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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/02/20 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    Had this mini sitting around for several months and was looking for something I could use as the leader of a group of knights and he fit the bill perfectly.
  2. 9 points
    I like a good pun. I love a bad pun. ...and I can't think of a single one.....
  3. 8 points
  4. 5 points
    Hello everyone, I hope you're having a great Black Friday. Here are pictures of 50287, Cain the Cyber-Troll sculpted by Bobby Jackson. This Chronoscope model was designed by Wayne Reynolds, Winner of the Reaper Con 2011 DYOM (Design Your Own Miniature) Auction. It is also available in Bones Black version under SKU: 49028. I added the katana on its back to be faithful to the concept art illustration and painted it with Reaper MSP paint.
  5. 4 points
    Dipped my toe in with this brand for Spain a year or more ago for these 6 figures. I’ve backed another one since.
  6. 3 points
    Need I say more? No home yet. Done to prove i could for a friend during a hobby day.
  7. 3 points
    Hi guys and gals, So just painted these two, which were pretty simple jobs being they didn't have too many things hanging off of them. These are bugbears sculpted by Tom Meier, back in 1983. I had always thought these were odd kind of figures, because my other concept of bugbears at the time were the Monster Manual version as well as the two Grenadier bugbears that were available at the time. One of my future projects is to paint the Grenadier bugbears as well, plus some more recent Partha bugbears and I think I have somewhere the female bugbear by Reaper that I'd like to paint up. Anyhoos, these guys have these huge eyes that I really didn't know what to do with. I thought of one color and not put in any pupils, but then changed my mind. Hopefully green eyes look okay. Anyhoos, enjoy!
  8. 2 points
    2020 has-been rough on everyone but some people have had it rougher than others. A friend of mine is disabled and has had a really hard time just trying to keep basic necessities done. I thought I would send her a little friend who's got simpler an cuter problems. Purple is her favorite color. He goes out in the mail on Monday Hope you like him too...
  9. 2 points
    The Twilight Knight is from a Hell Dorado Kickstarter from years ago; I wanted to go full Eladrin with her. Vodelis and Jirelle are both Reaper metal figs. The dual-wield Norse is from Red Box Games. The orc Druid is another Chainmail circa 2003. The rest are all Reaper Bones figs except for the Wizkids worg.
  10. 2 points
    Reaper Frost Giant Reaper flaming circle with a Frontline Games floor tile Ral Partha Firbolg courtesy of @chaosscorpion Reaper Purple Worm/Goremaw Galladoria Games skull floor tile
  11. 2 points
    Hello everyone! After seeing @Kangaroorex Grenadier 9601, Black Dragon, I decided it was time for me to salvage mine from the shelf of shame. Thanks for the motivation Kangaroorex. This model was sculpted by William Watt in 1988. Unfortunately, the one I bought some years ago had a few battle scars. It has a broken horn and a broken wing claw. Its main tail stinger and tongue were also broken. As a reference, the base is 75mm wide.
  12. 1 point
    So here's Ettinstone, a tile system that should work with most other 25mm tile systems. It's magnetic, double sided, versatile, and super easy to build with. Also it's roughly about $1.20 per 2x2 tile before shipping at the lowest level, and about $1.00 per tile at the highest level. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1215751272/ettinstone/ The tiles are made in ABS plastic, so it won't break easily either. :) The Gallant Goblin made a video that really shows off how quick it is to assemble, disassemble, and reassemble with this set, as well as showing how well it works with both Warlock and Dwarven Forge tiles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvehn-WzpjU Stretch goals at $18k and $26k for half walls(2x1") and quarter walls(2x0.5", AKA pillars/wall corners).
  13. 1 point
    Another one from the folks at Arcane Wonders that's a 3D print for the upcoming game of Freedom Five. Tachyon:
  14. 1 point
    So for those who celebrate such things, I hope you all had a really nice Thanksgiving as well as a beautiful Black Friday! So I finished these a few days ago, but have kind of been a bit busy for posting. They both have shields, but only one of them I had to worry about putting a "something" on the shield. I didn't know exactly what to put on there, so ended up with a little green face with X'd out eyes. There was still space so painted a little triangle. No great significance, just filling in some space. Being I was painting them too both at the same time and in the effort of saving time I ended up painting their footwear equal colors, hopefully nobody will think the less of me for it. These are two miniatures from Ral Partha, sculpted by Dennis Mize, that were part of their Ral Partha Imports range. Partha originally was distributing some Citadel figures back in the eighties, but I think they either lost the rights to the miniatures or just decided to sculpt their own alternative versions. In any case as a result, there are some Citadel figures that have a Partha version, mostly sculpted back then by Dennis Mize. I was watching too around last week Anne's Twitch channel in which she mentioned she actually does some painting or dry brushing of static grass and I mean to try it one of these days, just haven't quite figured out with it yet if it's just a bit of random dry brushing or if there would be a method to it. It kind makes sense though. I found out years ago that if you used sand or rocks on your bases, it looks a lot better if you painted them as well, as the rocks don't seem to check with the whole miniature and base being painted. So anyhoos, everybody enjoy your long weekend if you happen to have one, don't shop too much, and maintain some social distancing!
  15. 1 point
    So I pestered Anne Foerster on how to use the new Bones Dungeon Dwellers Paint Colors. Here's what her suggestions for use are: 09974 Dungeon Dwellers Monster Colors 09455 TROLL HIDE: This is a fantastic dark olive green with a strong yellow tone to it. It’s great for not only trolls but also lizardmen, jungle foliage and camouflage patterns. 09456 ORC SKIN: Not only good for orcs but for moss, mold, or lichen. Great to highlight grey stone where you want to suggest there might be lichen but it’s too small to paint. Also a nice color for ghoul skin! 09457 GOBLIN SKIN: Complex oranges like this are very useful for highlighting dark brown leather. Can also serve as a nice shadow color for 9459 Ogre Skin, or as a good color for a copper dragon if you’re not using metallics! 09458 KOBOLD SCALE: Great color for darker red dragons, or for demonic skin. For modern basing, it’s a great red brick color, or mix a small amount into skin tones to create weather-reddened skin shadows. 09459 OGRE SKIN: This strong ochre yellow is a good highlighter for 09455 Troll Hide or almost any other darker olive green (mix them 50:50). It can be used as a glaze to make blond hair more yellow, or serve as the base for a non-metallic gold. Great for animal or monster eyes where you are going for a golden color; highlight with a brighter yellow. 09460 GNOLL PELT: Not just for gnolls, this is also a great basing color for field grass, or a modern military/camo color. Good to mix into dark greens if you are highlighting and looking for a more natural effect. Could also be a good sickening cloth color for evil priests or undead! 09975 Dungeon Dwellers Dungeon Colors 09461 VAMPIRIC MIST: A pale grey with an indigo cast, this is a fantastic highlight for light medium and light greys if you want something more interesting than just white. Would also be a good highlight for vampiric skin! 09462 SUCCUBUS KISS: A beautiful vibrant purpley dark red. Use for dark gothic cloth, shading for almost any red you can think of, or blood spatters under moonlight. Seriously, folks, this stuff is awesome. 09463 ELDRITCH PURPLE: Good for cloth or color accents for evil wizards, necromancers, flashier rogues, or for that hot sorceress who thinks that purple is the new black. Great highlight for darker purples. Can also be used to suggest magical shadows for 09461 Vampiric Mist (mix just a little Eldritch Purple into your Mist, then apply for shading). 09464 CURSED GOLD: Fantastic for exactly what its name says; highlight with 09450 Dragon Gold. Also good for the rich gold on Egyptian-themed models, and as a darker, more moody gold for evil minis where you don’t want something really bright. 09465 SKELETON KEY: A good start for any tarnished silver metal or armor; highlight with 09454 Mithril Silver. Also could be good to suggest “magical” steel where you want it to look just a little different. 09466: DUNGEON GREY: A good dark stone color, of course, but also a great highlight for black! Could be used as an alternative for black if you wanted to suggest dark cloth that has faded slightly.
  16. 1 point
    This year has really limited my leisure time, so I have been absent around the forums. I have been unwilling to give up my painting time, though, as it has been keeping me sane. Fortunately I had been working on speed-painting in previous years, and it has served me well of late, allowing me to complete pieces in just a session or two every other week. As a result I have built up a nice backlog of miniatures in my collection that no one has ever seen. I had a free moment today, and the weather was cooperative, so I dusted them off (literally), and snapped some photos. The rockmaws are the fist to be shared! I love having multiple variants of monsters, even more so when there are young. I like a touch of realism in my high fantasy, and it is nice to have miniatures reflect that these creatures have an ecology and lifecycle of sorts (even if completely fantastical).
  17. 1 point
    You only need to pledge $1 to gain access to all the loot. Just one teeny tiny dollar. Then you can stop anytime you like. No pressure.
  18. 1 point
    I never had seen a paint job of the Bathalian Pirate that I liked, so I opted for one I felt like he’d actually wear. The two ropers are both from Reaper but different Bones Kickstarters; I love that they are stylistically so different. The abyssal maw is notably from Chainmail via Wizards of the Coast circa 2003 or so.
  19. 1 point
    The tiefling is the lead singer sorcerer of a band, along with the changeling lead guitarist; Elquin got his staff nipped off and swapped with a lute. The tabaxi rogue and half-elf ranger are their compatriots. The dark elf I painted up to be a recurring villain who’s after something they accidentally got their hands on; I felt like he needed green hair as opposed to the mint green hair of the bard guitarist.
  20. 1 point
    CGTrader is running up to 70% off on some STL models
  21. 1 point
    A couple more:- Durgin Paint Forge - 40% off with code ORANGEFRIDAY. Demented Games - 20% off with code BLACK20.
  22. 1 point
    Kickstarter I backed a while back!
  23. 1 point
    These purple gems and the skin tone of the Firbolg are amazing.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks! Finally made a little progress:- Painted the trim of his coat in Scarlett Red with Polished Gold bits. I also painted his shoe (Pure Black/Stone Grey > Black Wash > Pure Black/Stone Grey) and sock (Off-white/Leather Brown > Brown Wash > Off-white/Leather Brown). Then I painted his gun and mug in Oily Steel with Bronze decorations (plus Bonewhite > Sepia Wash for the dribble of booze). His lion costume is next.
  25. 1 point
    I backed Reaper Bones KS 1-4 and thought for sure that I wouldn't 'need' much from Bones 5 and still ended up dropping $700-800 on this one. Surely, I can resist going hard on Bones 6.
  26. 1 point
    Not a new one, but I'd love to see the tower from the Dragon's Don't Share set come back, don't really care as much about the other minis with it, but I want the ruined tower
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Thanks! I gave it a good Google, but he doesn't really match up with anything (although I doubt he was sculpted with historical accuracy in mind), I think if I use the right colour scheme though it'll sell the idea. Been painting (and taking piccys) just not posting. Pascal got a shirt ( Bonewhite/Iraqi Sand > Sepia Wash > Bonewhite > Bonewhite/Off-white > thinned Sepia Wash with Brassy Brass buttons). He then got a coat. It started with a base of Dark Prussian Blue, shaded with Pure Black/Dark Prussian Blue and highlighted with Ghost Grey/Dark Prussian Blue, and then a thin glaze of Dark Prussian Blue. Still need to do the trim, but I wanted to paint his trousers first. Trousers! (Ghost Grey > Grey Wash > Ghost Grey > Ghost Grey/Off-white with Brassy Brass buttons and Red Leather stitches). Next is either his coat trim or sock/shoe combo. I also took Show-Off pics of the Tin Man.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Fit like? Bonus points for painting a guid Scots rifleman.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks! My brain was still more cold-addled than I thought, all I had left to paint were a couple wires. Not sure why I didn't do them at the same time as everything else:- Wires painted in Sky Blue. Started on the base, but the Stone Grey doesn't want to go over the Black Primer at the moment, so it's taking lots of coats with lots of drying time inbetween. So I started on Pascal De Lyon:- So far, I've done his skin (Rosy Flesh > Flesh Wash > Rosy Flesh > Rosy Flesh/Light Flesh) and his big bushy moustache (Stone Grey > Ghost Grey > Black Wash). Now I need to look up a Napoleonic uniform.
  33. 1 point
    Finally, Nothic minis. I think I played in two separate Lost Mines of Phandelan without a nitric to use as a mini
  34. 1 point
    Progress:- It doesn't look like I've done anything, but the Aqua Turquoise parts got another coat of Aqua Turquoise and then highlights of Aqua Turquoise/Chrome and the Oily Steel parts got the same but in Oily Steel. He then got some Bronze decorations, some Brassy Brass on his axe and Polished Gold on his heart-shaped pocket-watch. Looking at him closer, I'm not sold on his Bronze head, it's hard to make out the details, maybe a more traditional bone colour?
  35. 1 point
    I didn't realise robots could join WOOF. Thanks! So this thread kinda died, but for once there is a reason. Basically, when painting Toto's hat, I got some paint on his face, and this easily fixable mistake triggered a panic attack (stupid brain!). I set him aside for a while, but I still got rather anxious when I tried working on him (and the others). However, I'm pretty determined to get my Oz gang painted up (Not too bothered if the Nautilus crew remain in their box though, I've lost interest in that range), so today I had another try with the easiest of the gang, the Tin-man:- This started as a base of Pure Black/Oily Steel, the axe head and more mechanical parts got a coat of Oily Steel, while his armour plates got some Aqua Turquoise, then it all got some Black Wash. So far so good.
  36. 1 point
    You all can have a bachelors party in my honor. She did have a bachelorette party a few days before (called a solteria). When I showed up for cake after I saw some...questionable things. Keep it clean guys... Damon.
  37. 1 point
    Another nice option would be more of the general dogs, mainly hunting dog types.
  38. 1 point
    https://www.reapermini.com/search/weapons/latest/50025 https://www.reapermini.com/search/weapons/latest/50026 https://www.reapermini.com/search/weapons/latest/14295 and similar weapon packs https://www.reapermini.com/search/weapons would all be great to have in some kind of plastic. Extra weapons are always super useful and there's a decent variety here. Again, making them in a lighter material would be great for practical purposes. I'm not sure whether regular bones or bones black would be the best choice. Regular is cheaper and easier to bend into shape but that might only be relevant for chains and tubing, while guns and swords would benefit more from being made out of a stiffer material. Either way, weapon packs would be appreciated.
  39. 1 point
    https://www.reapermini.com/search/bird/latest/03181 https://www.reapermini.com/search/bird/latest/03797 Both of these would be very nice in light plastic because it'd be easier to put them on stuff. The wings would be easier to attach and cause fewer problems with balance. The vultures would similarily be easier to put onto weaker branches etc.
  40. 1 point
    I'd love to see some more smaller terrain pieces that are more fantasy than scifi/modern. A couple rune stones that could work for a lot of things...even in scifi with some thought. A crossroads direction post, a notice board for adventurers to pull fliers from. A bazaar stand, potentially with a few options for it...or a few separate stands that would have different goods. Traps would be another thing, spikes and sawblades and darts to draw the rogues attention. A few weapon racks would be fun as well.
  41. 1 point
    I had a bit of a hiccup with my computer recently, and since I had to get it fixed anyway, I thought I'd take the opportunity to upgrade its seven or eight year old graphics card. This thing is the result of the first bout of testing of the new card, which has certainly made a huge difference in sculpting performance in Blender — it started out as a cube subdivided and MultiResolutioned to about 6.5 million faces, and the card handled an object of that complexity without blinking. I had no plan or purpose for this when I started modeling it, and that does show a bit. However, it's now a Thing, and I've 3d printed one and painted it. The spearman is an old Essex figure; his spear is marked in 5mm increments.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Made a start on the next two. Going for a cat vs. dog vibe with:- Neko Mei and Mecha Toto. I've done Mei's skin in Elf Flesh. Toto got a tail and head of drybrushed Red Leather/Fire Orange and Red Leather/Fire Orange/Pale Yellow. Plus a Leather Brown nose and Bronze monocle (on the other side).
  44. 1 point
    The clears are "pure pigment" colors. So clear red is just red pigment in a medium, no blue or white or other colors added to it. Clear magenta is pure magenta pigment not mixed with anything else, etc. You can use them to glaze over other colors. They are very good for blending. There's another discussion here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/46251-reaper-clear-paint-colors-like-clear-red-clear-blue-etc/ And here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/73265-reapers-clear-colours/ And:https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/49997-how-clear-are-reapers-clear-paints/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/25886-what-are-clear-brights-used-for/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/89063-clear-colors/ https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/19454-master-series-color-question-clear-colors-paint-or-glazes/
  45. 1 point
    You can do a *lot* with washes. Main advantage is that you get the most results with the least work. I hate work. Basecoat, wash, base color, highlight, is a common method, so start with that. Washes settle in the recesses, so you don't have to paint the shadows yourself. I've also seen washes used as glazes. Since you have experience using watered-down paints, use the washes as you did these paints. How washes are better than watered-down paints is that they prevent "rings" from forming. If you *like* mixing your own paints, you might not depend on washes as much as painters who just want their miniatures painted. Myself, I paint 20+ miniatures at a time, so premade washes save me time. In fact, I also use colored primers followed by a wash, instead of primer, basecoat, wash. I then paint as needed. For your specific washes, start with these. * Brown: Slop and glop over monsters, particularly skeletons. With greenskins, you will eventually want Green Ink. Appearance will look dirty, so I don't use them with heroes. * Black: Use it to shade armor. With textured armor, such as chainmail, after the wash dry brush the chainmail with metal. With "flat" armor, like plate, only shade the gaps between pieces of armor. Also, for heroic miniatures, after a white primer, wash in dark wash, then optionally drybrush in white, then paint basecoats. This will give you your shading without making the miniature look dirty. * Flesh: Personally, I find flesh tricky to use. I would start with flesh on monsters (eg. ogres, flesh-colored ghouls) before moving on to heroes. Once you use up any of the washes, pick up the Army Painter Quickshade Ink set, a set of washes. Colored washes (eg. green, red, blue, purple) work well with their colors for shading. EDIT: To follow-up on ManvsMini (: here're an article on DIY wash and surface tension. Woo! Science! http://www.theeclecticgamer.com/2011/03/16/creating-washes-for-miniature-painting/ EDIT: Also, an article on washes. Woo! Tutorial! (: https://creativetwilight.com/washes/
  46. 1 point
    This one fits on a 50 mm (base is about 45 mm) and could fit a rider:
  47. 1 point
    I'm relatively new to painting and had to put it on the back burner for a while. My KS3 shipment just came in and I figured the Mystic Circle would be the perfect "mini" to jump back in with. I was out of crazy glue and could not assemble it. If your in this situation, sharpies fit inside the stone pillars perfectly. I used craft store black paint to base coat the stone, and inadvertently made a half wash. I'm not happy with how it pooled in some areas, but I'm going to move on an use it as a learning experience. Im planning on using a dremel to carve in runes on the stone. Has anyone used anything else to carve into reaper bone material? Any tips or C&C would be appreciated.
  48. 1 point
    Added in some moss but it sort of looks like ivy I think. I don't think it's enough so I have some more drying today and I'm not sure if I should dry brush it a lighter green, red, orange, brown, or leave it as is.
  49. 1 point
    I painted up the runes and attempted to make them appear to glow. I think the blue and purple came out rather well. The yellow and pink not so much at all. For some reason when painting some of the runes, the blue wash that I painted several layers ago was drawn to the top. I put down a layer of Gale Force 9 autumn flock, hoping it looks like leaf clutter and I mixed green paint with some dried tea leaves. That's drying now and will hopefully work well for moss. After the moss is on, I think the mystic Circle will be finished.
  50. 1 point
    I dremeled a rune in each column. There is 7 columns if you count the complete columns as one each so I found "runes for the seven deadly sins." Move put down a blue wash down followed by three grays layers of dry brushing, an off white dry brushing, and a brown wash. I think it's looking pretty good so far. Im planning on putting/painting moss on the stones, painting the runes the colors representing the seven deadly sins and giving them a glow effect. I would love to put some ivy on the columns but I cannot find any locally or on Amazon. Im leaning on an autumn-ish basing, but I'm not sure. Can you have green moss during the autumn? The side by side shot of the columns is before and after the brown wash.
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