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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/08/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I just got this figure last week, but it jumped the Que. I spent a few days doing prep-work and watching a video on painting fur to refresh my technique. Then looking at elephant photos and mammoth drawings. basecoat to finish was about 3 hours work. I went with Burnt umber as the base color. I do love burnt umber. - with some half steps and all dry brushing. Brownliner Burnt Umber Olive skin shadow leather brown Ivory tusk The pink tongue just makes him look Happy to me, so now he has a name. and meets all three of my art goals. My Favorite project this month.
  2. 3 points
    The troll bridge from the KS-5 was an instant need. on the otherhand I didn't really want to wait 18 months, when I have some nice pink foam from a former project. So I set to work building my own, drawing on crafting videos and the original bridge here for inspiration and instruction. since in person games are out and I have never taken to wargaming, It will mostly be used by my Mini-spawn in her dragon adventures. (She set up a Zoom school for Dragon, cat & dog minis this week, mostly perched on the DDS2 ruined tower terrain. )
  3. 2 points
    I never did share final pics of my work... Let's fix that!
  4. 1 point
    Hello forum family, just wanna share with you my new set-up to make (good) photos at minis. It is really really simple: A dark backdrop, a screen to block the light on the back of the background, white paper to reflect the ceiling light. No lamps at all just the daylight and the ceiling light. 100 ISO, -0,67 exposure. I think the quality has improved (sometime dramatically) from my previous pictures:
  5. 1 point
    Goal The purpose of this thread is to gather in one place all the visual answers to the oft recurring question, “How big is Reaper miniature __ __ __ __ __ ?” That question comes up about once a week; but always about different models. This thread is meant to serve as a place for those foolish kind souls who decide to answer in detail with a photograph to post their work. Guidelines for such photographs “...Posed in front of an inch or centimeter grid, and / or with a ruler laid out in front of, above, or behind them, and / or next to other Miniatures for comparison...” Comparison pics are the most useful because the numerical height of a model doesn't always tell you how bulky it is, or how exaggerated the features might be. Common objects like paint dropper bottles, figure bases, and specific Miniatures like Sir Forscale (76543) can acquaint the viewer with size of a new Mini, especially while standing on a grid. The best comparison shots are like police line-ups: several miniatures side-by-side in front of an easily-read scale. @Pingo @redambrosia and @lowlylowlycook contributed most of the wording in the preceding paragraph (which I edited a bit). Links to previous efforts (... this space reserved for links to other posts with photos that may be scattered around the forums ...)
  6. 1 point
    I recently made my own little turntable for shooting 360-degree pictures of minis to turn into animated gifs. Some forum members were interested in hearing how I did it, so here it is in detail. It was pretty straightforward, so hopefully by following these instructions you will be able to make pictures like this: Things I used An analog clock A screwdriver, to take apart the clock A 0.7mm mechanical pencil with a removable tip A round plastic lid to act as the stage Some glue A digital camera The manual for said camera, you will probably need it A tripod Deep-seated obsessive-compulsive tendencies Turntable construction First, acquire an analog clock. In this case, a clock that was left in the laundry room of our apartment building, in a place where people usually leave things they don't need any more. Then ponder how we see fewer public clocks in the age of smartphones. Once you're done pondering, take the clock apart to get the mechanism that drives the hands. The one I have contains three circles to drive the hands of the clock - an outer plastic tube for the hour hand, an inner plastic tube for the minute hand and a tiny little metal pin for the second hand. It's the second hand we want, or else it will take an hour to get our picture. The challenge is attaching something to this tiny little pin. Fortunately, it turns out that this little pin is just the right size to fit snugly over the the end of a 0.7mm mechanical pencil. So I removed the tip from a mechanical pencil, and glued the pencil tip to the bottom of the plastic lid with white glue. The pencil tip has to be well-centered on the lid or else the mini will wobble back and forth in the photos. Finally, stick the cap on the clock mechanism. There, a simple little miniature turntable. Camera setup The main thing with the camera setup is to turn off all automatic features of your camera. Usually a camera will automatically determine things like the white balance, length of exposure, and focal distance. This is bad for an animation like this, since those parameters will change every frame and lead to flickering in the animation. On my camera (Canon EOS 400D) there is a switch on the top that I have to point to "M" for manual, and another switch on the lens that you have to set to "MF" for manual focus. The downside to manual mode is that you have to know how to choose good settings for your camera. I don't know how to do this. Luckily, a simple way to find good settings is to first set up the camera on the tripod with the mini in front of it and shoot a picture in automatic mode. Then once you switch to manual mode the setting should hopefully (!) be preserved. Image capture We have to set the camera up to take one photo every second for a minute. I couldn't figure out how to get my camera to shoot that fast, but I managed to get it to shoot once every two seconds. To do this I used tethered shooting mode, connecting the camera to my laptop via USB. Since I run Linux, I can then control the camera via the command-line utility gphoto2: gphoto2 --capture-image-and-download -I 2 -F 30 This tells it to capture 30 images, one image every 2 seconds and download them to the current directory. Once this command is done I have pictures named capt0000.jpg through capt0029.jpg in the current directory. Image processing To process these images into an animated gif I used another wonderful piece of software called imagemagick. First I import one of the images to my favourite photo editor, gimp, and adjust it as needed. I crop the image, do a global levels adjustment, and resize. As I go along I keep track of all the settings I use so I can put them into the command to imagemagick: convert capt*.jpg -crop 1200x1200+368+44! -resize 300x300 -level 0%,90%,0.8 -layers optimize damien.gif This tells it to load the jpg images we shot, crop to a rectangle 1200x1200 starting at a location (368,44) from the top right, resize to 300x300, then apply a global level adjustment with a white point of 90% and gamma of 0.8. It then converts the whole series to an optimized gif animation. A 30-frame image at 300x300 comes out to about 1.5 megs, which is small enough to attach to the forum. Conclusion There it is, hopefully others will give it a shot. When you do, post links in here. I'd be happy to answer any questions, or take suggestions on how I could improve the process.
  7. 1 point
    I had the privilege of painting this year's ReaperCon Sophie, and I thought people might enjoy it if I shared a few views. She's a fun mini to paint. Everything's clearly laid out and apparent, and Bob did such a wonderful job sculpting her face. I think he really captured the pose and spirit of Talin's artwork well. If you aren't into the wings, it shouldn't be too difficult to fill in the plug on the back where they slot in. If you are into wings, the extra attachment point of a small hole on the skirt makes them nice and easy to glue on, and they seem pretty secure to me. (I"m kind of cursed in the area of gluing/assembly.) This is a special edition figure that will only be sold by Reaper during ReaperCon (maybe a little after, but I'd go get one from August 29 - September 2 just to be sure. Actually I will be grabbing more than one, because I would happily paint this again, but however many you want, that's your window. Maybe put it on your calendar to remember if you really want one of these lovely figures. If you aren't able to attend ReaperCon in person, she'll also be sold on the Reaper web store. Here is the wonderful art that Izzy did for the character concept. Here's a picture of Bob Ridolfi's terrific sculpt bringing that artwork to life. And this is a colour version of a seated Sophie that I used to reference to try to capture Talin's vision for the colours.
  8. 1 point
    Got this one with the obligatory wobbly/weapon , bent, flimsy 2 handed battle axe (i cut off). Had some metal axes laying around. Pretty happy with it, or just buy the metal version ;) these are from a wonky set of Hobgoblins, Notice the hands still attached, but i will file those off
  9. 1 point
    White Drake is done, on to the black:
  10. 1 point
    The white drake is almost done. I just need to tighten up/sharpen a few details yet and cut the base. I think I'll finish it tonight.
  11. 1 point
    YET ANOTHER mini is based, primed, & waiting in the line to be painted. This is Bobby Jackson Miniatures' Goblin Queen 2. Seen here with a Dark Sword DiTerlizzi Goblin: I have a feeling that she might jump the line.
  12. 1 point
    Reaper 50235 Edna the crazy cat lady for the statue. The fountain is for Santa Edna de los Gatos.
  13. 1 point
    This Maleficent movie I am watching is infuriating. It is the second one Let's abandon all logic, strategy and tactics for the good guys to let the plot happen
  14. 1 point
    White Drake progress: Oh, and it looks like I have a home for them with one of my client companies (though the Red may need a repose; too many pieces).
  15. 1 point
    If you head over here https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/73135-broken-toad-tooth-fairy/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-1515799 I used UHU glue to do the initial strands and then added (very gently!) layers of Vallejo water effects to thicken/strengthen the drool.
  16. 1 point
    I was going to include the Mushroom Research Team & Peak's Pikes, but there wasn't enough room. on the stage.
  17. 1 point
    To complete the scene thus far, I took a few photos on The Twisted Tower Stage: Some of the photos may be redundant, but I couldn't make up my mind, such as it is, which ones to drop from the album. Anyway I hope you enjoy them.
  18. 1 point
    "wedgie formation" I nearly snorked hot coffee on that one!
  19. 1 point
    ...Chicken Coop Raiders...I like that. AND Sir Rudely's Ragged Wretches are DONE! The last three: AND the entire Gang seen here in their famous wedgie formation: Have a good night!
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for the lead, TGP. It does look like a jet fighter: It looks like I will be trying my hand at caterpillars & snails soon.
  21. 1 point
    There is no need to flame about a Forum's rules; re, if I dislike them enough, I will either drop out or spend less time there. My friend, Liz, sent me a link to a Caterpillar she thought came from my World: Now I NEED to make one or more.
  22. 1 point
    Here he is with a buddy From Wizkids, the Nolzurs version. I finally achieved the skin tone with Bloodhoof that i tried with Nolzurs last summer. Although the paint on the Nalzurs was a home-mix, and i was happy with it initially, i like the second try much better , especially in the photos. My one gripe, the Nolzurs is too small for a Minotaur, he should be bigger . The Nolzurs did come with a much better quality weapon. however, after my conversion I once again prefer the Reaper. Anyway, hopefully an interesting comparison.
  23. 1 point
    Actually, the idea has been around for awhile. There are several sellers on Etsy offering this sort of thing. Which is no strike against this creator. The more the merrier, I say.
  24. 1 point
    Moldy Mick the redoubtable Mushroom Ranger wrapped up this morning' Seen here with his Mushroom cohorts on my painting table: AND in The Spooky Woods: What comes next is anyone's guess.
  25. 1 point
    The first Mushroom in the Trio is done: More later...or not.
  26. 1 point
    Maybe the Gobbo will spread the Shroom's spores, taking them with them and burying them where he sees fit. A Goblin need a little purpose in his life, right?
  27. 1 point
    These three Fellow seem to belong together: SO I will do them up that way.
  28. 1 point
    Starting a new project as I can never have enough of them. Since I finished my standing stones and visited Waylands Smithy last weekend I have decided to build a Long Barrow. Here is a photo of the real thing, I am not particularly happy with the foam that I am using but with the current situation you have to work with what you have. Started by cutting the interior rooms, shaping the hill and dressing the interior and exterior with foam stones. Slopes were added using pollyfilla. Foam was primed and sand and details were added to the interior. The interior will be visible but not accessible on this model. I will paint the interior first then finish building the rest of the hill.
  29. 1 point
    Today I finished Sir Rudely & his faithful though fetid steed, Alpo: AND The Gang thus far: The Wizard is underway. SO there may be more pics soon...or not.
  30. 1 point
    Yesterday I did a modification on a L.A.M. Goblin. He was meant to be a Dwarfen captive/slave. I did some modifying on the Lad to give him a raggedy free Goblin looking for a gold mine of his own. I made up some mushrooms for the base & by evening he was at this stage: Today he got his base coat: More later...whenever that is.
  31. 1 point
    And some dry brush. Will do another wash in... an hour or so and see about final dry brush tomorrow
  32. 1 point
    That wash is tying things together I might mask things a bit during later drybrushing
  33. 1 point
    This also becomes an option
  34. 1 point
    SO I took a few photos of the Shire Dragon in The Spooky Woods...I will bet you noticed: There you go!
  35. 1 point
    First I distress the wood (balsa, bass wood, & insulation foam) by drawing a saw with the grain from one end to the othe. Doing it on a slight angle give a more natural effect than a straight up tear. Then I do my white dry brush over a black wash. I had been doing a charcoal then desert sand dry brush with a wash of bitter sweet chocolate & black mix(all these colors are Americana). Lately, since the charcoal was discontinued) I substitute Mississippi Mud or Mushroom for the charcoal. My buildings, by the way, are not removable.
  36. 1 point
    What is / was your painting formula for the walkways, boardwalks, and catwalks in the goblin village? I would like to emulate it someday (I have lots of craft sticks in a 28mm "lumberyard" that I would like to turn into a swamp town or dockside type of setting.)
  37. 1 point
    Grenadier made some wonderfully personable miniatures. The scarf was inspired by The Worm in Labyrinth...I am glad you like it.
  38. 1 point
    I made the drool on the fellow by using human hair(mine!), attaching them to a stick and then just dabbling superglue onto them. Took maybe 4 layers of glue to get the effect. Apologies for terrible picture
  39. 1 point
    There are several kinds, for this effect I used this one. Dries clear and like hard plastic.
  40. 1 point
    I finished the Grenadier Swamp Dragon aka Dragonfly earlier today. I then went nuts taking photos. This is the Dragonfly on my painting table/desk: Photos by the Goblin Village to follow.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I think everything made it to retail, but was in fairly limited quantities. Once something sold out it was gone, nothing had a second print run.
  43. 1 point
    I think I found it. I have several that just showed up here, one of them may be yours. :)
  44. 1 point
    All finished up! Thanks for all the feedback and support guys, this has been a fun set to create!!
  45. 1 point
    Sorry I didn't get around to posting the final render of this last lady of the evening. I wanted to talk a little bit about why this last figure took so long and demystify the working artist a bit. I had some other life stresses happening this week and although I sat at my computer everyday for hours upon hours working on this project I wasn't making substantial progress. Maintaining a healthy mental state is critical for production. If I were an accountant the math always stays the same, the task list is simply a matter of time to get through. For an artist, or any more creative endeavor, when your mental state is not at it's peak your work reflects that. This is not an obscure fact. Gallery artists are often praised for how well they communicate their mental state through their artwork (bad or good). Production art is a different sort of beast in that you have deadlines, you are part of a pipeline of production that needs results and in a relatively predictable timeline. For me, a figure usually takes about 2 or 3 days depending on complexity. This figure took me five days. That's a pretty significant difference and for other companies may have been a completely unacceptable thing. (One of the innumerable reasons why Reaper is a fantastic company) I wanted to bring this up for several reasons. 1. If you struggle with producing or performing creatively because of your mental state, you are not alone, you are normal, don't give up but do focus on improving your mental health. I didn't stop trying to work, every little bit of chiseling helps get to the goal, but I also focused on resolving what was causing the distress and restoring balance. 2. I wanted to point out how your mental state reflects in your artwork. This is unavoidable but something you can use to your advantage. When I was sculpting kid adventurers I tried to spend more time playing with my kids and paying attention to how they move. KS production deadlines had me mostly couch ridden while I worked feverishly for 12 or more hours a day but even just intentional observation of their movement was helpful. When sculpting these ladies I think about times in my life where I've flirted or felt in charge or seduced. What did that feel like, how did my body move, what feels natural in those mental states? Experience informs art so if you're ever in a creative bind/rut....GO DO, experience, find new things to feel. 3. Lastly, one of the reasons I often ask to share my process here is that I used to think that making a living as an artist was a nearly impossible thing. It was this elusive magical unicorn person who could actually do that. I'm not a magical unicorn person, but I did have to learn a lot of new and often uncomfortable mindset and lifestyle changes that facilitate and make working this way even possible. I want to share those techniques when I can so that people know it's not impossible, just often difficult. Thanks for sticking with me and for all the support and feedback. It truly means a lot to me <3
  46. 1 point
    Hey guys! Okay, so I wrapped up this Orc Doxie today. When all the big construction decisions and head are already finalized the only thing left to do is render. This is a time consuming process but a lot of the hard part is over. I don't have a lot of WIP pics to share but I will share my thoughts on this step of the process.I I really like to work from the top to the bottom when rendering. Idk why, it's not better or worse necessarily but it makes my OCD completionist side happy to watch the final image come together in a scanner type way. Bonus is that I got to start with rendering the hair! The dreadlocks on this figure were one of the parts I was really excited about. I have sculpted dreadlocks once before and they came out terribly. Drawing them they never seem to look quite right and i was determined to get something with the spunky attitude and fun texture this time around. One of the problems I always deal with is that trying to create texture with brushes like orb crack or dam standard tend to leave very uniform and overly exaggerated delineations. Step 1: I blocked out the hair (as you saw from yesterday) with a large sphere shape just pushed around into a general silhouette with the move brush. Step 2: Defining each lock and decided which ones I wanted to overlap which other ones. I also used the inflate brush to make each lock rounded on it's own as needed. (I don't have a photo of this step because I got into work mode and didn't think to screenshot it. Sorry guys, I'll try to be better next time) Step 3: Adding the texture by using the blob brush at various sizes in two passes. The first pass looked fine but the second pass really seemed to make it feel right. As the last touch I went over one of the inner locks with the clay builder brush in a criss-cross pattern and defined the edges of it with the orb crack brush to create the ribbon wrap from the concept art. After the hair was finished I moved down the chain to the bone necklace, creating smaller teeth or bones and a linking thread to the little skull I had placed there yesterday. The process continued pretty much like that all day. I made sure all my underlying anatomy looked good before finalizing the layers above and combined subtools as needed. This model actually had surprisingly few subtools. A regular character model typically has between 30 and 80 subtools by the end of it. This one only had 19! Throughout the rendering process I'm also problem solving any casting issues. Making sure the fabric of the sleeves fills any gaps between the arms and the body, making sure the hair was long enough to allow the mold to easily release the left arm etc. I used to leave this step til the end but I've found that incorporating it into my rendering process allows those decisions to still be in the design phase. I can make sure the flow of the composition isn't broken because the hair had to move 4 mm further down than I initially thought to fill a hole. When I finished rendering everything I run it by Ron one more time to make sure there aren't any further changes that need to be made and make sure we're both happy with the results. One of the suggestions I had for edits was to pull the neckline of the corset down a bit. I felt like a the downward swoop worked better for eye flow throughout the piece than the upward swoop of the original design. We looked at it both ways and compared the tonal differences it made for the piece as well as the general appeal of it. The conclusion was the the upward swoop felt more cutesy whereas the down ward swoop seemed more sexy. Ultimately he left the decision to me and I preferred the downward swoop. One of the things I really enjoy about working with Reaper is the level of authority they give the artists. A lot of the design decisions get left up to the sculptor and they welcome suggestions for minis we just WANT to make. This really makes for an enjoyable work experience as well as some great diversity within the miniature lines. Here's the final Orc Doxie: I'm really proud of this one, she was really fun to make and I'm excited to see what painters will do with her! Finished this one just in time to make dinner and enjoy my full moon friday night! I won't be working tomorrow because I'm taking my son for his first monster truck show (which he's super excited about) but I'll be back on Sunday starting on the Halfling doxie! Have a great weekend!
  47. 1 point
    Just awesome, very great Paint job. I was fortunate to get one from the Reapercon BoGw, cannot wait to use my meager skills to paint it up. Question: will Izzy's concept artwork show up in the new art book coming in bones 4?
  48. 1 point
    Overlords - 1000 points - Onyx Legion Doctrine Troop 1 (655 pts) General Matisse Armor of Courage Magic Weapon Arik Gix, Inquisitor Strach, Warmage Ranthe, Evangelist of Khardullis Shadow Legionnaire x 5 Overlord Spearman x 2 Bondslave x 3 Troop 2 (146 pts) Taletia, Disciple of Ashkrypt Lola Darkslip, Assassin Magic Ranged Weapon Bondslave x 6 Troop 3 (98 pts) Onyx Golem Troop 4 (98 pts) Onyx Golem Troop 5 (3 pts) Luck Stone Total Models: 24 Damage Traoks: 52 I've recently had an uneasy experience against this list using Icingstead proxies with Boerogg, but I see here a great potential as a universal list. We used scenarios from our campaign engine, so I try to make analysis based on them. Here are 4 main combos: 1. Maneuverability of the main troop based on Burst of Speed from Ranthe. That allows 5+5+5+2=17" of movement of the seemingly slow infantry unit. 2. 5x2 Spies guarantee having all the activations before or after the opponent, as needed. 3. Taletia, a seemingly weak mage, however can siphon here slaves and effectively cast Barrage on Lola, making a pair of extremely dangerous templates. 4. She can also easily teleport golems, adding further maneuverability. The overall concept is based on a complete main troop with staunch infantry for defense, Matisse to kill something, heavy magic phase to soften things up and buff, slaves for divert and additional support. Small second troop is designed to make nasty surprises to get easy points from enemy, where opportunity arises. Golems make perfect solo fighters. On defense the main troop may survive a serious onslaught and then bring a sure retribution, but it is assault where it shines. For attack we may concentrate the power of the main troop on any direction and make that quickly. We use our spies to get complete initiative. We activate last and move on the double, with burst of speed close enough to the enemy, then activate first the following turn, smash enemy screen with magic and let Matisse with friends to swarm and annihilate the most powerful enemy melee model - this charge may be destructive enough to kill even 6 DT 13DV model with DR2 (like buffed Boerogg, for example), thus crippling the opponent's ability to perform effective melee further. The effectiveness of this charge may be again enhanced by teleporting golem and kill something tasty, that is exposed by the main troop. This main troop is best deployed and moved in a square, with heroes safe in the center, thus preventing the enemy to get Ranthe from afar or swarm Matisse. Scenarios with open houses, like Battle for the village, Pillage, Release can be won easily. With control of the deck and burst of speed we may get to the doors and take shelter inside the buildings even before the enemy approaches. Having staunch infantry it is easy to defend there and elites can work effectively from the upper storeys, punishing with templates the enemy crowded together tightly to storm the doors. Only a couple of factions can effectively try to forestall our dash and anyway we enforce the opponent to behave in a predictable way, that makes us easy to make an effective battle plan. In scenarios based on Markers, like Pitched battle, Ambush, Bridge etc. our golems are just brilliant. We let the enemy to get stuck in fighting and then teleport golems to seize enemy rear markers and hold them till the end. If the enemy holds the markers with expensive and tough models, being afraid of this golem infiltration, then we have upper hand in main melee. Cheap models would not hold markers from golems. So the opponent either goes on passive defense, trying to secure markers, and can be chewed down piecemeal, while we can choose the moment and place to strike with all our might, or throws caution to the winds and goes into all-out assault - then we use our magic, shooting and meat shields to soften him up and make counterattack later. One more effective combo is as follows - we may threaten enemy mages or expensive snipers with a fork of solutions. If enemy is deployed and moves loosely, we may throw a golem forward and hunt this model if such an exchange may be profitable. If the enemy surrounds the mages tightly, we use barrage from Lola, even exposing her, what is devastating against soft models, killing them outright. I consider this list to be an obvious favourite (considering a skilled player as well!) during our currently running campaign out of all 9 players, let's see if my prediction comes true :)
  49. 1 point
    Played around a little bit last night. Tweaked some settings....still washed out. Introduced a piece of white envelope....not bad. Then tweaked a few more settings. I think that looks pretty close to reality.
  50. 1 point
    As I threatened last week, here is another batch of old enamel paintjobs from around 15-25 years ago. Troll Firbolg Mind Flayers Gnolls Owlbear Basilisk Xorn Finally, some fairies linked here in case anyone has a problem with a teeny-tiny glimpse of fairy flesh.
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