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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/30/13 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Ok, got my bones yesterday and now it's time to paint them! I started by boiling and cooling couple of skeletons and a Pathfinder goblin. It worked and now they're standing straight! So I decided to start my painting marathon (which I think will last for about ten years) by speed painting the straightened goblin to a tabletop quality. I painted base colours straight on with undilluted Citadel paints. This is not a good thing for me 'cause I like to use a wet palette. My paints dry up (slow painter, even when speed painting) and will eventually ruin my brushes. So I think I'll try some spray primer next. After base colours it was mostly few washes and then one highlighting phase. Anyway, here's the goblin. I think many of my Bones won't see paint quality better than this, 'cause I'll approve this for my Pathfinder games =). Next I'll try to spray the skeletons and see what happens! =)
  2. 7 points
    I think they'd be more apt to taking down reindeer... being Lap dogs and all. Man I miss Faulty Towers.
  3. 4 points
    I am excited! And I already have mine! But I am excited that soon I won't have to feel guilty! Or try to avoid painting my new Bones while I wait for people to catch up! But at least my orcs are getting done! My coffee is strong today! YYYYYAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY! I'm going to go run for a few hours!
  4. 3 points
    Wow. You must have been in love if you moved out to Chilliwack. *Ziiing!!!* I kid of course. I'm sure Chilliwack will be a lovely town once they get their roads paved...
  5. 2 points
    From a very early age, I had no parents...as my profile states...I have been married to a wonderful lady for (40+) years...her father became the closest thing to my having a " dad " and with all my love and respect through his living years...I called him " pop ". I built this piece as a nostalgic memory of that wonderful man (T.O. Dunn). T. O. Dunn Junkyard & Salvage: Vintage pickup truck...at the gas pump is a Wheelworks metal miniature truck kit. Rusted junk car...car in work area...tractor...are all die-cast toys that have been reworked. Human figures...are all Preiser figures. The diorama is completely scratch built...all the wooden buildings (office/outhouse/lumber area/car work hoist/building under construction/front gate/fences) are all built to scale with/from hardwood scale lumber...The tiny office is completely detailed on the inside...the whole diorama is wired so that all the lights in the office & on the power poles work. All of the hundreds of items found within the junkyard are either scratch built or items from my parts box. I have tried to give you an overall and panoramic view of the piece...I am sorry to say that I can not show the dozens of tiny details that are contained within these few posted photographs...but I hope that you enjoy this brief look at one of the " pieces of my miniature pride ". Thank you...Catdancer!
  6. 2 points
    The bOx is heRe! tHE BoX Is hEre!!!
  7. 2 points
    I learn new manwords every day on this site.
  8. 2 points
    And you call yourself a goblin. It was my rebellious phase. I did all kinds of stuff, just acting out. Cleaned my room, even. Came in before dark. Shared with friends. My parents were worried sick about me all the time.
  9. 2 points
    W00T! Just got a phone call from my offspring and the package just arrived in Port Moody! (1:59 PM, PST) As expected, his first question after letting me know it had arrived was whether he could open the box or not. He did sound a little disappointed but not exactly surprised when I said "No! You have to wait for me to get home!" ... ... ... okay ... calm down ... deep breath ... in through the nose ... out through the mouth ... ... there's no need to hyperventilate. It's only another 3 hours before you can leave... ... ... ... OMG! SQUEEEEE! UPDATE: I've been refreshing my tracking page since my son called. It just flipped over to saying "Delivered On: Tuesday, 07/30/2013 at 13:55" (It's currently 2:15 PM on my clock). It also says "Left at front door" although we know it was accepted by my son.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    I found it was less like Christmas, and more like memories of a successful dentist office visit. No cavities? Behaved self? Dig through the box of little plastic toys.
  12. 2 points
    For pinning into very small pieces, you do, indeed need a very small bit. But to start the hole, I recommend using the tip of a sharp, new #11 blade to make a dimple where you want the hole (especially true with metal minis). It will reduce the chance of the bit slipping before you get a real start on a hole. The other tip for drilling metal is to use a small amount of a light machine oil like 3-in-1 on the bit. The bit will cut faster, be less likely to bind and break, and will last longer.
  13. 2 points
    What this tells us, though, isn't that the Eagles always save the day or act as Deus Ex Machinae - it's that the Eagles are brotastic jerkwads who won't get involved until the hard work is done and they know who the winning team is so they can swoop in and take all the credit. The eagles are show business executives! Frodo: "Hide, Gandalf, hide! Quickly!" Gandalf: "Oh? What's this all about?" Samwise: "It's Gwaihir, Mr. Gandalf! He's just showed up, and he has notes!"
  14. 2 points
    Interesting you mention the dragonslayer, because mine is the mini that impressed me most of all. Could be a consistency issue. ETA; I just dug her out and checked her agains the Janan painted example on the Kickstarter Bones insert and all her details are present. Right down to scale mail, fiddly buckles, and crown. But she is ridiculously tiny so I might have a lucky good version. I dunno. I have a lot to paint right now, when it thins a bit I'll paint her up and see. Mostly things seem to have crossed over pretty good. A few models have face issues that were noted, and a couple have structural stability issues. But the overwhelming majority of models came out as good as, or IMO in many cases much better, than the First 29. I have face issue and stability issue new Bones, which does shower on my funtimes a bit, but balancing that out I am super incredible amazing holy crap impressed with lots of the new arrivals. Blown away.
  15. 2 points
    Don't be hard on yourself - offering constructive criticism is really valuable and I do think that a lot of the painters here really appreciate it (me included!). As you said, this is a great community, and I think as long as criticism is positive and constructive, it is never a bad thing.
  16. 1 point
    I have access to UV cure CA glue (and an UV curing station) which would make much nicer bonds. How do the Bones respond to UV? I will try it on some sprue first, but has Reaper looked into this at all?
  17. 1 point
    Here is the Bones Master List 'Let's Paint Reaper Bones!!!!!' of all WIP of the Bones Miniatures. I'm thinking about how to base one of the most discussed KS Bones: Ok, I know there is only one Cloud Giantess in the moment, but if there will be another one in the future, it could be posted in this thread, too. I think her pose should be used on the base. "This way!" "Don't trust Mr. Bones! It is there." "Stop! Friend or Foe?"
  18. 1 point
    Sir, are you a henchman? No, I only go as far as lackey.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    The blade is a falchion kinda thing, so that right (camera left) highlight was derived from how that curves. The bottom curves back in, and I figured some reflection from the boots. I also used the first WIP pic as a guide for shadows. Then I started blocking that in, and felt a three part blade worked ok. Then I went back on that a little on the upper front because I didn't want highlight under the guard, so I put a little shadow in there. Just messing around, really. Looking at a lot of how other people did things. It's definitely a blade in fantasy land, you wouldn't see highlights like that in a photo.
  21. 1 point
    Nice. How long did that take to complete?
  22. 1 point
    chilluns: southern for multiple young humans. Sentence example: These here chilluns are plum tuckered, bless their little hearts.
  23. 1 point
    So, I got my bones and just thought to myself Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious.
  24. 1 point
    The Eagles are not deus ex machina (from TVTropes: A Deus Ex Machina is when some new event, character, ability, or object solves a seemingly unsolvable problem in a sudden, unexpected way.), they are literally divine intervention in Tolkien's world. It was Ilúvatar taking direct action in the (was going to say mortal realm, but that's not quite right). More, it was Ilúvatar being subtle. When he takes unsubtle action, continents are destroyed.
  25. 1 point
    Considering the amount of metal you get, the prices in the Robot Supply Depot can't be beat. After Reaper pulled CAV from distribution they could drop the prices a little and some of them are simply amazing. $8 for an Ogre or Emperor is amazing. But then the pricing in the CAV section makes absolutely no sense. $17 for a Centurion??? 16 bucks for a pair of Lance tanks that aren't even N-Scale? Then there's ones like the Cougar and Jaguar: both are pretty much the same size, but one is $9 and the other $10, despite both of them being way smaller than the Revenent which is only $8 in the Supply Depot. Likewise the Archer is $10 in the CAV section, while its big brother the Ronin is only $8 in the Depot.
  26. 1 point
    I think they prefer to be called "Chileans".
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I read various articles discussing NMM before attempting it. The general guideline seems to be you want the highlights and shadows reversed along hard edges. It isn't completely universal though. I like the suggestion in this guide which has you roughly sketch out the shading on paper so you can eyeball it and figure out if it looks 'natural' to your eyes. I'll probably do that in the future. So far I've mostly just looked at a lot of examples and tried to adapt them to whatever it is I'm painting.
  29. 1 point
    The patterns of light and dark in actual metals are caused by specular (direct front surface) reflections of localized light sources. When you paint in things that are intended to be specular reflections, you need to consider the position and size of any notional light sources. TL;DR: There's no standard pattern of reflections.
  30. 1 point
    The LTPK doesn't really cover how to do the pattern outside of the two figures that comes with it, in fact I found it really disappointing for everything but the color recipes. They're basically set up as paint by numbers with maybe a sentence or two explaining the whole color you're going to paint but none of that info is really that useful.
  31. 1 point
    1.) I love this. It has tons of character and you really are talented. 2.) I have an NMM question and I'm cheap and lazy and like free advice (this means I'm trying to avoid buying the very much suggested L2PK for NMM). I understand blending. I understand that the sword is simply using blended greys and whites to create the illusion of metal. But - how do you determine the pattern? Meaning this - the left side of the blade (as you look at it) is dark/light/dark from top to bottom, and the opposite side is the...opposite. Light/dark/light from top to bottom. I suppose I understand why one side is the reflective opposite of the other, but was it arbitrary that the left side was dark/light/dark? Meaning - could you just have easily done light/dark/light on the left side and the opposite on the right? What sort of logic goes into how the pattern is determined? I have a feeling I am seriously over-thinking the NMM here but I'm just trying to wrap my little monkey brain around how the pattern is chosen. The effects are self-evident and look really good. I need to learn to do this.
  32. 1 point
    Ludo's redneck fix. Go to your auto parts or hardware store and get some glazing putty. It will go on thin enough to be level with the paint but strong enough to not chip back off.
  33. 1 point
    Don't stop there… catalogue ALL OF THEM!
  34. 1 point
    http://www.frpgames.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=3006 That's where I plan to finish out my collection of bases. The prices don't seem too high, considering. And they have multiple shapes and sizes as well as lipped and un-lipped. I don't know how bad shipping to Canada would be, but it's worth taking a look at it. The other option is contacting something like TheWarStore and asking them about bulk pricing. Sometimes they will cut a break for people ordering a lot of something... and considering I have about 300 bases I'll need...
  35. 1 point
    It does look like an Air Dragon, born among clouds, really cool!! I love it!
  36. 1 point
    I was used to work with some cheap epoxy putty that I could find in Argentina; it was not until a few months ago that I bought GS during a trip to Spain and started working on it. It is definitely tacky and more "gummy" that what I was used to. To prevent it to stick to your tools and fingers you need to keep everything lubricated all the time. Water works, spit does as well (but beware, it is not food!) and I heard vaseline is perfect. I use water and although it requires dipping the tools every few seconds it works, since the GS does not absorb it nor break down (as opposed to Milliput, for example). The gummy-ness can work in your favour, because GS stretches. No way around it. I recall reading about boiling it for a minute in a microwave (let the recently mixed ball into a container full of water and microwave it for a minute) to soften it more, but haven't tried and am not sure it would actually work... I am just learning to use GS As far as how to do what I suggested: - For the mouth: I would do a small ball of GS and stick in right above the beard, and below the nose. Push it flat-ish against the face. Trim, push and pull to get an oval sitting on the side. Then gently mark it in vertical lines, barely pushing on the surface (to create the creases you see in monkey skin). Then cut it with a knife (xacto or a modelling putty knife) along what would make the opening of the mouth. Insert a flat tool and open, this motion will also create the "lips". Play with it - For the ridges, I would roll up a small, thin strip of GS and apply as if I was sculpting super thick eyebrows. Use your tools to push/pull this into the forehead, to blend it in. Let is sit if you achieve a good shape and when cured add more to smooth it out. It usually pays to be patient and build gradually. But I am sure you can pull it off! Edit: You can get Milliput, which is much softer to sculpt on in my experience. Up to now, working with GS for me is like re-learning the craft... in a sense, it is like convincing my wife of something: sometimes to need to pull when you want to push, etc.
  37. 1 point
    Yes, the only good Marine is a Submarine. To all my friends in the Corps, I kid, I kid. Don't hurt me. (again)
  38. 1 point
    As the others have said, while Reaper is primarily known for their fantasy minis, they do produce miniatures from a much wider selection of genres. Post away Catdancer!
  39. 1 point
    @Willen - Good stuff. A quick question regarding green stuff. I noticed that it is REALLY sticky and kind of hard to work with, how do people usually compensate for the tackiness of it so that they can work with it and do the things that you are talking about like the brow ridge and the bigger mouth? I'm going to have to do some really tiny alterations there since this mini's face is especially small and thin inside that hood of his (which is why I thought maybe of doing a mask/veil kind of thing instead). As far as tidy lines go, I think I'm starting to do better. The pics above were the first few coats and I've since repainted him and need to clean them up again and do some highlights. I'm not super concerned with it being perfect since it is a table top piece rather than for competition or for show, I'm sure it'll get beat up a little bit.
  40. 1 point
    They're HERE!!! http://members.shaw.ca/gobblinal/share/Bones_01.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/gobblinal/share/Bones_02.jpg
  41. 1 point
    Pardon me for jumping in but I just realized that the CAV minis are N-Scale! I do N-ScaleSteam Rail, and recently, two years ago, started doing Stteampunk, and my imagination is all over the concept of Steam CAV! I'll have to look into picking up some pieces, though a potential Bones-CAV KS would be better for my wallet. :-)
  42. 1 point
    Can you lightly sand the paint edges out a bit? Then you can paint it all back together no issues.
  43. 1 point
    purple is such a wonderful color, until you have to work with it.
  44. 1 point
    Would just like to report, as I have been vocal about the minis delivery, that my Package arrived today, along with my order from amazon and my order from chapters. Today is a good day.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks guys! A lizard's belly color often extends to the inside of its legs (for example), so that's what I modeled that decision after. The orange and purple, by the way, comes from my cousin's orange bearded dragon, whose back and "beard" turns partially black/purple when it's agitated, like this.
  46. 1 point
    Our Bones must be truck-mates. Mine departed from the same facility at the same time - just waiting for that truck to shop up at my workplace here in Langley :)
  47. 1 point
    My notice is the same, and I can see Annacis Island from my place. Which means that their truck must go out to do the furthest deliveries first, and then work their way back towards the depot... So you'll probably be getting yours before I'll be getting mine. However that does mean my day off is pretty much shot, as I don't want to go anywhere for fear of missing the delivery and I find I can't concentrate on anything I'm doing here. Except constantly going to the front window to watch the street.
  48. 1 point
    And there you have it. Reaper's next Kickstarter. The Dung Monster Cookie Jar.
  49. 1 point
    I've primed two Bones minis with Army Painter white spray primer. Other than the models being flexible, the paint behaved just like on metal. I need to dig them out and shoot new pics for reference. The Ogre is nearing 1 year and the Bathalian 6 months.
  50. 1 point
    I decided to leave the upper jaw and eyestalk detached. The figure opens like a cookie jar the way it's constructed. There's not enough room for another figure in there, but a few gems might be in there for an adventurer foolish enough to look.
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