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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    C r a z y G r e m l i n s !
  2. 1 point
    Dan's Build Journal #3 Sewers - Abandoned Smugglers Tunnel Ged took a deep breath to calm his nerves and then instantly regretted it, as the stench rising up from the old sewer entrance made him retch involuntarily. Reaching into his side pouch the young rogue pulled out a small vial of purple oil, uncorked it and then dabbed a copious amount in the space between his nose and upper lip. Lavender Oil, thats what the old drunkard had recommended, though truth be told the solution only made the stench slightly more bearable. The rogue carefully descended an old and very rotten wooden ladder into the underground sewer complex, the air was still and heavy and the only noises, the scuttling of nearby rats and the occasional sound of dripping water. Ged ignited his torch and pulled out a crumpled old map. It was common knowledge that in his youth the old drunkard had served as a smuggler for the local thieves guild, and after several weeks of plying the man with drink and trying to befriend the old retch he had finally revealed his secret. Decades earlier, the old man and his crew had used the sewer tunnels to smuggle contraband and stolen goods in and out of the city, that was until they had allegedly disturbed some ancient horror sleeping beneath the water and were forced to flee, abandoning their camp and their treasures. Ged couldn't help but smile to himself, he knew the old smuggler to be an honest man, and there was no doubt in his mind that the smugglers cache would be exactly where he had been told, however Ged didn't believe in monsters, the old smuggler was a notorious drunkard and he probably got spooked by his own shadow after a few too many ales. Having now gained his bearings the rogue carefully refolded the old map, and set off towards his prize confident that this was going to be an easy and profitable payday. Navigating the old tunnels proved an arduous task, the floor was slick with slime and it would have been easy to get lost within the complex labyrinth, but the smugglers map proved true and after about 30 minutes Ged arrived at the tunnel that had been marked on his map. The tunnel was long and Ged's torch did little to penetrate the darkness more than a few feet in front of him, unperturbed the rogue slowly started down the eerily quiet passageway, until.... SPLASH! Startled the young rogue spun about, hand reaching instinctively for his dagger and eyes straining to see in the darkness. Ged momentarily caught sight of several circular ripples radiating outward from the centre of the sewage canal, before the disturbed water settled back down to its prior stillness. Ged, crouched low and and holding his breath in order to better hear his surroundings continued to scan the surface of the water. After several moments of silence, he sheathed his dagger and stood up straight, it was probably just a rat he thought to himself. The next few minutes passed without incident until young Ged neared the end of the tunnel and finally came upon his prize. Stacked high were dusty old chests and coffers, caked in a decades accumulation of spiderwebs but still full of valuables, there were piles of gold and jewels, paintings, rare books and other works of art. Most of the books and artworks were ruined, rotten from years sitting in a damp environment, but the gold, this would set up a man for life. Trembling from excitement, Ged unfastened his backpack and eagerly began filling it with anything that looked valuable. So engrossed in the task at hand, Ged didn't hear the disturbance in the water, he was blissfully unaware of his encroaching doom until he felt it tighten around his leg. Looking down in surprise the young rogue had no time to time react before the long green tentacle yanked him violently into the water and complete darkness, terrified the young man tried to to scream but only succeeded in flooding his lungs with the rank sewage water, his desperate thrashing lasted but a few moments and then complete silence, the only evidence of the rogues passing, his torch slowly burning out next to the smugglers cache. Completed Project Pictures: My Other Build Journals: First off the elephant in the room. I appreciate I have literally just started 'Build Journal #2 - Ancient Ruins' which has only had one post so far, unfortunately that's had to go on temporary hold. My last piece of foamboard isn't quite big enough to support the planned build and I do not have anything else strong enough to hold it and so I've had to order some. Rather than waste my last weekend off work, I figured I'd start work on one of my smaller quicker builds which should keep me occupied until the foamboard arrives. This ones going to be a photo backdrop of a dark, dirty, fantasy sewer system. Preparing the Masonry For this build I am going to be using 'Hirst Arts Mold #343 - Underground Brick' and casting the blocks from Dental Stone which is a lot more durable than plaster. Luckily I had prepared a large batch of these blocks at the same time I was making blocks for my Ancient Ruins build and so I was ready to go straight away. The first job was creating a back wall for the project, which took around an hour to both experiment and dry-fit something I was happy with and then glue it all together. At present the wall has some pretty obvious and unsightly 'seam lines' where you can tell it is just a bunch of blocks glued together, that will be fixed later. Laying the Foundation For the foundation I used a sheet of 6mm foamcore, which I then cut to the length of the wall. I then measured and cut a block of polystyrene using a hotwire tool which will serve as the walkway above the sewage water. I glued a second piece of foamcore (this was the offcut from the first piece I had cut to size) and glued that to the back, this is to give the wall a bit more support once glued to the base. I quickly tested the fit (but didn't yet glue the wall to the base) Preparing the Walkway The walkway was made out of Sculpy, a modelling clay that needs baking to harden. I used a Greenstuff World texture roller to imprint a stone brick floor pattern into the clay, test fitted it to the polystyrene and then cut it to the right size. The flooring was then baked and glued to the polystyrene once cooled (This shrunk slightly in the oven, if you look at the next picture the wall slightly overhands the path now). I added a brick wall against the the polystyrene where the water will eventually flow, but the height was just off, to fix this I glued some old foam bricks I had laying around to the edge. These are a lot bigger than the bricks of the wall and floor, however as edging pieces they seem to work well, I textured these with a scumpled up ball of tinfoil. Finally I attempted to fill the gaps and seamlines where the blocks meet with some home made spackle. I rubbed dry powdered plaster into all the gaps and then used a soft haired makeup brush to gently dust away the excess which had gathered and filled in the detail of the brick work, once cleaned up I spritzed the entire thing with water to soak into the cracks and dried plaster. I may need to do this a second time, but its already looking a lot better. Creating the Waterway. To finish up the waterway, I built another wall section and placed it a few inches out from the first, I then cut away the excess foamboard to keep the build neat and compact. As the clay floor I'd made ended up a little uneven in places, the back wall no longer sat flat and there were gaps as a result, especially under the final buttress (not that obvious at the angle I photographed it above, but it was quite a large gap). I ended up filing all these gaps with some sculptamold, I also made some small debris piles around a few of the buttresses. To finish off the whole model was primed white ready for painting.
  3. 1 point
    Hello to all you bovine aficionados! So a while back ago I did a normal minotaur, Greek-type mythological beast with an axe on two legs. This one is a little different, it's a Shadowrun Minotaur which has a bull's body and a "primate" face. I think Jim Johnson sculpted it back in the nineties, as usual forgot to check for a date on the bottom. Pretty straight forwards colors, and it's actually kind of a big and heavy model. Put him on an oval base because there was no way he was going to fit on a normal size circle one: Anyhoos, hope you guys all enjoy him!
  4. 1 point
    Not sure what the name and number of this one is, but fairly sure it is a Ral Partha Shadowrun figure. In lead, no less. I pulled her out of a pile of random stuff over a year ago and didn't get very far. Decided I would finish her up in bright colors. Not sure what the staff is supposed to be, metallic green seemed appropriate. With mages you never know.
  5. 1 point
    Naturally, the giants of the Lost Valley are Stone Giants, seeing as the Lost Valley is in the Stone Age. FeeFie, Fo and Fum the three Stone Giants. I rebased them on 60mm bases. click to see more pics
  6. 1 point
    As the day comes to a screeching halt, I have a bunch of Goblins in the work...a rare instance of actually posting W.I.P. minis in the W.i.P. section. The (Game Zone) Moon Givers: Standard Bearer & Beast of Burden: ANDthe converted L.A.M. Goblin: Have a good night!
  7. 1 point
    Yeah, it generally does - particularly sealing the wood. When I use superglue on bare wood, I always put down a layer or two on the wood first to let it soak in and cure so when I glue the pieces together it has a better surface to grab onto.
  8. 1 point
    Better watch out, wild and crazy party animal here! (I got home from work, sat down and promptly zonked out for an unintended nap.) Ah...ooh...oof...>wince< They were very careful to warn us about that and give us some good advice about how to clean up after we got pepper sprayed in training. ...and that is why I do not shave. The beard may come and go, or become a goatee, but the mustache NEVER goes.
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    Wait... So now it's running around loose somewhere?
  11. 1 point
    Of course W.O.O.F. has ruin things.
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    On the flipside, at least half of your prints are already assembled...
  14. 1 point
    We’ve got a shhhh ituation here folks! Sephy took off her diaper. And pooped on the floor. And the water is off, because they’re replacing a valve. Well, shhhhhhhh-oot.
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    neither of those are good things. But then other people's discomfort is not funny to me, and actual pain even less so.
  17. 1 point
    @Cranky Dog so what your saying is that using mentholated rub in an athletic protector is an evil prank but using mace is a whole new level of cruel?
  18. 1 point
    So I've been in the mood to make some homemade hot sauce. I have hot peppers (jalapeno, habanero, yellow wax) who have been fermenting in the mason jar for the past few days. Though I got annoyed at how the bubbles were making the peppers float, so I tried to add some weights over them. The weight slipped and sank deeper as I manipulated it. It all ended with both of my hands covered in very spicy brine. So I washed my hands. Not much later, I went to the bathroom for a quick piss. And what follows can only be described as a series of unfortunate events as handling the "equipment" and sudden unwelcome burst of heat reminded me again how the handling and washing of capsaicin rich body parts is "challenging". In many ways, it's like trying to get rid of glitter. Can't wait to put those peppers in the blender though.
  19. 1 point
    I think there are just two laying on top of each other. As far as I know every officer has such a vest and a jacket as well.
  20. 1 point
    Separation necessary ^ in order to "Like" stomp with appropriate little faces.
  21. 1 point
    I tested superglue, white glue, and 5-minute epoxy in my original Bones tests. The specific products I used and the tests are listed in the link below. Superglue did the best overall. The one it was weakest at was untreated wood. It worked fine on MDF. I don't know if sealing the wood or painting it some would help create a stronger bond, that might be worth testing. I used HobbyTown store brand superglue, which I think is a rebranded version of a pretty common brand. I have since tried Loctite ultragel, and I'm a believer. I haven't tested it on wood, but it was so much easier to work with for assembling a big pile of Bones that I worked through recently. No chemicals that I tested on Bones affected the material significantly. I'm not saying that there aren't chemicals that could, just that I didn't notice anything like that with putties or glues. Even the issues that people have with primers, I don't think those affect the Bones, I think it's the primer coat just never curing correctly. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48668-bones-preparation-glues-putties-mould-lines-etc/
  22. 1 point
    Miniature arrived today. Humidity is to high. My spray on primer did not stick. Cleaning mini and using brush on primer.
  23. 1 point
    Artisan Guild Oni Beauty, Tsuki. 3D printed on my Elegoo Mars Part of my project: NIPPON, Land of the Rising Moon, WIP: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79416-nippon-land-of-the-rising-moon-by-glitterwolf/page/14/#comments Tried a little freehand on the fan.
  24. 1 point
    Build plate should be clean but if you used IPA on the FEP also, better wipe that off a bit before printing. You want the model to stick to the build plate not to the FEP. Check your supports, my first big fail was a medium sized mini ( giant snake let's say troll sized) I supported it with many light supports and it came off I only had a flat resin layer. It needed medium supports at the least. Presupported? Check for islands anyway! Not all are perfect. Watch videos on the subject from 3Dprintingpro on youtube, I learned a lot in a short time from those. *** Emerges from under a pile of resin minis*** I have no idea what you're talking about! @TheAuldGrump I cure my minis under a cheap naildryer or in the sun. I find these curing stations overpriced for what they do. Also..clean the print ( I use Methylated alcohol others use IPA or Mean Green) then dunk it in a jar filled with really warm water, let soak a few minutes and the supports are easier to remove. If you cure the print with the supports they will be hard and more trouble to get off, probably more risk of damaging the print. WEAR NITRIL GLOVES!!!! And a mask when you're working over the VAT with resin in it.
  25. 1 point
    Still finishing off the minis I need for the Island of Empty Eyes (#4 of the Pathfinder Skull and Shackles adventure path) and now that I've painted all of the cyclops I think I can manage it's time to get some other beasties done. The Bones IV Dire Crab will pass as a Shark Eating Crab (along with my metal Scuttlebones). I was tempted to try the blue swimmer pattern that another has done so well, however given the stocky build of the crab I settled for an Australian mud crab colouration. Nothing too complex here, however I'm particularly happy with the patchy appearance that the sculpt and the hit and miss coverage of the Militarum Green contrast paint gives it.
  26. 1 point
    Oops! Did I press buy when watching this STL file on MMF?
  27. 1 point
    Here is my Dragoth. This is the original metal figure on his throne. I looked at the etching on the base, this guy has been in my collection waiting for paint since '96, 24 years! This is him. I really like how I was able to get the rocks of the throne to all be different colours, or different enough to make them all look a little different at least (learned that from Black Magic Craft YouTube channel). What could have worked better was more contrast overall, I'm really struggling with highlighting. He was also looking way too shiny at one point so I used Nuln Oil and Seraphim Sepia on the metals to make them look a little older. He is an intelligent undead who can take care of his equipment, but he's still undead lol. Another thing I liked was painting his breastplate bright silver and then putting a blue glaze on it to tint it blue while retaining all the shine of the silver! Who needs coloured metallics? Anyway I hope you like him after he waited 24 years for paint, all C&C welcome! P.S. The last pic shows some nice highlighting I did on his cape that nobody will ever see because it's in the little gap between his back and the throne
  28. 1 point
    Hello Reaperholics! So I've had this one finished for a few days now, but I usually photograph one sunny days and the last few days have been kind of cloudy. I actually really enjoy the figure, once you get paint on her, you bring out more detail. She's from Ral Partha's Shadowrun range. Her original set came with a dryad and another large elf subtype that I'm also working on. I have the dryad done, but I wasn't happy with her eyes so I'm going to try one more time to fix the eyes before I take final pictures. Anyhoos, hope you all enjoy! For whatever reason, I seem to always see magic flame as green, so this mini was no exception!
  29. 1 point
    I'm currently at 50 trying to work out if I can go up to 100 for Galahad then add 50 for sir Kay or the Green Knight in the pledge manager. I liked sir Kay's moustache (very Sturm Brightblade, Knight of Huma) but the way that he's been painted without one so convincingly gives me concern that the moustache detail might not be very refined.
  30. 1 point
    Always go with the Corgi! Also I printed a thing! (6 sided die for scale )
  31. 1 point
    He fit Paranoia like a hand in a glove. He could bring a smile to my face, and those smiles are something I am going to miss. Rest in peace, Mr. Holloway. The Auld Grump
  32. 1 point
    I recently made my first purchase from Stonehaven Miniatures. I imagine this to be an adventuring party of some sort: a halfling paladin and her bodyguard of halfling soldiers, a dwarf brawler, and a human thief. I specifically chose five models so I could paint each one with a different skin color; I have five main fleshtone combinations that I use for human and human-like races, and I wanted to see them all together in one group. The paladin is my favorite because I love the idea of an armored dress.
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    I don't mind telling you guys, some days it felt like I would never complete the core set. In part, no doubt, to my haphazard manner of deciding what to paint...When I first started playing, the Imperial player had his favored units and he seldom deviated from them. He kept winning, so it's not like he really needed to... Again, I don't have my stuff together enough to do a little story and diorama. It's time to make some calculations for the jump to hyperspace! Jynn Odan and Fenn Signis. Jynn is a smuggler of no small repute who specializes in not standing still. Fenn is a veteran of many battles who specializes in "boom!" Jynn is pretty much straight off the character card. I went with a grey "urban" outfit for Fenn instead of the classic brown. Gideon Argus and Mak Esh'karay. Gideon is a Rebel Officer and tactical genius. Mak is a Bothan sharpshooter. Gaarkhan and Chewbacca (what a wookiee!). Gaarkhan specializes (in my limited experience) in getting trashed before the halfway point of the game. He's supposed to specialize in beating things to an icky pulp. I could have done a little better with Chewie, hopefully he won't pull my arms out of the sockets because I need them to paint! I should have base coated his fur a little differently instead of just drybrushing up from the base black coat. When I was looking at some of the animated shorts on Disney+, I noticed that his fur had a light/dark pattern that I tried to replicate instead of just hitting it with "whatever." From the animated short, Chewie has what I call a hat, bolero, and shorts where the fur is darker leaving the sides of his face, the forearms and lower legs lighter. Dialla Pasilla. This is an old picture (cropped to cut out Davith Elso from The Bespin Gambit). She's one of my favorite heroes to play. Han Solo and Luke Skywalker. I'm actually pretty happy with Solo. I even got a half-way decent blood stripe even though you can't see it in this picture. I do wish they had used Luke's costume from the end of ANH (yellow jacket, brown pants, black shirt) as that would have been more fun to paint than white, off-white, slightly-darker off-white, and light khaki. Rebel Saboteurs. I went with a more uniform look to these two Duros. It just seemed right that they should be Rebel regulars. I had forgotten that they had visors when I was planning colors and was disappointed when I realized I wouldn't be painting the glowing red eyes that Duros are known for. Rebel Troopers. Not much to say about them, really. They hang out with Gideon a lot. Nexu. Originally brought to us in Attack of the Clones, Nexu are ferocious feline-like creatures. The black variety is supposed to be more rare, and even more vicious. I was originally planning on altering their coloration to be more like the cats Mrs. Strawhat brought into the relationship (the black is our 20+ year old tortie, the white a Siamese mix), but I think I will do that with the Lothcats in Tyrants of Lothal. Which means I should tiger-stripe these Nexu when I feel like it. The pictures were taken before I ringed the bases in green. Trandoshan Hunters. It really stinks being the Rebel player on the receiving end of these guys. When I first started painting all these, I planned on painting the figures to match the colors on the ID tokens (blue, red, purple, black). IG-88! This blasted assassin droid really knows how to bring pain. The paint is pretty simple, though: metallics, red for eye sensors, and a couple yellow wires. Stormtroopers! Stormtroopers! More Stormtroopers! I've been asked a couple different times how I get my troopers so white. I start with Rainy Grey, follow it with Ghost White, and finish with Pure White. It's also why I'm not looking forward to the last eight (the last 25% for the game). Imperial Officers. Some people use the fleet grey scheme, but I went with Stormtrooper officer black for the regular officers. The white tunic is the elite...it just made sense for the elite to be part of the Imperial Security Bureau. You can spot the occasional ISB representative in the Death Star (I) and high ranking ISB officers in the conference room with Vader and Tarkin. E-Web Engineers. Scout Troopers are manning the cannons. The Scout Trooper armor actually is slightly a mix of hard armor and some soft-armor pieces. I varied the recipe a little, using Leather or Linen White (I don't remember which), for the soft armor to give a little different look. It doesn't really show in the pictures, though. Imperial Probe Droids. I had them done to a standard I was happy with, and then decided to add a wash. Which I then had to go back and fix. If you look carefully, you might notice that the elite IPD has a red reflection in one of the lenses, the blue IPD has a blue reflection, and the white marked droid has a grey/white reflection. The original intent was to use the reflections to ID them, but that's just too hard to see (and darn near impossible if you have some beer to "help" you game). Royal Guard. I think these guys are some of my favorite work from all that I've done, and they're also some of the first! Too bad we never really got to see them in action in Return of the Jedi. I have seen part of a deleted scene, though. The ID dots (visible just in front of the guards) have been painted over. They were ready to throw down against Vader.... Darth Vader! Not much to say here, either. Black, Nightmare Black, Shadowed Stone/Stormy Grey, more black... The Royal Guard Champion was done mostly the same way as the RGs, with a slightly altered scheme from the art. I guess the armor would normally be black, but went with brown to match the gloves and because brown is more in line with the red (in my opinion). His base has since been fixed and is now ringed in black. Which brings us to: The regular AT-ST and General Weiss. The general's AT-ST is an experimental model and a much lighter shade than the standard. Now that they're done, they'll probably never hit the table. But they're done! And that brings us to a close on what we usually use. There are still two sets to go: Twin Shadows (which is partially complete (25-30%) and Tyrants of Lothal. I will now be taking a brief, and well-earned, break from Star Wars.
  35. 1 point
    I had it sitting on my bench for more than a year. Brought it on sale and it was nice working with such a heavy model, thought it did fall apart a couple times (Since I am not using it for gaming, I did not pin it). The fourth picture seems to have the closest red to how it looks in real life. The Robot Together with Friends Feedback and Critiques are welcome and appreciated.
  36. 1 point
    Or Yvain, the Knight of the Lion? They could do something crazy and have him riding his boon companion instead of having it be by his side.
  37. 1 point
    After the first few (reasonably priced) pledge levels one can't help the feeling they just got greedy. Three thousand euro pledge level anyone? Fifteen hundred? Nine hundred? Hmm..... Now to find out which figures are Standard and which are Exclusive. Did I see a Sir Bercilak (The Green Knight) sculpt briefly during the campaign video? I did. I'm not sure I like this version very much. No axe. No terrifying face. There's not a lot of clarity as to which figures are available under the Squire pledge as opposed to the Adventurer pledge level. I'm in for a single Standard figure for now because there's a pledge manager promised. That being said their sir Bercilak sculpt, while not the best way I'd like to imagine sir Bercilak, would easily fit into some kind of barbarian army on the tabletop as some kind of giant. It would appear that one of the stretch goals is an alternate weapon for the Green Knight so hopefully that's his trusty axe.
  38. 1 point
    Jim Holloway was EVERYWHERE in gaming products in the eighties. The original Pacesetter "Chill" game and the original "Paranoia" used his artwork, I believe, to the exclusion of all other artists, at least in the main basic sets. And I remember his work in the FASA Doctor Who supplement, "The Daleks." The guy was a part of it all. I wish his family the very best.
  39. 1 point
    Finishing the floor and weathering the brickwork With the basecoat on the floor dry I moved on to drybrushing, working in some stone colours and gradually getting lighter. I then mixed up a somewhat diluted sepia ink wash to add some contrast and definition to the stones. Once that had dried I painted the debris piles around the buttresses in an earthtone. At a later stage I plan to go over these piles with some powdered pigments to give them a more natural look, but cannot do that until I have finished applying all the washes. With the floor almost complete I mixed up another Sepia Ink wash, this time a lot more concentrated and started coating all the brick work. I used a tissue to blot away the wash in a few selective areas, creating subtle gradients in the colour of the wall. The paint that pooled at the base of the wall was wicked up with a tissue, however some was left and feathered to blend into stone of the floor, giving the illusion of a build up of grime. I used a drying retarder in the ink wash, and so I'll need to wait until everything is dry before I can add the final weathering to the brickwork, but I think it is already starting to look quite convincing as is. Much like my previous project, I have now run into a little setback. As I had not intended to start this project so soon (I had a whole ancient ruin to build first), I do not have all the greeble and decor to hand to bring the project to life. I have a few items on order that should arrive next week sometime, so I will probably resume work on this then. On the bright side, my foamboard arrived today, so I can resume work on the ruins project, I'll probably end up bouncing between the two projects now, it will allow me to be a little more time efficient as I wait for things to dry.
  40. 1 point
    Initial Paintwork I started by painting the brickwork with a Red Oxide artists acrylic paint, I then drybrushed over some shades of orange in a random sporadic patches to give some variation in the brick, I then did the same with light grey to accentuate some of the brickwork (For some reason my camera has over-emphasised the grey, it looks a lot more subtle in person. I really need to learn to take accurate pictures). For the floor I mixed up an earthy brown colour to serve as the base colour. Once dried this will also be drybrushed. That is all I have time for this morning. Once I have finished with the drybrushing the next step is going to be to apply a dark grimy wash over everything to give it a rank dirty underground feel.
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    Because of all the orcs, kobolds, gnolls and bugbears from the Bones kickstarters, I ended up with several duplicates of many poses. This topic is right in line with how I dealt with them. First, my orcs from the Orcpocalypse set. I really didn't need that many orcs, so I picked a few and did some weapon and shield swaps with some of the gnolls and bugbears, Or I added little details so I could tell them apart (a dagger in or out of a sheath, a shoulder pauldron, a different arrow quiver, etc.). This gave me a good variety of orcs with no actual duplicate poses. In turn, the bugbears got the leftover bits from the orcs and gnolls. I also had all of those first generation Bones kobolds (I even have the metals for these!). The kobold champion had a badly tweaked mace (no amount of heating or reforming was working, and it always went back to its deformed shape). So I replaced it with the "broken sword" from the Bones zombie ogre (and hey, for a smaller race, a broken sword from a larger creature would be a decent greatsword, right?). So I did that. I also swapped out some of the swords and spear bits. Most of these modifications required only nippers and a hobby knife. The shields and shoulder pauldron took some dremel work with a conical and ball bit. The most complicated work was the morning star from the gnoll that I gave to one of the orcs. I ended up using the gnoll's whole hand - including its hand and forearm armor, while keeping the orc's wrist straps intact. This gave a much more solid connection than just cutting off and pinning the weapon.
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    I am curious about it, but the goblin I just finished from Big Child Creatives was a pretty poor cast. Resin bubble+blob on the nose, big crack in the ankle, more mold slip than expected for cost, and packaged such that an ear broke off. Other Vancouver painters got good casts though. I suspect they're probably Usually Good, but need to do better quality assurance checks.
  45. 1 point
    I've got one of their busts. Really beautifully produced. No air bubbles. The pieces went together perfectly. I'm definitely interested to see where they go with a celtic Arthurian concept.
  46. 1 point
    Here is the shelf of progress. It is overlooked by the pile of doom but provides a glimmer of light against the darkness. I don't want to fixate on a number of minis per month but have enjoyed having a spell of working on teams and units with similar colour schemes, and focusing on minis that I can use in games.
  47. 1 point
    I just had an idea for this. I think I'm going to remove the shark and hang a dead adventurer from it instead. I figure if surface folk can pull stuff out of the ocean to drag it on land to butcher, then why wouldn't all the underwater people pull stuff off the land to drag underwater and butcher?
  48. 1 point
    The cracks between the stone were not dark enoght to my taste. I wanted to add more shading, so I applied a layer of Citadel Agrax Earthshade all over the stones. Then, I applied a 9086, Stone Grey drybrush and re-highlighted the darker and bluish stones. Finally, I applied a 9293 Alien Flesh drybrush on all the stones and a light 9031 Tanned Leather on some spots. I think it looks nice like that, so I will move forward and paint the wooden parts.
  49. 1 point
    Hi all, I was determined to speed paint a Reaper miniature so I prepped and painted this guy in a one night marathon session. I restricted myself to a limited classic color palate to make things easier. I think it will make a fine addition to my collection of unusual monsters. It seems like the miniature itself might be a little controversial - it was discontinued under mysterious circumstances.
  50. 0 points
    Well, that sucks... Monument Hobbies and Creature Caster are parting ways... Which means the Monument Hobbies brushes I just got are going to be significantly more to replace, or add to the set. Ouch.
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