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Fido Montoya

Bones Supporter
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  1. The fact that there are particles isn't the issue, its that the particles are still attached to the figure. You can get a toothbrush and try to brush them away, but they do not come off easily. Also, I have found that you can use the blunt edge of a carving tool (like a small burnisher) to 'smash' the mold lines into the figure with varying degrees of success.
  2. I try to cut as well, but it is impossible to get into small folds and other such area with a blade. These are areas normally suited for files, but files leave all the little fragments stuck to the model. I also found that the chisel works really well for the areas you can access.
  3. Most of mine look great, and some are absolute stunners. As was mentioned before, the mold lines are hell to clean up. The Bones material does not fall away well, and leaves little debris everywhere in the model that you still have to get rid of with effort.
  4. I'm not sure what's out there from the actual wargamer-centric companies out there, but for the giants addon figures and other similar bigger figures I bought some round and square wooden bases from Hobby Lobby. They cost me like 79 cents or something. I think they are made for using as a plaque or something similar.
  5. The first gesso I tried with miniatures (not bones) was Liquitext white gesso. It was a little goopy and did not shrink and tighten like I heard gesso should. I returned that and got a bottle of Bob Ross gray gesso and that worked like a charm on normal plastic and metal minis. The verdict is still out on using it with Bones...
  6. "Have a whole mess of Ral Partha paints, too." Partha Paints! That brings back memories. In the late 70's I was in junior high, collecting lead minis and painting them with Partha Paints. Partha miniatures were my favorite as well. Speaking of those days, does anyone remember Polly S paints? Good times.
  7. I have some gesso that I normally use on miniatures. I applied it to a couple of bones giants, and it didn't go on as well as it does on other metal or hard plastic miniatures. It tended to crack around the edges instead of tightening up. It was an easy fix though with simple green cleaner. Needless to say, it doesn't have the mass to use as a gap filler. It would just crumble away.
  8. I don't have Deathsleet, so I can't help you in this case. My first thought when I read about your problem was to have a strategically place boulder next to one of his hips or tail (pinned or glued to said boulder). I always take the easy and lazy approach. :D
  9. Thanks for all the replies! I've used Magic Sculpt only briefly in the past to make the plain base for the Candy and Cola Super Dungeon Explore metal mini match the stone molded bases that came with the other figs included in the board game. I made a mold from one of the normal bases and used MS to cover the plain base in a thin layer and press against the mold. That's about the extent of my experience with it so far, but I plan to make some rocks from molds with it and glue them to the base as I am forming it in stages.
  10. I picked up some small round wooden bases to use for my Bones Giant guys and gals. Im wanting to use Magic Sculpt to build up the 'ground' a little and form the terrain, meshing with and integrating the broccoli base for simplicity (I plan on painting and completing the figures first, then I'll glue and/or pin the Bones base directly to the wooden base and build up around that). Does anyone have experience with using Magic Sculpt for basing in this manner? I assume the MS will adhere to the base without coming off later. Are you able to super glue things to Magic Sculpt effectively? Any advice or alternative ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance!
  11. Metal washers and superglue for everybody! Step right up!
  12. Here's what I got. Wonder when it will ship. *ponders* Your Selection: Vampire x1 $100 Frost Giants x1 $10 Fire Giants x1 $10 Forces Of Nature x1 $15 Nethyrmaul x1 $25 Kaladrax Reborn x1 $10 Undead Paint Set x1 $18
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