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Here are a few of the many figures I've had sitting partially painted for years. Now there are complete enough for me to feel finished with them. I figure I'll keep adding figures to this thread unless they're identifiable as a Reaper figure, in which case I'll give it its own fresh thread. I don't remember how or where I got all of them, so please point it out if you recognize something. Without further ado: Legless blue dragon-alligator thing: Firedrake: Celtic Warlord guy:

I finally got my Kickstarter and got a chance to try my hand at painting minis. This is my first one ever. Overall, I am happy with the results. It looks way better than I ever expected, as I have no artistic ability. Not happy with the way the ground turned out, but I can always change that. I also wish I had used a different color on the pants. All in all, I am very happy with the result.

It's not an Otyugh, yet it matches much of the text description of that monster without referencing the illustration at all! http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Dark%20Heaven%20Legends/sku-up/02737

As a change of pace from my fantasy miniature painting and fantasy terrain building; I work in the modern era in areas that deal with modern mercenary models and figures. This is a (Congo Keel Boat). On the river it is known by the common name of (river taxi)...the version depicted here is (23'6") with a draft of (2'4")...used for moving just about anything on the Congo river system. The most famous version of this boat (a longer version) was depicted in the 1951 movie (The African Queen) with Humphrey Bogart. The model is 97% scratch built in the 1/35th scale area and in the " princess " line of such boats that were common from about 1928 to current day on both the Congo and Nile river systems. My figures (in the works currently) are a modern day (5 man) mercenary team using converted pieces/figures from the 1/35th scale U.S. Ranger team produced by (Shanghai/Dragon). The 3% non-scratch built items are all items from my parts box...all lumber used was scale hardwood...As you can see, the cabin section can be removed.

This is one of my favorite Bones Mini's. He has a lot of detail work left to do, but I think he's coming along fairly well so far. More to follow in a few days.

During his quest to Bring 'Em Back Alive, Frank Buck wandered deep in the jungle. There, he discovered untold treasures from a lost civilisation. At the heart of the wild, he came across a strange Exotic Idol. It was carved in volcanic and marble stone, decorated with jade, ivory and gold. Silently guarding ancient artefacts, warning foes not to pass. I painted them using only the Master Series Paint available in the Kickstarter options. I hope you'll enjoy. 03514, Exotic Idol scultped by Jason Wiebe 50204, Frank Buck the Adventurer sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.

03514, Exotic Idol sculpted by Jason Wiebe. It was painted as if it was made of volcanic and marble stone, ornated with jade and gold. I carved the stone tiles on the base, added plastic plants and static grass. Comments are very welcome.

50204, Frank Buck the Adventurer Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. I think he turned out to have Mark Ruffalo's face playing Bruce Banner in the Avengers movie. Maybe he's looking for rare medicinal plants in the jungle. But then, would he really need guns? Or could it be that... We meet again, Dr. Jones. Anyway, this model was a blast to paint. I used only Master Series Paint and added plastic plants on the base. As usual, Your comments are always very welcome.

About four years ago I started painting Kyra & Lavarath. Then I broke my wrist, then I deployed, then I moved, then I focused on trying to finish off a variety of sci-fi projects that were close to done but not quite, then I got Dreadball, well you get the idea. I decided that since I am now retired from the Army and waiting on word whether or not I'm getting the job I want I have some time to work on some minis...or one big one. So I opened the cabinet of shame and there are two long dormant figures staring back at me...the Warlord Hill Giant and Lavarath. Dragons are cooler. So I got the air compressor out and used the blow gun to knock the dust off and used a stiff brush to get the stubborn bits. Then tried to remember what color I was using for the scales (with was PP Turf Green). Here's were I left off in 2009: I settled on HD Desert Tan to base coat the underbelly and raised scales. It looks a bit light now, but once I do the shading it won't. Didn't get very far on this color as I kept floating back and forth between various activities throughout the day. I see few spots where I need to clean up around the edges. Let's see how long this holds out...

Ok, got my bones yesterday and now it's time to paint them! I started by boiling and cooling couple of skeletons and a Pathfinder goblin. It worked and now they're standing straight! So I decided to start my painting marathon (which I think will last for about ten years) by speed painting the straightened goblin to a tabletop quality. I painted base colours straight on with undilluted Citadel paints. This is not a good thing for me 'cause I like to use a wet palette. My paints dry up (slow painter, even when speed painting) and will eventually ruin my brushes. So I think I'll try some spray primer next. After base colours it was mostly few washes and then one highlighting phase. Anyway, here's the goblin. I think many of my Bones won't see paint quality better than this, 'cause I'll approve this for my Pathfinder games =). Next I'll try to spray the skeletons and see what happens! =)

Since my current postings deal with older figures (vintage, if you will) and display my very early figure painting attempts (which began about 18 months or so ago)...I decided to post the (very 1st fantasy miniature that I ever painted). He is a chaos lord/knight from the old Citadel figures...I have no SKU data on him...This was/is the 1st miniature gaming piece I painted for my RPG group. Prior to using metal miniature figures (I used Steve Jackson card figures for both the adventure group and all enemy)...He is finished in a heavy gloss finish so that he wears well during all the heavy game play handling. The figure was named (by me) The Dark Lord " Vazar of Darth "...all of you can guess who the figure was based on.

I think they'd be more apt to taking down reindeer... being Lap dogs and all. Man I miss Faulty Towers.

(Long) WIP here

Ok, so a brief run down on this guy. I painted this entirely with craft paints except for a couple of washes that I keep pre-mixed. I started off intending to layer shadows, and highlights, but I got pretty tired of fighting the paint. I had a lot of trouble getting the paints to thin down thin enough for layers without going too thin. I eventually gave up. My bad. All the metal was base coated with Craftsmart Dark grey. Then I put down two layers of thinned FolkArt Metallic Silver Sterling. I then washed with a pre-mix black ink wash, and dry brushed on highlights. The cloth is Delta Wedgewood Green. The fur is a mixture of FolkArt Coffee Brown and Moon Yellow to make a nasty mustard color. All the leather was done with the Coffee Brown. Nails and teeth were done with Delta Fleshtone. The wood on the shield is Coffee Brown mixed with the Wedgewood green. All non-metal areas were washed with a burnt umber pre-mixed wash, and dry brushed highlights. The base was a mixture of Craftsmart red and Coffee Brown and Moon Yellow with a black wash. Comments and critique welcome.

Part of my Cheap Fantasy minis project: good, not great, minis on a budget. Read about weapon swaps and the like here, or just check out photos of the painted minis.

I still need to glue the arms/head in place and base it... but he's pretty much done.

So, I don't know where else to post this, since my Facebook friends have no idea what I am talking about, but I had to share. Keith Baker (Eberron, Gloom, etc.) posted a Happy Birthday comment on my Facebook today. Eberron IS my D&D world of choice. This made my day, for sure!

From the day we arrive on the forums And posting, step into the threads, There's more to paint than can ever be painted, More to say from the fluff in our heads. There's far too much to take in here, Shelves of Shame that can never be bare, But Ms. Ladystorm's bat Keeps the threads on their tracks Keeps newbs and peeps out of Bryan's hair. It's the Circle of Memes And it moves us all Through derails and splits, Through Cthuloid bards, Til the goblin sneaks Out the paints of Partha In the Circle, The Circle of Memes.

Took the bones goblins to use as my warhammer quest hobgoblins. Still amazed at the detail that is captured on these super inexpensive miniatures!

Did half my Bones rats this weekend, with the help of my airbrush. They're a quick job, meant for gaming.

I am excited! And I already have mine! But I am excited that soon I won't have to feel guilty! Or try to avoid painting my new Bones while I wait for people to catch up! But at least my orcs are getting done! My coffee is strong today! YYYYYAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY! I'm going to go run for a few hours!

I always liked the flautist here. Reminds me of Jason and the Argonauts (or was it the original Clash of the Titans?)I like him but, oh dear, does he have one hand backwards? When playing a fipple (horizontal) flute, it extends to the player's right. [ ... ] A skeleton playing a flute has so many problems to contend with... ...the lack of air for the flute... ...caused by the lack of lungs ...the awkward hand position and reversed fingering may just be his [or her?] sleight of hand attempt to distract the audience from the larger problem.

Hail, hail the Remarkable Farkle McBride! His glorious, big box of minis arrived! Three vamps all sorted and not a mini misplaced, (some minor rebending is all he will face). Two Kallys, a Nethyr and Cthulhu to slay, With no problems at all (‘cept that shipping delay). The forces, the giants and one big ol’ skelly, Are now ready to turn all his players to jelly. Ready, of course, with one small exception … Farkle’s still gotta paint all these plastic injections!

My inventory so far: (Got the pledge with two friends, we check only two boxes) Missing: One Bonnie, Futuristic Heroine & one Ice Giant King´s Head. Surplus: One Ice Giant King´s Arm, one Isiri Arachinid Archer torso & 1 bag of NOVAs. Very very happy!

I am working on an entry for a miniatures/modeling competition in September. A month ago I found a very old model of an interceptor from the tv show UFO. So I thought that would be good to enter. In the show the interceptors were hidden in a secret moonbase. They would be lifted to the surface on elevators inside lunar craters. So I cut the center out of an old GW crater. The elevator floor will be a lid from a plastic container.

Wow. You must have been in love if you moved out to Chilliwack. *Ziiing!!!* I kid of course. I'm sure Chilliwack will be a lovely town once they get their roads paved...

Craft paints are good for the army painter who wants finished models on the table, not the competition or contract painter. I started out with craft paints on my 40k models and experienced the same things you did, but after a while you do find the sweet spot for thinning the paints. I achieved OK results and got the armies on the table (results can be seen at the bottom of this page). Now I mostly use Reaper paints because I can afford them, which wasn't always the case. I do still use craft paints for bases as there are a couple colors I really like for dirt and for terrain items because I squirm at the thought of using so much of my "good" paint to cover things like hills and buildings. I also use black craft paint for edging the bases of my figures because all I'm concerned with is covering the edge in black. Another advantage is availability. I use Apple Barrel for my craft paint and it can be found in any Wal Mart, even when I was in South Korea. Now, if you want to see something funny, this figure was painted with q-tips and craft paint in response to a challenge to paint a figure with only cotton swabs. The discussion thread can be found here

Nothing finished, just getting colors blocked in so I can make sure my shading and contrast are where they need to be. Even so, she's starting to materialize.

The larger hole implied that you're insetting the whole end of the tail into the figure. Which would with your pin create the most stability for the figure. However, with the green stuff and pin in place, then I would notch out from under the tail like the omega shows ... then buildup the cut cloak ends to create a flowing ragged ripped section. That should give you extra stability on the join with the added green stuff under the tail. Remove the Yellow and add the green. Building up under the tail a bit. Obviously you want to ragged the green stuff cloak edges. You might even borrow the shape from the vampire's cloak in the KS.

Whooo!!! I get to make post #1000!!!! Ascension! Now to think of a clever motto for Goddess-hood involving Sculpey. Any ideas?

After all those years of pitching AOL disks in the trash, now I discover an actual use for them!

Ok this is my first try with a sci-fi miniature.... to be honest the casting of this one is a bit subpar, there are lines appearing and disappearing and the weapon is a huge blob of plastic, a bit disappointed with the quality i'm used to see for the other bones! That being said i've tried to futurize the nova corps going for a tron style (it is a great training for painting lines almost freehand):

From a very early age, I had no parents...as my profile states...I have been married to a wonderful lady for (40+) years...her father became the closest thing to my having a " dad " and with all my love and respect through his living years...I called him " pop ". I built this piece as a nostalgic memory of that wonderful man (T.O. Dunn). T. O. Dunn Junkyard & Salvage: Vintage pickup truck...at the gas pump is a Wheelworks metal miniature truck kit. Rusted junk car...car in work area...tractor...are all die-cast toys that have been reworked. Human figures...are all Preiser figures. The diorama is completely scratch built...all the wooden buildings (office/outhouse/lumber area/car work hoist/building under construction/front gate/fences) are all built to scale with/from hardwood scale lumber...The tiny office is completely detailed on the inside...the whole diorama is wired so that all the lights in the office & on the power poles work. All of the hundreds of items found within the junkyard are either scratch built or items from my parts box. I have tried to give you an overall and panoramic view of the piece...I am sorry to say that I can not show the dozens of tiny details that are contained within these few posted photographs...but I hope that you enjoy this brief look at one of the " pieces of my miniature pride ". Thank you...Catdancer!

The bOx is heRe! tHE BoX Is hEre!!!

I learn new manwords every day on this site.

W00T! Just got a phone call from my offspring and the package just arrived in Port Moody! (1:59 PM, PST) As expected, his first question after letting me know it had arrived was whether he could open the box or not. He did sound a little disappointed but not exactly surprised when I said "No! You have to wait for me to get home!" ... ... ... okay ... calm down ... deep breath ... in through the nose ... out through the mouth ... ... there's no need to hyperventilate. It's only another 3 hours before you can leave... ... ... ... OMG! SQUEEEEE! UPDATE: I've been refreshing my tracking page since my son called. It just flipped over to saying "Delivered On: Tuesday, 07/30/2013 at 13:55" (It's currently 2:15 PM on my clock). It also says "Left at front door" although we know it was accepted by my son.

I found it was less like Christmas, and more like memories of a successful dentist office visit. No cavities? Behaved self? Dig through the box of little plastic toys.

Great Googly-Moogly! Mine's out for delivery from Annacis Island (technically part of Delta, BC but just south of New Westminster) as of 6:15 AM! My almost-15 year old is going to be salivating over the box once it shows up, but I know he won't open it until I get home. He's a good one, that way. ... ... ... ... OMG. I'm so excited. How on earth am I going to make it through the day?!?

Pretty much done at this point, or as done as I'm going to be before I get back. Not gonna base him here. Added a little bit of white to the eyes. Decided not to get too fancy with it. Used some Fuegan Orange shade from Citadel to bring out the details on the edging of his robes. The back of the robes... Not my best work. I found it a pain getting the genestealer purple to blend with the Reaper Imperial purple. Ended up going back over a lot of it with the original shade, just to get something that wouldn't look entirely like it was painted by a blind special-needs chimp. Had some fun with the gem. To add the darker bits near the top, I mixed Reaper Jungle Moss with the Vallejo fluorescent green. Worked out pretty well, at least for tabletop. The other side of the gem.

Well it only took about 8 months but I finally finished it. This is a present for my sister, was going to be Christmas but instead now it's a birthday. The dwarf is from Center Stage and the elf is from Feeblades. You can see the WIP here. Didn't get to work on the elf as much as I would have liked, he's got about half the amount of time into him as the dwarf but since I painted them up six months apart I was able to use some of the improved (ie quicker) techniques so while it was half the time it's not quite as noticeable (though I really need a few more hours). The only real place I'm not happy is the elf face, I had some primer issues and I should have stripped and started over Click for a much larger photo.

I started painting my Wolfie the other day and had no problems: I only gave him a scrub with water and soap before I started painting, no primer or anything. I started with a layer of slightly thinned paints, it didn't go on well and it was patchy but when it dried I put another slightly thicker layer over the top and the the paint started adhering nicely. I think this base coat was done with 3 or 4 layers? I took special care to make sure each layer was dry before adding more so I wasn't just pulling off the paint I'd just put on. I haven't had any problems handling him and paint coming off. Not sure if my experience is unusual but I certainly didn't give him any special treatment.

It's still disheartening that we're being processed at the same time, since as far as we heard the plan was to be Undertakers last.

I sometimes forget there are games for the figures we paint.

I glued pennies to the Jabberwock's base, and that seems to have shut his slithy tove. He's frabjously stable now. Also I may have threatened him with a vorpal x-acto #11.

Absurd, right? That armor must be strong to be able to suspend both her chest and my disbelief. I love it.

Thank you very much, guys. Appreciate the old school love. Here's one that isn't anywhere near as old but not contemporary, either. A minor conversion of Gwenlaen the Everproud , Kelt Fianna Champion. Snipped her pigtails for a sleeker cut, and swapped her arms out for the arms from the limited ed. Kelt musician. Went for an aged tarnished metal look, possibly enchanted, on the armor, as most of the models I have painted so far for my Kelts have tooled leather armor and I wanted her stand to out. Also went for a faux Damascus pattern on the blade. Confrontation. Pour one out. Thanks for looking.

I completed more work on the first circuit (why stop at one?). Of note, I found this page helpful to check my math and make sure everything seems right: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz I've decided to use three LEDs in each loop. Each will have one blue LED (3.4V) and two green LEDs (2.1V each). This gives me a total of 7.6V on my 9V circuit. I'll use a low value resister (68 ohms) on each circuit to drop the voltage and keep my LEDs as bright and as cool as possible. The last part is something I read about on an electrical hobby board where the poster was using LEDs for power supply indication. I don't expect any of my LEDs would get hot enough to damage the bones, but paint can do funny things when exposed to heat (cracking / discoloring) Putting everything together is pretty easy. I started out by soldering each of the leads on the blue LED to a 22 gauge wire. Then, to keep from shorting out anything once assembled, I used electrical tape to insulate my leads and soldered joints. I widened the hole in her neck wide enough to slip my LED and wires down. I fed my wires down to her chest cavity and the reattached her neck. From here, it was easy to mix up a big batch of green stuff so I could hide the wires. It ended up looking something like this (note, the floral wire in her mouth is an armeture for her tounge):