulhu is not missing his head. The extra Mr. Bones is his head....I am so taking a pic of that when I get home...

Hello My first post here, so lets introduce myself - my name is Przemyslaw Szymczyk, I'm painter and sculptor from Poland :) Here's my latest creation: All comments welcome! Best regards

I can contribute to this thread! Last night I spent some more time basing up some of my Reaper figures onto square 25mm bases so I can use them on the gaming table. When I get my Bones I'll be basing up all of my standard, human-sized figures onto the same style bases as well. (Bones is great for re-basing because the plastic material is really easy to cut through.) I use a combination of the flat slotted bases and the lipped bases that come with the Pathfinder figures. (Buying the non-lipped ones are slightly cheaper for me when I buy them in bulk, but the lipped bases are easier to do things with. You can build up your terrain a little more without your figure standing on this mass of land.) First I measure up the broccoli base of the figure and then cut it down if need be. (I needed to cut down each side of the Barbarian's broccoli quite a bit so fit him onto the 25mm base, then I glued him on-top (the remainder of his broccoli base covered the open slot so I didn't need to fill it in) and then put some milliput all around his feet to make dirt / terrain. I use a combination of milliput and green stuff, (sometimes use 100% green stuff on a base, but it's a little more pricey so milliput is a good alternative) milliput is great for big areas of the base and green stuff is good for tiny details. When sculpting with either, have a cup of water handy to stop it from getting sticky. Green stuff is best sculpted with something like Vaseline or even water based lubricant to keep your tools and hands non-sticky. I always dip what-ever tool I am using in a bit of either before I start working with it. If I'm planning to have a Reaper figure with a broccoli base standing on outside terrain usually I leave a bit of their original base and use it as a base for the added stuff I put on. You can see with the Barbarian I've added a few milliput rocks that look just like the existing metal ones on his base. If you plan on having a figure on a flat surface, chances are you'll have to completely cut them off of their broccoli base and do some pinning. (I didn't have to with the Pathfinder figure on the left because she didn't have a broccoli base.) To get the effect of dirt and rough-ness on your base, I use a small rock (filled with divets and bumps) and press it lightly into the wet material. Sometimes if I want a more rugged appearance in certain areas I'll lightly press the tip of a HB pencil into the material in a stippling pattern. For the cobblestones, I lay down a fairly even surface of material and use a small sculpting knife or blade to cut in the stone pattern. As the material dries you can rough it up a bit by carving some little cracks into the stones and pressing a rock into the top to give it a rougher surface. When it comes to adding little details, like the scrolls and sea junk on the bases above I waited until the milliput (the yellow stuff) was completely dry before adding the green stuff details. This way you're not ruining your nicely sculpted base. Another great alternative to sculpting rocks by hand, is to glue little pieces of kitty litter onto your bases. I glued some kitty litter onto the base on the right, and sculpted some small logs out of green stuff on the base on the left. Here are some more bases I've sculpted to inspire you: If you have any questions let me know, I'm fairly new to all of this too!

Is it true that you're mostly interested in the MSDS sheets and non-toxicity? If so, why not say so up front? Reaper can forward you all of that information on their paint products; I know that Ed has done so in the past. Simply contact customer service and say what you would like and say that Anne told you to ask. You are quite correct in that the industry standards on non-toxicity are highly influenced by usage. Games Workshop (the previous iteration of metallics) and Vallejo (the cadmium reds and yellows) have several paints that are questionably "safe", for example, but they get by under the non-toxic designation because of intended usage--i.e. "this paint is meant to be painted on via brush and not finger paints and is not meant to be ingested and thus it is non-toxic when used as intended". All I can say is that you can contact us as I mentioned above for MSDS data, and I can also say that Reaper strives to make sure that if your kid drinks a bottle of your paint, it's not great but it's not horrible either. We know that many of you have kids that you are getting into the hobby; we get many children at Paint Club. All of our reds and yellows are not cadmium-based, and a number of years ago several of our paints were texted via spectral analysis for impurities and no cadmium or mercury or other nasties were found. In many cases we use materials for our paints that do not give us the best results but which are deemed safer (i.e. we COULD use real metal flake for our metallics; we use titanium-oxide-coated mica flakes instead, which are relatively inert). --Anne

Well, I decided to play around with Magic Wash (2 parts water, 1 part Future Shine floor wax, color to taste) and the results were... great. Fire is lighter on the INSIDE, so just inking it with a darker color would be a nono; at first I tried a yellow, but that didn't show, so I decided to do white then yellow and the result was about 20-30 minutes of work for these: Now, at first I thought I'd treat the ghosts different with a dark green wash - but that looked dull and boring, so I decided to just try the white wash I made and... wow. i tried a red-eye effect with the banshee and it failed pretty hard; I thought I fixed it but I guess not. Once again, I'd like to repeat: I did all of these with about 30 minutes of work. Not counting drying time, though.

Short answer, no. In metal, the cost per mold is relatively cheap, but the cost per individual mini is relatively high. Bones is the reverse: molds are upwards of $10K, IIRC, even though individual minis are very cheap. This means that unless Reaper knows a mini will sell well, it doesn't make sense to make it in Bones, since it will take so much longer to break even on a Bones mini. They can make minis that are unusual or less likely to be popular in metal first, and will quickly make up the cost of the mold even if it never sells particularly well. That is, metal is much less of a gamble. Bones minis sell incredibly well, but are also a much bigger gamble on an individual basis. Thus, it makes sense for Reaper to make most of their minis in metal, and the best-sellers (as well as some others that they think would benefit especially well from a medium change) get made into Bones, since they're more likely to pay off.

Hi, I've been working on this for a while and have finally finished him! This is one of the Battling Behemoths from Grenadier Miniatures, and is huge almost a foot high, weighing 14lbs (lead). I took a photo for reference to show the scale with a reaper figure when I was assembling him. I was looking at the wall murals in Knossos Greece as a starting point for some of his body designs, as well as some winged griffons in grecian pottery for the designs on the wings. Hope you guys like him! Also if anyone knows the sculptor's name, I would like to give credit to them too, please let me know, thanks!

I don't know if this belongs in this forum or even if anybody is interested, but I found this video in the Royal Institute Channel on YouTube and frankly found it quite enlightening on how we perceive colours. Also check out their other videos, they are awesome (e.g. the science of fire breathing or a superconducting maglev moebius strip).

I love her most of all for not making me glue an arm/leg/head or having to use sculpting putty anywhere.

Given the nature of the brushes most-commonly licked, wouldn't that more likely be toxic Russian weasel butts?

When I visit a forum and that taptalk window pops up, I leave the forum.

The only thing I'll add to what Slendertroll said is that since there are a fair number of people in the market who are really only interested in buying metal (even at a significantly higher price), I think it even more unlikely that Reaper will go all PVC.

I think it's a great way to entice people to get involved early. Take the first step, back the new project and get the ball rolling and get an extra reward. It's a common promotion, first hundred people through the gate get a ballcap.... or the first hundred shoppers get a $5 gift card.... IMO life is inherently unfair. A lot of people haven't figured that out yet and get their panties in a bunch over minor inequalities of day to day life. I've got to wonder if these same people boycott a vendor if they miss the 20% off sale "because they don't camp on the vendor website".

Here are some Reaper gnolls I painted, I have no luck with varnish, I just go for shiny, these started to come out cloudy. I ordered some blended flock and static grass so I'll throw some on these when it gets here. 5 gnolls here 2 metal archers, 1 metal gnoll w/axe, 2 Bones gnolls w/flails. The scale mail on the Bones gnolls is larger than the others, extremely easy to paint, after painting these I would prefer just Bones versions, the details are excellent. Hard to see the reds, I have a light red on the edges of any red areas. I know on the inside of the shield I got sloppy, I'll pretend a gnoll made the shield. Anyway I was going for a "hyena" type look, if it gives anyone ideas for their gnolls.

Hi I'm Mike and this is actually my Indiegogo campaign and I hope I can answer some of the questions/comments that you have posted. 1. "Perks seem a bit odd to me. Surely there'd be a better chance of getting low-tier backers if people could choose the set(s) they want on the lower pledges?" Answer: Yes, this is a valid point and the perks from levels 2 to 5 have been changed so that you may select the individual sets that you want. It is also possible to replace the chief eunuch in the eunuch guard set with another eunuch spearman if you already have a set or sets with the chief eunuch (just be sure to let me know!) I also made all the perks postage free worldwide. 2. "The figures are nice enough but the static poses make it hard for me to come up with a use for them. If there were some girls sitting, or lounging, or doing something other than just standing there I could at least put together a vignette. The "entertainers" have possibilities, I suppose I'll be watching to see if they make it possible to select the set I want" Answer: Thank you. The standing and somewhat static poses were a conscious decision on my part when first drawing up the concept art for this range. I had numerous harem type girls in lounging, reclining and sitting poses - what I found difficult to obtain were harem type girls that were actually standing and could be used in role-playing and wargaming as PCs and NPCs. I do have plans in the future to design girls in poses more suitable to vignettes but my priority were ones that were standing and could be used as characters. I do plan in the future of having girls reclining on couches, seated on thrones or sedan chairs, frolicking in the water and seated playing the game senet (in fact the gaming sets have already been commissioned Kev Adams will do a set and so will Brother Vinni). The Entertainers are a cool set and I've commissioned Brother Vinni to do another Entertainer set with a dancer, flute player and lyre player. He probably wont start these until August or later though. 3. "Does anyone else get weird vibes off of flexible funding on indiegogo? I don't know why but any time I see it I can't help but think it's a little shady. Edit - not to say that this campaign or any other are disreputable. But goal listed is supposed to be "this is how much it will cost to make this happen" so what happens if the goal isn't hit? They still get the money in a flexible funding campaign, but the didn't make enough to create their product... What happens? Do the people that supported the campaign just end up being out their money?" Answer: Hmmm sorry about the weird vibes - I can assure you when it comes to a project I put my name on I will do my very best to deliver what I say I am going to deliver. But I do understand your hesitation considering the track record of other campaigns which have left many people less than satisfied. To begin with this is my second Indiegogo campaign. My first campaign was very modest (A single set of Egyptian concubines) and more of an experiment to see how crowd-funding works. I'm happy to say the goal of $1000 was surpassed and everyone that contributed to the campaign received their miniatures within a few weeks of the campaign's end. This second campaign is a bit more ambitious - but sadly not as grand as I had hoped due to my main sculptor Kev Adams being brutally assaulted in his own home. Kev is recovering slowly as I'm sure many of you who have been following GoblinAid are aware. But he still finds it difficult to focus his eyes and is due for an operation next month. He is hoping to be back to sculpting in a month or so after that - which would be great if it happens. He is quite pleased about working on the Egyptian range and is due to finish off some more characters and variant models when he's back in form. As far as what happens if the campaign doesn't reach its goal? (Perish the thought! lol). All of the figures by Kev Adams and Brother Vinni for this campaign have been completed and paid for by me already. All of them have been sent to the mold-maker/caster and I'm only waiting for the castings of the entertainers set to come back. The one set which is not yet fully sculpted is the Personalities II set by Jo Brumby, but I have seen the partially completed greens and it shouldn't be too long - after that it should take three to four weeks to get them all cast up. So I can assure you that any figures ordered will be delivered to you. The relatively low target for the campaign is more of a guarantee that I will only have to pay Indiegogo 4% of the contributions made - rather than some sly scheme to abscond with your hard earned gaming/miniatures cash. But please don't think that your contributions are not important the more I raise from this campaign the easier it will be to cover production costs and the next wave of figures for this range. If you have any other questions or concerns about the campaign or anything else related to it please let me know and I will be more than happy to answer them. I hope this clears up the questions asked so far. Thanks a lot for taking the time to check my campaign out and I hope you can help out! Cheers Mike

It occurs to me that I must be riddled with toxins.

I tried my hand at the medium and large elementals. 77082 Large Fire Elemental Medium Fire Elemental My basic approach was this: 1) Dry-brushed with Inca gold paint. Didn't have much of a result. Back to square one. 2) Applied white acrylic paint near the base, and in assorted recessed areas. The conceit was that it might be lighter toward the base of the fire, or deeper into the fire, while the extremities would fade to red. 3) I went back with yellow, painting over parts of the areas that had been painted white previously, following the rule of thumb that the lower and deeper the area, the more it should fade to white. I also tried dry-brushing a few areas with yellow, but my yellow paint is very translucent and doesn't really stand out well for dry-brushing. 4) I went back with bright orange, painting in the tips of the areas I'd originally painted white (with the idea of going with a gradient from white, to yellow, to orange, to background red). I also tried painting highlights in orange. 5) For the medium elemental, as it seemed to have strong resistance to standing up under its own power for very long, I took a 30mm round lipped base, glued a circular piece of white paper to the middle (to cover the slot and to provide a white "underpaint" for the translucent figure), glued down the medium fire elemental, then went back with some bright orange to paint the exposed white areas, then dots of black acrylic to try to "gradient" the orange to the black plastic rim somewhat. (Heavy on the "somewhat.")

I was very sad to hear about the substitution, even though there was a perfectly good reason. Those are some great looking concept sketches. The replacements are fine looking minis as well, and look like they will be fun to paint, but they already existed in metal. I hope those two show up some day. The female especially. Full armour, no exposed skin (other than her head, I'm sure she just took her helm off between battles). No comically dangerously designed breastplate, it's a great looking figure. The male too, he's an elf in heavy armour, an uncommon occurrence. And they still manage to portray slim, elfin proportions.

Finally get to post some of the stuff I've finished for Center Stage Miniatures! Some of these are from their Demons and Devils Kickstarter and others are older Julie Guthrie sculpts. And now for the Julie Guthrie stuff!

This is the PC a friend of mine used. However, he only used it unpainted. He claimed "I prefer them unpainted." It made me sad. The mini has so much potential! Sooooo, once I got my bones, I felt that Case deserved a paint job and here he is!

Finishing off the week with the 4 Reaper pugwampi miniatures. This also puts me at one more miniature painted than I aquired during the year (although that will be shortlived as I'll recieve the bones package soonish)! Also completes my goal for this month. Hopefully I can finish my bonus goals as well before my vacation takes me abroad.

We have $290ish in contributions, that should be enough for movie passes for more than 29 people (and I'm told they have around 20 people to consider). That sounds like something we could do (so long as we verify the count, anyone being left out would be an epic fail on our part) ... I'd like to see if we can stretch goal it to two tickets per person so they can take themselves +1 (who likes going to the movies alone...) and possibly take spouse/ "special" person cause they'd spent so much time working for us. Need to find out what theaters are in their area (we're all about AMC here!)

No one has asked this question yet, but given the Bones being shipped right now, I also wanted to say that if I wash my Bones, I find that I can apply my base coat more thinly than if I do not wash them. By "wash" I mean toss 'em in a plastic mixing bowl, add hot water and a bit of dish detergent, slosh 'em around for a minute or so, rinse well, and let dry on a dish towel overnight. I did this to prep the Bones I used in my ReaperCon classes and found to my surprise that I did not have to switch up anything in my painting style to make the first coat stick.

And just so that I can get it out of the way, this is my 100th post on the Reaper Forums . . . Yeah, not much of an accomplishment, but hey, we gotta take them where we find them!

In the context of this statement, what would be considered very very old? I have a number of Reaper Paints from about three to four years ago that seems to still be fluid. I am about to start painting again and will likely start with the paints contained in the L2PK1 I recently purchased but will eventually expand to include some of these other colors. Paint, like many products, does naturally age. Especially if left on a shelf or in a box and not touched for years, it will slowly begin to fall out of solution. The fluid gradually evaporates; the solids (resins and pigments) eventually form a solid, latex-y plug on the bottom of the bottle. Just as you would not take a bag of groceries back to the store for a replacement because you didn't get around to using them, you can not take a paint back to the company simply because they have thickened naturally over time. As people have said before in this forum, adding just a few drops of water to the bottle and shaking well only once per year can keep your MSP paint good indefinitely. I don't even add water to the paints that I use for samples for color-matching. Many of those bottles are well over 5 years old now. I even have samples from the original runs, in the cases of some of the slower-moving colors, that are still good. Of course they get a good shaking every time I mix the color--so in the early days, that was twice a year for the slow ones, now even the slow ones move a lot faster!! When I say "very old" I'm talking from the beginning of the line, five or six-plus years ago, when we did have some chemical compatibility issues every once in a while and got paints that clotted like cottage cheese. That's nothing like the natural aging and thickening that happens to paints. If you had it, you would know.

Make him a cockpit! :D

Barrow Rat is done.

What if we buy them BONES minis? I bet they really would like to see more of those. /sarcasm

I applied Ruddy Leather to most of the rest of each of the minis as a base coat. I also applied Blackened Brown to the Snakeman's bow. The spines on the troll are 2:1 Gory Red/Clear Purple. (The lighting was causing havoc with my pics, but I don't have enough light sources to try out my lightbox yet. If you have something to say about that, feel free to go to this thread in order to keep side conversation out of the group WIP.)

Or weasels... Gene

That's no problem at all Pingo. Whatever you ask, I will strive to answer. I was merely curious about the focus behind the questions after Psyber mentioned you were concerned about health and usage. I understand and completely agree with your concerns about brush-licking and the use of some interesting alternative chemicals (Future floor wax and brush-licking do NOT go together) in the hobby. I, also, come from a fine-arts background, but when I was in school they weren't very clear on the hazards of certain stuff. Years later I found out how bad pastels can be for you and was shocked! Now some people use the ground-up ones for weathering effects and all I can do is wonder if there are warning labels... Anyhow, keep the questions coming, I'll try to answer more tomorrow.

From the title I was hoping reaper was going to produce a Red Green line of flannel and duct tape coated figures. I'm only slightly disappointed by the rest of the discussion ;)

Someone mentioned to me at Paint Club that there was a recent thread where people had paint questions for me. I don't have time to look for it so here's your chance--you got a question for the Meep, fire away! Topics I am best at expounding on are paint-related. For those who don't know, I am She Who Makes the Paint at Reaper. I have limited time due to Kickstarter fulfillment entering its final stages, but I will do my best. --Anne

This is a Bones figure I painted in about 2 hours for a D&D character. My goal was to get a decent-looking job done, and that's it. Nothing special. It is marketed in the Reaper Kickstarter as a "new Bones" figure. It looks just like Kellen, Nobleman Adventurer, but with a hood. I couldn't find an SKU for this exact figure, though, since it's not available yet.

Here is a mini from Mordheim. I decided to paint him up as my character for the Iron Kingdoms RPG (I'm playing him as a knight/aristocrat that is clearly past his prime and often confused).

I always do a Christmas adventure with my D&D group. This year was a "Nightmare before Christmas" theme, last year was 'Scrooge". Of course this years "Christmas" game was played in January or February =P. I plan on adding flock and static grass to these. All the minis are from Reaper, all the pumpkins I made out of Sculpey. The objective was to prevent the Pumpkin King and his minions from getting Santa into the Pumpkin Portal. Of course when my group got there they almost decided to kill Santa for loot. Anyway the Blue face pumpkin would slow any enemies within so many squares and the Green faced pumpkin would blow back any enemies within so many squares, the Yellow topped pumpkins would explode when enemies got close, and the Green pumpkins were toxic, poisoning any enemies nearby. (Enemies = players). The Pumpkin King can summon 3 Pumpkin minions out of the Pumpkin Portal, and only 3 minions can be up at a time. The pumpkin portal is immune to magic or magic effects, but not melee. Moving a single pumpkin out of line ruins the portal. I tried to cut n paste my monster templates I created here. Pumpkins Level 2 Traps XP: 150 per Hit Points: 10 DEFENSES: Armor Class AC: 5 Fort/Reflex/Will: 5 Special Skills: Immune: Disease, poison Resist: Necrotic 10 Vulnerable: Radiant 5 Explosive Pumpkin Explodes for 4d6 fire damage within 1 square. Slowing Pumpkin Slows all within 2 squares. Blowing Pumpkin Blows enemies back 4 squares, if within 3 squares. Poison Pumpkin 5 poison damage per round, unless save vs. Fort. Pumpkin Minion Level 3 Lurker XP: 200 Hit Points:30 (Bloodied 15) Movement Speed: 4 DEFENSES: Initiative Bonus: +6 Armor Class AC:18 Perception +6 Fort: 15 Special Skills: Ref: 14 Darkvision Will: 16 Immune: Disease, poison Resist: Necrotic 10 Vulnerable: Radiant 5 Pumpkin portal: 3 Minions can be at the game at a time, if any of the pumpkins that make up the ring are moved or damaged the portal is destroyed. The pumpkin portal is immune to magic. Attacks: Claw +6 vs. AC, 1d8+3 damage Jack the Pumpkin King Level 9 Brute XP: 1000 Hit Points:200 (Bloodied 100) Movement Speed: 6 DEFENSES: Initiative Bonus: +9 Armor Class AC: 24 Perception +8 Fort: 23 Special Skills: Ref: 19 Darkvision Will: 18 Immune: Disease, poison Resist: Necrotic 10 Vulnerable: Radiant 5 Attacks: Throw Pumpkin +10 vs. AC (Choose one of the special pumpkins from above.) Throw Body part +10 vs. AC, 2d8+6 damage, and rotting, ongoing 5 disease (sv) and (-2) to Fort Scythe attack Close burst (All adjacent targets) +12 vs AC, 2d10+6 Devour Minion Sacrifice minion, gain that many hitpoints

The Mr. Bones/Cthulhu picture totally made my day. It looks like Mr. Bones is saying: "Yeah, I just ripped off Cthulhu's head with my bare hands. AND NOW I'M COMING FOR YOOOOOUUUU!" Huzzah! --OneBoot :D

Open Air Art Gallery vignette. This is the (6th) of 8 vignette pieces that make up the traveling Gypsy market. It is complete except for the base edge ground cover work & the final seal spray of the whole vignette piece...The piece is a (5"x5") vignette built on ceiling tile. The art panels depict; 1. Gypsy camp life views (interior panel)... 2. The Gypsy dancer (interior panel)... 3. Gypsy legend with wolves/werewolves (interior panel)... 4. The Gypsy witch (exterior panel)... 5. The Gypsy female (exterior panel)... 6. Gypsy legend with beautiful horses (exterior panel)...

And put him on a battletech table as the cutting edge prototype mech from Word of Blake!

Or toxic weasels. ... Which might have to become an encounter some day.

2d6 would smooth some of the swinginess in this game and would improve and/or change tactics. I also just don't like how the d10 mechanic works in practice. I can't plan around the the die type because it's too swingy, so I take a small subset of troops to mitigate and make the die irrelevant which has basically made 50% of the models I own useless. Now I do understand how the d10 does makes one-hit-one-wound mechanic work, but as I said it makes the game a little more swingy than I like. Lesser defensive strikes is about how I loathe out of sequence activations. It rewards lazy play and makes paying attention to the game optional. Currently full strikes back makes stand and wait as viable a tactic as hunt them down, and I am no fan of encouraging people to not engage in playing a game. This is slightly less of an issue with missions, but point me to a repository of missions. It doesn't exist. The ranged rules have a few problems. First the troops are overpriced for what they can do. At their cost I can get better melee troops who can more reliably damage my opponent. Second defensive shots make it so no one shoots at other missile troops unless they have no other targets so it's a wasted ability. Third missile troops are useful only in turn 1 and depending on the draw turn 2 thus not justifying the points cost. This is how I play against missile. Deny shooting on turn 1 and be in melee on turn 2 thus making your missile troops overpriced underpowered melee troops. Not really. If it was plus 1 for every group of number x in b2b then yes. As it stands taking a melee beat stick that costs what 3 basic troops cost is typically far superior than the 3 warriors. The MAV that beat-stick has is better than the +1 three models in b2b would get. Yes you'll get more attacks but usually those beat-sticks have abilities that are better (read damage causing abilities not requiring a roll.) 2d6 would improve the game. CAV:SO is already playing better because of it. It makes me not feel like I was yet again screwed by the swingy nature of the d10. One of the ways to resolve why defensive shots suck is that if anything shoots in LOS of a missile troop they can shoot back, but then that ability would be too good. A million times this. Releasing a PDF of another company's rules when the D&D 1st ed rules it uses are free online already (OSRIC) was silly. Giving people access to the 2nd ed Warlord rules would've been the better move. But hey as you said they're not a game company. With a few hours work I could make a pretty decent Dungeon Crawl game using the Warlord rules and the D&D Tiles. Ok, been a long time since I was on here but much hasn't changed about Warlord since then heheh. Warlord works off of a d10 system for a reason. It may seem swingy but in actuality it's statistically very stable. I know this because a statistical fanatic helped put the system together. I may be missing the point on the 2d6 train of thought but I can tell you that working in increments of 10% is very stable and easy to modulate. Any game with dice and chance will be somewhat swingy but in Warlord each faction has the ability to negate much of the swing if you build to that purpose. Whether through massive number of attacks, massive MAV's, buffs, a combination, etc. Also I should point out I have no idea how to cut up and multi quote stuff so this is going to be alittle ramshackle approach to the message I am delivering. On the subject of defensive strikes - During playtesting we tried a ton of different ways to do defensive strikes from allowing ALL strikes against any opponents in b2b to 0 allowed. We found that for speed of play allowing the full number of attacks to be used defensively was the best choice. The combat to me seems like a real fight where every moment people are trying to kill each other as opposed to "You tried to kill me and when I get to go next I will try and stab you back. .. if I am still alive". Initating a charge vs receiving - There is a HUGE advantage to being the aggressor in a melee situation in Warlord. One of the very most famous instances of this is when 7 Bondslave survivors rushed Rauthoros and brought him down in one melee. This was when we tested the much dreaded Darkspawn Daisy Chain tactic.The charge plus support bonuses gave them a fighting chance against the monster to which they succeeded brilliantly, unfortunately they didn't receive those because they were under the effects of a spell that made them mindless but it did give them Martyr so they still got +2 but had to die afterwards. If they had RECEIVED a charge from Rauthoros, even all 7 of them at once, it's unlikely any would have scored a hit because they would have had only a 10% chance to hit instead of a 50%. The long and short is that the game rewards for aggressive play. 3 units charging one unit usually results in the charged unit's death and a wound or two possibly on the aggressors. Some SA's make charging a unit unpalatable (FIrst Strike/Pike) but the advantage is still to the attacker as they get to dictate who takes a spear in the eye. Setting up a good charge and maximizing support and #MA is one of the things I like best about Warlord. If you don't believe me on this I would be glad to take you on anytime and show you the difference in receiving the charges or giving them :) Ranged units - Ranged units are pricey for a reason you are right. That was something else that was tested extensively. Since Warlord is a melee skirmish game I believe the intent was to err on underpowered archers versus over powered. That being said though, archery units are far from underpowered. Just like if you choose to make melee a focus for your list so to must you build your list to accomodate for archers particular strengths and weaknesses. There are builds for each faction that can quite effectively highlight the brutal power of ranged attacks. One of the favored is the Ivy Crown archers for the crusaders. With Lady Jehanne in command of 10 archers and an elite for bless you now have a unit that will consistently put out 10 RAV 6 shots or RAV 5 at long range. That's pretty fierce and will make short work of many soldiers. Couple them with Lady Devona and you now have access to Whirlwind to keep enemies in disarray and unable to approach. Throw in a couple of troops for a picket line (like wardogs with their Short SA) and you now have a very defensible firebase from which to black out the sky. All in all a ton of testing went into the various ways Warlord could be configured. I won't speak to CAV or Reich as those games both have dynamics I am unfamiliar with but I can tell you that the deeper you dig into Warlord, the more elegant it seems to become. I've only found one broken list in this new edition and believe me I excel at finding the broken in game systems. . .well most systems in general. And even though it's a broken list it's still not entirely broken, it has to be played the right way or it's defeatable as easily as any other list. Even after years of playing it with no revisions or anything I am STILL finding new and interesting builds and combinations for the factions. Just wish I had more time to test my theory crafting for practicality ha! I hope that addressed properly the points you rose. If it didn't please let me know and I am more than glad to expand upon my notions or even make them more succinct as I see I have typed a bit. . . Cheers! I haven't gotten to chat about Warlord in a long time so I'm a bit rusty as to everything and why, plus I wrote this past midnight and nothing good happens past midnight if you are over 30.

Base coat of Snakeman Warrior: 3:1 Sun Yellow/Clear Green Base Coat of Marsh Troll: 3:2:1 Clear Blue/Clear Green/Breonne Blue Some thoughts: 1. I can't any painted images of these guys on the net and so am preparing myself for confusion about fiddly bits. 2. Holy crap that troll took a lot of paint.

Here's my genie, 03254: Naseer, Genie of Hakir.

Here's my conversion of 03114 Deva into a silver draconian. I took off her head, used a modified head from the dragon conversion pack as well as a tail, and used wings from 03534 Sirithis succubus. And I filled in the clothing on the body so it was less revealing. The base I made myself from green stuff to match the bases of the other family members.

Based on my joyful experience in going through my shipment of Bones which arrived today, I think Wyrmgear himself confirms that there ARE different types of plastic being used for their various different qualities. It's quite obvious that Wyrmgear's various pieces are made of different plastics, particularly the wings. Based on how different they are, and how good they look, I would say this was a deliberate choice. Which means it's very likely that other models have used slightly different formulations of plastic for various reasons, as Kay indicated. I don't have Kally, so I can't report any more than that. On a related note, as someone who has done technical support for a couple decades now, there is a very important factor that makes it easier for a company to track down a problem more than a mere quantity of complaints will. It is the quality of the data received - "It's broken" is never ever as helpful as "It doesn't work when I do this" is. Comparisons to a known condition is especially helpful, particularly if it can be used to recreate the potential problem. FREX, "it's no more bendy than a skeleton's spear" or "I could use the wing to bend the horns" is a lot better quality data than "it's spongy". Spongy is a perceptive thing that may be different for each person, whereas bending the horns with the wing is something Reaper can reproduce and decide if it is normal, or not. Bottom line - a thousand complaints of "It's spongy" is not going to be as helpful to Reaper as a hundred, or even 50 people reporting back exactly how a specific part responds to a specific stimulus will be. I am not pointing this out to trivialize anyone's complaint, only mentioning it because I can't even count the numbers of times I've had someone chew me out because I can't fix their problem without data they won't provide. A lot of people don't seem to understand that if they take an actual interest in helping to solve the problem they're complaining about, it will almost always be solved faster than if they just sit back and complain.

Thanks guys. Tonight's work: Highlights: 3:2 Forest Green/Jade Green 3:5 Forest Green/Jade Green Straight Jade Green 2:1 Jade Green/Sun Yellow Eyes: Splattered Crimson 1:1 Splattered Crimson/Sun Yellow Teeth, Handle and Skull: Splattered Bone washed Blackened Brown then Highlighted back with Splintered Bone Chest Strap: 2:1 Oiled Leather/Splintered Bone Gory Red 2:1 Gory Red/Splintered Bone Wash of Blackened Brown Club Spikes and Chainmail: Honed Steel then washed with Blackened Brown Base: Ruddy Leather Stone Grey Wash of Blackened Brown I am going to call this one 90%+ done. I am tempted to be done with it now, but I am sure that someone will point something out that it can use (like the fact that I am not thrilled about the color choice of the loincloth - I am half-tempted to make it some crazy bright color).

Here's my wraith: