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The Dragon Hatchling sculpts are cute, but the Bones casts are terrible. Due to this I didn't try to clean them up well and just put them on new bases. Either way it is two more models off the bench and painted to an acceptable toy box level...and so what if I painted the geen one red and the black one green! btw I touched up the splotchy black base rims after I took this picture. Comments encouraged, Mike

Not sure if I have posted these in the past but my recent project was to build a background for pics of post apocalyptic miniatures. Used the hirst arts bridge mold some card stock that I corrugated using a toothpaste squeezer and some kraken wargames scatter terrain. Hope you like it.

First attempt at OSL. Guildball model "Stoker".

Darksword Margaery Tyrell DSM5075 sculpted by Tom Meier. I struggled with this miniature quite a lot. She was on my painting desk for several years. The reduced size photos make her look a lot better than she really is, so I've added a closeup of the face so you can see where I had challenges with details and blending. Comments and criticism would be gratefully accepted.

This guy was always intended to be toy box level painted. Basecoat, dry/damp brushing, and a light wash of Army painter mid-tone. But I actually really like the way he turned out.

The third and final mini from the Layer Up! LTPK, Julie Guthrie’s Hajad the Pirate: Not gonna try for any better images, because then you would see how badly I messed up the eyes... Mostly by the book, but I skipped the lining as my little brush was becoming temperamental. Of the three minis in this kit, this is the one I was most looking forward to, as it has the most exposed skin of the three (one of my problem areas). Think I oversold the abs a bit too much though. Based on issues with the previous minis, I elected to basecoat both weapon blades with Ebony Flesh before applying the metallic. The Filigree Silver included in the kit was too watery to play nice with bare Bonesium, and in any case it was difficult for me to see where the paint actually stuck. Plus, it makes lighter metallics pop. It was nice to see darker flesh tones included in this kit. The darkest (non-dark elf) skin tone I had available before was Tanned Skin, but my attempts to mix in darker paints always resulted in a weird shade of sadness. All in all, this kit was a good learning experience. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, and it was neat seeing the colors build up with each layer. The cartoons were cute too. I just hope that my technique improves moving forward. And that painting eyes gets easier.

I haven't had a solid night's sleep in over a week now. I keep waking up in the middle of the night, and then again usually anywhere from 30-60 minutes before the alarm goes off. I guess that's what coffee is for. On the upside, my Wednesday game is canceled for this week but the DM is gonna run us today to make up for it... Oh, and here's the stew and soda bread I made yesterday!

I can't seem to get everything to fit back into the box. LMAO I was never really good at Tetris.

Did a little more sculpting today to give them a little detail and personality.

Darksword GlenRaven - Female Rogue with Sword and Dagger DSM3103 Dennis Mize. Any comments, criticism or suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Continuing with my exploration of lighting, I have retrieved GlenRaven from my shelf of shame and I am sending her striding across a grassy knoll at sunset. I had already added the skirt a few years ago when experimenting with greenstuff. First step in rescuing her was to repair the base (I previously tried and failed to remove her) and build a slight hill. Next I marked where I wanted the light to be coming from. The top of the arrow on the cork is aligned with a mark on her base. When I have visually lined up the mark and the arrow, I am looking at her from the lighted direction, which I find helps me be more consistent with light direction. Then I marked the shadow position the same way. And viewed from the front you can see where I have marked all the shadows in a first coat of walnut brown. I also did a very light wash of oxford blue to bring out some of the fine details. Then the eyes, which were very tough to paint. I'm not totally happy with them and may yet repaint them. They are far too big and incorporate both the sculpted eye and her upped cheek. I am finding them very hard to get at. I made lots of progress on the colours tonight. I have added the deepest shadows on the back of the cloak and the back of her hair. I've highlighted the skirt and boots, but I think they need to be brighter and yellower. I haven't yet shaded/highlighted the flesh tones because I want them to match the colour and brightness of the other lighted areas when the sunset colours are added in.

So one of the things I'm doing right now is that I'm about to run a pirate-based campaign, and as such I'm going to try to hone my skills by painting my way through a large chunk of Reaper's pirate and marine based minis, among others! We'll start with an NPC pirate captain: I actually painted him a while ago, but still would love tips in case I go back and touch him up!

Not quite as good a choice - but for $40CA, this will hold a lot of miniatures.... The Auld Grump - and the look on the players faces when they ask 'how many figures does that hold, anyway?' and you answer 'just one....'

I think I regard it more as an accident because I stop consciously thinking about the direction I'm taking. It generally happens when something has gone awry and my brain goes into crisis mode, which is why there are no pictures of the process because it's not that I'm trying to achieve a certain goal, I'm just trying to bring it back from bad. Maybe we're describing the same thing and it's just that my pessimistic nature is showing. Ok, so for the most part I didn't take any step by step pictures of the shield because I was just using the same methods as previous areas. The outer area of the shield I wanted to do in gold, so I basecoated with MSP Malvernian Purple, then over that with P3 Blighted Gold. Attempting a real TMM is something that I've only dabbled with and honestly I'm not sure how to go about taking pictures of steps. I tried and every picture looked exactly the same in my lighting. So I'm just going to tell you that I highlighted with a 50/50 mix of P3 Blighted Gold and P3 Brass Balls, then I did the very edges with straight P3 Brass Balls. For the shadows, I used Secret Weapon Rust Shadow, which does a really beautiful job of dulling down the metallic shine while still having an organic shadow look to it. Really in love with that paint. There are a couple of damage marks in the shield. I used MSP Nightmare Black for those as I was basecoating the inner area of the shield for the Secret Weapon rust treatment. With some real time feedback from Buglips, I went a little bit darker with the rust effect because of the existing texture of the sculpt. So after going all over with all of the steps of the Secret Weapon rust paints, I went back over it with some Rust Shadow. So here's where that left us: Next up, I also wanted to do the round detail on his shield as a gem. So first off when you paint a gem, you want to make sure that you know what direction your light is coming in from. I ten to light from above and slightly to the left for most things, which is the way that I did the highlighting overall on the shield, so that's how my gem will get its lighting as well. So I started out with painting a semicircle with MSP Pure Black in the top left. Then I filled in the rest of the area with MSP Black Green. Then I went over most of the previous area with MSP Clear Green. Then I mixed just a little brush full of Moth Green into the Clear Green and did a semi circle in the bottom right. Then I did a heavy glaze of some more Clear Green. There was a lot of push and pull with this to get the blending right. Then I glazed in some MSP Candlelight Yellow to both further smooth things out and to impart that beautiful glow that glazing Candlelight Yellow over something tends to give. I don't know how obvious that reads on the camera, but I would recommend trying it sometime over green. Lastly I took MSP Pure White and put a couple of little dots in a semicircle shape for the final highlight. Then it was late and I finished up Rictus with a few simple things that I didn't take step by step pictures of. I started by basecoating the horns of his helmet with Secret Weapon Handle Wood. Then I painted the tips of the horns with MSP Pure Black, leaving the edges jagged. I shaded the bottom edges of the horns with a quick mix of SW Handle Wood and SW Rust Shadow. I highlighted the tips of the horns with a couple of quick mixes of MSP Pure Black and SW Handle Wood. Then I basecoated the base with MSP Afterburn Grey (It's a discontinued Heavy Gear paint but tends to be my go to medium grey) and then lined the cracks with Brown Liner, then went over the rim of the stone pattern with SW Rust Shadow. I then glazed in touches of SW Rust Shadow, SW Old Rust and MSP Black Green over the tops of the stones. I highlighted the stones with a couple of quick mixes of the MSP Afterburn Grey with SW Handle Wood. Then I cleaned up the rim of the base with MSP Pure Black. And with that, Rictus was done! Thanks for following along! I hope y'all like him and that maybe this will give you some ideas for painting your own Rictus, or some part of it helps you in some way or that it was just fun for you to follow along with!

This guy was to experiment on achieving realistic light colors on a fairly smooth surface (the apron in this case). After several different tries I was happy with the result...then like normal he sat on the paint desk for months. So I decided to finish him to low tabletop level and wash him in ArmyPainters midtone shade which led to a big tied mark. But he is good enough for my sons toy box. C&C appreciated.

What a neat idea! A graveyard golem!

SABOL ARMY TRANSPORTS spend the money @Pezler the Polychromatic worth every penny... I have 3 company cases and a division case..... my Iron Warriors are inn 1 my Flames of war Germans in another The division case has my FoW Americans... the other is for travelling to Texas in the fall...

I want to thank everyone who was involved with the Box of Good Will. I was was in my garage this morning when I remembered that I had a carry case with stuff I had gotten from the Boneyard at ReaperCons past. I was giving the contents a scan to see if there was stuff I might put into the BoGW when I saw a mini I knew wasn't from the Boneyard but escaped identification in the moment. I looked at the bottom for the manufacturer, but it was too small, but there was a part number (in my writing) on the baggie it was in. I grabbed my magnifier and went to the computer to look it up in my mini spread sheet, suspecting it was what it turned out to be. It was one of my Thunderbolt Mountain elves that have been misplaced for some time. I had no idea they were with my bitz. Now all I have to do is get them organized. Now just to figure out were I put the majority of my Dark Sword minis. Thanks to the BoGW for helping me find my Tom Meier elves.

We use pistol cases that Grump gets cheap at Walmart. They hold a LOT of figures. Put them in in pairs, base to base, sitting in the little egg cup so that the peaks hold the models in place.

Hubby and I finally watched season two of stranger things. All of it. Yesterday. With only slight pauses. I don't think I'm made for binge watching.

I painted some blue on the Oathworn Dwarf Princess. This is pure Phthalocyanine Blue mixed with a lot of Titanium White (I've mentioned the phthalos are really strong colors; when mixing them I prefer to start with whatever other color I am mixing with and add a very small amount at a time). I added some metallic colors. These are just Golden's Iridescent Silver and Iridescent Gold, thinned down just enough to be soft on the brush - I don't know if I'm being too clear here - then mostly wiped off the brush and lightly laid on the high points of the prepared surfaces. It's nothing so thin as a wash; this is so that it won't run into the crannies and will stay where I put it. It's not very thickly painted and I have deliberately not put it over every bit of the black (or red) underpainting. Tho Oathsworn Dwarf Adventurer: Hasslefree's HFD014: Hatherly Reaper's 14143: Kara Foehunter, Dwarf Hero: The Oathsworn Dwarf Princess:

So @Jasonator your suggestion for the turkey was bang on--everyone loved it and it was just citrusy enough. I lined the roasting pan with sliced oranges and stuffed with some diced oranges, thyme, garlic. Rubbed a little olive oil on it, seasoned with salt and pepper, poured a quarter cup of brandy in as well. Someone else brought colcannon, there was Irish soda bread, Guinness and mead. Best part was the party didn't all die! Which is pretty good considering we were all really injured and dealing with a black dragon. (The dragon flew away, we got the treasure it was locked up with anyway.)

It has been the general experience of most of us that no matter how much you take out, the next person will immediately refill it and then some... We all take out less than we probably should so as not to be greedy, and then put in more than we took because we want to be generous. Well, clearly you haven't taken enough out...

Yes. The white area is larger because the blue circle is smaller, making it appear as if the eyes are different. I made the smaller iris larger and decreased the white space, thus making it look less rotated. I didn't touch the other eye and no matter how unforgiving the camera is, any difference is now nearly impossible to see in hand. At any rate, I have some cleaning up to do around the eyes.

And here's my Baran Blacktree, fresh from his pack. The busted tab came that way, but it's okay because I'm not sure it would have fit in anyway, this guy has a wide stance! I'm looking forward to this, he's a cool piece and has some challenging features to test my ingenuity.

In January, we shipped out thousands of our first Dungeon Dweller mini, Sir Rictus the undying. Now, you can use Sir Rictus in an old-school dungeon crawl, written by our very own Reaper Hall of Fame inductee Joseph Wolf! The best part? It's FREE! That's right! Download it right now for free at www.reapermini.com/dungeondwellers Thanks to our friends at Troll Lord Games for the use of their fantastic Castles & Crusades RPG rules!

I was using this to try a different skin color which I like and I believe I was going to do a bit more detailed TMM but got side tracked. After several months of no work on him, I decided to get him "done" to tabletop level. Here are some shaky iPad photos. C&C welcome.

Hi, friends! In continuing with our plan to catch up with painting the Dungeon Dwellers as a joint WIP together as they come out, can I interest you in some Baran Blacktree? Buglips and I will be painting him in our usual fashion, but if you haven't already, make sure that you check out Rhonda Bender's awesome PDF painting guide for him here: Dungeon Dwellers Y'all probably know by now how these go, but if not, check out our Thanis the Bonecaller thread where it all began and that'll give you links to all of the other joint WIP threads we've done.

Hello everone, I'm from the Netherlands and new to Reaper miniatures and the forum. I just finnished my first dark haven miniature; Thora the gnome bard by Sandra Garrity. 02721 She will be used as my girlfriends character in a prolonged pathfinder campaign. Overall I'm really happy with the result and I wanted to share :)

Overall pretty happy with how he turned out. Would love any feedback for improvement...

Hey everyone, I ordered this one from BlackChapel miniatures in Spain. It was a nice miniature to paint with many great little details. I use this one for my own pathfinder character.

My weekend has another seven days to it Been looking forward to this week off for a while now!

Thank You !!! There is nothing like having a meal that just "fits in with its needs". Thank you so much for trying my madness. Years ago I worked in a Bakery/Restaurant. Always remembered the simpler you made somethingl the better it was .. Especially when it came to Poultry !!!

I laid in some pure Golden Iridescent Gold on her. I rather lost the fine detail in her hair, I'm afraid. I washed some pure Carbon Black over her staff and accessories (I don't think I mentioned earlier. She comes also with a sword and a wand to be glued on at her belt, but I left them off to keep this figure simple, quick, and easy to handle.). I thinly laid some Titanium White over her phials. I am going to paint them in a technique I use for jewels. It uses pure white at the bottom shading to dark at the top, then glazed over with a transparent jewel tone color (very like the velvet painting method, actually), then highlighted with pure Titanium White to show reflections. This is the finished look (I also brushed a bit of gold over her tassels and painted some simple brown mixes on her bags).

I'm seeing a mental image of a cardboard box full of minis dripping a syrup that is the same color as pancake syrup but thinner out of every corner. GEM You can buy all sorts of foam off of evilbay or do a web search for foam retailers. Also, check with your friendly neighborhood upholster shops. GEM Who has seconds of the same foam used in recording studios lining the walls of his office/cave.

Cannot express how pleased and proud I am to have the opportunity to share content in support of Reaper Dungeon Dwellers with the Reaper Community. Over the years I've been writing and running the official ReaperCon events and the Reaper fans are absolutely unmatched in their love of Reaper and the hobby. Their enthusiasm is infectious and they're just cool to eat BBQ with. It's an honor and privilege to share the Reaper Dungeon Dwellers setting with ya'll. We've got big plans and great things coming down the pike: cool characters, neat locations, encounters and adventures, and even a new beast or two. Have at it and tell us what you thing! >>ReaperWolf p.s. I'm especially keen to read what players and gamemasters have to write about Sir Rictus. <maniacal cackle!>

It ended up costing me just under $13 before shipping, which isn't bad... My max bid was $20. Aesthetically, or mechanically? What doesn't make sense - their spellcasting? Invocations? Effective, economical, and tasty... Viable as a long-term solution...not so much.

I spent a very short session today to work on the eyes. Before I worry about details like white dots though, I want to make sure I haven't made her cross-eyed or something. The eyes appear to be looking is slightly different directions, but I believe that is due to one iris being slightly smaller than the other. Anime says make the slightly smaller iris larger. I'm getting hungry though, so any more painting will have to wait until after food.

If you can find a good source for foam, get some of those corrugated cardboard boxes they sell for trading card games. A 5,000 card box has a vast amount of room in it once you pull out the inserts and put some flan in it, and it won't be more than a few dollars. Foam, but I'm leaving that autocorrect in, it's funny.

The Skorchas are a smallish buggy like vehicle that doesn't have a model, so I cut down a couple trukks and made my own. The Battlewagon is pretty much stock kit, except I am adding a base (which isn't done yet). Skorchas:

I finished up the Obsidian Crypt from Bones 3's Graveyard expansion. Used a fair amount of spray paint on this one, as I found that it didn't interact as badly with the harder Bonesium than it does with the regular stuff. I also used a bit of blue painter's tape to keep various areas protected, and wound up making use of a marbling spray to get the effect I wanted, and I'm pretty happy with it. It worked best on the floor rather than the walls, but I'm satisfied with it overall. I haven't glued any of the walls together, because it makes it easier to use as terrain or display. I also mounted some magnets in the floor, and glued some nails into the open areas in the walls so that the whole thing stays together better. It was my first real attempt at using magnets in miniatures, and I'm pretty excited about it.

Hi Everyone, I've complete my first two repaints. They serve as a progress marker, and to replace the originals which I sold. I feel like I'm finally getting some good looking skin tones, that I'm happy with, unfortunately the matte varnish seems to kill some of the shading. These pics were taken before the varnish was applied. I painted both of them with color schemes to match the originals. Would doing a gloss varnish, then a matte coat help preserve some of the shading? Also my photography has gotten better, although it still could use some improvement. And I'm slowly working on doing better on the basing. The originals had no basing. I'm think I'm going to buy a leaf punch and some cork. Is paper or real leaves recommended for making the miniature leaves? Thanks all, hope you enjoy the pics.

Weekend is too short! I can already see Monday peeking around the corner. *** Throws a brick at said corner, Go Away!***

Another source of foam is upholstery foam from places like JoAnnes FAbric and the like. Any fabric store should have some. Available in multiple thicknesses and can be cut with a hot cutter or knife.

My tank case for my World Eaters army is a gun case. Works great. Cost me... $20 at Wal-Mart. Irish Soda Bread is in the oven, Guinness Beef Stew in the pressure cooker... Guinness in my hand.

There's two hours left on an auction for one of the Ral Partha 11-0XX Adventurers figures I still don't have... It has three bids on it and a price of $2.00 at the moment. I plan on owning this thing. I am willing to go big on this one. If I'm not the owner at the end of the auction, whoever takes it from me is going to be weeping at the price they paid for it. Weeping.

Moving gradually along with the orcish fellows...