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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/31/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    As promised some months ago, I painted a wyrmgear like a circuit board :) Enjoy!
  2. 2 points
    Slowly making some progress, added barkeep, floor tiles, trapdoor, fireplace (cauldron is placeholder) log pile. Cauldron is next, then a door, walls, whatever else springs to mind. Some drunken customers maybe.
  3. 1 point
    I have yet to unpack the Elegoo Mars. However I installed Chitubox. I have now loaded files. As recommended on Youtube I filled the bed with several minis to print. And I laid them flat to speed up the printing process and tilted them a little. Test subjects: Snake Warrior Cobra ( with base) Bat Demon Small Foo Dog statues Asian Ghost Oni in three parts. Added the automated supports.
  4. 1 point
    Agent Anthrax printed out wonderfully! I did use a lot of supports, so when removing it I accidently cut off a part of his tail. But when dry superglue will fix that. Since the many supports left some marks, I will have to sand down a few spots. But overall... SUCCES!!! First succesful print. Now printing the Bat Demon as Test Print Nr. 2. We will know in about 3,5 hours. If it works then all settings are good. In that case I will try printing in the basement at lower temperatures tomorrow. If that fails than it will be the temperature. But I would prefer it because there's better ventilation there. However, WOOF announces Project 3D Printing to be a succes so far. It now dries under a dome in the Sun. If necessary I can put it under an UV nail dryer, but let's see if this works. @Gadgetman! that miniature is called Human Female Wizard
  5. 1 point
    Sounds like a perfectly reasonable idea to me. They also say that doing crossword puzzles helps, or doing jigsaw puzzles. (Not that I care about crosswod puzzles... Give me a Sudoku or a Nonogram instead pleas. And keep your clammy paws off my rather large collection of jigsaw puzzles) Keep her a bit more upright. It'll increase the printing time a bit, but it will also significantly reduce the number of supports. Also, I expect that Chitubox has a setting for 'critical angle' that it uses to decide if something needs support. This is usually set to 30degrees. This number is set rather conservatively, in order for evenyone to get good prints as often as possible. I've had good experience pushing this to below 20degrees. And a setting of 25 degrees should be just fine as long as you do an inspection to verify that what needs supports actually has them. I'm no expert in Chitubox, but at least some slicers have a setting for 'internal supports'. In Formware disabling this will also stop it from starting a support on top of something to support something even higher up. Less scarring to contend with... The mini to the left of the MyMinifactory set, does it have a name or title of any kind?
  6. 1 point
    These files were included with the USB from the Elegoo. That Lion will certainly be printed for my Shifting Sands Project one day
  7. 1 point
    I paused for a while to see if there was still some resin in there. It was and I already saw supports and part of the mini. So at least it works and it doesn't stick to the FEP. Now to see if the mini will be complete and alright. A little more than an hour to go. The noise is not so loud, the smell is not that awful. All in all very exciting and I'm in suspense if it will turn out right. My test subject is WOOF Special Agent Anthrax.
  8. 1 point
    Set up the printer applied kapton Tape, Levelled it and now first print is in progress. Dog with Gasmask We will know in a few hours if it worked or if I need to adjust it. When I installed the USB I noticed it came with a bunch of files from Myminifactory. Several minis like a barbarian. female wizard, paladin etc are included.
  9. 1 point
    The recommended retract speed for my printer (Epax X1) is 150 mm/min. It is also an acceptable setting for the Mars.
  10. 1 point
    Thx @Rahz, I have more poses of that dog. I'm tinkering with the supports, maybe a few too many are less bad than too few. I need to find the right way.Hopefully I can print something during the weekend, the dog and the asian ghost lady both seem to take up about two and a half hour.
  11. 1 point
    No... @Glitterwolf I feel that your dog has way too many supports, but again, that's me. Some of the ones on the outside of the hips don't look necessary. This is just a personal guess based on a couple images that I can't manipulate. But remember, you're placing supports to ensure the model sticks to the build plate and to support islands. That dog is what, 3-4cm long and will weigh about as much as a similar-sized Bones model. Also, that is a totally cool model!!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I wouldn't worry about how long prints take right now. Get your settings dialed in and get comfortable and play with things after. But generally, the higher/taller a model, the longer it will take to print. Exposure time and layer thickness will also have huge impacts on print time. I have learned to accept that it will take however long it takes. I switched to .04mm layer height and tweaked my exposure settings when trying to get prints to work after a run of failures with a new resin. This really increased the print time, BUT I got nice prints after. If I can fit multiple parts of a model on the bed at once, I do so, always.
  14. 1 point
    I use Elegoo Mars Grey. Density is also 1.1 as is the default in Chitubox for this machine. So that means I'm good, right?
  15. 1 point
    The bubble is from the protective cover on the bottom of the FEP. Grab the red sticker and peal it off. Just like the screen protectors for phones, tablets... You would tinker with these depending on the resin you are using BEFORE you slice. Once you slice the model, it breaks it down for the printer based on these settings.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    @Neatpete @Clearman Thank you for your advice! I will now choose one mini for the first file. Hoping to try it out during the 3 day weekend that's coming ( Kingsday Monday!). I want to try a file and not use the Rook Test file from the Mars, I consider it a waste of resin to print that Rook which I never will need. Or is this an unwise move?? Any thoughts on the FEP?
  18. 1 point
    I have an anycubic photon S and I love it! Looks like you are enjoying it yourself, and congrats on a fun new tool for the hobby. here are a couple suggestions I can offer you. 1) positioning the model is very important. Find an orientation where you need the least supports and they will be the least visible. This will often be about a 30 angle on its back, but really depends on the mini. The more upright you go, the longer it takes, but the more you can hide the supports. 2) use manual supports, the auto support function is terrible! It might be a tool you can use to get an idea, but I’m a hard pass on that. I use a lot of Light supports for almost everything, and you can tweak the touch points of the supports so they aren’t as deep. My light supports pull off with my hand with little to no artifacts on the model. I use a few medium supports per model to anchor it. I put these in spots you will never see. Like the heel of the feet and any major undercut. The edit support feature is fiddly, by really helps you pull a support away from the model or get into a wired spot. You can also change where the support touches the model to hide them even more. I was having all these supports running up the legs of minis and couldn’t possibly clean them off and it was frustrating. Pull them away from the model, more than you’d think. 3) look from the bottom of the build plate and go up in layers, looking for islands or spots with undercuts. The flatter the surface, the more supports you’ll need. When in doubt, use a support. 4) do one model at a time until you know the supports work as expected and the print is stable. Once you have a stable file, you can pack the build plate. I usually do a test print. If that looks okay, then I know file is good to go. Otherwise I can make specific edits. You don’t want to end up with full plate of stuff that can be ruined for something that was missed somewhere else. 5) anytime you fail, you need to clean your film and the resin bath. Stuff gets caked onto the film and you’ll fail all prints after that. Floating chunks of cured resin in your bath is no good either. I hate cleaning my bath so I... 6) take your time setting the supports. I spend about 15-30 mins per mini setting up the supports. Upfront time saves you repeated print time and clean up time. overall I love my anycubic. Definitely some frustrating times and challenges to start, but now I can look at a mini, know which way to orientate it and where my supports need to go. I really suggest taking the time one model at a time and learning from your mistakes. Look at a failed print, and then look at your file. Oh, I needed a support on that elbow or under that mace handle, or brim of hat. After a couple times of analyzing a failed print, you start to catch on and get the hang of it. best of luck!
  19. 1 point
    Filling the build plate does not increase print time the way it would for an FDM printer, so you might as well. Though starting on something small might be good if you want to wait around for it. It's just the height that increases print time. Keep in mind though that resin printing works best above 20C, below that you might get failures simply due to the temperature. My printer is in my shed, so I have to wait a bit longer to start it up again I'm considering getting one of those small space heaters for reptiles for it though.
  20. 1 point
    I completely understand that! 3d printing is definitely going to help keep your mind active. regarding print times, I've found that chitubox is pretty accurate in its estimates, but you will need to get the right settings for the resin (which if you've already got you should be able to find those online fairly easily), so it's just a matter of running the slice and seeing what it tells you. If you are concerned about the print times then I'd suggest finding something smaller, like a treasure pile, to start with, and go from there, rather than starting with a larger object. As I mentioned in the other thread my first print on the Photon was a 1/35 scale M2 Browning for a mate to replace a terrible one in a model kit, and that was a single item I know that all the tutorials say to fill the build plate, but if you are concerned about the print time and dangers etc. then just print one or two models at a time until you are comfortable with the settings and how the printer works.
  21. 1 point
    These are a single STL file with mirror. Thanks! I'm still tinkering and learning to use the chitubox. These are the files I want to print first when I set it all up, now to learn how to create the best orientation. I will put the Foo Dogs base down then. As for the others, I used a 45degree angle for all. At first I had them elevated a bit but flat. I rather go for a shorter print time the first time, so I can be around to see if nothing explodes/catches fire/or other disasters.. When I fully trust the machine to do it's job and it works I will probably move it to the basement, hoping it can print at that temperature, it seems RobinH and Jasper_the_2nd have no problems with their printer under those circumstances. One of the reasons I bought that printer, this might sound silly... I'm getting older ( 55+ now) and I've read that if you learn new things your mind will thrive and chances of getting dementia and such are less. So I'm inclined to learn new stuff every now and then too stay sharp. With this I have to learn to operate a new machine, use a new program ( chitubox) and how to handle resin etc.. All in all a lot to learn. And of course, it's Star Trek Science to me, I grew up with the original Star Trek and this is something I never thought I would see in my lifetime. I hope to be able to figure it all out, it's so cool if I can print minis out of a liquid. Also, maybe one day I will try the Z-brush stuff and try to digitally sculpt something which I can print then. But that's for later, when I have it all figured out. Then again, maybe that's out of my league, but we'll see. I love this tech although I'm a non-technical person. And I'm very happy with all of you, giving advice, showing your own work, sharing settings and ideas. It may take a while before something is actually printed ( let alone painted...) but the journey has begun! To boldly go where no Wolf has gone before!
  22. 1 point
    Chitubox seems to crash a lot, maybe because I have more than one model on the grid? How does one solve that?
  23. 1 point
    Auto-support is notorious for not placing supports very well. If you got a successful print, great, but you can get better prints by placing supports manually. Unfortunately it takes practice. I recommend these channels for Chitubox tutorials : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFhA https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmV8aGPeS70mDD4U-U2s9UQ For scaling a model, when you are on the general settings tab (not in placing support mode) there are 4 icons on the left. The third one down (magnifying glass with a cube) is the scale feature. You will want get the scaling finalized before placing supports as the scale feature will remove supports.
  24. 1 point
    Whether there are too many supports are not is really hard to measure. It really depends on the model and how you go about placing the supports. Personally, I go through a model layer by layer and look for the islands that appear as I progress up. Sometimes you get a large cluster of supports, especially with fur and hair. Sometimes the model just doesn't have anything that needs many supports. Sometime you need to place supports just to reinforce or stabilize something. That said, the supports in the screenshot do look pretty thick. Did you use the stock Chitubox settings, or have you tweaked anything? The thicker the connection point, the greater chance a scar will be left on the model. But too small a connection point and the support will fail. Lastly, I have started using an app called Photon File Validator to double check that I've support all islands. It's an extra step in my workflow, but it has helped.
  25. 1 point
    I have absolutely no knowledge to impart regarding the supports, I'm just glad you're going to have fun with your fancy new toy. Looking forward to seeing your journey!
  26. 1 point
    I still have not taken the plunge so good on you.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Today, I split the head from the body, so I could pose the body and increase the resolution on the head. Then I made a very rough base, posed the body, and detailed the head (which is pretty much done at this point).
  29. 1 point
    I agree! And while you're at it, maybe one day....a KS with animals? You know, the realistic ones, the ones lots of us would like? Put out the STL's for those sculpts? Gorgonopsids? Etc... Just give me the word and I would back for a few great prehistorics and/or realistic animals. You know I loved to paint the komodo dragon. Maybe a few alternate poses? I would buy that in an instant.
  30. 1 point
    When I first saw the pictures, I was trying to figure out how you removed the wing panels and replaced them with circuit boards! It's an amazing, meticulous, beautiful paintjob. You should be very proud
  31. 1 point
    Freehanding straight lines? Wow! Excellent work
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Those stone giants look amazing!
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I like that skin texture! Don't know that they need many props, but elaborate glyphs carved on the boulders and into their stony skins might help sell the concept.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks! I don't usually sculpt with this much detail, (ie I'm usually sculpting human sized things) This has been a fun exercise, similar to modelling for 75 or 100mm. I'd say each of these has taken about 20 hours, whereas the human scale stuff is usually 8-10 hours. baby bears - 2 or 3 hours for the first one and maybe 1/2 hour for the second one! I'm working on a giant wolf, and then I'll be done on this set.
  37. 1 point
    Barbaric splendour! I love these sculpts, especially the lady's face and spear and the fighter's curly beard.
  38. 1 point
    Here we are about 15' tall - next step, get some feedback from all of you fine folks and fix all the issues. Thanks!! In the meantime, I'm going to pick another giant to start on, though I was also thinking about doing some polar bear pets... p.s. this is the sort of thing I was imagining the female knight would be up against while sculpting her.
  39. 1 point
    The axe can be attached to his belt with a small hook?
  40. 1 point
    The drunk is really great! I also really like the chest on the right side and the cauldron. Nicely done!
  41. 1 point
    Fantastic! Keep going; you'll have a whole town eventually. One note on making them feel more realistic; vary the width of the boards that make up the wooden objects more. It is especially noticeable in the tops of the barrels. Also the staves of the barrels are very wide, usually barrels are made from many thin boards. I love this set. Well done.
  42. 1 point
    This is the Reaper Bones 77371 Basilisk sculpted by Julie Guthrie. It's quite small - about the size of a large dog, with a wonderfully grouchy visage. I painted it up fairly quickly to illustrate a video about how yellow and black can be mixed to make greens. This was an example of the less vivid greens (For a really vivid yellow-and-black green, see my She-Hulk Show-Off thread). All the colors on the critter were mixed just from yellow (mostly Yellow Ochre, but also a little Hansa Yellow), black, and white. The video is here, if anyone cares to watch it.
  43. 1 point
    Here's a brighter version of the painted fighter, I don't know if this is better or worse than the previous one...
  44. 1 point
    The fighter with the medusa shield would be something I liked to paint one day.
  45. 1 point
    Really nice, but it does make me think of Albert Pujohls getting ready to knock one into the bleachers...
  46. 1 point
    Need a cup-holder on one of those horns! Looks great, especially the face and that fancy hat.
  47. 1 point
    Here we have some beefier hands. I thought a sun symbol was good for a cleric, not sure if anyone has specific preferences.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Hi Shpam - looking at the pics after I posted them, I was thinking the same thing. I will fix them. Thanks for the feedback.
  50. 1 point
    Note that these are the pictures from my phone. I'll be posting up some from my wife's camera tomorrow, but I'm too tired to go through all those tonight. Ever since Stonehaven's Gnomish kickstarter, when they revealed the scout rider, I've had the idea of Gnomes on Wyrmgear (kind of like Temeraire in the Naomi Novak series). And now I finally have it done. The WIP for this project can be found here. C&C appreciated as always, and any suggestions on particular pictures/angles that should be focused on would be appreciated, this is my first multi-figure piece, and the largest by far.
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