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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/24/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Here's another set intended for Frostgrave: Ghost Archipelago. I tried to do up the Bloodstone Gnomes as Tribals, as one of the Tribal traits is Pygmy and their armor seemed that fantasy MesoAmericana
  2. 2 points
    Spent today hobbying with a friend and though most of my efforts were focused on other projects I did manage to paint a little. All of the dresses have color now. Really I just used this as an excuse to try out a lot of the Reaper colors I hadn't gotten around to yet. Surprisingly I use a lot of the same colors over and over again as I painted Guardsmen.
  3. 2 points
    This one is cool, IMO. Ever wished that Shadow Demon came in a different color than Purple? Once again, presenting my experiments with translucent Bones and Tamiya Clears. Warning Pic Heavy First off, an untouched Shadow Demon: With Tamiya Clear Gloss: Untouched next to the one with the clear gloss: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: Tamiya Clear Yellow: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Smoke: All of them, in all their glory: As you can see, the Tamiya clears can actually change the color while maintaining the translucency on the smaller and thinner parts. The only one that doesn't do this to the same degree as the others is the Smoke. Hope people find this useful.
  4. 1 point
    Even though the Isle of Dread game I had been running died a premature death this summer, it's never too early to paint minis for its return, right? The group: Jaatu, a Reaper Miniatures piece I've had in progress since release in 2003, apparetnly. It's good to finally wrap up a mini after 13 years... A Tribal Champion (possibly from Chronopia, I got him with a broken weapon from a trade) And a group of Menehune, from Paymaster Games "Going Native" series: I tried to give the Menehune some traditional tattoos, then kind of gave up. I'm definitely getting a Micron marker before I try to do any tattoowork again.
  5. 1 point
    Today's mini is a blast from the past, Reaper's casting of the Heritage Red Dragon. Because of his seemingly furry chest/stomach, he is called the hippie dragon. He is one of many miniature purchases from the old Lone Star Comics. I raided the store for weird miniatures. The had a lot of bagged Reaper minis for sale.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I love him in all his gross uglyness! His bent horns, hairy belly, flabby wrinkles, giant boils and pustules, overgrown toenails, beat up armor, dead bird on the belt. Love it! So much character.
  8. 1 point
    I am jealous of y'all's bowls of tomatoes. I am still just getting a handful of stuff at a time and all the tomatoes are gone within 5 minutes of entering the house. We have lots of little green ones, and a few big green ones, but only a couple ripen at a time. Today's harvest The first black cherry tomatoes. They are less sweet than the orange zingers we have been getting, but still a strong tomato flavor.
  9. 1 point
    Walk through the garden this morning. Still not a lot. But this has been a bad year for pests, and the 90 degree plus weather with very little rain we've had for the last five weeks isn't helping either.
  10. 1 point
    We've adjusted our Science program accordingly!
  11. 1 point
    First slicing tomatoes of the year are ripening up. Still not sure which varieties are going to be most successful, but we're still early in figuring out what grows well in our yard. This is a Berkeley Tie Dyed and it's doing better than anything else at the moment. 8 more should be ready by the weekend. And looks like at least another half dozen little ones are developing well, and even a few flowers just forming.
  12. 1 point
    Minitaurus that I painted. Go to this topic on the last page please and vote for the miniature that you liked. There is a battle between the miniatures.
  13. 1 point
    Keto? Well the only solution then is to feed them to your pig. Haha.
  14. 1 point
    You should be able to eat fresh potatoes any way you like. The traditional method is fried in butter with fresh parsley on top. Curing is usually done by leaving the roots in the ground for a couple weeks after the tops die off. Store potatoes in a cool dark area with ventilation. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/tips-keeping-harvested-potatoes-fresh One of my pots has sprouted a new cat:
  15. 1 point
    Hey, folks! The NOVA Open Charitable Foundation raffle is live and there are some beautiful miniatures available! From 2013-2019, NOVA has raised over $300,000, primarily for Doctors Without Borders, Breast Cancer Research Foundation, and Fisher House. My 2019 ReaperCon Sophie is up for grabs. Proceeds from Sophie will benefit Fisher House. https://www.novaopenfoundation.org/?fbclid=IwAR2yuB1tNnOUXGNCK4kwtcA-WX6Rynx_8hM2WJr3n0KYjjelx2P5eO4Owrg
  16. 1 point
    Got some raspberries from the raspberry bush that we didn't plant before the weekend went wrong. Hoping to enjoy them over some ice cream tonight. Looks like there are still a lot more raspberries to come.
  17. 1 point
    Finished! From my childhood box of unfinished baddies. He's stamped 1979, I feel old! :)
  18. 1 point
    kaiju and giant robots More superheroes and mad scientists
  19. 1 point
    Today's harvest! Also, my Yukon Gold potatoes all have flowers, and it's making me unreasonably happy every time I see them. Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  20. 1 point
    Zucchini skin. Nature's first stealth suit. If you live in New Hampshire the really big ones will sneak into the back seat of your car while no one is looking! They don't lock cars there to keep the car, they lock them to keep the zucchini out!
  21. 1 point
    @Pegazus my drip line got cut in several places and I had to rip it out earlier this spring to do repairs. Hasn't happened yet and likely won't until it cools off this fall. Picked 3 more cucumbers today. Getting a bit tired of cukes in vinegar, going to make up this slaw recipe for tonight. It's a bit of chopping but well worth it. I'll make about half the recipe (1 apple and 1 of my small cukes) minus the peppers for DH. That's enough for 2 people. Crisp Apple and Cucumber Salad Servings: 4 1 Tbsp white sugar 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp minced dill 1 Tbsp minced parsley 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp minced garlic 1 medium fresno pepper 1/2 cucumber (peeled and cut in small strips) 2 granny smith apples (cut in small strips)
  22. 1 point
    Put in a drip system today. Included the leafless pepper plant (the twin that was doing better was dug up and murdered by small paws; not sure if beagle or squirrel), the leafless tomato, and the leafless squash. They all have been hanging on for over a week now so I will give them a fighting chance. Mistook end-of-line drippers for in-line ones so had to redo a lot of them. Did it in the morning so it would not be so hot but wound up the morning sun was hotter than the afternoon when it clouded up. Grr. Polished off a huge container of Gatorade (52 oz) so I think I sweated just a bit much. Didn’t get to everything I wanted to do garden wise this weekend but I can do a bit during the week I suppose.
  23. 1 point
    Here's another WIP for the Necron Tomb Complex. It's sort of my version of a translocator. You'll be able to model it opened or closed. The outer shell is pretty much done, now I'm working on the inner parts.
  24. 1 point
    Unexpected benefit of growing one's own food: taking a bite of cold cereal, deciding it really could use some strawberries, and being able to remedy the problem immediately. Unexpected side-effect of using one's own berries: discovering that while the berries taste fine on their own, the sugar in the Honey Nut Cheerios completely drowns out the (still kind of low) amount of natural sugar in the berries, resulting in a comparatively acidy taste instead. Lesson learned for next time! It also doesn't help that I've been inclined to pick my few berries a couple of days early, so I get a chance to eat them before the snails/slugs, dirt microbes, or occasional squirrel do. Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  25. 1 point
    Looks good so far. If you want that bark to come off as a mountain you will need to paint it. This stuff can soak up your paint ( test a little) if so, you might want to seal it with a brush on sealer and then paint it. Seal again afterwards. The add some tiny flock as moss etc..
  26. 1 point
    PART II - SAILING IN UNCHARTED WATERS Thanks everyone who has joined me on my little ten year journey so far. Your advice and your encouragement have helped me a lot to stay on course. I have learned a lot and have tried a few things that I wouldn't have attempted on my own. Now it is time to leave my comfort zone for good and head for the open sea of "I have no idea what I'm doing" - it's time for BASING! I have to confess I never really base my minis if I don't have to. The wildest thing I have done so far was to put a sheet of cork under the mini and call it a rock. Also I have covered a few bases in white glue and dipped them in sand and dry brushed the result later. That's about it. When the mini has a ready made base, I happily just paint that. I even paint the DHL broccoli bases and I am only a little bit ashamed of that! What do I have so far? In the last intensive phase, about ten years ago, I seemed to have glued some pieces of cork to a round base. I don't know what glue I used, but I remember, that I found the cork in a pet shop. Apparently lizards like to chill on those things. The shop assistant gave it to me for free, because I just wanted so little and I happily took the broken pieces. So here is what I have right now . Monk and ravens are joining the piece for a first serving suggestion. Next I will start to search for some materials I can use in basing. Since this piece is (still) going to be a gift I will limit the materials to things I can seal. The mini has to be packed, shipped and then survive on some dusty shelf. I imagine the scene taking place somewhere on a mountain path. That means, I need to make a dirt road, some sand/gravel/small rocks, some grass and maybe a little bush or two. Maybe some more branches or roots somewhere. I don't know. Nothing too fancy - I need to finish this and not get scared again! I am very excited about this second part because it's all very new to me. If you have any ideas ore any suggestions please keep them coming. I would be honoured if you join me for the second leg of my journey. Let's leave the coast behind and set course for the open sea!
  27. 1 point
    Finally, some Progress. Finished the highlights of the habit and - therefore - the monk. Two coats of gloss and one coat of satin varnish, so I consider him done. For my first black cloth I think the result is ok. At least that is about what I am capable at this stage. Here he is, together with the ravens who will accompany him on the little display piece. The white spot on the upper arm was some leftover tack which has since been removed. Also, those close up pictures are very sobering. Looking at the picture vs. looking at the actual mini is not fun at all...
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    My isolation time is over since a few days and I'm back at work. So now my painting pace is slowing down again. (Also I got scared by all the small bits on the monk and ended up working on some other minis.) But now I am finished with the fiddly parts. There is the bronze cross on a leather necklace with mother-of-pearl inlays (looks just like silver but I know what it's supposed to be ) and a rosary made of olive wood. Thanks for the challenge @strawhat and @NebulousMissy! The olive wood really scared me and I'm not sure I was successful, but at least it doesn't look like gold, so that is that! And I completely ruined one of my old brushes in the process... Here he is: Now for the next challenge: I have to paint the highlights of his habit. I have never painted black cloth so far, so I'll have to do some research first. Any good advice to point me in the right direction is really appreciated!
  30. 1 point
    Great to see you working on the little diorama. Lovely skin on the monk so far, looking forward to seeing it in it's full glory.!
  31. 1 point
    Have you seen the olive wood rosaries? There's a fair amount of variation in color in them, and could allow for a bit more visual "pop."
  32. 1 point
    Tonight I browsed through a few online shops for catholic devotional items and I researched a bit about monks an catholicism in general. The cross at his side is definitely a rosary. Most of the rosaries I found were made out of wood, with wooden pearls. So that one is definitely going to bee wood. I will reinterpret the lines for jewellery as carvings. So here I will follow the suggestion of @NebulousMissy. For the other one around his neck I will use a version I found on ebay (I can't use a link here, since you can still buy it). It is made out of bronze with mother-of-pearl inlays. So I'm going to try that. Let's see how it turns out!
  33. 1 point
    What about old wood? Pale wood worn shiny, allowing for slightly more highlight than you normally think. A middle ground between the shine of metallics and the historical accuracy of dull wood.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I'm getting ready to paint my Kyphryxis Dragon in the Translucent Bones, and wanted to test how the different colors of the Tamiya Clears looked on the Bones translucent material. So I picked up some of the 77306 Translucent Slimes. These are literally quick paints - I just slopped on the Tamiya Clear on each one. I'm posting them here not to show off, but for your convenience and reference. Warning - Pic heavy First off, a plain, untouched translucent Bones slime: The Tamiya Clear Gloss really makes the Slime translucent: The effect is much more noticeable when you see them side by side: Next, painted in Tamiya Clear Yellow: Next in Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Smoke: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: And finally, my actual test piece, which I'm calling a "Fire Slime". I will probably be using a similar scheme for my Kyphrixis: As you can see, the Tamiya Clears are really good at literally changing the color of the translucent Bones material, while maintaining the translucency. At some point, i think I'm going to try and pick up multiples of some of the other translucent colors, and do similar test pieces. I already know from the fire elementals that it will change the tones of the red/orange Bones.
  36. 1 point
    Next up in my Tamiya Clears experiments - the Green. The Green behaves much like the purple does, meaning that the clears can almost completely recolor it, if the piece is thin enough. First up, untouched: With the Clear Gloss. Again, it really brings out the translucence: With the Smoke. Out of all the colors I've tested so far, the smoke works best on the green. With the Green: With the Red: With the orange: With the Yellow. This one seems to have the hardest time with the green: With the blue: And all of them together:
  37. 1 point
    Starting on my invisible Kyphrixis. I really need to pick up a couple more of these when they become available, because I have a couple different ideas I want to try. This version is going to be a Flame Dragon. Base primed with Brown Liner: First limb done to get an idea of how quickly I would have to work to blend the Tamiya Clears I am using. Was just getting started when I had to stop for the evening:
  38. 1 point
    got a little more done - mostly drybrushing on the base: Just going to do eyes, teeth and claws, then calling him done.
  39. 1 point
    To follow up on my experiments with Tamiya Clears, I present its effects on the Orange Translucents. Unfortunately, it doesn't work as well on the thicker pieces. At some point, I think I need to go back and retry this with a different orange mini, like the medium fire elemental. Warning, pic heavy I don't have an untouched Burning Sphere, so no picture of it untouched. First up, Tamiya Clear Yellow Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Smoke: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange:
  40. 1 point
    Got the base of the clears painted on. On to details.
  41. 1 point
    Some generic size 3 or 4 synthetic brush I got at Micheal's or Hobby Lobby. I literally just slopped the paint on the solid color ones. When I go to do Kyphrixis, I will likely use a smaller brush and take more care.
  42. 1 point
    Wow really nice, i have the tamiya red clear and its really cool for fresh blood effect, but what you did its pretty cool, i probably gonna buy some more tamiya clears. :P
  43. 1 point
    Thanks. Yes - alcohol. Specifically isopropanal and glycol ethers. i don't mix them with anything else, and I have a set of brushes dedicated to them. ETA: That doesn't necessarily mean you can't, I don't know, and therefore, I never do. I picked the majority of them up specifically for my translucent bones - I had a bottle of red and blue from a police car model I did years ago, and when someone mentioned the clears would work on the Translucent Bones, i tried those two, and loved the effect, so picked the rest up.
  44. 1 point
    Hmm, no real progress due to too much work However, i managed to get some cork sheet (2,5 square meters actually, they dind't sell smaller quantities so I should be settled for life...) and made some experiments: I built a cork base for an old grenadier model and another using pumice paste for an equally ancient mini from the metal magic dunwich detective line (pictures will follow, when I find some time - probably in about two weeks or so). After trying super glue first I found out that it's not really good for cork, so I followed your advice, demonelf3, and used some white glue (a brand called MIOCOLL). Yup, perfect, should have listened to you right away. Mooseyjoe - thanks for the Idea with the pine bark. I'll definitely try that - maybe even on this project, if I find some that isn't sold in 20-litre-bags!
  45. 1 point
    What you're doing is great. I wouldn't take that guy's advice, since have never had cork problem and tons of great bases have it. To glue cork I use any old white glue, most recently Aleene's Tacky. Michaels slls both glue and cork. However, cork is the first step. Consider laying some fine sand over the cork. Looking forward to this scene. =D
  46. 1 point
    Thanks, Sanael! You really helped me with my decision to go for - the smaller base . The idea with the cave entrance sounds cool, but may be a bit too much for the beginning as I haven't based one mini yet. The cork sheet on the other hand - I'll definitely try that! With a side order of pumice paste I bought some time ago at my FNSLGS (my friendly not so local game shop, about 900 km away - I've yet to find a good one around here). I confess - Ive already tried to tackle the project on my own. But I didn't get very far... Ok, so there isn't much of a diorama left. It's more like an extended base now. But I feel comfortable with that decision. SOME QUESTIONS ABOUT CORK Here in this forum and over at CMON I've seen a lot of minis with a base made of cork. It looks great. However, when I talked to the guy at my FNSLGS (mentioned above) he advised me strongly not to use it. He told me that cork shrinks over time which could end in cracking the paint and/or varnish. Has any of you experienced this? What do you do to prevent it? Which glue is best to glue cork on a plastic base and/or to more cork? WHAT NEXT? I have decided on a base and on my basic basing material. Now I have to find a place that a) is not too far away and b) will sell me some cork sheet. After that I'll start building some rock formations - and take more pictures!
  47. 1 point
    I, personally, love the idea of a sheet of cork...we have some cork shelf liner here that came in a roll form...it's about 1.5mm thick and is great for building rocky risers. You could pretty easily tear out a circle about the same size as the base (and I like the tightness of the 40mm base if you're not doing any major scenic elements), then build up two different elevations, one for the monk and one for the raven-tree. Glue the cork layers down and drill holes for pinning, then you're ready to prime! Just because I mention it every time I talk about basing, pumice paste would make it real easy to add some smaller texture, like rubble or skree. It would also be a good way to put some texture on that monk's base (I'd say either that, or get out the nippers and the dremel to remove that base, since it's not a very natural texture). You could also add oregano or some other kind of ground-cover vegetation once you've got everything painted. That would help sell the "mountain with trees" concept a little more. Keep it coming! This'll be a fun project.
  48. 1 point
    No, this Thread's not dead! It was just, uh, asleep! RL has been using up much of my time lately and I don't want to complain - I've got a very exciting life right now - however, that means only little time for my project here. But I'll try to stay on track. Since I want to finish by the end of August fortunally that means I dont have to rush . LAYOUT, FIRST TRY I've been advised to prep the minis only when I know where I'm going (good advice, I think, I'll follow it), so that means more planning. Actually it was Jabberwocky's post that led to the decision to keep it simple and just use a regular, if slightly larger, base and go from there. I mean - it's like first project and all, I'll get in trouble soon enough so I better not force it. So I went out and bought a pack of overpriced round bases from The Company That Must Not Be Named (It's hard to get anything else around here ) and started experimenting. There are two sizes that look promising - 40mm (as Jabberwocky suggested) and the larger 60mm base. Of course it's hard to imagine how it looks with the minis on it so I took some pictures: THE 40mm BASE Arranging it all on a 40mm base is not easy, here's a first try: Remembering I have three dimensions to work with I built a little riser for the Hermit - that's almost one Swiss Frank worth of money! . Of course the money could be replaced with cork, Rock or some other material. Maybe even Green Stuff? Hmm, like it better than the first version, but the Ravens look really big compared to the monk ... THE 60mm BASE Let's try the other base! Whoa, this is huge! A lot of space to fill with (shudder) Scenery Hmm, there would bee room for a pond, but I think I'll try that at another time (like, way in the future). But moving my minis around there would be room for a rock or a tree. Still very scary, but not as scary as the pond... SO WHAT DO I WANT ? That's the question I have to answer before moving on. And I hope I can answer that in broad strokes: The scene takes place in the mountains near Zurich (that probably means I need rocks and/or cork for the base as well as some higher ground in whatever way) in the woods (that's harder. On the large base I could just go and buy a ready-made tree, but how would I show a woodland scene on the small base?) Now this is as far as I got. What size of base should I take? The large one, where I have to include so much scenery (which I am not too good at)? The smaller one with no room for a tree but still the need for a "woodland feel"? Suggestions? Ideas? I hope you all can help me with this. And no - this thread is not dead. Just asleep - sometimes
  49. 1 point
    Thanks for the tips. I'll have some time today to look around and get some more ideas, maybe visit a hobby store or two - because tomorrow it's "back to work" BEWARE OF THE NEWB It just ocurred to me - it's probably better to paint the figures first and build the base later, right?
  50. 1 point
    My favorite things to use are pieces of wood. I have a bunch of pieces left over from my husband's bookshelf project and if those won't do the trick I check out my local hobby store and see what they have. You can glue everything on, but you might want to add some texture to the base with milliput or green stuff as well.
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